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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • my 96 ranger transmission slips in and out of overdrive.wondering if theres some kind of electronic sensor on transmission that might be the cause of the problem.also the switch on the shifter to shut off the overdrive stopped working.used to just turn off overdrive.now im slippin like crazy
    any suggestions? thanks.
  • What you say isn't logical/ I don't doubt your sincerity. If, in fact, the battery is adequately charged, it shouldn't require a charge to start. Most likely you have a bad cable connection, a bad cable, or a poor ground connection, despite whatever checking has been done.

    Assuming that the battery is in fact poorly charged after the week, you probably have an excessive power draw,probably caused by some accessory being on, or a small light being on (sometimes a relay fails and keeps something on). Try removing the ground wire from the battery, check resistance between battery leads; resistance should be in megohms. It will not be infinite because of clock draw, etc. If resistance is less, find the cause, correct it. One particular place to look, if equipped, is the underhood light. Sometimes the switch fails, the light stays on, the battery discharges.

    I hope that this helps.
  • I have a 2000 ranger and the pass. power door lock sometimes only goes about half way up and of course sometimes works great. Is there an adjustment on this inside the door? What do I need to do to fix this.
  • I have just purchased a 1994 3.0 V-6 auto ford ranger . It runs good but the oil fills up with raw fuel and it bellows white smoke upon acceleration especially during in town stop and go driving.I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and changed the oil the smoking has slowed but only because of the clean oil, the oil is filling up with gas again.This is my 2nd oil change and it will start smoking again Does any one know what the problem could be?Also the top of the regulator has a vacuum line attachment but their was no line.Where is it supposed to go to.If this truck blows I will be in serious trouble as it is my only transpo...I know the gas in the oil is damaging the motor and its killing me. Can someone help!
  • my rear door won't open, the latch at the top won't release (but the bottom latch releases). I'd like to get inside to see what's wrong, but don't know how to get the panel off and I don't want to break anything. thanks
  • I'm not sure about all of your problem, but, per one of the auto repair manuals, the vacuum line to your pressure regulator is simply engine vacuum, i.e. manifold vacuum. There should be a vacuum routing diagram under the hood somewhere; check it out,run a line as shown. If there is no diagram, find the vacuum tap, somewhere on the intake manifold. Trace all of the lines from that point; you should find a disconnected line, or plugged line, or some such. That should be the line to your regulator; hook it up.

    The regulator works by controlling fuel flow back to the tank; in your case, the injectors see all of the pressure that the fuel pump produces. I I don't know how the fuel gets into your oil, but, getting the regulator to working might correct all of the problem.

    Be aware, you might have a bad regulator.
  • Thank you for the advice I will see to it tonight! You believe the new regulator could be defective; huh I would never have figured that . I will take it back and get another,it was very simple to replace.

    Thanks Again,
    Gary
  • The same exact thing started happening to me on Oct 3. I have a 96 ranger, 4-cyl, no air, man trans. I push started it and it would go. Then it started ok for 2 days. Today, I couldn't start it again.

    I have the same exact symptoms - solenoid clicks, nothing else. Battery is fine.
  • dine1dine1 Posts: 1
    I own a 1994 ford ranger x-cab. Whenever the engine warms up and I apply the brakes, the battery guage and oil pressure guage go crazy. When the battery guage reads 0, and I try to use the door locks or power windows, not only do the locks/windows don't work, it somehow turns off my satellite radio that is plugged into the cigarette outlet. I have thought of replacing all of the wires behind the instrument panel, but is this worth it? I forgot to mention that when the battery guage reads 0, both turn signal lights (in the instrument panel) will turn on and stay on. The truck does have close to 200,000 miles on it, so I need advice on whether to try to fix my electrical problems or just give in and give up the truck.
  • Hi... The reply just before yours for my question lists all of the "normal" things that need to be checked. I have done these also, but didn't list them because I thought it obvious and didn't wish a very long post to the group. I assume you have done the same. There is an underhood light and I have removed it so that isn't the problem. The starter has been changed... twice. The battery has also, and the current one is only a few months old. I found a person this past week who had a BMW that did the same thing and was told by a dealer, "that is just the way it is." He now drives a different brand of car.

    The fellow before you in this post thread indicated it might be a relay. I was aware it might be... I was hoping that this was common enough that I didn't have to tear the whole truck wiring harness apart to find it. I guess it isn't, which is good for Ford, but this is an irritating problem.

    I am about to rig up a relay of my own to disconnect the battery via a switch under the dash, with only the clock, radio, and relay circuit energized at all times. It is a bit of a kludge repair, but my sanity is worth it.

    If the switch were well hidden it would also have the added advantage of being a theft deterrent. Sounds like my weekend project... if I can get the truck started to move it to my shop.

    Good luck with your truck.

    Larry
  • If you haven't replaced the regulator yet, be sure that the vacuum control line is in place on the one you have. I agree with you, it's not likely that the new regulator is bad; it IS possible.

    Without the vacuum line in place, the regulator can't work.

    Again, I hope this helps.
  • I have a 97 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual trans and 3.0 engine. When driving my truck, it hesitates to idle down between shifts. I can actually be cruising in 5th gear and just mash the clutch in and the truck still stays at rpm for a little while unless braking and slowing quickly. While sitting in the driveway not moving but reving the engine, it idles down just fine. This led me to the vss. I can unplug the vss and drive the truck and it idles down quickly but then i have no speed odometer. I replaced the vss with no help. The iacv is the same. I unplug it and it idles down quickly while driving so I replaced it also with no help. I also replace the tps with no help. I cleaned the maf also. My brother hooked laptop and diagnostics up and we drove around showing no codes and everything working perfect. It confirmed throttle was not sticking and rpms were slow to go down and even sometimes reving just a little higher before dropping when depressing the clutch. Any help is greatly appreciated. Running out of money buying sensors.
  • paulp1paulp1 Posts: 2
    hello my name is Paul,
    I don't know if oyu have fixed your problem yet, but by the messages i read that people have sent you, prob. not. you more than likely have some bad piston rings, valve stems, or a blown headgasket - any of these would let gas get into your oil, and with a blown headgasket you would have anti-freeze mixing with your fuel and oil.
    hope this helps.
  • paulp1paulp1 Posts: 2
    if it is the 4 door model, 2 regular and 2 suicide doors the 2 back door panels just pop off , after removing bolts securing seatbelt, be careful not to break wires going to speaker in panel. might have to buy some new plastice body/trim rivets.
  • Hi Paul,
    Thanks for the imput, I have improved my situation by replacing the fuel pressure regulator and hooking up the vacuum lines properly.Theirs no water in the fuel, but I think you hit it on the head on all other accounts! It pings and clatters mainly at 55-65 MPH and it blows a puff of white smoke when I start it,and strangly enough as I accelerate the pinging will fade in and out and the smoke corasponds whith the pinging.I saw someone write about an electronic something that retards your timing when it thinks you lack power hmmm wish I knew more about that.As for the fuel in my oil I Think that problem is correected with the repair 's described above
  • I have a 1987 Ranger 2.9 L V-6, rebuilt engine 30k miles ago with the following :
    -New low press fuel pump 25k miles ago
    -New high press fuel pump 10k miles ago
    -New fuel filter 10k miles ago
    -New inertia fuel shutoff switch to try and solve the problem

    PROBLEM:
    -No fuel pressure at the pressure relief valve by the intake
    -Can't hear either of the fuel pumps running
    -No fuel problem came on out of the blue after parking it overnight...turns over, but won't start, no "engine coughing" like it wants to start

    QUESTION:
    1) What might be the problem ?
    2) Is there a way to mount an external fuel pump to bypass both high and low pressure fuel pumps ?
  • Hey i have the same proplem with my 98' and i found this http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/TSB00-3-5.html
    I hope this helps you.
    Brian
  • jsb4jsb4 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Ranger XLT 4X4 with a 4.0L and a 5 spd. manual transmission. Today, I started having problems getting the clutch to disengage. For a while, shifting was difficult, but it worked. However, the problem got worse the more I used the clutch and reached a point where I couldn't shift into a gear at all. I shut the engine off and could get it into first. When I started the engine with the clutch pedal depressed and my foot on the brake, it started fine. Although it was pulling against the brakes, it didn't kill the engine. It felt like I was riding the clutch, even though the pedal was all the way to the floor. I figure there is something wrong with the hydraulic and I'm losing pressure some how.

    Here's where I'm confused. Once I got it into gear and cruised for a while, I could use the clutch again. It was as if the pressure had returned to the line. But after a few moves of the clutch, it was completely ineffective. I'd leave the pedal alone for a minute or two and I could use it again. But again, it was only working through one or two moves.

    It's raining, so I haven't had the guts to remove the clutch fluid reservoir cap for fear of getting water in the system. But I suspect there is some fluid in the system since it was able to get the clutch to work some of the time.

    How do I proceed with diagnosing this problem?
  • I'd suspect hydraulics. Hydraulics can temporarily "rejuvenate" but a bad pressure plate never does. You can't hurt the clutch fluid with a few rain drops.
  • I just bought a '94 Ranger with a 3.0 5-speed. It seems to take a little while to warm up and just gets into the bottom of the range of the normal range on the temp gauge. After replacing the thermostat, I noticed that the radiator fan runs even on cold start. Is this normal or does the radiator fan clutch need to be replaced?

    Thanks.
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