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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • Ive not tried the gem module as i am not familier with this. So far , Ford dealer or anyone else can find my problem at this time.
  • I ahve a 1995 ford ranger with the 4 cylinder engine and have been unable to find an inexpensive code reader to use the ones I have found have excluded the 4 cylinder engine from the list of vehicles covered.
    Any suggestions?
  • Update:

    I would turn the key on in my 1990 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed and listen for a buzzing sound. At the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click noise. Then I would turn the key to the start position and the truck would start no problem. Now the buzzing sound is gone and the truck just rolls over.
    I checked the power to the fuel pump in the tank and it works.
    I looked for another fuel pump on the driver side frame near the door and all I find is a fuel filter.
    If anyone reading this message knows what else to check or knows what the problem is it would be a great help, because from here I have no idea whatsoever.
    This truck is an heir-loom.
    Any advice would be helpful and very much appreciated.
  • gmanxgmanx Posts: 1
    So I'm getting ready to remove my tank to get to the brake line. Were there any tricks to getting the tank off? You said it was just hanging there...
  • My '94 ranger is having the same problem. Did you figure anything out?
  • Starts randomly. The battery, starter, relay, and clutch switch have all been replaced. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • Yes, there are tricks to it; I learned the hard way:

    *You may need to take the drive shaft off.

    1. Get the tank as empty as you can.
    2. Disconnect the tank nozzle from the body where the fuel is pumped into the vehicle; usually 3 to 4 bolts or screws.
    3. If you have a transmission jack, use it to support the tank while you work around it.

    *If you have the equipment

    4. Spray the bolts with break-away or similar, wd-40 will take longer but it will work.
    5. Use a breaker-bar to break the bolts lose starting with the bolt at the end of the tank; After breaking lose, use an impact wrench to reduce time spent.

    *This is when you will want the tranny-jack under the tank

    6. On the side opposite the bolts, you will need to lift the tank support bars abt 3 inches and push them towards the drive shaft. This will release them from the frame. (Do Not Bend, They WILL Break!!!)
    7. Using the jack, lower the tank just enough to be able to work at the top of the the tank.
    8. At this point, unplug only the electrical connections at the tank.
    9. The nozzle has a hose clamp at the tank, use a screwdriver or the appropriate size socket. Take the hose off the tank.
    10. Seperate the fuel return hose from the tank and cover the tank fuel return fitting.
    11. Lower the tank until just before the intake lines are kinked. The plastic tips have plastic securement clips through them, use a screwdriver at the clip-lips to take the clips out of the line tips, which seperate from the tank.
    12. Slowly lower the tank from the vehicle and cover the tank neck ASAP.
    13. Lower the jack and set the tank off to the side.

    You can see where I ran into slight problems. Remember, I am working on a Reg-Cab 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl. 5-Speed. You may have a little different set-up.
    To the more experienced, if I am a little off in my advice tips; please, by all means, correct me.
  • Where exactly is the clutch switch and the relay?

    These two items, along with the solenoid, coil, distributor, plugs, and wires, are the next things on my checklist.

    Is the relay and the solenoid the same thing?
  • There's a circuit breaker box under the hood by one of the fenders. You also might consider checking for shorts, bad connections, and disconnections.
  • My brother just encountered the exact same problem.

    behind the 4x4 switch, reach up in there and plug it back in at the back of the switch.
  • today i hooked up the scanner and checked the (gem) module and it had about 7 codes, at least 4 were false codes, i cleared the codes and my truck drove fine for a little then by the time i got home it was back to the high idle between gears. so i think its going to be a bad module i will check it on the scanner again on monday.
  • owreowre Posts: 1
    I was replacing a windsheild in my ranger. I had a tarp over the truck and the wind blew it off of course it rained hard that night. Now nothing besides the power door locks work i turn the key to on and i have nothing no four way flashers ,blinkers,wiper,dummy lights,radio. The only thing that works is the door locks and headlights. I checked all the fuses but i dont think i have any power to the fuse box. please send any ideas to possibly fix the problem, thank you.
  • It's obvious the problem is in the wiring and connections.
    First you want to make sure there is power to the fuse box. Use a pos/neg test light to do this.
    Remove an accessory fuse such as the sterio or the dome light.
    Plug in the two prongs into the fuse slot.
    If it lights up, then there's power.

    If theres not, try a slot that you know works. If it doesn't light up, replace the test light then continue the job.
    Check all lights that work automatically to see if it comes on. (engine cavity light, any and all dome lights, any light that comes on when you simply open something)
    Now check the indicator lights on the dash
    Turn the key on and see if the lights on the dash come on. some lights may just flash. this is normal.
    check all the wires and their connections around the dash, fuse box, ignition switch, etc.
    The majority of the lights that have no power are controlled at the steering column. There may be excess water in the steering column and just needs to be taken apart and allowed to dry before checking anything.
    It's obvious that I'm not a mechanic. I just do a process of elimination using common sense when it comes to troubleshooting anything. Now, I'm having a problem getting my 90 Ford Ranger to start. and today we planned a family day so I'm not able to do much on it today.
    I would turn the key on and listen for a buzzing sound and at the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click from the solenoid. the truck would start fine.
    Now the click is still there but the buzzing sound is gone, and the truck just rolls over.
  • I have a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 Liter V6. The spark plug leads are held in position using several types of fasteners. I can't figure out how to open these devices. Can anyone be of assistance?
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  • My Ranger is running but not well. It will start. I have to pretty much gas it to get it to go anywhere. When I shift into 2nd or 3rd gear I have to hit the gas to get it up hill or down the road. Even in 1st gear it shakes. As it gets warmer it gets worse. I was told I needed a tune-up. Got it and it didn't fix it. Next thing was a timing belt but I've spoken to many people who are Mr. Fix-its and they all say it can not be the timing belt. It shakes in every gear. Any ideas. Replaced transmission about 3 years ago also.
  • The Mr. Fix-Its are right...Its not the timing. If it shakes like what you are describing, chances are its from the vehicle being "rough-driven".

    My brother says, "either check the exhaust system for major holes or run straight pipes for the exhaust system because it might be that there's too much "back-pressure", or not enough compression, in the engine."

    Whats the idle speed?
    Does it shake sitting in neutral, or when you put it into 1st gear, or when you let out on the clutch?
    Have you gone mud-bogging or rough-terrain trail riding in it?

    We still need the answers to the questions here, however here's a list of things for you to check:

    Do any or all of the tires look like it's leaning?
    Are the motor mounts in good condition and secure to both the cross-member and the engine?
    Is the bell-housing tightly secure to the rear of the engine?
    Is the drive shaft off-set at either end and free of any bends, dents, scrapes, and scratches?
    Does the differencial look shifted or damaged in any way?
    Do the shocks/struts/springs both coil and leaf look weak, broken, or missing?

    If anything looks abnormal and has any evidence of any outside force damage, and you do not go trail riding at all, and if you allow others to drive the vehicle; Anticipate them to go trail riding or street dragging in your vehicle. If you do not allow others to drive your vehicle, consider checking with those in the home who are old enough to know how to drive whether they're old enough to have a license or not, and keep the key locked up once you have the problem solved. My cousin was 13 yrs old and taking his dads chevy impala for late nights rides. He was street racing for money. He got the experience from driving farm and lawn tractors and finally when he was confident enough of himself to drive what I call "Road-Legal" vehicle. this is when the car began the late-night excursions.
    So if they're at that age to leave after you go to sleep or even to be "Hot-Rodding It" consider it happenning to your truck.
  • Thanks for the response. Get this. This truck has been giving me the same problem since it 1st happened back in late July/early August. When it 1st happened I drove it home and then maybe once or twice more by mechanics trying to figure out what's wrong. Yesterday was the 1st time I had driven it in a long time. Same problem to and from work. Well, this morning I decided to take it to work again. I start it up and same problem. Pull out of my neighborhood , down the street same problem. As I'm going up a hill on an overpass all of a sudden it's riding like normal. No shaking, no gassing it to get anywhere just like nothing has happened. Crazy!!! I'm not getting my hopes up though. I'll drive it through the week and see if it reverts back to not running well.
    To answer your questions about the rough riding/mudding. Never been mudding. No rough driving at all. No off road stuff and my daughters are ages 6 & 3 so the chances of them driving my truck after hours let alone getting out of their bed is 0%. So what would cause it to all of a sudden ride normal?? Does that sound liek an exhaust thing?? I'll listen out for any weird noises and I didn't hear anything like a pop or anything that happened when it started back to running well. ANy ideas???
  • gmhellmangmhellman Posts: 121
    I had a 1990 Ranger with the v-6 and the manual. I had the same problem and eventually found it to be some bad gas. I noticed that it went away after the tank was almost completely empty. I filled the tank at a different gas station and added a bottle of isopropyl alcohol (HEET). The truck smoothed right out and it ran much better up until the day that I got rid of it. Ironically a few days later I drove by the first gas station and the pumps were closed and they were digging up the tanks and pumps. I stopped and asked the attendant what was going on and she said that somebody had complained to the state inspector and he had visited them and found an unacceptable and atrocious amount of water and dirt in their tanks. The tank that held the 87 octane had a small crack along the top edge and was allowing dirt and rain water to run into it. Did you fill up your tank between the bad and good driving? Other than that the only other thing I could think of is maybe a cracked distributor cap. I had that happen on a 1990 Dodge Shadow and when the moisture was out the car was difficult to start and ran very poorly. Good Luck
  • jefferygjefferyg Posts: 418
    You might also want to consider a new set of plug wires. I had a 99 F-150 with a 4.2L V6 that had a similar problem, but not as severe as you describe. They eventually traced the problem to one faulty plug wire. One misfiring cylinder on a 4 or 6 cylinder engine can really cause the shakes.
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