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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • liman1liman1 Posts: 7
    I have the Ford accessory rubber mats in my Ranger. The ones with the big raised treads in them to hold water. Anyway, yesterday I held them up to the light and sure enough there was a leak in them where the raised tread is bonded to the mat. So that was the problem. This was not obvious without examining the mats very carefully and holding them up to a light. I believe this was a manufacturing error.

    Went to Autozone and picked up a 1.99 mat to stick on top of the leaky mat to fix the problem for the time. I paid around $60 for those Ford mats, I might call Ford and try to get a replacement for free. Thanks all for your help.
  • frohrsfrohrs Posts: 17
    I have a 1995 Ranger 2.3. The ABS light has just come on, it never came on before. I shut the truck off and restarted it the ABS light lit up and than went off like normal but came on again and now won't go off. (2 wheel drive)

    Sensor problem??

    Thanks for any help!

    FR
  • The hood on my 1993 ford ranger catches but does not close down all the way. Is there an easy fix?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The first thing to check is the level of fluid in the master cylinder.

    On my 94, with 2 wheel ABS, when the fluid got low, just from the normal wear on the pads, the ABS light came on. Mine only came on when the brake was pressed, it did not stay on all the time.

    If yours is on all the time, you might have another problem.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    There might be an adjustment on the lock. Or you might add some shims somewhere.

    Has it been hit in the front?
  • frohrsfrohrs Posts: 17
    Thanks I will do. The ABS light does not stay on all the time, however the last time it went on so did the emergency brake light. I'm going to put new drums & shoes on the rear along with a new emergency brake cable that just snapped the another day.

    Think this could be the cause?? (still going to check the fluid level)

    Thanks for your response!

    frohrs
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Fluid is low in the master cylinder.

    If you add fluid, you will need to suck some out when you replace pads/shoes because the new, thinker brakes will push fluid back thru the system and overflow the master cylinder. A turkey baster is cheep, and works well for this. DON'T USE IT FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN BRAKE FLUID!
  • I have a 2001 with the same problem. For now, I have removed the shifting motor on the transfer case. Be sure you tape the electrical connector up good so it doesn't get water/mud in it while driving. I recently replaced the 4x4 control module. The new one started continually trying to shift; I could hear the relay going in and out, so I've disconnected it until I find the problem. The shifting motor ohms out at 57 ohms and I'm thinking that sounds about right (can't find that spec in the ford shop manuals I purchased). I do know now that the old control module was simply worn out from trying to shift (I remember hearing it clicking but didn't know what it was at the time). I'm going to try to figure out if the motor is bound up so it can't move. I'll keep you posted.
  • I have a 93 ranger xlt 4.0 the electronic 4x4 wont engage. I can't find any info in my chiltons about troubleshooting this problem. I need to know if it's the electronic transfercase motor, or the button, or maybe it's just stuck? I can,t recall the last time i did any maintainance on the driveline. any help ?
  • I have a 98 Ranger Extended 4x4, 4.0. Auto Trans which I have a thump or clunk noise when I start out and I can get it to do it when accelerate. I read in some other post of similar problems but didn't mention a noise when accelerating. I also can see the rear springs moving and the rear axle housing. Could this be the driveshaft or rear springs?
    Thanks for any help
  • I just bought a 1997 Ranger, 4 cyl, manual trans. with 69,000 miles. The truck runs fine, but I wanted to do some routine maintenance to establish a baseline. While changing the plugs, I found that plug #4 on the exhaust side (left side, closest to the fire wall) would not come out. I can get a half a turn or so on the socket, then it sticks. I tried turning it back in, working it back and forth etc. I am afraid if I over-torque it, the plug may break. Then, I'll have real problems. Any ideas? Thank you.
  • I gave up waiting for a response so I just replaced the electronic transfercase motor $60 used. 4 bolts all 10 mm & one wire nut (there's one wire that had to be spliced) took maybe 20 minutes. works great !!
  • Hi,

    I hope someone can help. My 2000 Ford Ranger keeps blowing the 15amp reverse lamps fuse. It is fine when I move the automatic transmission shifter into or out of park or reverse. However, when I put in drive, the reverse lamp fuse blows. I had read about the wire in the steering column, so I removed the cover and realized I have no clue what I am looking for. Am I barking up the wrong tree, should I not be barking...I basically need help!

    Thanks,
    John
  • I got my spark plug out by using PB anti-seize lubricant.
  • HELP. this is my 3rd ford ranger, this one only has 30,000 on it
    I park on a hill so e-brake is nessessary, however, in all 3 trucks, it occationally sticks on, reverse up the hill sometimes works to brake it loose.It is not the cables,I can move them in and out
  • hi my name is zeb and i have a 1993 ford ranger 3.0L V6 5 speed and my check engine light goes on at high speeds and goes off when i slow down and right now im towing a trailer from texas to richmond VA
    so please help me out
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    For some reason Rangers are known for their rear drum brakes rusting up very fast in damp weather. Very fast meaning overnight.

    The usual complaint is the brakes 'grabbing' very bad for the first few stops after setting overnight in damp weather. I just 'rode my brakes' for a 100 yards a little bit, and this would pull the rust off, and not jerk my head off when I stopped at the end of the block.

    But, freezing up the parking brake - I don't know what to tell you.

    Some people reduced the grabbing by putting on new brakes and/or drums. Some people, this didn't help.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You've got to have the codes pulled for the check engine light to have any idea what the problem is.

    Many parts houses will do this for free - Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.

    One thing - 3L engine is known to ping a lot. Loading the truck pulling a trailer may be making this worse, and may be setting a check light.

    Fill up with premium, which is about the only thing that can be done to help the 3L V6 ping problem. This might be worth a try.
  • i have a91 ranger,5 speed manual trans that decided one day it didn't want to start.i replaced the starter&sylenoid,and theignition relay mounted to the firewall.the battery is good but all it will do is click.any guesses?
  • wrw712wrw712 Posts: 1
    Ok I couldn't find in the search so here goes, maybe one of you guys can figure this out. I'll number them so its easier to answer.

    1.)I have a 1988 Ranger, 4x4, Fuel injected that has a problem starting, once you get it started it dies usually when you have been driving for a bit above 2k RPM on the tach, as you take your foot off the gas once the tach goes down to 1k it dies the battery light comes and the truck dies. Now I throw it in neutral and I go to start it, I usually if not always hear a loud winding noise. I let go and I have to let the winding noise stop before I can try to crank it again or it will just make the noise. If I time it and hit the gas during the mid sound of the wind it kicks over and starts granted theres a plume of white/grey smoke that comes out on times when its really hard to start, I assume I just flooded it with being Fuel injected. This winding noise is heard when ever the engine is started, I assume its the starter or something in close relation. The truck is already missing I know that much, but how can I fix this starting and dying problem?

    2.)Seperate issue perhaps, my dad was fooling with it before he had to left for business and he said something about a part under the hood and to check if it would start at all I had to take a wooden handled screw driver and see if a spark jumps. Its located on the left wheel well. I am not to sure since mom was translating from a note, and I am sure some info got lost in translation. I am assuming he was referring to an ignition or some coil? He said when the truck was giving him fits he would mess with the wires on that part and it would attempt to start again.

    I am really not up to par with engines, its like a test in school, so much stuff in the inner workings just makes my mind buzz I get nervous. I need help and I would be very grateful.
  • bestpibestpi Posts: 5
    try checking if your battery is too tall i had this problem with a tall battery and when i went to a short one it closed all the way
  • wjw7wjw7 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on a 93. I replaced the positive battery cable and it started fine.The old cable was clean and looked good, but it was the problem.
  • I am working on Title Transmission which came off a 1994 Ranger XLT. This is not the first Standard Transmission I have disassembled but it is the first transmission I can not find an exploded view of the internal parts. I have most of it disassembled but I can not find how to remove the Input Shaft or remove the components off the Output Shaft. I there anywhere I can go to get an exploded view?? None of the motor manuals I have seen have one. Need some help here.
  • frohrsfrohrs Posts: 17
    I have a 95 Ranger 2 WD 2300 that has the original clutch. Sadly to say it's going out. I'm going to pick up a new pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch disk and inspect the flywheel to see if it needs resurfaced! Anyone know how hard this tranny is to pull out and do the replacement?? I also have the clutch alignment tool.

    Thanks for any feed back.

    frohrs
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I understand bleeding the hydrolic clutch is a pain.

    I think you should also replace the hydrolic slave cylinder while you are in there.
  • Yesterday I had to put a new timing belt on my Ranger because it was not running right.

    It is a 1999 Ranger ( 4CYL ) with 85,000 miles on it I would like to know what ALL I have to do with it to bring it up to TIP TOP SHARP? Today I am putting Plugs and Wires on it along with a new fuel filter.

    I need all the help that you can gave me to have it like a NEW FORD RANGER.

    When I mean everything that is right from the biggest thing down to the smallest thing that needs to be done .

    I would like to know also who makes the VERY BEST AIR CLEANER?

    Does the TORNADO really work? You hear all about it how you get 1 to 2 gallons per mile with it.
  • I took my 1999 Ford Ranger (4 CYL.) into FORD the other day for it did not run right, the timing belt was bad and they changed the Plugs and wires on it.

    It still is not running right, so they are changed the Air Sensor. They believe that my K & N Air Filter left a piece of dirt into the Air Sensor and caused it to go bad.

    They believe that the New Air Sensor will make it run like a New Engine once again.

    Has anyone had this problem?

    Could it be because it was in a accident before I brought it, that is all I know about it. But I found out that it had a Stainless Steel Exhaust system on it when it was NEW. But when I got it no longer had it on. So could the dirt got into the Air Sensor than and when I brought it 4 years ago? I never noticed it run bad until this Winter. Yes it has 85,000 miles on it.

    My question is : The K & N Air Filter a bad filter?

    Ford thinks they are, and feels that the K & N Filter was the cause of the Air Sensor to go bad. They feel that the paper filter is the best, and that it would not have let the dirt go through it, and caused the Air Sensor to go bad.

    __________________
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    K&N is not a bad filter. It's just that many think that some oil is good and more oil is better when oiling it after a cleaning. Most of the problems are cause by excess oil.

    That said I've removed the K&N filters out of all my vehicles as they have shown no sign of improving over stock.
  • tig3tig3 Posts: 1
    K&N is a fussier filter. I used to run them on carburetter engines. It's more likely that the sensor was contaminated with K&N oil. That causes it to give a false reading. I read that aerosol solvents can be used to attempt to correct this. I think liquid ether (quick start) was suggested. Be careful with ether, it's highly flammable and not particularly good for the piston rings if over used. IMO
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Use Ford factory replacement parts as much as possible, wires, plugs (it has wires), air and oil filters. All after market parts are substandard from a factory specs perspective and long term, will not outperform the factory parts. But other than a good fuel rail flush, that's all you should need to do.
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