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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • vft32vft32 Posts: 4
    My daughter was having a noise in her engine which I diagnosed (correctly I might add) as the tensioner pulley. I had her take it to the Ford Dealer in Las Vegas. The Ranger is a 98 XLT 3.0 V6 Auto 4x4 with less than 75,000 miles on it. They charged $175 for labor and $143 for the part. I was wondering how close that is to "reality"? Her being 450 miles away I wasn't able to change it my self as I've done on my older F150's. They also told her the spark plugs needed changing and a tuneup was needed, the truck runs fine except for the pulley squeal. They wanted another $400 for that! The manual says the plugs are good to 96,000 miles and the Ford Dealer that did the major service on it last July said it in no way need a tuneup at that time 72,000 miles and should be good to 100,000 miles. I had her refuse the tuneup but let them do the 3 month L-O-F and change the Licence plate light bulbs. They weren't happy but did they fix the tensioner pulley issue. What is with these dealerships now? I had to take my Mountaineer the Ford Delear in Carson City and they wanted to do all kinds of things over and above the warrenty work needed (about $700), which I only paid had to pay them a $50 deductable. :confuse:
  • lou47lou47 Posts: 1
    All of the sudden my electric windows and speedometer and dome light dont work.Is there one relay that controls all.The 10 and 20 amp fuse are fine?Thanks Lou
  • Is the ign. module numbered as the engine firing order or as a distributor?
  • My 2006 Ranger's check engine light came on and I had the codes checked. The reading said that I had a missfire on each of the four cylinders. The only sign of a miss is on the highway at higher speeds. The check engine light will flash and the truck will bog down. It will stay that way for a little bit and then the miss stops and the truck runs good again and the light goes back to steady.
    I replaced the coil pack and all the plugs and wires.
    Does anyone have an idea of what this might be?
  • I just changed the thermostat and coolant because the temp. wouldn't come up. Now it's worse. No heat at all and the temp. gauge barely moves. What do you think?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    -What thermostat did you put in it? A 160 isn't going to generate much heat, you need the stock 195.

    -A defective new thermostat, stuck open.

    -A clogged up heater core, or if the system has one of those vacumn operated valves in the heater water line that is frozen closed - this would cause no heat. But, the temperature guage should show heat.
  • coolant mix: 50-50? but the mix is probably not the problem. after it warms up, when you feel the "in" heater hose and the "out" heater hose, are the both hot or really warm? if both hot, maybe your cabin air diverter system is screwed-up. however, if the "in" hose is hot and the "out" hose is not, then like bolivar says, blocked heater core or a stuck open/close valve. if, on the other hand, neither hose is hot, then perhaps there is a blockage farther down the line. a simple test for the heater core:set the heater to full heat, take both heater hoses off. then rig up a garden hose to force water into/out of the core.it does not have to be a water tight seal..if the water flows freely, it ain't blocked and you do not have a valve problem. If the water does not flow freely, put the garden hose on the other side of the core (if you had it on the "in" side, put it on the "out" side) you also state your temp gauge barely moves: if your 89 is like my 91, the sensor wire for your temp gauge connects very near the thermostat housing; it is a single wire with a connector with a push/pull connector to the stud. next time the truck warms up, you may want to pull the connector off to see if you notice a difference in the temp gauge reading--could be a bad sensor or bad gauge (not likely). and while you have it off, clean up the stud and connector , maybe you have a bad connection. please take my advice with the caution that I do not have any professional training,just basing my suggestions on years of tinkering.
  • Thanks for the suggestions, however the problem has been fixed by replacing the thermostat with ANOTHER new one. Again, thanks for the help.
  • I have the same problem windshield wipers, speedometer, odometer, dome light al dont work. tried a new wiper motor and thats not the problem, also tried a multi function switch on the steering wheel and thats not the probleb, all fuses are good, Did you ever figure out what the problem is?
  • I don't know a whole lot about technical terms, so please bare with me. I had an accident 2 years ago and after that I had problems with my truck not wanting to start, it was feeling sluggish and it died on me twice. I thought it was my fuel pump but I was wrong. On my passanger side, under the floor mats (you have to pull it down from the right corner by the wheel), there was my inertia plug which came loose. Once I plugged that in everything went back to normal. Hope that helps you out and anyone else that might be experiencing that problem.
  • Used the pully and it won't budge. Any reason why it won't budge? Any info would be helpful.
  • I have a 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 and when I have it in 4 wheel drive the fron end pops really hard like I am hitting a big pot hole. Before it pops it feels like pressure builds up and the front end gets tight. Has anyone had this problem and if they have what was the problem.
  • hey my names john and I have a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 with the same rough idling problem you're talking about here, if you ever found out what the issue was i'd love to know. thanks J_hall17@live.com
  • take a look a the IDLE AIR CONTROL SENSOR , a new one should solve your problem its looks like a servo on the air intake
  • i have 1987 ford ranger with a 2.0 4 cylinder with a 5sp tranny in it and i have had recent problems with it and now when i insert the key into the ignition it will not do anything but turn the lights on in the dash and the windshield wipers and everything will work but when i turn the key to start it doesnt make a sound or turn over could anyone help me out with this problem
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    could be several things causing your problem check your battery bable on the battery and starter make sure they are making good contact, check the clutch safty switch, check your ignition switch and check your starter.
  • bigtom40bigtom40 Posts: 1
    Allright heres the deal.Sunday I jumped in the truck afer not driving it friday.goes in 1st,2nd fine went to put it in third its like the shifter was going to hit the passenger door.After the initial shock played with it.It 'll still go in 3 ,4,and5th even reverse.what gives I pulled the boot cover off It seems like its just the shifter.If thats possible did'nt notice really anything loose,cracked,etc.Oh yeah you can also turn the shifter where it will hit the dash. Thanks any help is greatly appreciated BigTommy40
  • skater1skater1 Posts: 1
    I would like to disconnect the airbag on my 03 Ranger. Is it possible?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Just take it out.

    Why?
  • I have a 95 ranger, 2.3 I was driving down the road and it just all the sudden, Nothin! pulled over tried to start it back up and it just doesn't want to start is this a fuel problem or could it be a sensor
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    One usualy problem with this age of Rangers is the fuel pump relay. It is in or beside the fuse box under the hood. There usually is 2 or 3 identical relays in there so you can switch them around.

    Of course, if it is the relay you should NOT be able to hear the fuel pump work when you first turn the car ON, before you start it. If you hear the fuel pump run, it isn't the relay.

    There is also a 'rollover' switch under the end of the carpet, passenger footwell, to the left, on the tunnel actually. These probably hasn't been triggered unless you hit something or hit a big bump. There is a reset button on it. But the wires plugged in here may be loose. But also, if you hear the fuel pump, there is nothing wrong with this either.
  • wordenworden Posts: 5
    edited April 2010
    The temp gauge doesn't move from "C". Is it a bad sensor or bad thermostat. Where is the sensor located?
  • I have a 91 ranger, 6 cyl, 4.0L: the "sender unit" which connects to the temp gauge on my instrument panel is located close to the thermostat; it has a single wire running to it with a press-on type fitting which attaches (press-on, pull off) to the stud atop the sender unit itself. Thru Ford parts at the dealership, it is a $20 item to replace the sender unit. if you have problems locating it, reply to this message with your email address attached and I will snap a picture of mine under the hood and send it to you. I don't think i can attach an image in this forum, can I?
  • wordenworden Posts: 5
    Thank you so much for your answer. I knew there would be someone out there with info. A picture would be worth 1,000 words. My email mworden322@yahoo.com
    If my son can't fix it, at least I know what I'm talking about when I go to the auto shop. Thanks again.
  • wordenworden Posts: 5
    Does anyone know where to buy the "sender unit" that fits just above the thermostat and sends message to dashboard gauge? What is the name of the part? Need it because temperature gauge stays on "C", doesn't move at all.
  • By this message, I assume you were able to locate the sender unit under your hood. If so, when i called the Ford dealership, parts' department, the partsman knew exactly what I needed and he called it the "sender unit". So if you call your local Ford dealership, they will be able to assist you. OR you can try an independent parts store BUT you may get a "universal" part instead of a Ford part and for $20, I say get the Ford part.
  • wordenworden Posts: 5
    I found a picture of the engine in my chilton manual and it shows it clearly. Will call Ford dealership on Monday. Thank you so much for your help.
  • kls4kls4 Posts: 1
    Check the wire coming from the relay (remove the fuse box under the hood to see the wires). My truck has a black wire with a yellow stripe and the wire was corroded and broken off underneath.
  • follow-up to my previous answer: I finally got around to buying a new "temperature sender unit". My local Schucks/OReilly auto parts store could not figure out the proper part number so I was forced to go to Ford for the part. $20. Motorcraft SW-2328; F1SZ-10884-A, "Temp Sender". After I installed the part (easy: cold engine, drain some coolant, take the old unit out, put the new one in, replace the coolant), I stopped by the Schucks/OReilly with the part numbers from the the Motorcraft unit. They found it. Sells for $5. Borg-Warner part.
  • wordenworden Posts: 5
    I didn't have anyone to install it, so went to Ford dealership. $23.00 for part, $65.00 to put it in.
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