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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • mharnischmharnisch Posts: 11
    My 1999 Ford Ranger with 3.0 flex fuel engine has 4 wheel ABS with drums in the back. I want to flush out the system and replace the brake fluid. The technical manual says that a couple special tools are needed in order to bleed the ABS system so that air does not become trapped. Does anyone have experience with this, and know where I can get the special tools?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If you keep the master cylinder from running empty and pulling air into the system, you will not get air into the ABS system. Unless you let a lot of air into one of the wheel cylinders.

    If you do get air into the ABS system, you cannot 'manually' bleed it out. The 'special tools' are electronic equipment that will fire up the ABS pump to purge the air out. Not sure of the cost, but probably expensive. I recommend it you get air in the ABS, you take it to a good brake shop.
  • My 99 ranger 3.0 L Flex Fuel has all the sudden been hit with several problems. At one point in time I was on the way to Pennsylvania and I had a catostrophic failure. Oil pump went out going 70 MPH on the highway and the engine seized and was finished. Had a used engine from a '00 ranger put in to replace it and it ran fine. Now it has started shaking when I drive it. No engine light is on and there is no smoke and seemingly no effect on RPM when this is occuring. It just starts shaking really hard when I am accelerating around 55 MPH, and now it has started doing the same thing when I idle. If you keep holding the gas pedal down it continues to shake, but if you let off then press back down it usually will stop doing it for a while. Replaced spark plugs and had a fuel flow test and other diagnostics done at NAPA and they said everything was flowing fine. Can someone please give me an idea? I am in college and I can't afford to keep going back and forth paying 70 bucks a pop just for them to look at it.
  • Other problem I have, Drivers side window had been acting up for a long time. Well the receptionist at the shop forgot to write down on the slip for them not to open it. Now it is stuck completely down. The window always goes down perfectly fine like nothing is wrong, but then it wont come back up. Sometimes if you wait anywhere from an hour to a couple of days, it will come up like there was no problem. Again I am limited because I am so young and the university takes a lot of my money, anyone know what part could be causing the problem?
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    try doing a complete tune up, i have changed a few engines and every time i did i had problems so when i have an engine changed thats the first thing i do to avoid having problems is a complese tune up. hope this helps!
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    When it shakes, does it sound like it's misfiring or not getting the air/fuel it wants? If yes, you may want to have a compression test done to make sure everything's firing... one cylinder off-kilter can cause such behavior.

    If it's shaking but otherwise sounds normal, you may want to check the motor mounts... may have been compromised during the swap.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • have a 1996 Ranger, 2.3L 4 cyl. when I take off, it feels real sluggish, and has little power. Once I am going, it is fine. I had it hooked up to a computer it said bad shift selinoid i had it replaced and no change the tranny shop said there was nothing wrong with the unit that the problem is elec and i dont now where to start can anyone help
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    you said sluggish, in what sence? bogging down or trans. taking to long to shift?
    if it's taking to long to shift that could be a problem in timing or exaust clogging up exaust could also cause a loss of power making it take to long to gain speed.
    the best way to check exaust is put your hand over the tail pipe with it running to see how much exaust is comming out, if it doesn't have much comming out there are 2 things it could be, flange pipe or catylitic converter. or timing belt might be off just 1 tooth. that would also cause your problem
  • Is it difficult to replace the carrier bearing in a 97 XLT if it has been done before? The carrier bearing only seems to last 20k-30k before it goes. I've had garages do this before. I'm trying to cut down on the cost to replace it
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    all you need to do is pull the drive shaft get the new bearing and take the section with the carrier bearing to a machine shop have them to press the new one on and reinstall it. carrier bearings are pressed on the shaft. they are hard to remove yourself using a hammer you can damage your drive shaft.
  • I am having the same problem with my dad's Ranger. I have replaced the heads, new gskts, new coil, new plugs and wires, new injectors and checked voltage at injector harness, new computer, new cam position sensor and syncronizer, new crank sensor, have not found vacum leaks, new air cleaner and fuel filter. Pulled y-pipe and cat converter. Looked inside and blew air through them and they did not seem restricted, compression is over 152 psi on all cylinders, and valvetrain seemed to work fine when I watched it with the valve covers removed. I am exausted. I do not know what else to do. Did you ever identify the problem?
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    you might check the coil pack, one of my friends had the same problem he had a bad coil pack. hope this helps
  • bc2005rlbc2005rl Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD V6 3.0 extended cab with 92000 miles on it. The other day my ABS, O/D, and check engine light came on, and my speedometer and odometer stopped working. In addition, the transmission would take a long time to shift out of first. But, when it did shift, it was very hard. So I log onto the internet and researched the issue. All of the information that I saw pointed to the ABS Speed Sensor that mounts on the top of the rear differential. I replaced the sensor and all of the light went out. I thought I was in business, but all was not well. Since replacing the sensor, the odometer started working, but the speedometer is not working and the transmission is still shifting hard from 1st to 2nd, if it shifts at all. Can someone help?
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    edited August 2010
    I have a '95 Ford Ranger STX 4.0 V6 5-speed standard. It has been stumbling and running real rough lately. It has approximately 325,000 miles on it and shows 317,000 miles. The odometer has also stuck lately. It had a check engine light on for quite a while. When I had it checked for codes it said there was a problem with the EGR and two cylinders misfiring. Well, I replaced the EGR valve, EGR pressure sensor, and the EGR solenoid. I took the EGR tube off and soaked the inside with PB Blaster overnight. I also took a small screwdriver and cleaned inside where the EGR tube connects to the manifold. I also cleaned the rubber hoses that connect the EGR pressure sensor to the EGR tube. There are some hard plastic hoses that connect the EGR solenoid, but I don't think anything is wrong with these and don't know what to do to clean them anyhow. The check engine light is off now and the truck runs a lot better, but has been stumbling at take off and it is eating gas like crazy. Piss poor mileage. I have cleaned the throttle body, replaced the throttle body position sensor, replaced the mass air flow sensor, new air filter, replaced fuel filter, and I don't think I have any vacuum leaks. The ABS light is on and I've been told that this might be the rear ABS sensor. The ones they have at Autozone, Advanced Auto, Napa, and Oreilly are remanufactured and don't work on my truck. They have a big black housing and mine has a thin metal connector. Also, the truck squeals at start and will chirp occasionally when it is running. I'm at a loss I need to figure this out before I go broke trying to keep fuel in this sucker. :confuse:
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    try running a new ground wire from the engine to the fire wall also start it up when it's dark look at the plug wires and coil to see if they are arking. the aqueel is probably a worn out belt sometimes a chirp is an idler pully.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    sorry my keyboard is starting to go bad had to log on to my other computer the (squeal) is probably the belt going bad.
  • Run a ground wire from where on the engine to the firewall. From the starter maybe? I noticed this ground off the starter sits near the rear seal that has been leaking slightly. I put some stuff in to help the seals come back hope it works. I noticed the ground from the starter had some oil leaking on it slightly and cleaned it up.

    Well, I also took the EGR valve off and sprayed throttle body cleaner in it. I sprayed it in the top port and it wouldn't run out. I think this means that the valve is sticking right? Any way I told Advanced Auto to get me another one and it should be here in the morning. I cleaned the EGR valve the best I could. Then I cleaned the tube that goes to the throttle body from the EGR valve. After that I cleaned the MAF sensor with some cleaner and took the air cleaner out and shook it out. It seemed to run better after this. I also cleaned the IAC too. I'm thinking about taking the whole EGR tube off and everything and cleaning it again. Also, probably going to hit the throttle body again. I have this feeling like I loosened stuff up and it sucked it up through the system and plugged other areas.
  • redbusredbus Posts: 4
    Well you have a 15 year old truck with 325k on the running gear? Maybe it's time to get a new vehicle.
  • Well, true it doesn't owe me much that's for sure! It is nice not having a truck payment though. ;>) I'm still pretty partial to her too.

    I went and got the OBD check at Advanced Auto and got these codes P1443 Emissions Control and P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire. So I think this tells me it could still be the same problem with the EGR? It could be the catalytic converter maybe. I can't crossreference the P1443 code, but I've seen the P0303 code before. Any other thoughts?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You may also want to get a compression check on cylinder 3 - that could be causing the emissions issues as well as the misfire code.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • bill294bill294 Posts: 1
    I've changed the rotor, cap, spark wires, ignition module, and coil. still not firing?
  • Check the pick up inside the distributor. Also verify that you have 12 volts coming from the switch wire to the ignition. Good luck.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    try changing the pickup inside the distributor
  • How difficult is it to replace the Power Steering Pump on my 96 Ranger XLT 4 cylinder, side-step, 5 speed?

    It squeals something awful (and gets difficult to steer) when the fluid level :surprise: gets the slightest bit low.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    How difficult is it to replace the Power Steering Pump on my 96 Ranger XLT 4 cylinder

    You will probably have to borrow, from the parts house, a 'special tool' to get that PS pump off. The pump shaft goes thru a bracked and the pulley is outside the bracket. You will have to have a 'puller' to pull the pulley off. The same tool has stuff the 'push' the pulley back on the new PS pump, using a threaded hole down the shaft.

    Other that that, it's pretty simple. But be careful you don't get your tools on the fluid supply tank or you will break it's seal.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I think your 95 has the 'old style' 4L, same as my 94 had.

    This motor has a strange thing that happens, it happened on my 94 with much less miles, probably at about 50,000 miles.

    The bolts on the intake manifold loosen up. This lets air directly into the cylinder charge, the O2 sensor reads a lean mixture, so the computer jacks more fuel into the next charge to counter the lean mixture. This causes your terrible milage.

    What also happened with mine, the loose intake pulls oil into the intake, and burns it. My 'low oil indicater' came on, and sure enough, I was low a quart. The truck had NEVER used a quart between changes.

    It takes a 8 or 9mm socket and you will need a flex entension to get to all of the bolts. Just start in the center on the intake and alternate side to side and to both ends. I don't remember the torque, but it isn't much, probably about 35 pound. I think you will find several bolts that are loose. Probably one near cylinder 3, causing the error messages you see.

    After I did this, my truck returned to previous oil and fuel usage. It did not leak coolant or oil around the intake when the bolts were loose.
  • my 1995 ford ranger won't start about half the time i replaced the one of the coil packs about a two week ago and it seem to have fixed the problem but now it won't start again. can anyone help me
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    check your distributor cap for carbon tracks and wear, also check the rotor for excessive wear
  • I have a 93 Ranger, 4.0 liter. In one month I have replaced the mass air flow sensor twice. Any ideas?
  • i have the same problem. my 2.3 liter ranger start jerking, misfire, when remove my foot of peddle will become worse. after running diagnose test, i replace the MAF, spark plugs, wiring. the truck is the same, i replace the MAF second time and nothing has changed, but when i unplug the MAF connection the engine sound little better and i can drive it for a few miles with some jerking, misfire and hesitating here and there. once i plug the MAF connection it seems like 10.0 earthquake shaking the engine.
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