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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Not sure about newer vehicles but on older ones if the front or rear turn signal bulb burns out the flasher will flash at a higher rate; buzzing relay implies very fast flash rate, so I'd check both bulbs and the wiring going to the bulbs.

    Also you can turn a relay into a buzzer by hooking the contacts in series with the coil, which is the configuration you end up with if there's an open (missing) ground or open (missing) +12V at the connector going to the relay -- check continuity to ground and presence of +12V at this connector.
  • I'm just posting this in case this problem should happen to anyone else. It's a hassle. I was getting near to 11mpg and i just bought the thing. After some days of frustration and the dealer(s) being of no help (computer updates are bupkiss) i first replaced the air filter, utterly clogged, then a few days later the plugs and wires (also bad. Finally i decided to replace the fuel filter and the gas i poured out of it was very dirty, so it was bad too. I did a test run. Filled up, then went one way and back, 45 mph average, returned to the pump with 59 miles. Filled up at 2.477 gallons. A big difference... 23 mpg. Truck mileage is 33,000 currently. The truck has no error codes for this trouble. I'm assuming no one ever did any maintenence on the truck. This is an 2003, automatic, 3.0 V6, power brakes/steering, single cab, 2wheel rear drive. I'm not completely sure why changing the fuel filter did the trick, but im not going to complain. I hope this helps someone out.
  • I recently purchased an 04 Ranger XLT. After the purchase I noticed half the rubber flashing on the inside of the drivers side wheel well was missing and the tie rod had a piece of yellow tape on it. After I got underneath the truck, I noticed some different color paint marks (blue, pink, etc.) These were just dabs of paint, but now I am worried that perhaps the dealership did some work they did not disclose. the previous owner told me he had nothing done, and when he traded the vehichle he remembered the rubber flashing being intact. (He his a spare key on the frame in this area, so he was sure all the flashing was there.) Explanation for the tape and color marks?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Take it to a body shop. Some of this sounds like it was wrecked on this corner and repaired.

    A body shop can easily tell you if there have been repairs done, especially recently.

    If there have been, what are you thinking of doing about it? Did the seller give you some paper that said it had never been in an accident? I bet you bought it 'as is' and there's nothing you can do about it?
  • I did buy it "as is" but the sales person told me that he would disclose any accidents. I realize this doesn't give me much recourse; however, you never know what a dealership may be willing to do if caught in a compromising situation. We shall see.

    What I don't get is that the previous owner reported nothing like what I saw underneath. It is almost as if the "accident/repair" happened at the dealership after it had been traded in on Jan. 5, 06. Hmmm....

    p.s. On a unrelated note- Your username is "bolivar". I grew up in Bolivar, MO. Is that the town to which your user names references?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    No, my user name comes from a very obtuse source.

    I think you are out of luck.

    The 'paper' on the vehicle says 'as is'.

    Anything the salesman said "Isn't worth the paper it's written on."
  • I stopped by a Ford dealership today and took a look underneath some of the late model Rangers and some of the new ones. I found the same markings on all of the driver's side tie rods and the yellow tape was in the same location as on mine on two of the '06 Rangers. I suppose that this was something put on in the factory. Or there was a rash of driver side collisions with Ranger pickups and all went to the same bodyshop for repairs. I think the former is more likely.

    Thanks for you input.
  • how do you fix the high brake light if it's leaking, i have a 2000 ranger and water on the passenger side.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, I'm sorry. I thought you meant the tape and/or markings were obviously 'new'. That is on what I based my comment - that it probably had been wrecked.

    But, yes, there are all kind of tape, sticker, and markings on various parts of an automobile. These are part numbers or inspection marks. And some of them will stay attached for a long time - years and years. But, at least to me, it's pretty obvious to me when the stickers are old, mainly because there will be dirt, oil, etc on them.

    Sorry if I mislead you.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Not exactly sure since I've never done it. But I would suppose it could be done from the outside. Remove the lens which should be held on with screws (got to get to the bulbs, right). Then the entire light assembly hopefully would be held on with screws/bolts inside the lens. This should get you to the rubber seal around the light assembly which can be replaced.

    If you can't get it off this way, then it would probably take disassembly of interior panels to get to nuts, bolts, clips on the inside that hold the light assembly on. This will be tougher to do. Interior panels are many times messy to remove. Sometimes you have to remove one quite a ways away from where you need to work, then remove more, moving to the area when you need to work. Some of them just push or snap together - these I'm always 'shaky' about trying to remove.

    Of course, you need to try to find the correct area leaking. Could be lot of places. If you park under trees for a while, the aid intake in front of the windshield can become plugged with leaves, etc and water will not drain out. When it pools up, it will find its way inside through seams in the metal.

    The small windows on the sides of extended cabs can leak.

    The rear window can leak. If there is a sliding window it can leak.
  • The ABS light on my 2wd 94 Ranger XLT (4.0 V6) began flashing Monday. It flashed in a repeating pattern... 15 flashes, then stayed on for a couple seconds, then began the pattern again.) I found that the fuse for the ABS was burned out. While driving to the parts store to buy fuses, I realized that the dash lights AND my brake lights were out, too.

    I bought a couple new fuses, replaced the burned one and voila... it worked. ABS stopped flashing and the dash and tail lights came back on. But not more than 30 seconds later, the new fuse burned out and lights went out, ABS started flashing again. Replaced fuse again... with same result.

    What could be causing this? I read online that it *might* be the Speed sensor, but I think my Ranger has two... one at the tranny and one at the differential. I also read online that the cruise control is somehow related to the speed sensor? My cruise hasn't worked in YEARS., so maybe it has been going bad for a while, and finally died.

    I'm just wondering if all these symptoms could be tied to a bad speed sensor? Any help would be appreciated. I don't mind taking it to Ford but if I can fix it myself, I'd rather do that.
  • I searched through the previous discussions but was unable to find an answer to my problem. So if my problem has already been answered, please repost for me....

    I purchased a 2001 Ranger 4 cyl. with manual transmission that had only 35K miles on it. Seemed to be in great condition. I purchased this vehicle in April of 2005. Last summer (May through September), the engine will intermittently go into a fast idle (2500 RPMs) when the clutch is depressed at a stop sign or traffic signal. After 3-5 seconds, the idle will return to normal (750 RPM). I was told by a FORD dealership mechanic that the throttle face plate needed to be cleaned (for which I was charged $165!). I now do that myself. I ended up cleaning the throttle face plate about every 2-3 weeks. The problem only seems to occur when the air temp is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit and/or the humidity is high. I have not had a problem with the idle since November.

    Any help?
  • I am thinking of purchasing a 93 Ford Ranger 4x4 Reg. Cab with a Step-side Splash side. It's a 3.0 liter 5 speed with 142,000 k. on it. Any common problems with this year/model.(The clutch was replaced last year)
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    I own a 97 Ranger with 4 cyl 5 speed, with 106,000 miles and am experiencing the same problem. My problem occured after changing the plugs and wires and coil packs. I have changed the coils twice, the plug wires twice and the plugs four times. The problem remains. I took it to the Ford dealer and they found no codes. They replaced the plugs again with OEM plugs and then stated the miss and lack of power was from having the AC on. WOW. I have not taken it to another dealer, yet. Please let me know if you find anything to correct your problem because mine is driving me crazy. Here is a list of other things I have done...
    AIR FILTER, PCV, FUEL FILTER, NEW CATALYTIC CONVERTER AND MUFFLER, THROTTLE BODY, THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, MAF SENSOR, HAD FUEL INJECTORS CLEANED AND USED PLENTY OF INJECTOR CLEANERS ADDED TO THE FUEL. :confuse:
  • Simon Bolivar, maybe?
  • jefferygjefferyg Posts: 418
    My dad has the same truck as mine with 170K on it. He told me he had a vacuum hose come loose on his and it started running very rough. The hose was on the intake manifold side of the engine.

    I've checked for loose hoses and found none, so I'm sticking with the plugs and wires for now. I'm going to get some new ones today. I'll keep you posted.

    Jeff
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Thanks for the reply. Let me know how it goes.
  • jefferygjefferyg Posts: 418
    I picked up my truck from the garage this morning. It turns out the front ignition module/coil pack was bad. However, after inspecting some of the old plugs I don't think I wasted any money in replacing the plugs and wires. A couple of the old plugs looked really good, but a few of them were in need of replacement. Since the plugs that came out were Champion, they had apparently been changed at least once before.

    My friend David, who owns the garage, said that they removed the wire from the #3 terminal on the old coil pack, there was no fire coming out of it at all.

    Total cost of the replacement was about $125. I got the parts at Autozone and David charged me $50 for changing out everything. I'm up to a total of about $200 over the past couple of months on repairs, but that's still a far cry less than a payment.

    The truck is once again running smoothly and I think a bit better than before it started missing. It's still not going to win any drag races, but who buys a Ranger with a 4 cyl for that anyway. :)
  • nav2nav2 Posts: 1
    I had to replace everything in the rear brakes of my 96 ranger. It ran fine for about a week and then the locked up. I bled them, it works for a while and then the same problem. I bled them again...., I don't want to take it in and have never had a problem fixing anything on it until now. I'm stuck. Any ideas?
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Cool. I am glad that your truck is running good again. Your right, what can you expect from a 4 cyl. :D

    I am going to take mine to a different Ford dealer and see what they have to say. :confuse:

    Take care.
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