Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1969799101102147

Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I think I remember your problem. Did I already reply that I have seen the solution, but can't remember it? I even went to another Ranger-specific site and searched it, but did not find the solution there.

    It might be your Idle Control Valve. Buy usually it causes 'surging' at idle, or just a too high or low idle. It usually doesn't cause problems between shifts (I think.)

    Anyway, take off the Idle Control VAlve, it can sometimes be cleaned. It usually is a silver and black cylinder about the size but longer compared to a 35mm film cannister. On the intake. With 2 wires into in. Be careful of the gasket under it, don't tear it so it can be reused. It has two bolts holding it on.

    When removed, you will it is basically 2 parts. An electric solonid on one end, and a small manual valve on the other. Gasoline gunk or carbon can get into the valve and stop its movement. Clean with carb cleaner, electronic cleaner, etc. HOLD THE VALVE SO THE ELECTONIC END IS UP. DO NOT GET CARB CLEANER INTO THE SOLONID END, IT WILL EAT UP THE WINDINGS AND RUIN IT!

    Put it back on. Maybe this will help. Or, maybe there is still my 'forgotten' problem.

    Do some other searches for Ranger sites and search there for your problem. I've seen it, but don't remember what the solution is...... Getting old is bad....
  • I had the same problem and i recieved a letter from the ford company that there was a wiring recall linked to the idle. I went and had it fixed. no problem after. contact a ford dealer for info

    hope this was helpful
    mjconstr@sbcglobal.net
  • mrartmrart Posts: 2
    I removed manual fuel pump from 4 cylinder in order to change fuel filter. Having trouble installing it. Any suggestions?
    mrart.
  • I Have a 97 ranger 4X4 reg. cab manual with a 3.0 V6. I want to buy 15X10 rims and then get either 33/12.50/15 or 35/12.50/15. I plan on getting a 4" suspension lift kit, will that be enough?? If not, what do i need to get for suspension? If it is enough lift, do i need any special backspacing on my wheels?? Any help is appriciated, and i Thank you in advance.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I'm not sure exactly what your problem is.

    I've never worked on one, but in the very 'olden days', where there was a manual fuel pump activated by a steel rod, and the rod came out when the pump was removed. The rod was tough to get back in and positioned on the lever in the pump it needed to contact.

    Shade tree mechanics put a big glob of grease on the rod which held it it place when it was slid back in the block. The grease was then dissolved by the oil and didn't cause any problem...
  • I have recently noticed that my check oil light will come on while driving (though not all the time) even thought my oil pressure remains at a normal rate. Could this be the sender or maybe just a wiring problem? Also, the 4x4 will make a hissing sound when it is engaged (push button). any ideas? :confuse:

    Any help is greatly appreciated,

    thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The 'Check Oil' light means you are over 1 quart low on oil, it doesn't have anything to do with oil pressure.

    Are you low on oil?

    If not, I would find the sensor and clean the connection of the wire where it connects to the sensor.
  • aaeaganaaeagan Posts: 2
    I have a 93 ranger 4x4 4.0,manual. The issue I am having is it bucks when I am in 5th gear on the highway mostly over 55mph. Its like its loosing power or not getting enough gas. Do you think my injectors need cleaned? Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Aaron
  • aaeaganaaeagan Posts: 2
    mine seems like it is missing at around 55mph or almost cutting out. Give me more details on what yours is doing.
    Sorry I dont have a fix but I would like to figure out what this problem is!
  • bmaxbmax Posts: 1
    My 93 ranger is an old R-12 system. My problem is the air conditioner is acting like the evaporator is starving, every now and then the air temp starts to slightly drop and then it gets warm again but the compressor is not cutting out on low pressure. If this were a normal commerical air conditioner I would think the TXV was not operating properly.

    From what I am understanding, a fixed orfice is used instead of a TXV. I guess that is sort of like a cap tube or heat pump. Where is this orfice located? Is it inside of the plastic housing for the evaporator or is it located in the engine compartment? I really don't know what I am looking for, or at, as far as the orfice goes.

    I have a working knowledge of air conditioning systems, but no experience with automotive air conditioners.

    Thanks for your help!
  • The very first thing I did was check the level of oil. If the oil was low the 'check oil' light would not turn on and off.
    Took the advice and cleaned the connection, I'll have to see if it works or not, thanks
  • few1few1 Posts: 1
    WE RECENTLY BOUGHT A THIS 95 KING CAB USED.THE CHIMES ON THE IGNITON STAY ON EVEN AFTER DOORS ARE CLOSED AND SEATBELTS ARE ON,STAYS ON EVEN WHEN U ARE DIVING DOWN THE ROAD .WE HAVE CHECKED FOR FUSE AND CANT FIND IN OWNERS MANUAL WHERE IT MIGHT BE,ALSO THE RADIO DOESNT WORK AND DOME LIGHT WHEN THE CHIMING IS GOING ON STAYS ON AND U CAN PLAY AROUND WITH THE IGNITON AND GET CHIMING TO GO OFF SOMETIMES DROVE 60 MILES OTHER DAY WITHIT ON ,WONDER I AM STILL PARTLY SANE,,THE TRUCK WAS WRECKED BY THE BED RECENTLY BUT RUNS GREAT ,ALSO ANOTHER PROB LOL,,THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ONAND GOES OFF AT IT;S OWN PACE,,AND abs does same as the check engine light can anyone help and when is next forum on rangers and where do i find the times of the forums.if anyone has any ideals plz help this is our only vehicle and hubby had bad heart and goes to dostor and hospital alot plz help ty
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Chimes, light on are usual for this model Ranger. The door open/closed switch is inside the door panel, near the lock/latch mechanism. Sometimes WD40 or electrical cleaner sprayed into the lock mechanism can free up a gummed up switch. Otherwise, the door panel has to come off to get to the switch to either clean it better or replace it. Do both of them in both doors.

    No idea about radio problem, just can't guess about something like this.

    Check engine light - get the 'codes' pulled. Autozone will usually do this for free and give you a general idea of what the code/s mean....
  • gwaldgwald Posts: 1
    Hi - The truck was running and starting fine. Went to start it up to go home, and it just turned over, won't start.

    I believe that I have it mostly figured out. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn on the ignition.

    - checked the inertia switch as best that I could: the button was pushed in, but I toggled it back and forth and
    checked for continuity - 3 connections, marked as NO-C-NC, which I assume is "normally open-C-normally closed".

    With the button in, the circuit is continuous between C and "normally closed", and with the button out, the circuit is continuous between "normally open" and C. I checked the voltage across the wires that go to C and NC, and I see 12V. I think all is well there..., but I don't quite understand why 3 wires...

    - On to the fuel pump: not very accessible, ouch; I want to see if there is voltage at the electric fuel pump mounted on the top of the plastic tank. The problem that I have, is that I don't understand how to get the wires off of the pump! There are little pieces of soft rubber near the connector for each wire. Can I take these wires off somehow to check for voltage? I'll have to look at a wiring diagram, because I would have expected 2 wires, 12V and ground, but there are more.

    If it turns out that there is voltage at the pump and it still doesn't pump (can't hear a thing) then is there anything else to look at, assuming that the connections are good?

    btw, I checked the fuse, and it is good.

    Thanks!
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Posts: 5
    Yes, you do have to take the upper intake off.I just did mine on my 98 2.5l and it's easier than it would first appear,but still a pain.
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Posts: 5
    Here recently my 98 Ranger has developed a very loud and annoying squeeking coming from the front end somewhere.Sounds like it could possibly be bad shocks but I don't see any signs of leakage and I don't want to replace the shocks only to find out it's the coils,bushings,etc. Has anyone alse had this problem or know if Rangers have a notorious problem like this?
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Posts: 5
    I went and took the time to do a full tune up to my 98 ranger with 115,000 miles on and afterwards I notice that it makes a rough, grinding,rattling type noise when accelerating but not everytime,more so when the higher the rpms to a certain point and then it's fine.No noise and runs really smooth.Don't own a gun,so I can't shoot it. Any suggestions?
  • rwebbrwebb Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem with my ranger. Have you had any additional luck on your troubleshooting. Your help is greatly appreciated. I have reviewed the Haynes and the diagram. The difficulty I am having is that this is an intermittent problem and does'nt stay broken long enough for me to find the problem. Thank you, Rich
  • Did you ever find it? I too can't get my Ranger smogged due to the engine check lite. It passed all other emmision tests (Calif) but won't pass the vehicle due to that lite being on. It too is due to an L1443 purge valve problem.
  • i had the same problem on my 2001 ranger. what was wrong w/ mine was the swaybar bushings. very cheap to fix. i believe the bushings were 9 bucks a piece.
Sign In or Register to comment.