Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions

2456738

Comments

  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    I use my parents.. they got it at Discount auto I think...
  • h109h109 Posts: 36
    excuse me if these are basic questions. i am new to cars. bought a 2000 pro. no regrets :-) . right now at 2500 miles/2 months.

    1) is this the right time for an oil change ?
    2) what is the minimum/maximum tyre pressure allowed for safety & stability ?

    thanks for the info.
    -hari
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    The correct tire pressure should either be located on the label on the driver's side door or in the owner's manual. And the right time for an oil change is 3 months or 3000 miles unless you wanna change it now for the first time. That's up to you.
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    Change it now... then you change it again at the recommended interval of 5K and at that change switch to Synthetic and keep the 5K intervals.. there is no way I'm running 5 K intervals on our 00 ES.. Going to do a change hopefully this weekend (3K) then again at 5K and switch to Mobil 1 for good.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    I run 32 psi in my tires year round. When, I took my 2000 ES-PRO's into the dealer for regular maintenance, I noticed sometimes the different service techs filled the tires to 30 psi and sometimes 32 psi. I did not like this haphazard variation, so now I specify 32 psi at check-in. It seems to give me even wear and the extra 2 psi can't hurt fuel economy.

    -Larry
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Victor, have you used synthetic oil before? What is the upside in switching and is there any down side? I have never used Mobil 1, myself. I have heard Mobil 1 is top box in the synthetic oil world, what do you think? The folks at the Edmunds Town Hall Oil discussions, seem to think switching is a win\win situation. I am kinda of conservative, when it comes to change. I am really on the fence, I like the 3000 mile dino oil schedule because it reminds me to have other regular maintence completed. I think I'm ready to change, however one thing bothers me. I heard once you start synthetic oil you can never go back to dino oil? True or false, Vic?

    -Larry
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    well from what I've read around and from the Synth room here, that was true way back, or on cars with high mileage that the seals and gaskets are old and worn. The Synth will scrub away deposits that may have been blocking leaks. However, our cars are still new, so it shouldn't be a problem. The benefits I've heard is that if you are in cold weather, the oil flows freely at lower temperatures and won't freeze up. Also, its able to withstand higher operating temperatures, good ifor hot climates.

    the folks over in Synthetic Motor oil room say they've gone 12K on Mobil 1 and up to 25K on Amsoil, but I wouldn't go that far. they do change the filter more frequently though. since I live in Florida, i like the idea of Mobil withstanding the hot temperatures. That and i could go to a 5K interval (maybe 7500K if the car runs fine after several 5K changes). saves hassle of changing the oil.. but get a better filter though.. The PureOne or Mobil1 Filter..

    And for switching back and force, I wouldn't recommend it anyways unless you aren't impressed with synth, but don't go every other change switching back and force. But again, that idea of not switching was due to previous formulations that cause the leaks... shouldn't be a problem now.. my Altima has 29K and at 30K I'm switching to M1 (been saying that since 21K though!!!) and the Protege WILL switch at 5K.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    try Mobil 1 in one of my Protege's and keep dino oil in the other for a year. See if I notice a difference in the summer heat and the winter cold. I have the perfect test situation. I need to check out the cost difference. My wife and I put aprox. 18,000 miles on each of our Protege's last year, we switch them occasionally to keep the mileage close on the cars.

    Dino oil: 18,000 miles divided by 3,000 mile change intervals, equals 6 oil changes a year.

    Syn oil: 18,000 miles divided by 5,000 mile change intervals equals about 3.5 oil changes a year.

    So, even if the cost is double, I still almost break even at my self-imposed change intervals. Not to mention the, time and effort to do the change out? Victor, what is the difference in price between a good quart of dino oil and a quart Mobil 1?

    Thanks in advance;
    Larry
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    Well I am now paying $1.44 for Castrol. Mobil 1 I see around $4, and I've seen as low as $3.25.

    I don't know if you might notice a difference straight away, but the most important thing, is change the oil regularly.. you also might want to look at taking samples of oil from both cars before the switch and after for each change to see since you both have the same car. Go to the Synth room as ask what are the sites for sending sample.. i have no clue.. i think that will also be wise.. seeing what the levels of contaminants are before and after..
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    I have tried and really like a couple of products from Meguiar's. Final Inspection 34 and Quik Detailer are mist and wipe products that really help a dark colored car maintain it's gloss between wax jobs. It also comes in handy for the occasional bird poop attack or bug splat. For the bird poop/bug splats, just spray it on the fairly fresh offending stuff and wipe off the yukey stuff, with a towel. The Meguiar's products make touch ups between car washes a breeze. It takes about 15 min. to mist and wipe your Protege and it looks like you just waxed and washed your car. Caution, you can only maintain a fairly clean car this way, for heavy dirt you need to wash, first. But, it is a great product for a fast detail after a rain storm, a dusty drive, over night pollen coatings and water spots from a hand wash. You can get the products at Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc. for aprox. $5.00 a bottle. I have tried, the Quik Detailer and the Final Inspection 34 and both are very easy to use and work very well.

    Respectfully,
    Larry
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Victor,thanks for the insights and suggestions. You and Speedy Pete are great resources for info on my Protege! Thank you guys for your time and effort.

    -Larry
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    I have been using Castrol Syntec since the 7000 miles breakin. Runs great. 5000 miles between changes. But i can never get synthetic (mobil-1 or castrol syntec) lower than $4/quart. average = $4.25/quart.

    thus cost of oil change is

    oil filter + labor = 12$
    oil 5 quart@4.25 = 21.25

    total = 33.25 / oil change.

    ( i don't even remember what dino oil change would cost!! )
  • My '99 es gets arco 87 octane, castrol syntec 10w-30 [I'd use 5w-30 in cold winter areas], zymol wax and recently nu-finish. All have worked well. I'm about to use an injector cleaning additive as a precautinary. I'll report on any noticeable effect.
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    your welcome.. glad to see I help someone out.. usually its the ther way around!!!


    as Chikoo said, its rare i see M1 under $4. But i did see Target I think once at 3.50, some folks have said they've seen it on sale either there or Walmart for cheaper (ocassionally).. Everytime I go in those stores I check to see.. but I've yet seen a store carry the filters..


    here's a site that has a study on the different filters..

    http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html

  • Does anyone know how to protect the paint of a silver Protege against abrasion? I live in what has recently become snow country and my car is suffering from scraper/brush trauma. For scraps on the paint near windows and the edge of the hood, is touch-up paint an option (I have never tried this and don't know if I should attempt or have a professional do it, especially with metallic paint). How can I protect the paint better in the future? I use the utmost care, but can't avoid the scrapes, unless I let the sun do the work! Thanks for your suggestions.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    I can't wait for the weather to warm up just a little bit more, here in south central PA. The first day of spring is just a week a way. I really enjoy waxing the PRO's I need to stop by AutoZone for some good stuff, hehe.

    -Larry
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    I am now at 26,500.

    anybody have some valuable tips for the 30,000 mile maintenance?
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I changed the oil on my 01 ES at 400 miles and 750 miles with Valvoline 5w30 and Mazda oil filters. I also replace the drain plug gasket (aluminum crush) every time because it helps you to not overtighten the plug if you don't have a torque wrench. I like to use meguires (sp?) high tech yellow carnuba wax on all of my cars because it lasts long and it is easy to apply.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    You can do a lot of the stuff yourself. Change the coolant and the transmission fluid. For manual transmissions, there is a drain and a fill plug on the transmission, pull the fill plug first. Pull out the drain plug and drain the transmission and flush new fluid through the fill plug hole. Put the drain plug back in and fill the transmission up until it comes out of the fill hole, let it settle, then put the fill plug back in. For automatics, pull the drain plug on the transmission pan, flush new fluid through the transmission dipsick. Put the drain plug back in and fill through the dipstick tube (not sure how much). Start the car and run it through the gears, then put it in park and check the dipstick with the car idling, fill if necessary. Coolant changes: There is a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, drain it. Start the car up with the drain plug out for about a minute, this will get everything out. Put the plug back in and fill the radiator with the car idling, wait till the engine is warmed up the put the cap back on the radiator.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Please clarify this:
    "Start the car up with the drain plug out for about a minute, this will get everything out."

    An engine with no coolant can be a dangerous thing... your temp gauge will not show the correct engine temp without coolant in there. Also without coolant, heat will not dissipate from the cylinder walls and the head so I would reccomend no more than 20 seconds of that method. Dealers and repair shops have flushing machines that do a much better job so if you are bent on getting every nook and cranny, I would suggest that. Of course, a simple drain and refill of the engine would be fine for a 30k. The intention is just to get the lost additives back in the coolant.

    As a side note:
    According to Mazda the 30k involves an oil change, replace spark plugs and air filter. That's it!

    :)
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    You start the car up to get the rest of the coolant out, it shouldn't hurt anything if you don't run it long (ie head, water pump, etc.) The dealers and repair shops machines don't actually "flush" the cooling system, they just take the old coolant out from the upper radiator hose and there is a fill hose that attaches to the radiator. It works by gravity and the water pump and nothing else. If I read my owners manual right, it says to flush the coolant at 30,000 miles or 2 years. It also wouldn't be a bad time to replace the PCV valve, air filter, and spark plugs. The manual transmission uses regular gear oil (GL5 I believe) not synthetic, so I change them at 30,000 miles. The dealer will also inspect numerous other things.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Newcar31, check this link to SPX/Robinair:


    http://www.robinair.com/products/coolant.pdf


    Any good shop would have a power flush like the above. Otherwise you are begging for a trapped air bubble in the cylinder head.


    BTW, the 2001 Pro manual says coolant should be changed at 45k then every 30k thereafter.


    :)

  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Ooops, it says 45,000/ 3years for the first coolant change, then every 2 years 30,000 miles. I'll do it at 30,000 anyways. I changed my coolant in my Acura Integra that way since it was new in 92. Never had a problem with overheating it when changing the coolant and Honda engines do not like heat. Sold it with 130,000 miles and it ran great. The mazda dealer will also "Inspect and repair, clean, adjust, or replace if necessary: Drive belt tension, idle speed, fuel lines and hoses, brake lines, hoses and connections, steering linkage, front suspension and ball joints, CV boots, bolts, nuts on chassis and body, locks & hinges, and the AC system at 30,000 miles". Thats a little more than an oil change, air filter and spark plugs. Those are the things you should do yourself. Let the mazda dealer do the rest.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    "Inspect and repair, clean, adjust, or replace if necessary"

    Translated, that statement means: We look for things that are broken or showing signs of wear and then give you a laundry list of items that we think you need repaired. If you are the slightest bit mechanically inclined you can handle these items yourself.

    Typically, a dealer will add items to their 30k service that are not suggested by the factory. Granted, preventative maintenance is usually not a bad thing but a few more bucks that you may not need to spend.

    :)
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Most shops that I have seen use a simple vaccum/gravity coolant exchange machine. The water pump of the vehicle is what "flushes" the coolant out when the vehicle is running. The machine that you just posted does the same thing when the engine is running, but it does have a motor in it so you can do it without the water pump (like when the engine is not running) To avoid air bubbles or air pockets, run the vehicle for about 5 minutes WITH THE RADIATOR CAP OFF after you have filled up the radiator with coolant. On hondas, there is an air release valve right where the upper radiator hose goes into the head. This will get rid of any air pockets.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Most people wouldn't be able to do that stuff. Most people don't know what a CV boot is, let alone know how to adjust the belt tension.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Todd, don't take offense, I love a good conversation. Tell me the sky is blue and I'll try to find a way to clarify that.LOL

    I have seen cases where air bubbles have stayed in there with the cap off(not Honda). I just look for the highest hose into the cyl head, loosen the clamp and squeeze it a few times. That usually does the trick.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    No offense taken. I work at a shop now while I am in college and I know that most people know nothing about their cars so they are better off having the dealer look at it. I would trust the dealer over anybody else but myself because there is always a bad apple mechanic. What color is your protoge? 5sp or auto?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I'm stricken in a Black DX Auto for the next 2 months, so I have no zoom joy in my blood at this time. I never worked in a shop although I did do a lot of repair work and then re-selling for a while during school. I always loved working out of my garage, trying to save people money and giving advice on how not to get ripped off. Now I'm stuck behind a desk but still working close to the industry.

    I guess this would be a good time to state that my posts are based on my opinion and not those of my sposorer(employer).

    :)
This discussion has been closed.