Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

1…106107109111112…129

Comments

  • kg11kg11 Member Posts: 530
    I don't have one on my 8.1 Sierra but have a Vortech on the wifes '98 mustang.The Vortech and other cintrifugal blowers don't give you boost at low RPMs but MAY give you more peak HP than whipples twin screw compressor.Whipple is my choice for a pickup cuz it gives you boost/torque throughout the powerband.Whipples's website can be found easily-wordsearch whipple superchargers.I intended to put one on the Sierra but I've had trans/warranty problems since it was new (10 mo.1700 mi)
    kip
  • kg11kg11 Member Posts: 530
    starting @ about 2500 for cintrifugal and 3500 for whipple.If you want the Whipple/Intercooler,installed close to 5k,but worth it.
    kip
  • gator36gator36 Member Posts: 294
    Well, last night we had a freak of nature here in So Cal. It snowed! I ran up to the local mountains (Mt. Baldy) and was turned back by the CHP in my 2001 Z71 4wd. They were requiring chains period. The section of road closed to chains only had rain earlier that turned to ice. So much for not needing chains on a 4wd with AT tires.
    Needless to say I was able to find my way to some good snow to play around in and made $40 in the process. Pulled 4 people out of the ditch. I didn't even ask for money. Just trying to be helpful.
  • playdoughplaydough Member Posts: 8
    The Les Schwab chains I picked up have the "diamond" pattern over the tire. I tried to trade in an old pair of unused cable chains (from my ex '88 K1500) but they said they don't carry cables any more. Good idea to install the chains at home to check the fit - I broke the rubber tensioner when I test fit the chains in my driveway (Les Schwab replaced the set free of charge).
  • tonyytonyy Member Posts: 26
    Put um on the front and let me know if anything breaks.
  • michgndrmichgndr Member Posts: 160
    Hopefully, I'll really need the answer to this question. 2001 1500LS x-cab Z-71 w/5.3L engine

    How difficult is it to install an engine block heater? $35 option on a new truck...what's involved with retrofitting an existing rig?

    Is the standard GM heater a decent mechanism , or is there some other option that's far superior for similar cost?
  • everharteverhart Member Posts: 59
    It's easy to install as it goes in where a freeze plug is on the side of the block. I've installed 3 or 4 of them over the years. I think both (GM's & aftermarket) worked the same, just don't buy one that goes in the radiator hose line as a neighbor did & never did do the job.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    If your mechanically inclined not a poblem but otherwise have competent shop do it. It will require draining sytem, knocking out freeze plug and installing heater then refill everything. Easy if your mechanically inclined not so otherwise. The better way is to order/buy the vehicle with already installed.

    Reality, a 5 minute warm up before going anywhere will do the same job if you can leave your vehicle unattended during this warm up.

    Ray T.
  • rickheckrickheck Member Posts: 7
    Am looking at buying a 1999 Z71 and would like to know where I can find the coding for the VIN as well as the build sheet to see what options it has. The build sheet coding will tell me what rear end is in it, if it has the locking differential, etc. Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Rick heres a site for RPO (build codes). These codes are found in the glovebox


    http://www.gm-trucks.com/RPO_1999.shtml


    as for the vin check out this site


    http://www.mudcrazy.com/


    on the right hand side click on vin decoder

  • rickheckrickheck Member Posts: 7
    Ryan, thanks a bunch. Just what I was looking for but couldn't find!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    your welcome glad i could point you in the right direction :)
  • rickheckrickheck Member Posts: 7
    Can anyone give me a link for GM engine specifications including horsepower and torque ratings for 1990 to present? Thanks in advance.

    --Rick--
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    http://www.gmpowertrain.com
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    heres a better link


    http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/engines_cartruck/vortec_silver/index.htm

  • rickheckrickheck Member Posts: 7
    Ryan, thanks again. I've been surfing for over an hour with no luck and you reply with an answer in a couple minutes!

    I'm looking at buying a very clean 1999 Z71 ext. cab short bed w/ 41,000 miles that's pretty well loaded. 5.3l, LS, towing, premium sound w/cd/tape, locking rear differential, 6 way power seats, key less entry, etc. Pretty well all the options. The guy will sell it to me for $16,900. What do you think? From everything I can tell that's a hell of a deal.

    I currently have a 1993 Z71 w/104,000 miles with no problems that runs and looks great. I like my current truck but am thinking the 1999 at that price is too good to pass up.

    --Rick--
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Sounds like a good deal. What color is it and how is the paint on it? New tires or are they original? If they are the same they will probably need to be replaced soon so keep that in mind
  • rickheckrickheck Member Posts: 7
    Gray exterior and dark gray interior. In and out look like new. Not a dent, ding or scratch. Not a mark on the undercarriage. New General 265s. I would probably switch the Progressive wheels w/BFG All Terrain 295/75/16's that are on my 1993 with it. I think I can get $9,500 for my 93.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    might have trouble with the 295's unless you add a body lift

    I have 285's and this is the largest tires i have heard anyone go on a new style chevy without having problems with rubbing or such

    also did the previous owner have any accessories added? Was the truck in the shop for any work under warranty?
  • tengatenga Member Posts: 20
    I need some advice on running CB antenna cable. There are two alternatives, one, use a window mount, or two, use an antenna mount that bolt to fender under the hood and comes up between the fender and the hood. My last truck/CB hookup worked fine mounted under hood, on the fender.
    My dilemma is how do I run the cable thru firewall, if I use fender mount alternative? Or how do I run cable down and then to front of cab under the plastic molding (rock arms, etc,)? I can't find any 2000/2001 or 2002 GMC Sierra manuals to help me with is problem. The crew cab has auto seats, so taking out the passenger seat would be a real mistake without a manual. Any and all suggestion are appreciated. Tom
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    A block heater should be really easy to install on your 5.3. Unlike older engines that have a freeze plug in an almost inaccessible location, the 5.3 heater is located on the left side of the engine just above and slightly forward of the oil filter. You should see some kind of a cover plate or plug. As someone else stated earlier, you will have to drain the cooling system. I disagree with the recommendation to just let your engine run for five minutes. The whole purpose of the heater is to make it easier to start your truck and also to help reduce emissions.

    Looking in the service manual it appears the 5.3 uses a new type of heater that just screws in. The manual states you should apply GM P/N 12346004 thread sealant ( or equivalent) to the threads if reusing the old heater, but it makes no mention of what to do if installing a new one. Then torque down to 37 ft pounds. Be careful when routing the electrical cord up front. My heater cord also has some kind of aluminum insulation covering the first foot or so. Then it disappears into the sheathing.

    As for alternatives, it's hard to beat the block heater. We used to use tank heaters, but they were power hogs (1000 to 1500 watts for V-8s) and they don't seem to work on today's vehicles. I don't know of anyone who ever used the radiator heaters, they were that unpopular in Alaska. Today the only thing you can find here is the block heater. That's the way I would go.
  • xyz71xyz71 Member Posts: 179
    This is what Kelly Blue book lists for the truck you are looking at -

    I have never heard of 295 75 16 tires, but I have seen many Silverado trucks with 305 70 16's. These are the same diameter as 285 75 16, just wider.

    1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Pickup Short Bed
    Engine: V8 5.3 Liter
    Trans: Automatic
    Drive: 4 Wheel Drive
    Mileage: 41,000

    Equipment
    Z71 Suspension
    LS
    Air Conditioning
    Power Steering
    Power Windows
    Power Door Locks
    Tilt Wheel
    Cruise Control
    AM/FM Stereo
    Cassette
    Compact Disc
    Premium Sound
    Dual Front Air Bags
    ABS (4-Wheel)
    Leather
    Power Seat
    Towing Pkg
    Alloy Wheels

    Consumer Rated Condition: Excellent
    "Excellent" condition means that the vehicle looks great, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning. It should pass a smog inspection. The engine compartment should be clean, with no fluid leaks. The paint is glossy and the body and interior are free of any wear or visible defects. There is no rust. The tires are the proper size and match and are new or nearly new. A clean title history. This is an exceptional vehicle.


    Private Party Value $19,395
    Private Party value represents what you might expect to pay for a used car when purchasing from a private party. It may also represent the value you might expect to receive when selling your own used car to another private party.
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    If I were to put in a 2 channel amp and 2-8" subs, are there any concerns regarding using the original speakers and hooking up to the factory head unit? Have an oportunity to get the audio equipment from a friend at a good price, just not sure if it's going to involve changing out anything else. Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Cheaply made of paper. What they call a tweeter is a piece of plastic that has no resemblance to one. I would change the front speakers if you're going to remove the door panel. Course I didn't really like the headunit either....
  • rickheckrickheck Member Posts: 7
    Thanks guys. My current BFGs ARE 295/75R/16. I believe they even make 305/75R/16 BFGs. To fit the 295s on my 1993 I had to trim the plastic shroud below the front bumper. Ryan, no accessories have been added on the 1999. As far as I know no work was done under warranty. The guy selling it is the second owner. Ran a Carfax that came back clean........ I will need to check and see if the 295s will fit the new body style. Thanks for the input!
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    remeber, GM was able to put more technology into our trucks by using those great factory speakers........LOL
  • xyz71xyz71 Member Posts: 179
    I had a rattle in my dash since truck was new. (99 Silverado Z-71)Only noticed on cold mornings - only lasted a few minutes - as soon as truck warmed up rattle would stop. If I put my hand on the drives side defroster vent it would stop. I finally had enough - pulled off front of dash, took off gauge cluster. There is a space of about 1/4 inch between defroster vent and bottom of dash. I put 3 beads of silicone to glue defroster vent to the top of dash. Let it dry over night and now my rattle is gone.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    True, I've never seen speakers like those before.
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    but they were in a transistor radio from Japan........circa 1965.
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    I mounted my K40 thru the roof in my 2k 2500 X-Cab. Have the overhead counsel. Routed the cable toward the passenger's side rear pillar down the door moulding, forward under the door sill, under the carpet toward the driver's side and mounted the CB under the dash next to the center consol - had just enought cable (18' came with the antenna). I use a plug to the center power outlet next to the cigarette lighter for power (I would hard wire it if I used it more). All cable is hiden and works fine. Only problem is it just about broke my heart when I drilled the 1.125" hole in the roof for the antenna! If you do this, be sure to seal the roof mount to prevent moisture leaks - I used the K40 doughnut AND additional silicon just for insurance.
    Hope this helps.

    John
    aka "Red Rider"
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    Erik:
    Know anything about the 2k 6.0L heater? Looks like my block plug is brass with an indent for some kind of "allen" type of wrench. Could it be as easy as drain the system, unscrew the plug and screw in the heater? Sounds too easy to be true and relatively easy to get to! (My truck came off the lot so I didn't have the opportunity to order a heater factory installed.)

    Any info anyone can add would be appreciated.

    John
  • michgndrmichgndr Member Posts: 160
    Thanks for the heater advice.

    I'm Anchorage bound this summer. We might have to share a beer sometime, eh?
  • tengatenga Member Posts: 20
    Thanks!! I decided to run the antenna cable from the back window, down behind the p/m (plastic molding) to the bottom of the cab. Then forward under the floor molding, under the p/m for the post between frt and rear doors, then under the frt door molding and routed the cable behind glove box to CB, which is mounted in middle of the dashboard, even with the glove box.
    I've never removed the molding before and my big concern was snapping the clips back in or worse, breaking the clips and having to replace them.
    But thanks for the advice. My long narrative was for the next guy, so he wouldn't get as nervous about installing the cable as I was, when I started pulling that plastic molding off, on a brand new rig. Tom
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    Tom, hey buddy do you have some pics of what you did? When I got my truck, within 24 hours of taking delivery, I had the whole console out on the floor trying to figure out how the mount my CB radio. Gave up! Put it all back together waited for inspiration... but none came. How about some hints on what you did? What brand radio and what mods did you do?

    matthew
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Go to


    http://www.mudcrazy.com/


    On the right click on technical install info


    THere is a link on how he did his cb and antenna

  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    1. Have any of you guys installed one of those "High-4 Headlight Kits", and if so how do you like it? These are the ones that keep your low beams on when you turn on your high beams. Stylinconcepts.com sells the kit for $19.95 and says it is Easy To Install, and the only one that works with daytime running lights and auto on headlight systems.

    2. Have any of you guys installed those PIAA Platinum Series SuperWhite Performance headlight bulbs, and if so how do you like them?
  • cowboyjohn1cowboyjohn1 Member Posts: 125
    David

    I installed the module which keeps the the low beams on when the high beams are turned on, and also the one which keeps the foglights on when the low beams are on. I like them both. I got them from R&D Resources, or something like that. I especially like the headlight mod as I do some driving in the country where almost no cars are around - like northern Nevada - and it is great to have all that light. Neither was hard to install. One was very easy and the other required taking the instument panel bezel off. When you do that, make sure that you retain all the clips on the back of the bezel.

    Sounds like your job is very interesting. I would enjoy going along on some of those test flights. I have stalled a lot of different airplanes, but none in the heavy category. I used to work on rocket engines, but I didn't get to ride on any of them either. There were a few firings that blew parts clear off the test stand, so kind of gives one second thoughts about riding one.
    cowboyjohn
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Same here. Did the both the fog light and the hi beam switches. For the price, it sure beats trying to remember to turn the fog lights on and the hi beam is useful when there are no cars around.

    I also did the super whites. It does seem brighter, however it comes at a price as the beam is not as wide as the stock lights. It is a whiter light though. For the money that they want for those bulbs, I'd give it second thoughts the next time around. Might be a better deal to install the real ones. Then again we're talking $60 vs. $500.
  • 1997montez341997montez34 Member Posts: 202
    http://www.cheersandgears.com/boards/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=168
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    I'll probably go with just the kit that keeps the low beams on when the high beams are on.
    I haven't found much use for the factory fog lights yet since they aren't very bright. At least I have the wiring and switch to them in case I want to change them out for something better.

    Ahhh, northern Nevada. My father-in-law did some hunting there last year on a 100,000 acre ranch. The rancher's kids had to drive 25 miles just to catch the school bus!!!

    It took a lot of hard work and I've had to bust my a** for many years to finally get where I'm at today. I've been working at Boeing for 11 1/2 years now, and at 36 years old, and I can honestly say that "I like my job, and I like going to work". Some days I get to sit behind a desk, some days I get to go to our lab and do testing, some days I get to go test flying on a brand new 737, 747, 757, 767 or 777 airplane. And about 4 time a year I get to go travel on a business trip. It's usually is a domestic trip, but every once in a while I get to go international (business class). So far I've been to London (3 times), Bangkok (1 time), and Kiev Ukraine (1 time). And it looks like this June I get to go to Dubai UAE and actually do some certification testing. This will require me to be up in the flight deck on an actual revenue flight on one of their 777's. Hope I don't get shot or tackled by other passengers when I enter the cockpit.

    I was watching the History Channel (I think) the other night and they had a episode on rocket failures. It's amazing just how many firings have gone bad over the past 60 years and have ended in spectacular failures. It would give me second thoughts too.
  • cowboyjohn1cowboyjohn1 Member Posts: 125
    David
    Sounds like a fun job. The rocket engine business was the most exciting job I have had. I have been involved with many firings and the power of those things has never ceased to amaze me. The places you have traveled to sounds fun also. I may go to Russia on a job I am presently working on. It involves protection of Special Nuclear Materials.
    cowboyjohn
  • mpalombompalombo Member Posts: 186
    Craig,

    Thanks for the heads up on the pics.

    I WANT ONE!!!!!!!

    My wife is going to kill me...lol
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    I had heard that the new trucks were going to have the Ave' front end... Somehow the pics make it look better on the truck than on the Avalanche from which it comes. Console looks more flowing into the dash instead of an after thought. But the interior pics must be of a crew cab as there is no pass side air bag switch (?)

    Mark you may be in trouble and I better find a job quick so I can trade up (?)HMmmmmmmmm!

    matthew
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    xring...My previous post is also applicable to the 4.8 and 6.0, in addition to the 5.3. It should be pretty easy once you drain the coolant.

    michgndr...A cold beer tastes really good during our hot summer days. I'm in the phone book.

    2003 Rado...I don't like the new snout. Reminds me of those ugly new Cadillacs!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    dont start with the 03's

    I hate em
  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    Been happy with the filter ,but was wondering about servicing. Truck has 26k, filter maybe 20k ,what is recomended ? thanks
  • tengatenga Member Posts: 20
    Ryan has got the right source for you. I would just be reinventing the wheel. Mud Wheel.com is a real good site and some great pictures. I prefer to hardwire my CB, because it worked for me in my Jeep wagon, when I lived in the Reno area, and now in Oregon, when I used it in my old Ram 50 to hunt Muleys in eastern Oregon. The terrain in both places is rough on a rig, but I never had a problem when I needed to us the old CB. Tom
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    you clean it. I would think it's time. K&N has a cleaning kit. You spray on cleaner then gently hose from inside out to clean it out. I kept my stock filter to put on while the K&N dries. 'course that only works on the Xplorer where I have just the filter. With an intake system the filter is diff. and the stock one doesn't fit. After it's dry you lightly oil it again.
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    My first morning without my truck. Left it at the dealer last night because when the truck is cold and I start it up I hear a high pitched squeek from under the hood. It only happens at idle, when you rev it up, it goes away. Also having them take care of a rattle coming from the passenger seat when going over bumps. I kept trying to look for it, but finally gave up and decided to let the dealer have a crack at it...
    Made it almost 9 months before my first dealer service visit...not too bad considering neither one of them are really a problem, just an annoyance.

    Bob
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    high pitched squeal is probably the serpentine belt. When the temps dropped mine started squeaking. When it gets warm it doesnt. Only happens at idle and for a few minutes.

    my Moms blazer was doing the same thing. She took it in and they chnaged the belt. Stopped for awhile but its back to squeaking. Guess its a normal thing when its cold?
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles