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Volvo V40 - Information & Experiences

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  • llgllg Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 v40 lse and my steering wheel bubbled and peeled at about 23,000 miles
    it was covered under warranty, thank goodness.
  • Here's a new V40 problem. Mine is a 2000 model year. My turbo cuts out unexpectedly - I'm told that it's the camshaft valve that gets stuck ($200 to fix). And without the turbo, it can feel like you're pulling a trailer. My local newspaper in Colorado states that the NHTSA is investigating this problem in Volvos. Does anyone else have this problem? It throws a "check engine" code - P0013 on my scanner.
  • I'm looking at a 2000 V40 tonight and I've tried to do all the research I can. It's a great price and has just had a brake job. Any thoughts/advice on this?
  • I bought the same year V40 new 5 1/2 years ago. Look at message 159 for my latest problem. If I could do it again, I would have bought a Subaru, Toyota, or Honda. Yes, the car is fun to drive, but it's higher maintenance than other makes. If you're good with cars, own an OBD II scanner, and don't mind tinkering with the car from time to time, it may be fun to own. If not, I'd look elsewhere.
  • I have a 2004 V40 and just recently noticed that the gear shift panel does not illuminate (P, R, N, D, etc..) and it makes it very difficult to see at night when I'm trying to put my car into gear. I hardly drive at night which explains why I probably never noticed this before. My dimmer knob it set at the highest setting. In addition, I also noticed that the the radio control indicators above the knobs are also not illuminated.

    I'm wondering if this is how the car is supposed to be or if I need to take this in to the dealer for repair.

    To be honest, I don't particularly like going to the dealer because they have a way of dimissing small problems and making me feel like I don't know what I'm talking about!

    Any input about a similar problem would be most appreciated!
  • cczccz Posts: 1
    Good idea if you want to know all the Volvo mechanics on a first name basis and you'd rather spend $500 a month on repairs than on a new car payment. :lemon:
  • I have a 2004 V40 with 38k miles on it. I have had many of the problems people here have been talking about. Here is my list:

    -The leather on the steering wheel just started bubbling and peeling away. Took the car to Volvo and they replaced the steering wheel.

    -The leather on the seats is wearing away also and I predict that I will be forced to either have the seat re-upholstered or buy a new seat by next year.

    -The paint is not very resistant to nicks and dings... or the clear coat is of low quality. I have a 97 4Runner with over 150k miles on it and it does not have near to the amount of nicks in the paint as the 1 year old Volvo does.

    -When first starting the car in the morning (I park my car in the garage every night) The breaks barely work. The first time this happened I took it into our dealer and they said they could not find a problem. The problem still persists. I have found there is a 'RECALL' for this exact same problem.

    -For some reason, at various times, the steering wheel shakes/shimmies. Does not appear to be out of alignment. When I let go of the wheel the car maintains a straight path. Feels like the front end is shaking or almost like the engine is working very hard.

    -The head lights have both been hit by rocks and at near to $500 a light... I can not really afford that, waiting for one to end up in a junk yard or 3rd party light. I did find that Volvo sells a plastic cover for the lights to help protect them from this. If your lights are still in crack free, you might want to rush out and by these 'sticker' type covers. I am hoping for some kind of after market hard plastic cover someday.

    -I live in a wet area (Olympia, WA)and taking off on a hill, the front end slides out. I have not predicted a time when using the 'W' button in advance before starting off and spinning tires on the street. Also if the road is just a bit wet or even slippery, the front end will give out and so far I've managed to gain control before crashing (so now we drive very carefully in these situations)

    -I have one break light that keeps burning out. I burned out my first one after three months; Volvo replaced it and checked the electrical. Good to go until about 7 months of ownership. Took it to Volvo, replaced it, good to go. Now at 13 months of ownership the light that says my break light is going out goes on occasionally. But the break light is good. I don't understand.

    -There was this plastic piece that sits on the end of track that the seat slides back and forth on. It fell off and I guess it broke off. That was after 2 months of ownership. I think they ordered a new one?

    -I was disappointed that I was not notified of the recalls to my vehicle. I will call the number on Monday.

    -One of the rear seat belts is having a problem at the buckle. 3 out of 5 attempts to insert the belt into the buckle results in a fail to secure.

    -The dealer in Fife, Wa. has always been excellent. But the dealer in Olympia (which has won all kinds of awards for customer satisfaction) has been miserable and unfriendly. I agree with an earlier post that if you are unhappy with one dealer go to another. I drive a good 40 miles to go to the Fife dealer where the Olympia dealer is about 10 miles away.

    -Fuel Economy is also decreasing, the trip meter says I am getting from 28 to 32. But on paper, it is closer to 18 to 24. Normal Driving. I have been on time with every service interval.

    -The factory radio is dangerous while driving because you MUST look (not just a quick glance) at it when making adjustments.

    -The 12 Volt DC receptacle can only handle 20Amps and I wish it could handle 30Amps so I could plug in 30Amp DC to AC converter that I bought from Radio Shack. AND I can not find one that is less than 30Amps

    -Some times the door locks on the car just open. And other times, the rear door locks will not open with-out pushing the lock and unlock and lock and unlock sequence on the button.

    -The plastic on the key is breaking over the buttons.

    At times I like the car and at times I don't. I did like it when I drove it off the lot, but a little over year later, I am not very happy with my choice. If the car was 5 years old, then I would be more understanding; thinking wear and tear. I don't think I will be buy another Volvo... Nor am I recommending them when people ask me my opinion. I tell them my experience with my V40. I admit I mostly bought the car based on Volvo's reputation and I am disappointed.

    I understand this is a long entry. I contemplate daily now if it will be worth the effort writing to Volvo expressing my experiences, disappointment, and troubles I have had with my V40. This blog came in handy in clearing my thoughts. AND this is my own account with my V40 that cost me $28K (A lot of money for me).

    I have been very satisfied with the service I have received from the Volvo Dealer in Fife, and this next visit will be the first time I will have to pay.

    Enough for now...

    Perhaps after next week when I take my car to the dealer and get ready to fork over the big bucks for a one year old car for things that normally don't go wrong on a one year old car with 38K miles on it, I will post the results here.
  • is there a way to get the code for the reason that the check engine light is coming on without going to a mechanic
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Not really.
    You could buy an obd-II reader and pull the code. There are some universal codes, but alot are Volvo specific.
    Some auto parts places will pull the code for you free of charge.
    You would still have to have a mechanic correct whatever is wrong
  • merckxmerckx Posts: 565
    As I recently lert a long-term career as an educator to become a Volvo sales consulant,i of course found your post disconcerting.

    I have always felt that none of the European brands are as reliable as perhaps one would hope. My own experience with a VW and an Opel(Catera) bear this out. European cars just seem to have a desireabitity that the Japanese brands lack. And Volvo is no different...I don't own one yet(just two months into this),but the cars do strike me very favorably. Ergonomically they seem perfect....And I do believe they are the safest brand on the road. And I can believe that they might have many niggling problems such as you have reported....They do seem very durable all the same...I've seem many recently pushing 250,000 miles.....
  • bru8bru8 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 V40 that cranks for a long time before starting. Because of dealer location it is diffacult to get this car to Volvo for repair so I took it to a local forign car mechanic. He checked the car with his computer and found it had a bad crankshaft sensor. The car has 128000 miles so the timing belt and water pump were also replaced along with the sensor. The car still had the same starting problem . After another check on his computer a code came up for a bad MAP sensor. The MAP sensor was replaced and the problem still existis. After $1,300.00 and four trips back to the shop I don't know what to do! Has anyone had this problem or know how to fix it?
  • bonzelbonzel Posts: 1
    I went to fill up my gas tank the other day following some wet weather and the automatic gas tank would not unlock. While searching the spare tire area of the car, looking for a tool to manualy open the gas tank, I found about two inches of water where the spare tire sits.

    Anyone else have this problem?
  • I've had the same problem for at least two years now. I've spent so much money to fix this problem and it's still not fixed. However, my car's symptoms are opposite of yours - my car accelerates/idles hot on its own - so much for buying a Volvo because of its safety reputation. In the spring of 2004, the dealership replaced the thermostat and sensor to fix this problem. It worked for about a year and a half and I'm back to the same issue. I am ready to get rid of my V40. And it only has 72k miles.
  • rambo5rambo5 Posts: 37
    Is this car and the V50 availble with factory Sirius radio or an Ipod adapter?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    No.

    No Volvo's are available w/ factory Sirius or ipod.
    IPod adaptors aren't available for the S40, yet.
  • Hello!

    Just signed up, have a question on the engine light. It came on a few weeks ago, went to volvo dealership and had a part replaced. Then a week later it came on again, went back to the dealership. They worked on it for 12 hours and couldn't figure out why the light was on? Only one part wasn't reading anything on the computer. They swamped parts out and placed in another V40 and everything was fine. Then the light turned OFF. I have a warranty so they replaced the entire computer. The light stayed off. Just called to come get it and they said the light came back on briefly. Anyone had problems like this or can offer advice? Seems to be running okay, they said all the techs looked at it a volvo specialists couldn't find the reason it came on. Should I drive it? Please help. Happy with the car otherwise :)
  • Got the car looked great and ran great until 12000 km since then problems. Now have 45000 km. Started stalling out after warm start, new software added to computer and updates then, headlight went computer issue, ABS went, air bag light kept coming on, wouldn't start did not recognize the key. Thought problems are over key could not be released from the ignition. Dealer has been good about service - get this suggested to me with all of the problems that I am having it would be wise to get an extended warranty.
  • saphiesaphie Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a '96 Volvo v40, she has done 150 miles and has been a gem! However, I have recently found a water in the well of the tyre area of the car as well and this worsens every time it rains. I have checked the sunroof drains and they appear fine. However, now I think it might be the rear seal on the hatch door. Did you have any joy in finding out what caused your "water in the well?"
  • I recently had my 2000 V40 100k mi to the dealer for the "check engine" light. I was told it's a problem with the catalytic converter. They were not exactly certain what the problem was, so they asked me to pay $280. for "upgrades" and if those upgrades did not solve the problem then one or both converters will need to be replaced @ $1,000. ea. (I did not know my car has a front and rear converter) I have only had it back 2 days and now the front drivers side is shaking tremendously when I accelerate above 30 mph. Yet there is no check engine light on. Does a converter pose this problem? Again, it is only when excellerating, and I noticed weeks ago a roar in that area of the car when excellerating. Also, is it typical practice that you pay to "try" repairs and if that does not fix it pay more and more until they get it right? I asked the service man if the fix does not work, do you replace my old parts and give me money back? And he laughed!! If they weren't broken in the first place why should I have to pay for them? They just got it wrong.
  • gsnydergsnyder Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2004 V40 and so far so good. Nicest car I've ever owned. But find it funny that when I accelerate the doors don't automatically lock like you'd find on a ford taurus for pete's sake. Is this normal or do I need to have it programmed to do this? Any ideas? :confuse: ">
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