Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Silverado Problems

2456772

Comments

  • rsssrsss Posts: 6
    clunking and hard shift... I've had truck in about 14 times, they did all the bulletin stuff, no good. currently waiting for extended warranty. hope they can get a fix as I am not alone with problem.
  • I had a lot of problems rsss, especially with getting those lazy mechanics off their butts from behind the computers. Finally I contacted the Better Business Bureau and got somewhat satisfying results. I'm suppose to be getting a certified letter from GM stating that my driveline will be covered until 100K, no questions asked (0 deductible also). My problem still exists, but at least I'll be covered for a few more miles. Pretty pathetic when they can't diagnose though!!
  • I agree, it really gets annoying when "mechanics" can't do anything unless the computer tells them something is wrong! Guess we don't need mechanics any more in service departments, just computer programmers?

    I even had the service manager tell me that they added oil, my 2000 burnt 1 1/2 quarts. Then asked me what kind of oil I used. I told him Moil 1 - he looks at me, kind dumb, and says, "that's a synthetic isn't it?"; then went on to say, with even a stupider look, "I don't think the regular oil we added will hurt the motor."

    Gives me a lot of faith in service.
    Chris
  • More on the difficulty on the rear doors shuting in the cold.
    The servicing dealer called today and said that he has the new latches in stock, but the new striker is still on back order. These parts are the fix according to the dealer service manager.

    GM did a good job of keeping this problem a secret from the public. I did file a report with the NHSTA for the doors. I think it is a safety issue that GM does not want to acknowledge publicly.

    As soon as I can get GM part numbers I will share them with all.
    While you are in getting the doors fixed make sure you ask for the rear quarter window replacement. Thsi will take care of any wind noise you may be having. Another secret fix from GM, unless you specificly ask for the replacement.

    Good Luck!!!
  • Ouch. Maybe Chevy got the kinks worked out of their 2001's?

    My wife and I are considering a 2001 Silverado 4X2 LS SB. If you have problems with your 2001, I'd like to know about them sooner rather than later.

    Also, I'd like to know how the service is at the dealers? Last time I had to go to the GM service center at the local dealership...let's just say we sold the car and bought an Acura.

    Thanks
  • We bought a 2000 K2500 Crew Cab. As you may see other places on this board, Chevy service varies area to area, I guess. My opinion, it stinks, at least here in Wisconsin. Zone managers are no help. All it seems like the Chev. mechanics do is check computers. I've had nothing but bad luck, and, as a Chevy customer (trucks) all my years of driving (even learned on a C10), I am discouraged and doubt I'll buy another one anytime soon.
    Lots of luck.
    Chris
  • john294john294 Posts: 56
    they must be giving these out like crazy ,trying to make up for their inferior product ,I am waiting for my driveline 5yr 60k war.BBB rep says itll take 6-8 weeks to get it,whats up with that?Instead of service manager checking to see if the trans computer update would help my incline noise he made me go to BBB,once I get my ex. war.Im going to go back in and demand the trans computer be checked and have the upgrade done (shifting OverDrive from 40-45 to 50-55).Anyone with GM problems should go directly to the BBB instead of messing with uncareing dealerships,maybe thatll make GM take notice or maybe GM doesnt care cause They already got your money....PS anyone else out there with the incline noise or has had the trans comp upgrade???
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    So far the only annoyance with my '01 2wd x-cab is a creaking noise from the right & left ends of the dash in cold weather (32 degrees or less)until the interior gets warm. Otherwise, it's been a good first 1200 miles in 3 months. Definately a better truck than the '00 that Chevrolet got back-vibrations they couldn't solve.
  • int73int73 Posts: 3
    I've had most of the problems that I have read here. Accelleration chirp, ext. door problems, etc. Has anyone had a speaker blow in the door? I have. Went to dealership and they said they would need my truck for a day to trouble shoot the problem. I said screw that. I went and bought new speakers and installed them my self. And interestingly enough, found out why the speaker had blown. Well, yes, one of the reasons was the volume of the radio at times, but after buying a manual with a wiring diagrams, I discovered that the positive and negative leads to the speaker were reversed. I verified what the positive and negative wire colors were on the schematic and did the 9V battery test on the poles of the speaker. The speaker sucked in when it was suppose to push out. So the voice coil was destroyed over time.
  • int73int73 Posts: 3
    I have a 00'Slilverado with 18K. The problem that still baffles me is the rattle that I get when I turn left and right on a bumpy surface at slow speeds. It sounds like plastic bumping on something in the drivers side of the engine compartment. I didn't experience this until it got cold. I noticed that the brake fluid reservoir rides on two pins. If the reservoir is rattled side to side, It makes the same sound that I have heard. I tied it to the side so it couldn't move, but still have the rattle. Does anyone have a solution for this?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    What kind of speakers did you install?

    Regarding your question, do you have a 4wd or 2wd?
  • int73int73 Posts: 3
    I installed the Infinity Kappa60.2cs component speakers. They are 6" round drivers with tweeter and crossover. If I had it to do over again, I would put the 6.5" drivers in. They will fit in the door frame, but will not fit in the plastic clip currently holding the speaker in. Bigger is better, RIGHT? The 6" fit in the plastic clip frame with some slight modification. As far as the tweeter installation, I punched a hole with an Greenlee knockout punch in the original tweeter location.

    AND I have a 4wd Z71.
  • fried2fried2 Posts: 13
    Some "does yours do this" questions. Have less than 300 miles so far:

    1. Notice the engine has an intermittent shake at idle
    2. Does not have the 60-65 shake, steering wheel very stable, but notice some slight "hop" at lower speeds (say 30-40).
    3. Wind noise, haven't tried to isolate yet.

    Any recommendations on bedliner/mat, rail caps, deflectors, splash guards?
  • jkeefe1jkeefe1 Posts: 21
    I own a 00 Silverado that has ~9K miles and since day one the truck pulls slightly to the right at any speed. Its been in the shop twice and to no avail, the problem has never been fixed. They have adjusted the Toe and adjusted tire inflation and even swapped the two front tires. I asked about a Service Bulletin (00-03-07-002), titled Revised Wheel Alignment for this model and the Service Manager ignores me. Has anyone experienced this problem and what have you done to fix it?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    thanks for the info.

    Your description of the problem sounds like the intermediate steering shaft as it's located in that area of your engine compartment. However, it's usually felt in the steering also when going over the bumps.

    fried2

    The hop, is it noticeable in the front or rear? Your intermittent shake would be diagnosed by dealer as normal. Wind noise, try checking between doors and rear ext cab windows. Good luck.
  • I am going through the same problem with my GMC, Short Box, Regular Cab, Z71. This is what the dealer has done so far & the results.

    New wheel alignment. (Factory spews. were wrong)

    Intermediate steering shaft was replaced. (This gets loose at 8K miles or so & rattles).

    Steering box was replaced. (The power assist systems are not balanced & this causes a pull usually to the right).

    Now there is no pulling to either side. My problem now is not enough caster! The tires are not tracking straight ahead well enough to satisfy me. Although VERY SLIGHT, I have to correct left to right on uneven road surfaces. When the dealer tried to increase the caster, camber, toe-in, the pulling to the right came back. The system is extremely sensitive to any changes. The Service Manager is still going through GM Etch System to get a solution to the problem.

    ad
  • Spell check screwed that one up. This should be easier to read!

    I am going through the same problem with my GMC, Short Box, Regular Cab, Z71. This is what the dealer has done so far & the results.

    New wheel alignment. (Factory specs. were wrong)

    Intermediate steering shaft was replaced. (This gets loose at 8K miles or so & rattles).

    Steering box was replaced. (The power assist systems are not balanced & this causes a pull usually to the right).

    Now there is no pulling to either side. My problem now is not enough caster! The tires are not tracking straight ahead well enough to satisfy me. Although VERY SLIGHT, I have to correct left to right on uneven road surfaces. When the dealer tried to increase the caster, camber, toe-in, the pulling to the right came back. The system is extremely sensitive to any changes. The Service Manager is still going through GM Tech System to get a solution to the problem.

    Ed
  • I've tried in several discussions to get feedback from others concerning one side of the bed being lower than the other. My 2001 2500HD E.C. S.B. is 1" lower in the left rear than the right. The front end is level. Anyone else with this problem, and is there a known fix?
  • I had previously reported that I would pass on the Chevrolet part numbers that will fix your hard closing problem in cold or cool weather of the rear doors on the ext cabs Silverado.

    #15057687 Latch, #15057688 Latch, #15063698 Striker. The Chevrolet TSB for this problem is 00-08-64-016 Located in section 08 under Body & Accessories.

    Both right and left door are affected by this TSB.

    Up till a week ago Chevrolet totally denied any knowledge of a door closing problem. In one week they have manufactured parts and written the TSB. Amazing!!!

    Good luck with your vehicles.
  • jkeefe1jkeefe1 Posts: 21
    Thanks for the info! I'll keep you advised when and how I get mine fixed!

    ps. Did you ever find out if the Technical Bulletin I mention in my earlier message #45 would help you out in your situation?
  • fried2fried2 Posts: 13
    Thanks for the reply. The "hop" or jiggle I feel is in my back via the lumbar support. Nothing in the steering. I probably won't whine about this one unless it gets worse. I noticed on the GM Truck Lemon site that in the past there may have been some attempts to reflash some of computerized control components to address the engine shake. Know anything about this?
  • serrodserrod Posts: 2
    I have a 98 chev crew cab K3500. At slow speeds in rain or fog the rear brakes lock up. The front brakes appear to not function at all when this happens. Rear shoes and drums have been replaced. Dealer states that these aggressive brakes do this at times and also I don't have enough (any) weight in the box. I'm awaiting arbitration date. Does anyone have any history about this problem?
  • I want to know who to contact for big block chevy motors that use a dyno similar to some of the after market guys building computer chips for the ford diesel. I hope someone out there is experimenting with gas engines similar to diesels.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Is the engine shake you're talking about at idle or at 40 mph? There are two vibration issues that were discussed. The one at 40 mph is described as a driveline growl though it's more like an engine luggin. The idle shake is similar to a rough idle on some of the 5.3.

    Reprogramming for the driveline growl has worked for some and not for others. It was my opinion that the 1st through 3rd gears are fairly close with the 4th or OD being a little too far apart from 1st-3rd causing an area where engine lugging is encountered. Like driving a manual transmission in 4th gear when it should be in third. The reprogram adjusts throttle sensitivity and causes a downshift earlier than the stock program. Not sure if this answers your question.
  • I cant believe Chevrolet programmed there trucks to shift into 3rd gear after 32 MPH when temperatures outside are 32 degrees. (to improve heater performance) This programming causes me to speed in 25 MPH zones because I refuse to drive in second gear all the way to work everyday! What a Joke these 28 thousand dollar trucks are! My question is if anyone has experienced this and has heard of a re programming bulletin so I can have a NORMAL truck???
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Since I live in Houston the temperature is normally above 32 degrees, so I am not an expert on this. The program delays the shift point until the engine warms up, then it should shift normally no matter how cold the temp is outside. If your truck keeps the shift delay even after engine is at normal operating temp then you have some other problem.

    How long does it take for your truck to warm up?

    If the temp outside is 28 degrees, I am up to 185 degrees after about 3 miles. After that the shift seems normal to me.
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    One of the main reasons the transmission hold gears until the engine and transmission are warm is to keep the fluid moving at a higher rate until normal temperatures are achieved.This allows a longer transmission life.
  • RE: 454 upgrades.

    I just saw in a horse magazine that there is an upgrade for power by Banks (1800GetPower) or bankspower.com. It says they have a free test report available at the above number. Hope this helps.

    What year/how is your 454 running? We have a 2000 and we're having some problems with it. (see 2000 chevy/GMC crew cab topic).

    Chris
  • Howdy,
    I'm new to the guestbook on vibratin chevy problems, at least here anyway. We bought our new 1999 Chevy ls ext cab 4x4 and when we drove it home we noticed the vibration and figured it was wheel balance. Next time down at the dealer we told them they balanced the tires and we drove home thinking "problem solved', but no, vibration still coming thru the chasis up into the cab. I told the service techs that I was concerned the tires were out of round and may need shaved. And possibly the bearing would suffer uneccessary wear. Now at 10,000 we just returned, had the oil changed, registers half qt low on stick, they say it took 6 qts and is fine. Charged me to inspect the brakes to tell me they are ok. I again mentioned the vibrations, they just shrug and suggest going to Firestone and talking to them. I read a lot of specific info about similar problems with shaking at 65-75, me too, and buy backs and bbb and lemon laws and yet has anyone identified the solution? as say stabilizer bars, and why can they acknowledge the problem and just fix it? Is this a dangerous problem? Also I read on the Fed web site about air bags not deploying on impact in cases of crashes, I need info if anyone can share?
    Please email me at cfr48@yahoo.com I can't get a strait answer from my dealer? Preciate it Cheechnchong
  • Purchased 27 Dec, 323 miles later no oil pressure at idle. 15 psi at1500rpm. Dealer says sending unit, wrong guess--need to replace oil pump, wrong again. They ordered me a new engine. Supposedly shipped on 17 Jan--Still waiting. Ed
This discussion has been closed.