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Chevy Silverado Problems



  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    thanks for the math lesson, up till now, i never knew how old i was......
  • wpadgettwpadgett Posts: 5
    I am thinking about puchasing a 99 z71 ext. cab the truck has 55,000 miles and seems to be very clean, the main question I have is there is a noise when I accelerate from a stopped position or at a low speed. Seems to be coming from the rear of the truck. Sounds like a bushing or bearing, if anybody has had this problem or has heard anything about it I sure would appreciate some help.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Would really help us to help you if you could describe this noise. I understand that it sounds like a bushing or bearing but doing what? grinding, popping, crunching, clanging....well you get the drift....
  • wpadgettwpadgett Posts: 5
    it's kinda hard to describe but it sorta sounds like tim the tool man taylors' grunt only with a little higher pitch, I also heard this noise on a quick stop at 5mph hard braking. The dealer let me drive a 2000 model and it had the same noise only alot less noticeable. he said he took the truck to his mechanic for the noise and he couldn't find anything wrong with the drivetrain or anything else,there was fresh white lithium grease on the leaf springs, spring stops etc. I basically jumped up and down in the bed and didn't notice any noise. it doesn't make the noise in reverse only in drive and when braking, but not as loud when braking, I'm wondering about
    possible bushing noise from the stabilizer arms(between the axlehousing and frame) dont want to get involved with any drivetrain problems
  • wpadgettwpadgett Posts: 5
    I need to change the description of that sound not his grunt but more like the oouu sound that tim is also famous for.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    I still don't know that "oouu" noise, but wonder if it isn't the driveline honk. There is a fix, lubing the driveshaft splines and replacing the transfer case lubricant with GM's blue goo. Your dealer should know about this. There is a tsb out on this subject.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Is that similar to the sound that Wile E. Coyote makes? As what Quad said, the only problem that occurs on ACCELERATION and BRAKING would be the driveline clunk as described in Bulletin No.: 99-04-20-002 issued in 12/99.

    Course there was another clunk from the rear springs but it had nothing to do with forward or stopping motion but rather clunking when passing over rough surfaces caused by the rear leaf springs.
  • svoma123svoma123 Posts: 33
    of a problem with the throttle body sticking in the new 2001's? A service person at the dealer was talking about this. Said it was happening on an awful lot of them. Said you can tell if you very lightly touch the gas.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    99's and 00's have that problem and there is a TSB out for its fix
  • svoma123svoma123 Posts: 33
    I have 01 rado that is experiencing that problem, I guess I will just add that to the list of things to get fixed in the future. So far it is up to: windsheild wipers make a whinny noise, weather striping is peeling off, power seat for driver makes all kinds of noises, and now the throttle body thing. It is all just little things so I dont worry to much. I will wait to fix the seat till around the end of the warranty so I can have a new seat hopefully!!!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    how do you know the throttle body is sticking?

    What symptons are there?
  • svoma123svoma123 Posts: 33
    story. I went to get the oil change and the service person said it felt like the throttle body was sticking, and this was a common thing. Service person also said not to say they said anything. because, the mechanics hate fixing this problem. The symptom is that when you first accelerate slowly the throttle seems to slightly stick. I dont know how to better explain it. I really dont notice it, but they did. Thats good enough for me. I will just have them look at it eventually.
  • dmnsmith2dmnsmith2 Posts: 21
    I am going to be buying a new Silverado soon and notice them everytime one passes. I have noticed though, that the left daytime running light is out on about every 3 out of 10 Silverado's that I see. And these are the new body style. Anyone else know of this, and does Cheverolet? This doesnt do my "Quality concience" good? Thanks...
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    i also notice this

    after 14 months i still have both of mine working
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    I noticed this very early after the '99s came out. I drove my '99 Sierra 2 years with no problem. A Friend just had the passenger side go out on his and said the Dealer told him to make sure they are both replaced. Don't know the exact reason other than maybe the other side is due to go out anyway.
  • wight1wight1 Posts: 218
    after taking the step bars apart again this weekend, I figured it must be the rubber cab mounts - they look pretty cheap. I made sure all the step bar brackets and braces are not rubbing anywhere, greased all the points where they bolt to the frame, greased the cab mount bushings, and it still pops and clunks. The noise is now isolated to the left front, but now sounds like it could be in the front fender connection where it bolts to the bottom of the cab/frame area.

    Let me know what your dealer did and if it got rid of the noise.
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    my brother's '00 has this problem, goes in on Wednesday to repair, if the engine isn't running and you depress the accelerator, it seems fine, but with the engine running, it has a lot of resistance initially.
  • toortoor Posts: 38
    At least I'm not the only one.
    What do we need to do to get rid of the squeks and pops from the nerf bars?
    It's coming from the cab mount just as wight1 said. It's freakin' irritating.
    Someone, help me see the light.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    they haven't found the problem yet, but will give me a call when it's done. at first, the shop foreman said that on some trucks, the mounting bolt is just long enough so that when the rubber grommet compresses, the bolt actually bottoms out and makes the creaking and popping noise. after grinding the end of the bolt down the noise goes away. but as of right now, mine is stll there and they are going to continue to pursue the problem.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    i had this same problem with my '00. the throttle butterfly shaft wears to a point that allows the butterfly plate to stick inside the bore. it is going to be more noticeable with the engine running because of vacumn. on some numbered throttle bodys they are suppose to replace the whole throttle body. on some of the later models they are cleaning and readjusting the stop screw and resetting the idle. my fix has worked great so far and has actually given the engine a super smooth idle where as before it had a slight roughness at idle.
  • wight1wight1 Posts: 218
    thanks for the update. Let me know the final results. Intersting note on the bolt length. I noticed the bolts supplied with the step bar package are longer than the factory cab bolts (they'd have to be to account for the thickness of the bar mount brackets). If I remember right they are quite a bit longer than the factory bolts and could be bottoming out - I'll try the grinding routine next. That could be why mine were actually worse after I put it back together - the cab mount bolts were originally a lot looser than the torque setting recommended by Westin. when I tightened them to the correct setting, maybe they are bottoming out.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    at any rate i'll let you know as soon as i find out. i wouldn't grind em yet though, at least not until i hear from them. i'll get back to you as soon as possible, either here or i'll email ya.
  • wight1wight1 Posts: 218
    OK great. I'll hold off on grinding the bolt down, if for no other reason that its a pain in the butt to take it all apart again!

    thanks for your help on this. sharing problems and fixes like this is what I like about this forum.
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    I eliminated the burnout problem before it started by replacing both DRL's with amber bulbs since I didn't care for the white anyway.

    Ray T.
  • eric2001eric2001 Posts: 482
    How are your bars mounting? Are there side braces besides the cab mounts? Just put mine on my CC, and they only mount to the cab mounts, no squeaking or popping.

    What I am wondering, if you have these braces (other than cab mounts) and you just unbolted them to see if they were making the noise. I realize they are necessary for support, but I am hoping this will help you isolate the noise problem, or at least point you in some direction. Hope this helps.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    picked up truck this afternoon. they spent two hrs. on eliminating this noise. 1st attempt, tighten crossmember trans mount, control arms. rd. test and noise still there. 2nd attempt, replaced cab mt. bushings(rubber). rd. test and popping noise gone, creeking noise still there. took 2nd tech. riding in back seat on road test and noise traced to rear door. 3rd. attempt, ck. and lube hinges and strikers, re road test and noise gone. problem is, when pulling into the driveway of my place 5 miles away, creeking and faint popping noise is back. called foreman, and it's gonna go back first part of next week. it definately sounds like the rear door through cab flex is causing this sound and could just be in need of an adjustment. this is probably not the answer you were looking for, and neither was i. i'll keep you posted to the results, no way i'm accepting this as being fixed. the shop foreman did say that the trans cossmember was pretty loose which was of concern to him, but it obviously isn't what's causing the noises.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    thanks for the option, but i don't have bars on mine. i'm thinking it's got to be in the doors. from about 9,000 miles on, i've always heard something from the left rear door, and everything from lubing the hinges and lubing the weatherstripping has helped. but this latest set of noises tells me the doors may be in need of adjustment. probably something i'm better off doing myself, but why should i since it's still under warranty. it was also one of the early 4drs. so it is probably an issue that GM is going to have to take care of. at least the dealership is ready to stand up for me on it as it is close to being out of warranty, and the service manager told me not to worry if it goes beyond, as GM is willing to do whatever is required to remedy the problem.
  • eric2001eric2001 Posts: 482
    Are the hinges welded on? Hope you know of a good body shop. Wasn't the TSB to cut the welds on the hinges & replace or drill them so they can be mounted with screws (make them adjustable)??

    Sounds like some major bodywork... Hope it comes out looking like it was factory.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    the door alignment on both of my trucks is perfect. doors are flush with body at hinge location, hieght alignment is also spot on, so there shouldn't be a need to touch the hinges. the only thing i see in the hinges that could cause a problem is the plastic or phenolic bushing they use on the pin wearing out, but it is replaceble. the strike on the other hand is a different matter. one thing i'm noticing more now than when new is that after closing the rear door and then the front, there is an inward movement indicating that the striker for the rear door is no longer tight. it doesn't leak air or anything, but the is a visible movement. if i were to put a straight edge along the side of the two doors, you can clearly see that the fr. and rear door have a point at the strike location. it also looks fairly simple to adjust, but i prefer to let them take care of it. i will point out that i don't want them cutting on the hinges. thanks.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Posts: 387

    Thanks for the tips. I will have to get some grease and silicone and try lubing the hinges and the weatherstripping. Anything is worth a shot at this point.

This discussion has been closed.
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