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Chevy Silverado Problems

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  • fried2fried2 Posts: 13
    I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 extended cab/auto trans/2WD locking differential with about 4200 miles. I have changed the oil once at about 2800. I have a "ticking" sound when starting the truck, hot or cold engine. Within a minute or two it disappates. Sounds like a lifter? Also, was driving through a grassy field the other day, less than 10mph and the truck began "stuttering". Would not go away by shifting to a lower gear, lasted several minutes. No symptoms once back on paved road. Could not tell if the engine was missing, trans slipping, or ABS doing something funny.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    in the grassy field was it slick? SOunds like your locker engaged.

    If you were under 15-20mph then this is what could have happened
  • wight1wight1 Posts: 218
    have you put those plastic spacers in yet? Mine came in the mail yesterday. I was thinking they might work, since they look a lot like the factory spacers used on the top cab bushings. I'm also thinking about removing the brace from the bracket to the truck frame - the bracket seems pretty substantial on its own. That might stop any noise between the bracket and the brace.
  • toortoor Posts: 38
    Took my 2001 (w/ only 290miles on it) in to the dealer today to see what the creaking/popping when going in and out of driveways, or making slow turns was about.
    Took all day, and they still don't know.
    They are waiting for an answer from GM on the mainland (i'm in Hawaii). But the answer won't come till tomorrow due to the time difference.
    So my truck is just sitting at the dealer.
    Something about wanting to get measurements and specs.

    wight-I put the spacers in. I guess it makes a little difference, but w/ this other creaking sound that Im' dealing with, I really can't tell.
    I also took the braces off. I didn't feel that they were necessary, but I think I will put them back on later. It does make a little difference.
    I think you'll see as well, once you take them off, that it's probably better to leave on.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    What is the name of the dealership in Hawaii that you have your truck stuck at. Just curious as there are two others that could work on your truck other than the one you're at.
  • toortoor Posts: 38
    it's at JN right now. I bought it there about 3 weeks ago.
    I called Waipahu but they can't get me in for another two weeks.
    I heard some stories about JN. Are they true?
  • dgeddesdgeddes Posts: 10
    I to have the 6.0..At 14,000 miles had the top end cleaner done for the knock.. That silenced it for about 100 miles. Now I'm back to the diesel sound on start-up. I was told by the service mgr. that new pistons are the cure, but no definite answer from GM yet. Has anyone had this problem resolved, or are the dealers just throwing out extended warranties to cover this... Any inputs would be greatly appreciated
  • briandudebriandude Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton Ex. cab 4x4 5.3,4.10 Rearend. I was towing a 5000lb camping trailer up steep grades and experenced a (Burning Propane Smell) I didn't know what it was at the time. When I got home from the trip I noticed the paint on the rearend bubbled off. Has anyone else encounter this problem? Any solutions? I am planning to take the truck to the dealer for sevice.
  • gmonkeygmonkey Posts: 5
    Hey at least you guys got a choice I've got only Kuhio Motors here on Kaua'i. I was going to get a Sierra but I think I'll try and order a Rado with the PRO TEC box it should be worth the extra $790.
  • wight1wight1 Posts: 218
    I pull a 6500# camper with my 2500. The paint has blistered off the axle cover and it seems like its pretty hot when towing. I've never noticed any odor from it. My dealer says no, its just cheap paint, there's nothing wrong with your axle. I just ordered and received an aftermarket axle cover - its ribbed aluminum and holds about an additional quart of fluid and is supposed to dissipate heat better. I'll be putting it on this weekned. When I pull the old cover off, I plan to look everything over real good inside to see if there is any sign of overheating.
  • schwebschweb Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 1/2 ton extended cab and I am starting to have problems with the 4 wheel drive on it. When I put it into 4 wheel and try to pull out, it hesitates for about 10 seconds before it moves. And I know that 4 wheel drives tend to turn harder than normal 2 wheel drive, but unless I keep the gas pedal down to the floor, it will stop turning. I had it in the dealership once and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Any ideas?
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    Do you have the autotrac electronic transfer case, or the handle on the floor?

    It helps to be rolling forward in "D" at 1 mph when you select 4HI. If you are trying to select 4LO, you have to be stopped, in "N", with parking brake set, I believe.

    If you have difficulty turning the steering wheel in 4wd, while that's normal it's also a sign that you are on a high traction surface. 4wd is a part-time system meant for slippery surfaces, snow, ice, sand, mud etc.

    Some people turn 4HI on in the winter, and don't turn it off again until spring, but this just causes accelerated wear on the driveline.
  • schwebschweb Posts: 3
    I have the handle on the floor. I've never put the truck in 4low. I haven't had to use that one yet. And I don't keep it in 4HI all winter. I only put it in when I need it.
  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    I also have the 4wd shifter on the floor, and all seems to work as I expect it too.

    Could you describe the surface you are driving on when you have difficulty? Is is asphalt just before pulling onto loose dirt, or is it a grassy field or??

    And what do you mean by 'it will stop turning'. Are you talking about the wheels turning (moving straight forward), or is the steering wheel cranked to one side, and the truck stops tuning the turn you are trying to make?

    If you are on a high traction surface (could be dirt, grass or off road on big rocks) and you turn the steering wheel, the system tends to bind up. That is caused by the front wheels wanting to turn a tighter turn than the rears. That means the fronts are traveling a shorter distance than the rears, but they are forced to turn at the same speed by the locked transfer case. So the system binds up until something slips (tire spins) or breaks (U-joint or axle). Unless a tire can spin, you will find it very hard to move.

    If you are trying to go straight, it should be no problem, even on asphalt or concrete, for a short distance.

    Mike L
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Seems like all three dealerships are tied up. JN has been sending people over to Cutter, especially people who haven't bought their truck from JN. Tells you something about them. I've had my own war stories with JN but that's for another day. So Servco had a two week backlog? Hehe, so does Cutter. Unless push comes to shove I'll usually wait the two weeks. Funny thing though, I have to wait two weeks for an appoinment for Cutter to send my truck to an upholtery shop to work on my seat. Does that make sense? Didn't think so.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I think ordering would be your best bet. I would order one the next time around. And not from a dealer in Hawaii. Seems most people posting are buying their trucks at or around invoice...which is pretty much impossible here especially with dealers having that additional dealer markup of around $5-$6K above MSRP.

    I was interested in a 1500HD and a 2500HD but with what they offered for a trade, negotiations lasted only 10 minutes......
  • toortoor Posts: 38
    First of all, my truck is done.
    JN called this morning and said that they lubed everything and retorqued all bolts.
    Squeak/cracking is apparently gone. But I'll be the judge of that when I go pick it up.

    Second, I got my 1500 Ext cab for 500 over invoice. I looked at the F150 at Cutter and McKenna, the tundra at Toyota City, and the Rado at JN. I kept going from one to the other w/ better prices. And finally JN offered the best.
    Had the F150 SuperCab for $25000. Tundra for about $27000.

    GOod luck w/ your seat.
    Did you get your truck from cutter?
  • schwebschweb Posts: 3
    THe surface has either been grass or loose dirt. What I mean by it stops turning is when I take my foot off of the gas and its in 4wheel drive, the truck stops immediately, no matter if I'm going straight or in a turn. The thing is that this is the first 4 wheel drive I've owned and I'm not sure what to expect from it.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    That's not right. Sounds like something's binding up real bad.
    -- Don
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    That's where I got mine. They've been pretty good about warranty issues, especially when I walk in with all the required TSB's. Researched the seat a little. Seems like they are using either no glue or the wrong glue....we will see.
  • toortoor Posts: 38
    where do you get all of your TSB's from?
  • bucksportbucksport Posts: 5
    Greetings - Took delivery of 01 Silverado ext cab 4x4, 6.5 box, yesterday. It now has 150 miles on it. Made mistake of not taking truck out on the freeway during test drive. Wife drove it home and said it shook at avery slight bump. I Checked air in tires when she got home. 47 psi in each tire. (How could dealer let this get by?) I let it out to 35. She drove it 100 miles today and its no better. I drove it this evening and it shakes/bounces at every bump in pavement. Anyone had similar problem? Any suggestions? I kind of rule out alignment and wheel doesnt feel like tires are out of bal but they might be/ Its to the dealer tomorow AM. Regards, Buck
  • toortoor Posts: 38
    where do you get all of your TSB's from?
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    is it safe to assume that this bouncy ride occurs only on the freeway? if it is, do the freeways you are driving on have the expansion joints? if so, you are not alone. a lot of our freeways in CA are cement w/expansion joints. if you could lay a striaght edge from one joint to the next, you'd see light in the middle. there are a few places that i will go around cuz the trucks have beat the daylights out of the cement slabs, and make my truck ride like a friggin pogo stick. at least now, Cal-Trans has started resurfacing our cement freeways with asphalt. super smooth ride now.
  • bucksportbucksport Posts: 5
    This occurs on all the roads at variying speeds.
    Buck
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    is that they have to be resurfaced too often. It's the wheelbase that's the cause of the problem. Just a little too long and the truck's spring suspension...this is one that the dealer will say..."they all do that" and he won't be lying.


    Besides that, the stock shocks are pretty much worthless...and if you have the firestone or general tires, that's another source as these tires are really a POS.


    toor


    You can get some of the TSB's here:

    http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/gmsi.html


    and PCM updates here:


    http://calid.gm.com/vci/

  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    a -- what oby just said
    b -- 1500 or 2500? Z-71 or what?
    -- Don
  • toortoor Posts: 38
    Ok. My creaking/popping rear was fixed by the dealer over the past two days, but today when I was washing my rado this evening, I noticed that the black rear bumper cover was all scratched up.
    Apparently, the mechanic/technician, took off my tailgate and bumper and did somthing under there too. I called the service dept, but since I didn't catch it while at the shop, they said there is no way to prove it was them.
    Moral of the story........check you car/truck good before leaving the shop.

    Now, I need to know....is it easy to pop off that black plastic cover that is on top of the metal rear bumper?? I took a look under and it looks like it snaps in. Am I right??
    hopefully I can get one online for a reasonable price and just pop the scratched one off and put the new one on.
    I don't need to buy a whole new rear bumper do I?
    I hope they just sell the black plastic cover.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    while under there did you notice any rust? lots of people were reporting rust on the inside of the bumpers. If no one answers the question on the rubber part of the bumper, I could look it up in the shop manual.

    You may want to try gmpartsdirect.com for the rubber part of the bumper. Do not be misled though cause this is a regular dealer who sells at retail - 25% and isn't GM selling parts direct to the end user. If you can't find the part or the part no. just fill out the customer request form with the description of the part and the truck and they will get back to you on the part no.
  • bucksportbucksport Posts: 5
    Thanks for responses. This is a 1500 with General tires. Buck
This discussion has been closed.