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Chevy Silverado Problems

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Comments

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    your questions have been asked since the beginning of the silverado new style. Haven't seen anyone answer it other than no and no.
  • smith53smith53 Posts: 72
    do you know if there is a tsb for the silverado squeal when turning left? if not do you know what parts need to be replaced to solve this problem? dealer claims no cure.
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    2001 Ex cab Z71. Last night I installed nerf bars. The brackets for the bars fit on the front and rear (skipped the middle, didn't touch) cab bolts right under the metal/rubber cup piece. The factory cab bolts were replaced with kit furnished ones, same length and diameter, but threaded only at the end two inches, not all the way down the shank like the factory bolt. I torqued the bolts to 65 ft-lbs per the instructions and everything went on like it was supposed to.

    Today, I started to get groans and clunk-like noises in the cab when traveling over bumps at low speeds (30 and below). I sounds (from the inside) just like something on the suspension is bouncing around, but that system wasn't touched. At higher speeeds, it feels like a LOT more of the road and engine vibrations are making it to my feet through the floorboards. Something ain't right. The nerfs are firm and in the correct position, but these noises are not good.

    Any suggestions? Is 65 ft-lbs of torque too much...did I overtighten the cab bolts and outdo the isolation pads? I'm at a loss to understand this one.
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Posts: 255
    when I installed my Westin nerf bars last year, it too made noises on warm days. Kind of a creak or groan. The noises would come and go with temperature. After driving this past winter no noises now that weather has warmed up here in New England. Now watch, soon as I said that it will start, haha. Try checking the torque again. Loosen the bolts and re-torque. Check the middle bolts as mine were looser than 65 lbs. Others have reported the same.

    matthew
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    should have had the accessory place install them i have had zero problems with mine haha

    (im just messing with you guys)

    Hope you can get it worked out

    Ryan
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I have the same problem with mine made by Luverne. If you look at the GM accessories nerf bars you will note that they bolt to the frame, not the body mounts. The only problem I see is that the GM units are chromed steel, not stainless.

    One thing you might try is to remove the isolation bushing and lube it with silicon grease. Then re-install and see if that helps. Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem.

    Jim
  • wilmacwilmac Posts: 27
    I have Luverne on my 01 Z-71 and had noise problems. They mount to front and rear cab bolts and have a rear brace that attaches to the frame on the rear. What was causing the noise was the rear brace not staying tight where it bolts to the frame. No lock washers. Lock washers added and problem is fixed. Wilson
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    Thanks for the inputs. It sounds more and more like rubber making noise under compression. Grease might help it, but I'm grease-illiterate. Does silicone grease differ greatly from other varieties, such as moly?

    Anothe question. I have the brackets for my nerfs installed right at the head of the cab bolt, below the plate portion of the isolation bushing. I wonder if moving the bracket above that bushing, right up against the frame, would alleviate any extras stresses on the the bushing. Not sure it fits. How did your brackets fit in? Below or above the bushing?
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    Try www.truckautoaccessories.com ,they have an auto-headlight overide switch kit.
    -- Don
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Posts: 255
    silicone where rubber is concerned. Something like Dow 111 will work fine and stay where it is put. It also doubles as dielectric compound, caliper assembly lube...etc

    matthew
  • bigjohn9bigjohn9 Posts: 3
    Just an update....
    My 2001 Silverado intermittently sticks in third gear. I have to manually shift it into nuetral, then back to drive to get it to drop in to drive. The mechanic working on my truck finally found a document pointing to the problem. I don't think it was a TSB, but I'll find out what the heck it was and post it this week. Anyway, it's related to the ignition. That might also solve the problem of my airbag light not shutting off after I start the truck. Again, an
    intermiitent problem (How come intermittent problems only occur when the owner is driving the damn thing....they never happen when the mechanic is driving it?).
    The third and last problem is a tinny rattle at 35-40 MPH from underneath. Sounds like it is just under the passenger seat. I haven't crawled underneath this thing yet. Where's the catalytic converter located? I had the same problem on an old LTD I drove. Turned out to be a loose heat shield around the exhaust.
    Actually, I have a fourth problem...the most frustrating one; dealer indifference. If anyone finds a solution to that one, lemme know. I can make you rich.

    John
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    My dad's '01 started having a rattle under the truck at about that same speed. Wouldn't happen if he was accelerating normally to higher speeds, but if he let off the gas around 35-40 mph and let the tranny shift into fourth, and then try to accelerate gently again, we'd hear a noticable tinny rattle underneath. Not sure if he's got it fixed yet. Will ask.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    or is it the engine lugging? Course could be the heat shield for the exhaust but I thought that problem was only on Fords. lol
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    Definite rattle on my dad's truck...not sure who you were talking to though.
  • ndared1ndared1 Posts: 21
    Well folks haven't been on for awhile no problems with my 01, HD, Xcab, Lbox, 8.1L, ally, 4.10.
    I have a victory red truck love it. However off road at my ranch in New Mex I encounter many gravel areas and as a result have had poor success with the paint. It is chipped everywhere more than my previous truck. The windshield also has 7 chipshots already (owned 6 months). I am happy overall with vehicle however these two items are worth noting. The paint is chipped by the lightest of gravel and the windshield is cracked by what I think is the smallest of stones. Hell I wouldn't be surprised if these big old bugs wouldn't crack it. Off to see insurance man and get it replaced. I'm a little disappointed in the paint durability, it cannot be more than .001" thick.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I was talking to you....

    ndared1

    Had the sides of my truck repainted under warranty cause the paint had some dust, orange peel, and was almost transparent on some parts of the quarter panel. Body shop did an excellent job...way better than the factory....especially on that famous GM orangepeel.
  • hdriderhdrider Posts: 49
    I have a 93 6.5L TD 4x4 5spd that is fixin' to be replaced by a new 2500HD, however, before I can sell this thing, I need to fix a problem... (Actually, several problems, but this is the worst.)

    Every now and then, after I park, it won't start. All console gauge indications look like I just didn't have the clutch all the way in (i.e. battery needle swings, message lights blink, etc.) I've tried re-pressing the clutch to the floor, turning the ignition off then on, and just letting it sit. Nothing. The starter was replaced and that didn't help. A dealer installed ignition kill switch was removed and that didn't help. Batteries and cables replaced, nada. The only thing that works is getting the truck rolling and putting it in gear. Not popping the clutch to start, just putting it in gear. That seems to jar whatever the problem is loose and then it starts. I'm thinking it might be a flat spot on the gear in the transmission, but not sure. Any ideas?
    Thanks!
    Dave
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    On my 2K 2500/6.0L the entire exhaust system had to be replaced at 8K miles. The 6.0 uses a true dual exhaust back to the muffler, with two converters. One of the converters bolts up to the header pipe, the other is clamped to one of the muffler input pipes. Where the two pipes clamp together, the id and od had a significant mis-match and so the whole thing was removed and replaced under warranty. No more rattle.

    Jim
  • jpfltawjpfltaw Posts: 43
    The paint on my 00 rado is the worst I have ever seen, the door jams all around are barely covered. The truck is Indigo Blue, but inside the door frames on the edges are green. I spotted it in the bed when it was picked up, but that was a no issue since it went straight to the Line X shop. A wood chip hit the tailgate and left chip out off the paint to the primer. A 2x4 brushed the side and left a 2 in. scratch on the rear quarter panel. The paint on the 99 rado held up better than this 00 rado. Too bad because I sold back the 99 to GM ( vibra rado ), had it for 10 months and not a ding or scratch any where. Then got the 00 rado and every time you look at it or wash it there be another S C R A T C H !!!!! The paint is tooooooo thin, it all adds up to more profit to the General. Save a gallon of paint and charge the consumer another thousandbucks. Sewell Chevrolet N.O.LA. SUCKS !!
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