Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Silverado Problems

1246772

Comments

  • john294john294 Posts: 56
    that is what is killing GM with me, they try to bull**** you into thinking that only one class of trk has a problem when in reality it is a product defect across the board,has anyone givin you a better outlook than ''youll just have to live with it''.Are you having your trk deprogramed?Is it fine in 3rd gear?I also have to depress gas pedal to floor to make it downshift to get up an incline.My automatic nissan pathfinder w/V6 glides up inclines without hesitation and doesnt run under 2k rpms in ''drive''......
  • mpant1mpant1 Posts: 1
    Just as in message #41, my 2000 silverado makes a ratteling sound at slow speed when turning right. I sounds like plastic ratteling. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Does anyone have any idea what it could be?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    From what I've noticed, an increase in HP somewhat cures the "lugging" effect. Prior to upgrading the engine with boltons, I had the engine lugging while in OD. After the boltons, it has disappeared. Not to say that everyone should take this route, just that it seems to be one solution.

    '00 Silverado xcab 5.3 3.73

    Now, if I can only get rear windows that don't leak air. Had the new ones installed and worked fine for a couple of weeks until I noticed a substantial amount of wind and road noise. Checked the passenger side rear window and have a seperation of weather stripping from the window itself. Was tempted to use silicone, but won't let GM off the hook that easily.
  • jed1894jed1894 Posts: 337
    You problem sounds exactly what my truck is doing. After I had the updates, and noticed the poor shifting/lagging, etc. I called back and asked if I could reverse the program--the reply was "no" per GM guidelines. I don't know if he was BS'ing, but he said the new program covered alot of other items and he could not go back and change. He may be correct, but GM's track record on being honest is not high. I should have not touched the program, but I was hard headed and thought the new program would help the tranny clank.

    John
  • jed1894jed1894 Posts: 337
    I know you've checked this but............ after replacing my rear windows, the wind noise was still there. So I decided to fix the problem myself......... I had the wife drive me down the road at about 75 and I rode in the back seat (I know----not a smart move----I had to have a few cold ones before I allowed her to drive that fast in my truck and me in the back seat). Anyway, the wind noise was coming from the 3rd door joint/jam--it was not the rear window. I haven't figured how to fix the problem yet.....I'm thinking it could be coming from the rain deflectors/guards over the window. ...... What you think?

    John
  • I think you will find that the wind noise is not coming from around the rear windows, but at the point where the rear of the front door meets the front edge of the rear door. Listen up by the plastic interior trim where the upper latch is. Then look at the seals. Not much there to stop the noise transfer. It is not actual wind noise but rather noise being carried through the rubber.
    A fix would be nice.
  • john294john294 Posts: 56
    what parts are they?and at what cost? are they ''do it yourself add ons''?,U think they would have em for v6?how much of an increase you think you got?Where do you get them (on-line supplier)??????Thanks So many questions so little money lol.....
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Yes, it could be from between the doors also. However, in my case, I have to repair the window cause it's kind of unsecured right now. If you press from the inside on the bottom of the window, you can push the bottom half of the window a 1/2" out and if I really leaned on it....they have ordered another window. When it comes in and installed, I'll take a test drive with the shop foreman who is all familiar with my truck and we will see. What I've also noticed is that when driving on the freeway, I've tucked the mirrors in and it reduced the wind noise substantially. It may be a combo of the wind deflectors and mirrors.

    john294

    Most of the performance bolt ons that I've seen is for the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0. I haven't seen any for the 4.3. I'll do some quick searching and see what I turn up. What will probably happen, I'm just guessing, is that you may have to modify bolt ons for the S10 as I've seen quite a few for them with the 4.3.

    My engine mods:
    Granatelli MAF $300 10HP
    Airaid $275 8HP
    Torque Master Plugs $95 6 HP
    Magnecor Racing Wires $115 5HP
    JBA headers $500 15 HP
    Hypertech III Performance Programmer $300 10HP
    160 degree thermostat $45 2HP
    Power Vault Catback system $525 20HP

    Suspension:

    Roadmaster Active Suspension $200
    Edlebrock Shocks $300
    Velvet ride shackles $150
    Michelin LTX M/S 275/70R16 $300

    Appearance:

    Pace Edward Rolltop Tonneau $700
    Smitty Bilt nerfs $300
    Mudflaps $75
    Putco Stainless Steel tailgate cover and bedcaps $175
    Lund Interceptor bugguard $40
    Billet Chevy bowtie $40
    Limo tint quarter windows and rear windows
    35% tint driver and passenger windows.

    As far as performance increase, my best guess without dyno is 40HP

    Dean
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    ticking noise occurs in both 2wd and 4wd V6s? I have driven several 4.3L GM V6 2wd pickups and have not experienced this problem. Nobody I know with the 2wd V6s has complained about this. I wonder if it is something other than the engine ticking, like something to do with the transfer case?
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    My wind noise was from the body mounted door trim. It had slipped down about two inches. I glued it in place with 3M trim cement.
    My rough idle was from defective platinum tipped plugs. Dealer replaced 7 & 8 plugs at 5K and the rough idle was totally gone and engine felt more powerful. The rough idle is back at 9K, and I will replace all of them with NGK plugs soon as weather warms up a bit.
  • k0hbk0hb Posts: 89
    > Magnecor Racing Wires $115 5HP

    There's a sucker born every minute!
  • john294john294 Posts: 56
    no I havent, did chat with a 2wdr V6 owner that said he had no lugging-ticking, as to my situation, it is only lugging at slight inclines in drive(in 3rd it runs fine), besides that theres are no other problems-noises yet, 11k so far.............. Obyone thats a heck of a list, I havent thought of doing that much to a trk ,but I have gone all out with a motorcycle(harley) but thats a different topic,,,,,, thanks for the input.....
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    have you priced the stock wires yet? did you know that in some cases, they're the cause of pinging?
    did you also know that the stock wires have developed twice the resistance as new in as little as 7,000 miles? the sucker is you, especially if you buy the stock wires over again. LOL
    also, i'v upgraded my stereo system and found that the magnecors eliminated the final tidbit of interference, not to mention that the slight cackling i was hearing is totally eliminated.
    might want to think about what you're spewing off about before you spew.

    -
    red
  • dj2000dj2000 Posts: 3
    How do you like the LTX M/S TIRES? I have heard good reports about them . What type did you have before , and were they the originals ?
    I have the Firestone P265x75R16 with 5000 miles , and they are really noisy . Did you get a trade in for the old ones . You got a good price at $300.

    Dan
  • hunter98hunter98 Posts: 273
    The LTX M/S is a good quiet highway tire. Ok for moderate snow on plowed streets and such. Not an all terrain tire in the least or a deep snow tire. I have the 265x75R16 Michelin LTX AT which is a great tire and is tons more agressive than the M/S. That tire would have left me stuck several times. The tire size of 265 isn't best for snow, a 235x85 or a 255x85 would be better in snow in the AT pattern.

    Best of luck

    Hunter
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Love the LTX M/S. Long story on the tires. Went throught 3 sets (12 tires) of the General 660AS due to extreme wear in about a 1000 miles on each. Found out later that there was a hush hush recall on them. GM gave me a trade in of $25 each. I checked online and found retail to be $35 each. Cheap tires? Perhaps. Prior to mounting my fourth set, I asked the GM zone rep about a swap out, seeing that there seemed to be no end...they agreed. Got the tires at dealer cost, had a friend check for $92 a piece less the $25 with mounting and balancing courtesy of GM even though they subcontracted it out. They wanted no part of anything to do with the tires after agreeing to the swap out. LOL!! My original tire size was 255/70R16 and the new size is 275/70R16 so for me it was a great deal. On my Denali, I swapped the Firestone Firehawks out with GM approval. I guess the zone rep remembers my name. It was a better deal as I got $89 each for the Firestones and paid $92 for the Michelin. Dealer, not wanting to nickel and dime said forget the difference. So I went from the 265/70R16 Firestone to the 275/70R16 Michelin. The reasoning was that there was an excessive resonance at low speeds (25-35 mph) where the tires would feel like they were bouncing. Balancing 3 times didn't help even once with the Hunter balancer. They are great riding, handling, wet weather, and are real quiet. The responsiveness in the steering is like night and day. BTW, hasn't snowed in my parts for over 200,000 years.
  • dj2000dj2000 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the fast comeback about the tires . I'm leaning toward the M/S , we don't have very much snow here , and I want the quieter ride . Also , want to get these P series off , and get the LT TYPE .Thanks hunter for your input also .This is a great site , a lot of good information .I only hope I can find a dealer who will take the Firestones as a trade in allowance .
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Here is a tsb regarding reprogramming with same settings. What's interesting about it is the part about what the truck "learns" over time.

    Info - PCM Reprogramming #99-06-04-053
    Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reprogramming (Do Not Reprogram Using The Same Download Files As Those Already Present In The Control Module)
    1990-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Reprogramable PCM

    It is strongly recommended to NOT reinstall the same software and/or calibration download file(s) into the powertrain control module as those that are already present in the PCM. There is no technical reason that the download files inside the PCM would ever become corrupted after the control module had previously been successfully programmed. A P0601 (Control Module Read Only Memory) Diagnostic Trouble Code would set in memory and the MIL would be illuminated if the controller memory became corrupted.

    The Techline Information System 2000 (TIS 2000) PC, combined with vehicle information gained through the Tech 2, can determine when an attempt to reprogram a PCM using the same download files (as those already in the control module) is being requested. If this is attempted, the TIS 2000 PC currently displays the following message:

    NOTICE
    THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL MODULE. PROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILES IS NOT AN EFFECTIVE REPAIR. SELECT ( YES ) TO CONTINUE PROGRAMMING THE CONTROL MODULE, OR ( NO ) TO CANCEL.

    Effective in the first quarter of 2000, the TIS 2000 PC will indicate:

    Important
    THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS ALREADY THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL MODULE. REPROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILE IS NOT ALLOWED.

    Certain learned values, such as: (but not limited to)

    fuel trim (previously known as block learn memory),
    IAC learned position in various park/neutral and air conditioning on/off combinations,
    certain OBDII diagnostic thresholds,
    automatic transmission shift adapts
    will revert back to their unlearned starting point values after a reprogramming event occurs.

    It is feasible that the engine or transmission might temporarily operate differently after a reprogramming event, until these values are re-learned. Relearning occurs while operating the vehicle through normal driving routines. If the same download files are simply reinstalled, any changes noticed in engine operation will likely disappear in a short amount of time and/or driving distance.

    Reprogramming the control module with the same download files that already exist in the module will only accomplish a warranty claim for a non-effective repair, and a likely comeback.

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • john294john294 Posts: 56
    The service manager, (after I showed him all the info. from your post pass and present on lugging) has told me that the trans reprograming cannot be done on a V6 he states it is only for V8s, do you agree??? He always seems to be not interested and gives me the ''you bought it your stuck with it'' vibes.......
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Have you been to this website?

    http://calid.gm.com/vci/

    Enter your VIN. It should show you a listing of available programming update and current programming for your truck. If there are new one's available for driveline growl or transmission updates, you can print and show it to the service manager. I would think there would be. Maybe jed1894 could shed more light on the subject as I believe that he had a V6 also. I would definitely check the site out.
  • john294john294 Posts: 56
    checked into it, it states, All 96 and later vehicles can be reprogrammed except for medium duty trucks. It did have a cal.history for trans part#16259121 CVN=n/a bulletin#=n/a trans calibration for my Vin #.....thanks....
  • Boy, I've been looking for mud flaps for a while now and even ordered and paid for them at the dealer 6 months ago. They have to order them 6 pairs each front and back, or else track them down at another dealer. No luck so far.

    I saw your post #99, and are yours molded or flat rubber? If they are rubber, where did you get them and will they fit on a 2K Silver ado Z71 with wheel flares?
    Thanks, Roger
  • k0hbk0hb Posts: 89
    I bought some molded ones from "TruxStor" -- can't recall the brandname now, but they're standing up OK to Minnesota snow and slop.

    Hans
  • Oby, I've been looking for mud flaps for a while now and even ordered and paid for them at the dealer 6 months ago. They have to order them 6 pairs each front and back, or else track them down at another dealer. No luck so far.

    I saw your post #99, and are yours molded or flat rubber? If they are rubber, where did you get them and will they fit on a 2K Silverado Z71 with wheel flares?
    Thanks, Roger

    P.S. I erroneously spell checked my post #113. R
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Are these what you're looking for?

    image

    image

    Made by Husky
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Don't remember what parts store they came from. BTW, the picture is Ryan's truck with the wheelflares and mudflaps....does anyone remember? Could always ask him at his site...
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Try this site. I bought the rubber ones, but then I don't have the fender flares. They do carry the one's for the fenderflares. Good luck...


    http://www.premiermotoring.net/cgi-bin/webc.exe/st_main.html?catid=59&sid=5iRDJe01c59qDoD

  • jed1894jed1894 Posts: 337
    I have no experience with V6 reprogamming....My V6 was a 91 model (good old days).

    Obyone....thanks for info......

    JOhn
  • for the quick feedback guys! The pictures and links were helpful.

    I originally ordered OEM flat,white bowtie mudflaps from the dealer and am still trying to track them down if I can. I like the standard look and the flexibility of the flat flap.
  • As I have gathered through reading here, there are several distinct problems which have plagued the 1500 trucks since their redesign two years ago.
    1) front end vibration - apparently corrected on the '01 production run by adding extra bracing around the front end
    2) steering shaft - any '01's experiencing this one?
    3) wind noise - whether caused by lack of weatherstripping around extended cab doors, poor fit of extended cab doors OR thin, poor fitting glass in extended cab doors, have any/all of these problems been corrected on the production line yet?
This discussion has been closed.