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Chevy Silverado Problems

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    If you have a 500# load in the bed, the brakes will work without a hitch...usually acts sensitive with the bed empty.

    swilcox1

    I'm curious about your statement...

    "They rehoned cylinders, put in new pistons one size bigger, and put it all back together."

    Where did they find these "one size bigger" pistons?
  • I don't know where the pistons came from, but they are actually itemized on the invoice. For some odd reason the block was sent to Baker, CA for the clean-out bore. Baker is a very small desert town about 2.5 hours from here, and as we are in the Las Vegas valley, I don't understand why there were no local subcontractors in a city of 1.5 million that could handle this chore. They had my truck for a whole month, and though I was given a small rental car free of charge, the Chevy is my work truck and we had a tough time keeping jobs stocked (construction) without it.

    Is there a part number for this mysterious PCV valve that seems to solve the oil consumption problem?
  • hi new to the board I have a 00 5.3 I also have the cold start knock 10-30 sec. first start of the day is this the problem knock or just lifters clattering (like my 74 ford with 200k) or wrist pin noise dealer is fighting documenting it simply saying its normal.

    Also has anyone else got a noise seems like from the left side front (you don't really hear it from the pasenger seat) that Sounds like light pinging at about 1400-2000 rpm worst when engine is under load such as uphill its faint sometimes like on flat ground but always there. Also it stops the second you let off the gas.

    Dealer cant hear it of course says its running normal even after I rode with the tech and he did hear it kept it all day and 'unable to duplicate customer concern' this noise just started about 2k miles ago about when cold start knock/tap/tick or whatever started.

    Im at about 35500 miles Gm line no help and Ive been in 4 times at 2 different dealers any help would be great thanks

    To obyone thanks for tsb info (read prev. posts) that got my doors and spring insulators fixed how cand I tell if the 'vin breakpoint' on the steering rack tsb don't know the number applies to my truck
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    you might try this number; 1-800-955-5100.
    it's the BBB, and the results may amaze you. my truck at the same mileage recieved an extended warranty from GM.
  • What kind of problems did you have? I contacted them bbb and chevy offered an 4/60 powertrain and they want me to try a new dealer I'm getting tired of leaving my truck all the time. They (gm)say that the service dept calls my problem intermittent and slight so this is the only offer they're (gm) going to make. If I press this how will it proceed I'm not sure if I can win at arbitration I simply want the 6/100 warranty I feel that is the minimum life you should expect out of any new car ont the road even a hyundai let alone a 27k truck. 2000 silv. 5.3 ls nice truck I'm just tired of getting the "you're an idiot and wasting my time" look from the service writers. dealers singh chev. in riverside and moval. chevy in moreno valley
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Engine - Oil Consumption Guidelines

    File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

    Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-011

    Date: March, 2001

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines

    Models:All 1996-2001 Passenger Cars and Gasoline Powered Light Duty Trucks Under 8500 LB GVW


    This bulletin is being revised to add Model Years 2000 and 2001. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 76-60-04A (Section 6 - Engine).

    All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the power stroke, part of this oil layer is consumed in the combustion process. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines.

    Oil Consumption

    The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi). This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition.

    Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption.

    Gasket and External Leaks

    Inspect the oil pan and engine covers for leakage due to over-tightened, damaged, or out of place gaskets. Inspect oil lines and fittings for signs of leakage.

    Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)

    Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked.

    Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level

    The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked.

    Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change

    Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality.

    High Speed or High RPM Driving

    Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected.

    Towing or Heavy Usage

    Towing a trailer will increase oil consumption and may cause oil consumption to fall below the normal accepted rate referenced in this bulletin for an unloaded vehicle in a personal use application. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption.

    Crankcase Ventilation System

    Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Incorrect PCV valves, blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use.

    Oil Dilution (Fuel and Water)

    On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, unburned fuel and condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture and fuel, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption.

    Engine Temperature

    If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order.

    Engine Wear

    Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption.

    Measurement of Oil Consumption

    Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).

    1. Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary.

    2. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual).

    3. Park the vehicle on a level surface.

    4. Wait at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase.

    5. Verify that the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick, and that the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner's Manual.

    6. Record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin.

    7. Ask the customer to verify the oil level, each time the vehicle is fueled, following steps 1-6 and return the vehicle to the dealership if the oil level is found at or below the add mark, 0.946 liter (1 qt) low. If the oil level remains above the add mark, the customer should continue to operate the vehicle and verify the engine oil level until 3200 km (2000 mi) has accumulated before returning to the dealership for a final evaluation.

    8. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.

    Oil Economy Test - Data Sheet
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    PCV GM part no. 25179136
    GM list: $5.39
    GMpartsdirect: $2.69 +s/h

    Do you have a part number for these "one sized bigger pistons"? Curios minds want to know....
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    my complaint is against the obvious loose fit in the connecting rods. not that they knock under load, but i'm accustomed to not hearing the lower end rattle as it does. GM's first offer to me was a 5/75K, but i pushed for at least a 5/100K. the main thing that helped in my case was the great relations i have with my service manager at the dealership i buy from, and the fact that i have made 4 purchases within a 2 year period. he backed my claim, and the rest is history. you could push for the 5/100K, or state your feelings about pursuing the buyback option. they don't like that one at all......LOL
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    why those who have experienced problems with their Silverados, traded/sold/lemoned them in and then went out and bought another one. I am not flaming anyone, I just want to understand.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    You obviously have an opinion. I've read what you think of the Chevy/GMC trucks. So what's the point of your post? What is it that you need to understand? Truck owners own trucks, buy trucks, drive trucks. When Toyota makes a full sized truck without inflated specifications for towing and hauling, maybe some of the full sized owners will consider it. Until then, it's pretty obvious that the trucks WORK for what they are needed to do....

    BTW, have you figured what the purpose of the Tundra is? Visit tundrasolutions.com yet?
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    i liked the last post before the one you edited. LOL
  • "According to posts, the Tundra onboard computer requires an extra second to complete diagnostics and start the ignition sequence. This is normal and will require owners to keep the key in the start position for a little bit longer than most people are used to. "

    you think its pathetic to call piston slap normal, its normal for toyotas to need three cranks to start lol
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    "Until then, it's pretty obvious that the trucks WORK for what they are needed to do...."

    How well has your truck worked for the four months it spent in the shop. GEEZ - some people never learn!
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    How can you possibly confuse rod knock with piston slap?
    -- Don
  • Finally ,the truck from he** is going away, see my post at post your lemons here if you dare. I will never own a 8.1 again , on saturday i picked up a 2002 with 6.0 2500hd what a pleasure to drive a truck that likes to stay running
  • how many of the trucks sold are really work trucks? i am sure it is a small number unless you consider using your truck to commute to your job as work. work truck is a term used mighty loosely in this topic and work is a four letter word that makes all the blood drain from my wifes face when she hears it.
  • bamatundra: A toy tundra as a work truck make me laugh. I use my 2001-2500HD 4x4 as a work truck everyday & plowsnow with it too. My neighbor has a toy & put a plow on it & after one yr. it is a piece of junk, 3 different dealers & not one can make it stay to gather. He's now trying to get them to buy the tonka toy back so he can buy a real truck (he's own words). Dealers said he needs to buy a FULL size, humm what? dealers telling you that Tundra not FULL size. The whole problem now with TRUCKS is people want to use them as a second car & weekend truck. They think it should be a car not a TRUCK. He!! we use to hose out the Truck on the inside, now they have all the frills. You now have to order a work truck if you want a TRUCK not a toy truck.
  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    My Silverado is not a work truck, it is a play truck. I have 52,000 miles on a combination of two Silverado's and 48,000 miles have been carrying a 2000lb load.

    A friend of mine has a Tundra and tried to tell me how his Tundra was better than my Silverado. When he finally figured out that his Tundra couldn't carry the load that I've carried troublefree for 48K, he quieted down. When he discovered I get the same gas mileage loaded that he gets empty, he shut up.

    Alot of noise, but nothing to back up the noise.

    Mike L
  • First time in town hall and first time posting, so forgive me if this has already been addressed. Has anyone else had problems with the auto transmission in their 2001 Silverado? I had 16K on mine and had to have the whole transmission overhauled. This truck has been treated like a baby, no towing, no fast starts, a true old man's truck.
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    2/3 of those who buy trucks get them for regular day to day transportation.
  • and my coolant does not look to be low. No visible signs of leaking. My 2001 5.3liter has only 2500 miles on it. Can someone give me a clue?
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    It's probably a bad sender unit and covered under warranty, bring it back to dealers for service.
    Enjoy your Truck :-)

    Happy Thanksgiving !

    Ray T.
  • Ok this is a new one....my turn signals make a static now when I flip them on....any ideas what this is?
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    through the sound system, it's probably a bad antenna coax or radio ground.
    -- Don
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    It is typical for Chev owners to want to compare the Tundra 1/2ton to their 3/4ton Chevs. This just proves to me how WEAK the Chev 1/2 tons are. Ask Oby his Chev 1/2 ton is seldom out of the shop.

    Remember this - In order to work a truck, it can't be on the top of a service lift. If anyone should know this simple fact well it should be Oby - his lemon Chev has been in the shop over 4 months.
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    of your way to flame Oby there aren't you Bama?
    any chance of you lettin it go?
    it has gone way beyond what would be called rediculous.
    thx
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    Geez, you get your feelings hurt easily!

    1. Oby started this thread in post #1540 (You better check quick because Oby will be deleting it soon!) I hardly call responding to a thread "going out of my way"

    2. I didn't flame Oby - I actually like Oby! I just pity him sometimes for buying such a Chev Lemon. He could have bought a Tundra and had zero problems. I stated that his Lemon has been in the shop over 4 months, a fact that Oby himself has admitted.

    The Chev vs. Tundra threads always end up "Mah 3/4 ton" or "Mah 1 ton" Chev will haul more than your 1/2 ton Tundra. To me this says that Chev owners don't want to compare their WEAK 1/2 ton pickups.

    This reminds me of Oby comparing his lame donkey to a thoroughbred. I just don't understand it! At least he can correctly spell "ridiculous"
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    i guess every town has a stalker.......:-))
    you're right about the fungus thing though.
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    Would you like some cheese with that WHINE?
    Only Seelig could call someone who responded to a thread a stalker.
  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    It was a 1500 Silverado that I loaded with 2000lbs and drove to Alaska and up the unpaved Dalton Highway to the Artic Ocean.

    It hasn't spent time in the shop; it has been totally reliable while carrying more weight than a Tundra can carry. I'll admit that a 1500 is WEAK compared to a 2500, just like my buddy had to admit that his Tundra is weak compared to my 1500.

    My buddy made alot of noise about his modern engine vs. the Chevy pushrod antique. Of course, my old engine makes more HP and torque than his 'modern' engine while delivering better fuel economy.

    There are more reported problems with new Silverado's than with the Tundra's. But, that has more to do with the fact that Silverado's outsell Tundra's 10:1. Why do you suppose 10 times as many people buy Silverado's?? Couldn't be because they are better trucks could it?

    Alot of noise, but nothing to back up the noise.

    Mike L
This discussion has been closed.