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Chevy Silverado Problems

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  • roncdroncd Posts: 2
    I also have a 99 Z71 and have had a ton of trouble from the start, some of the things that were fixed under warranty are now recurring. The noise that occurs from take off in the transfer case is back and now that I have 60,000. miles on it there is no hope of getting assistance from dealer or manufacturer, my advice to you is trade
    before warranty runs out as the problems will not go away. My ABS module and valve went out last week, the repair quote was $1450. without labor.
    Good luck.
  • Obyone, thanks for your input. I have to challenge you on the problem being rod bearings. I have vast experience with racing chevy V8's and this does not sound like a rod bearing. If I trully thought this was a rod bearing problem, I would insist the dealer pull the engine and inspect. The truck only has 14K. You also suggest a "top end cleaner" as a temp fix. This would have nothing to do with the rod bearings. You got me puzzled there. I have read a number of your posts and you seem to be very informed on the overall. Maybe I'm way off and I should just shut up and take note. Are you basing this information on known fact from experience or do you have other sources? You say things were resolved for the 01's. My truck was manufactured on the week of 17 July 00. Is there a TSB or some other solid info that I can get my hands on re: bearing clearance data? This is a brand new truck and imagine how I feel OWNING the thing and already the engine has a tick. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
    Regards Tim
  • I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado Z71 extended cab. It has 35, 000 miles and there is rust on the rear bumper (underneath and on the sides). I am also noticing rust along the frame. I contacted GM and was told this was an environmental condition and is not covered under the bumper to bumper 36,000 mile warranty. In the manual it states nothing about road salt, etc. I have filed with BBB to try to receive a new bumper and something done concerning the frame rust. GM has offered to pay half the price of a new bumper and labor. I am not satisfied with this bill of approximately $300.00 from my pocket. If anyone else has the same problem or any other suggestions, I would appreciate a response. 1999 Chevy truck owners, CHECK YOUR BUMPERS ESPECIALLY UNDER THE EDGE CHROME SIDE.
    Thank You,
    Chris
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    While checking your bumper, did you notice how paper thin it is?

    iceracer,

    I have it somewhere on my 'puter. Will research and get back to you. I remember in an ad, GM stated that the clearances have been tightened for 2001 as a selling point. Thought it was kind of insulting if you ask me.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Here you go:

    1. Document ID # 57106
    Engine Knock Diagnosis
    Knocks Cold and Continues for 2 to 3 Minutes
    Engine flywheel contacting the splash shield. Reposition the splash shield.
    Loose or broken crankshaft balancer or drive pulleys. Tighten or replace as necessary.
    Excessive piston to bore clearance. Replace the piston.
    Cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out. Cold engine piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable.
    Bent connecting rod.
    Heavy Knock with Torque Applied
    Broken Balancer or pulley hub. Replace parts as necessary.
    Loose torque converter bolts.
    Accessory belts too tight or nicked. Replace and/or tension to specifications as necessary.
    Flywheel cracked.
    Excessive main bearing clearance. Replace as necessary.
    Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace as necessary.
    Light Knock Hot
    Detonation or spark knock. Check operation of EST or ESC. Refer to Engine Controls.
    Loose torque converter bolts.
    Exhaust leak at the manifold. Tighten the bolts and/or replace the gasket.
    Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace bearings as necessary.
    Knocks on Start-Up but Only Lasts a Few Seconds
    The following conditions may produce engine knocks on initial start-up, but only last a few seconds:
    Improper oil viscosity.
    Install proper oil viscosity for expected temperatures.
    Refer to SECTION 0B.
    Hydraulic lifter bleed down
    Clean, test and replace hydraulic lifter, as necessary.
    When the engine is off, some valves will open. Spring pressure against the lifters will tend to bleed the lifter down. Repair the lifter only if the problem is consistent.
    Engines operated for only short periods between start-ups may have lifter noise that lasts for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.
    Excessive crankshaft end clearance; Replace the crankshaft thrust bearing.
    Excessive front main bearing clearance; Replace the worn parts.
    Timing chain tensioner malfunction; Clean, inspect and replace the timing chain tensioner, if required.
    Knocks at Idle Hot
    Inspect the drive belt for wear. Check the tension and/or replace as necessary.
    Inspect the A/C compressor or generator bearing. Replace or repair as necessary.
    Inspect the valve train. Replace the parts as necessary.
    Inspect for improper oil viscosity. Install proper viscosity oil for expected temperature. Refer to SECTION 0B for engine oil specifications.
    Inspect for excessive piston pin clearance. Replace the piston and pin as necessary.
    Inspect the connecting rod alignment. Check and replace the rods as necessary.
    Inspect for insufficient piston to bore clearance. Hone the bore and fit the new piston.
    Inspect the crankshaft balancer for looseness. Torque and/or replace the worn parts.
    Ensure that the piston pin is not offset to the wrong side. Install the correct piston.
  • That's impressive. You refer to Document ID#57106. Is this specific to the 6.0L for 00? Have you experienced any of these things first hand? If so what did you do? I had the truck into my dealer today and they gave me the same old song and dance. "Could not duplicate customer complaint" MORONS!! I intend to have this problem dealt with even if I have to fight for a new engine. Thanks again!!
    Regards Tim
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    GM has had this problem since '88. I've noticed on many trucks that after a period of time, especially if living in areas where road salt is used in winter, such as Wisconsin where I live, the bumpers get rusty, mainly on the right rear corner-could it be a combo of the exhaust, salt and limited cleaning during winter months? I had a bumper replaced on my '90 GMC replaced under warrany,and have noticed on my '01 that there waere a few spots that seemed to be rust or rail dust spots. My solution to keep the bumper looking good is wax it occasionally, and during winter I'm spreading grease around on the right corner to protect the surface. Another option is to get rid of the bumper and install a fiberglass roll pan. Another note, a few years ago I was at a local salvage yard and they had a dozen or so GM rear truck bumpers piled up, evidently donated from the local dealer after the warranty claims were made.
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    When I go to close the tailgate the cables come unhooked from the box-side mounts, anyone experience this? I tried to crimp the thin metal keeper on the cable with no luck.
  • As with my experenece with dealer with my problems (which differ from yours) and their ''no fix'' attitude, go ahead and file for a case # and from there go on to BBB because the dealer will likely just waste your time and get you pissed off,Belive me I know how it feels ,think clearly what your willing to accept be it buy back ,replacement,ex.warr,or fix and be prepared because it will take some time of haggleing back and froth (took me 3mts)with GM.Stand your ground, phone numbers you need are in back of owners manual......my 2 cents GOOD LUCK
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    I've noticed this on a few trucks, generally a few years older though. The coating the frames are dipped in doesn't last forever, I had mine undercoated, definately helps here in Road Salt WI.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I'm not sure, now that you mentioned 6.0, if it relates. I would like to believe so but not certain. There haven't been many problems associated with the 6.0 or not many people own them having problems.


    Another place you might want to check is here:


    http://agmlemon.freeservers.com/2001_Engine.htm

  • marcmarc Posts: 21
    1) Could loose torque converter bolts cause a grinding type noise when it locks in at 45mph?

    2) Could it cause the hard shift from 2-3 around 20-25 mph? Sometimes 3rd hits real hard like there is a 1 second pause between 2-3 and the motor gets a change freely spin before 3rd locks in.

    3) could the loose torque converter bolts cause the loud clank when shifting from D to R? I do not mean a clunk from the slack in the drive train being taken up I mean a metal clank.

    thanks
  • "Every consider a Tundra ?" Them's fightin' words son. ;-)
    The Chevy I rented was showing 7K miles. Probably real hard miles since it was a rental, but I was still surprised that it had degenerated so much.
    Mine had 9K when Chevy bought it back and it was still very tight and the only problems were the strange steering feedback on bumps and smooth road vibration.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Funny the things we do and the places we go in vehicles that don't belong to us. LOL!! BTW, just thought I'd ask about the Tundra as I was curious.
  • probaly a simple explanation put I havent noticed it on my other two vehicles ,Damn water spots on all the trucks windows, have tried different cleaners but their still there ,if it was the same on all three I would think its my water or soap used but I wash all three the same but only the truck has the hard to remove spots, any ideas on removal of water spots or cause???.......
  • jed1894jed1894 Posts: 337
    Good luck on the ticking probably......I would guess the your best result will be an ext. warranty (like me). I don't think GM will replace the motor because of this ticking problem. I've heard of numerous people on this site as well as others with the ticking problem and the best people have gotten was a ext. warranty and/or letter from GM. If GM opened the door with new engines, they would be flooded with ticking trucks.

    Regarding carbon buildup.......I had it done and it made my problem worst......don't let them BS you into that one...... I agree with Obyone.....I think the problem is in the bearings, rods, etc.

    Let us all know if you get a new engine.........Good luck......

    John
  • Had the same water spot problem on my first truck. Bought it used and all the windows were spotted. I used rubbing compound and very fine steel wool. It cleaned all the windows but took days of elbow grease. It even took the spots off the plastic back window!

    Good luck

    Scott
  • Im starting to think something else besides plain water is the cause because I could scrape the spots off with a razor blade and I also tried tar n bug remover which seems to work also put as you stated ,it does require elbow work, will try the rub comp on rest of it .Thanks
    Also has anyone noticed their drive shaft??? my looks like a rust shaft along with universals. I looked at two other chevy trks at work parking lot and they where the same.I know its notthing but my last trk was way older and the shaft and universals didnt look that bad...
  • I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 L automatic w/ 3.73 rears. I have had an idle problem since the truck was new. It has been brought in for service 6 times. Each time they re-flashed the computer and said that was pretty much all they could do. The problem is most pronounced under the following conditions:

    1) Drive truck until it reaches operating temp.
    2) Turn it off, come back to start it in about an hour.
    3) Outside temp around freezing or below.
    4) The engine RPM will immediately drop to 100-200 RPM and sputer for a few seconds then it will go back to around 500 RPM.

    I have tryed all different grades and brands of fuel. None of which helped.

    I have read postings that this is a common problem with this truck.

    The only problem with this is that in Massachusetts the inspection laws do not require an emissions test for the first four years. When I brought my truck in for inspection this year the service station advised me that the truck would not have passed emisions with the idle the way it is.

    Has anyone been able to get the [non-permissible content removed] at GM to fix their truck?
  • titus1titus1 Posts: 45
    there is a product on the market used for cleaning the water and floride deposits from shower glass. i'm not sure of the exact name, but will find out for you if you're interested. it's available at glass shops. it comes in a full strength that needs to be mixed with water. when using it though, be extra careful about letting it get on the paint and sitting there for an extended period. i know...sounds a little scary...but if you wipe the solution on and work it into the glass with an absorbing sponge and then immediately hose off, you will not harm your finish. it's been used by car detailers for years, and like i said, if you keep the water flowing on the area you are treating, you'll have no problem. the stuff is amazing, as you only need to wipe it on and work it for a few seconds and then hose off.
    .
    a word of caution on steel wool though, you may not notice it, but steel wool will definately leave fine scratches in the glass.
    Rick
  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    Back a few years ago in Hawaii, my truck was parked in a parking lot in the sun. Maintenance crews decide that high noon was the best time to water the grass. What i got out of it was the whole front of my truck had horrible spots on it. The hood and the windows. I tried all kinds of stuff to get the spots off to no avail. My bud told me to try Lime scale remover made for fish tanks. I think it was made by Jungle Products, and called "fish tank glass cleaner/ scale remover." I tested it in an inconspictuous place and it worked great. Took about 15 minutes and not much elbow grease. Did not hurt the paint or windows. I then gave the hood a good coat of wax for precautionary measures. After the I never parked near grass, if I could help it. Hope this helps.
    pat
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    While gas could be suspect in this case, others have tried various approaches to solve the problem. One has been to change the spark plugs to NGK TR-55 #3951 (copper). Costs about $15/set. Good luck!!
  • Wondering if anyone out there has experienced some of the "radio Button" lights being burned out in their AM/FM stereo. On my 1998 K1500 Z71 Pickup, the lights that illuminate the #2 and #5 radio preset buttons have gone out. Also the buttons < and > on the seek button have gone out. All other radio lights are working fine. Anyone else had this problem? Anyone know how to fix? Thanks for any help you can offer.
  • Has anybody used Rain-X or other type of glass (windows)protector ect, to help combat water spots from forming .Thanks for input on removing spots,got the windows clean again now, would like to keep em that way.......Besides having to dry them everytime they get wet...LOL
  • titus1titus1 Posts: 45
    i've used it and the product worked great. it took two applications, and while i don't feel it stays on as long as they claim, it did repel water during a rainstorm.
    Rick
  • you think the stuff is ok to use as far as build up is concern???
  • titus1titus1 Posts: 45
    it seems to have a denatured alcohol base, with some kind of a wax(or sorta like) compund that when dry, buffs off just like wax. i say denatured alcohol (aka shellac thinner) because i recognize the odor. as far as i know, it does'nt cause a build up. i actually like the product but i am sometimes too lazy to put it on.
    Rick
  • Ill try the X ,also Im going to find something to put on that rusted drive shaft probaly dont need to but it does look bad, cant hurt, maybe better for long term.......
  • what did you end up using to get the water spots off? How much work was it?

    Scott
  • I used bug and tar remover and Simple Green for gross removal(stuff I had in garage), than followed up with Windex for fine cleaning ,got most of it off, I didnt use anything abrasive to apply just a sponge took appox.1.5 hrs to do ,went to Kmart and got some Lime-scale remover will try that next time if neccessary .I am going to a glass shop and ask about some info. on a window protectant or if not avaialble will use Rain-X (or???) to see if it helps keep it off or make it easier to remove.......either that or carry a cig ligther adaptable hair dryer and blow dry the windows after they get wet..LOL
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