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Chevy Silverado Problems



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    congrats on the new truck. The HD's appear not to be plagued like the 1500's.

    Be sure to clay before using the Zaino.
  • rsssrsss Posts: 6
    While it may not affect the truck, per post #139 it has affected me. It has aggravated an old back problem & every time the truck does one of it's hard shift & clunks, it sends pain to my lower back. Spend $30,000 for pain, can't enjoy the heated seats now because I am back to wearing my back brace. Can't afford to take the big loss an buy another brand or car. These luxury items and hepa filter is why I switched from my Tahoe.

    Tried to get Chevy to do a buy back or at least help me get into another that won't subject me to pain, but the only thing they offered was extended warranty, so I will have to continue to suffer until they can come up with a fix, [which isn't likely] or I win the lottery which again isn't likely, as my state doesn't even have a lottery. I have been loyal to Chevy since my 69 camaro which was my lst car. Still have 69 rsss convert. & 92 camaro 25th anniversary convt, but thinking of doing a heav ho and buy something that works and not from GM.

    My truck has been in 14 times, maybe l5 or 16 [hard to keep track unless I pull my paper work]

    If there is a new update within the past month please let me know. Dealer has been great at trying everything and anything, its the big tech people and corporate that are ??? Thanks.....
  • I have had a major surging problem since about two months after I bought the truck new in May of 1999. The dealer can't find/solve the problem. CM will not admit it has a problem. I even took them to arbitration with the BB. They decided in my favor. I still have not received any relief from Chevrolet. Any help would be appreciated. I have a stack of paper work that you would not believe. I would like to send it to Chevrolets CO if I knew where to send it. This surge is not a small one. It is a major safety concern.
  • My 2000 2500LT's heater doesn't direct nearly enough hot air into the footwell of the passenger compartment. Around Christmas, while driving from Colorado to Tennessee in 12 degree weather, my wife and I could not get enough heat on the passenger's feet to keep them from being very cold. There weren't any drafts in the footwell, we ended up wrapping our feet in a blanket when setting on that side.

    The dealer checked with GM's Tech. Assistance and were told that the heater was performing to spec., I called that Customer Assistance line and was told that GM has a "Poor Heating Performance Review" currently looking into the problem (so I guess others have complained too.)

    Is anyone else have complaints with the amount of heated air directed at the passenger's feet?

    Rob Haas
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    You stated that BBB ruled in your favor at arbitration. What was the result? Buyback? replacement? This may vary from state to state but GM has 60 days to comply with the arbitrator's ruling. How long has it been?
  • This is my first time posting. My truck is a 2000 Chevy 2500 4x4 5 speed manual with 4:10 locker. It is the extra cab 4 door S/B. The engine has a tick at idle when you first start it cold. The tick goes away as soon as you pick up the idle even the slightest amount. The tick is gone after the engine is warm. Had it to my dealer twice now for this and they tell me "no can fix". I asked them to just bring the idle up a tad but they say that can't be done either. Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so what did you do?

    Sick of Tick!!!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Your dealer is correct on both counts. There is a temporary fix for it using top engine cleaner to rid of the carbon deposits but like I said it is only temporary. The main cause of the tick at startup is excessive clearance in the rod bearings. I'm sure your dealer knows this as it was resolved for the '01 Silverados. Only way to permanently fix the tick is to replace either the main bearings or the motor. The latter being cheaper I think
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Rod bearings is the correct phrase. Not main bearings.
  • As some of you know I had Chevy buyback a 2000 1500 2wd Xcab LS short bed auto 4.8 355 limited slip Silverado due to highway shake. It also had the harsh feedback through the steering wheel when hitting bumps at speed. I rented a truck last week and they gave me my exact truck, except it was a 2001, no limited slip, and had a 5.3 engine; had a 10/00 build date and the extra frame bracing. I was hoping Chevy had improved, but this one, with only 7 K miles, was horrible. I can say the steering felt better over bumps, and the engine was a slight bit more powerfull, but overall I'd rate it very poor. It vibrated all the time over 65mph, the shocks and springs were so weak they felt like it had 100K on it, the seats were spongy, not firm, the radio wasn't nearly as clear, or powerfull as mine, and it didn't drive well at all. The thing just felt loose all over. The good points are that the 5.3 had a little more power, judging by the seat of the pants feel, although I mainly felt it from 70-95mph accelerating hard. The 4.8 is a fine strong motor and even though I tow 3-4K lb boats, I would not spend the extra money for the 5.3 as it didn't feel much stronger. on the highway I got an avg of 19.4 mpg with the 4.8, and I got 17.7 with the 5.3. I still like the Chevy engines, but after this rental I'm positive I'm going to a Ford for the replacement for my buyback Chevy.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    just curious. How many miles did the truck have? Also, ever consider a Tundra?
  • roncdroncd Posts: 2
    I also have a 99 Z71 and have had a ton of trouble from the start, some of the things that were fixed under warranty are now recurring. The noise that occurs from take off in the transfer case is back and now that I have 60,000. miles on it there is no hope of getting assistance from dealer or manufacturer, my advice to you is trade
    before warranty runs out as the problems will not go away. My ABS module and valve went out last week, the repair quote was $1450. without labor.
    Good luck.
  • Obyone, thanks for your input. I have to challenge you on the problem being rod bearings. I have vast experience with racing chevy V8's and this does not sound like a rod bearing. If I trully thought this was a rod bearing problem, I would insist the dealer pull the engine and inspect. The truck only has 14K. You also suggest a "top end cleaner" as a temp fix. This would have nothing to do with the rod bearings. You got me puzzled there. I have read a number of your posts and you seem to be very informed on the overall. Maybe I'm way off and I should just shut up and take note. Are you basing this information on known fact from experience or do you have other sources? You say things were resolved for the 01's. My truck was manufactured on the week of 17 July 00. Is there a TSB or some other solid info that I can get my hands on re: bearing clearance data? This is a brand new truck and imagine how I feel OWNING the thing and already the engine has a tick. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
    Regards Tim
  • I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado Z71 extended cab. It has 35, 000 miles and there is rust on the rear bumper (underneath and on the sides). I am also noticing rust along the frame. I contacted GM and was told this was an environmental condition and is not covered under the bumper to bumper 36,000 mile warranty. In the manual it states nothing about road salt, etc. I have filed with BBB to try to receive a new bumper and something done concerning the frame rust. GM has offered to pay half the price of a new bumper and labor. I am not satisfied with this bill of approximately $300.00 from my pocket. If anyone else has the same problem or any other suggestions, I would appreciate a response. 1999 Chevy truck owners, CHECK YOUR BUMPERS ESPECIALLY UNDER THE EDGE CHROME SIDE.
    Thank You,
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    While checking your bumper, did you notice how paper thin it is?


    I have it somewhere on my 'puter. Will research and get back to you. I remember in an ad, GM stated that the clearances have been tightened for 2001 as a selling point. Thought it was kind of insulting if you ask me.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Here you go:

    1. Document ID # 57106
    Engine Knock Diagnosis
    Knocks Cold and Continues for 2 to 3 Minutes
    Engine flywheel contacting the splash shield. Reposition the splash shield.
    Loose or broken crankshaft balancer or drive pulleys. Tighten or replace as necessary.
    Excessive piston to bore clearance. Replace the piston.
    Cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out. Cold engine piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable.
    Bent connecting rod.
    Heavy Knock with Torque Applied
    Broken Balancer or pulley hub. Replace parts as necessary.
    Loose torque converter bolts.
    Accessory belts too tight or nicked. Replace and/or tension to specifications as necessary.
    Flywheel cracked.
    Excessive main bearing clearance. Replace as necessary.
    Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace as necessary.
    Light Knock Hot
    Detonation or spark knock. Check operation of EST or ESC. Refer to Engine Controls.
    Loose torque converter bolts.
    Exhaust leak at the manifold. Tighten the bolts and/or replace the gasket.
    Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace bearings as necessary.
    Knocks on Start-Up but Only Lasts a Few Seconds
    The following conditions may produce engine knocks on initial start-up, but only last a few seconds:
    Improper oil viscosity.
    Install proper oil viscosity for expected temperatures.
    Refer to SECTION 0B.
    Hydraulic lifter bleed down
    Clean, test and replace hydraulic lifter, as necessary.
    When the engine is off, some valves will open. Spring pressure against the lifters will tend to bleed the lifter down. Repair the lifter only if the problem is consistent.
    Engines operated for only short periods between start-ups may have lifter noise that lasts for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.
    Excessive crankshaft end clearance; Replace the crankshaft thrust bearing.
    Excessive front main bearing clearance; Replace the worn parts.
    Timing chain tensioner malfunction; Clean, inspect and replace the timing chain tensioner, if required.
    Knocks at Idle Hot
    Inspect the drive belt for wear. Check the tension and/or replace as necessary.
    Inspect the A/C compressor or generator bearing. Replace or repair as necessary.
    Inspect the valve train. Replace the parts as necessary.
    Inspect for improper oil viscosity. Install proper viscosity oil for expected temperature. Refer to SECTION 0B for engine oil specifications.
    Inspect for excessive piston pin clearance. Replace the piston and pin as necessary.
    Inspect the connecting rod alignment. Check and replace the rods as necessary.
    Inspect for insufficient piston to bore clearance. Hone the bore and fit the new piston.
    Inspect the crankshaft balancer for looseness. Torque and/or replace the worn parts.
    Ensure that the piston pin is not offset to the wrong side. Install the correct piston.
  • That's impressive. You refer to Document ID#57106. Is this specific to the 6.0L for 00? Have you experienced any of these things first hand? If so what did you do? I had the truck into my dealer today and they gave me the same old song and dance. "Could not duplicate customer complaint" MORONS!! I intend to have this problem dealt with even if I have to fight for a new engine. Thanks again!!
    Regards Tim
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    GM has had this problem since '88. I've noticed on many trucks that after a period of time, especially if living in areas where road salt is used in winter, such as Wisconsin where I live, the bumpers get rusty, mainly on the right rear corner-could it be a combo of the exhaust, salt and limited cleaning during winter months? I had a bumper replaced on my '90 GMC replaced under warrany,and have noticed on my '01 that there waere a few spots that seemed to be rust or rail dust spots. My solution to keep the bumper looking good is wax it occasionally, and during winter I'm spreading grease around on the right corner to protect the surface. Another option is to get rid of the bumper and install a fiberglass roll pan. Another note, a few years ago I was at a local salvage yard and they had a dozen or so GM rear truck bumpers piled up, evidently donated from the local dealer after the warranty claims were made.
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    When I go to close the tailgate the cables come unhooked from the box-side mounts, anyone experience this? I tried to crimp the thin metal keeper on the cable with no luck.
  • As with my experenece with dealer with my problems (which differ from yours) and their ''no fix'' attitude, go ahead and file for a case # and from there go on to BBB because the dealer will likely just waste your time and get you pissed off,Belive me I know how it feels ,think clearly what your willing to accept be it buy back ,replacement,ex.warr,or fix and be prepared because it will take some time of haggleing back and froth (took me 3mts)with GM.Stand your ground, phone numbers you need are in back of owners 2 cents GOOD LUCK
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    I've noticed this on a few trucks, generally a few years older though. The coating the frames are dipped in doesn't last forever, I had mine undercoated, definately helps here in Road Salt WI.
This discussion has been closed.