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Chevy Silverado Problems



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I'm not sure, now that you mentioned 6.0, if it relates. I would like to believe so but not certain. There haven't been many problems associated with the 6.0 or not many people own them having problems.

    Another place you might want to check is here:

  • marcmarc Posts: 21
    1) Could loose torque converter bolts cause a grinding type noise when it locks in at 45mph?

    2) Could it cause the hard shift from 2-3 around 20-25 mph? Sometimes 3rd hits real hard like there is a 1 second pause between 2-3 and the motor gets a change freely spin before 3rd locks in.

    3) could the loose torque converter bolts cause the loud clank when shifting from D to R? I do not mean a clunk from the slack in the drive train being taken up I mean a metal clank.

  • "Every consider a Tundra ?" Them's fightin' words son. ;-)
    The Chevy I rented was showing 7K miles. Probably real hard miles since it was a rental, but I was still surprised that it had degenerated so much.
    Mine had 9K when Chevy bought it back and it was still very tight and the only problems were the strange steering feedback on bumps and smooth road vibration.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Funny the things we do and the places we go in vehicles that don't belong to us. LOL!! BTW, just thought I'd ask about the Tundra as I was curious.
  • probaly a simple explanation put I havent noticed it on my other two vehicles ,Damn water spots on all the trucks windows, have tried different cleaners but their still there ,if it was the same on all three I would think its my water or soap used but I wash all three the same but only the truck has the hard to remove spots, any ideas on removal of water spots or cause???.......
  • jed1894jed1894 Posts: 337
    Good luck on the ticking probably......I would guess the your best result will be an ext. warranty (like me). I don't think GM will replace the motor because of this ticking problem. I've heard of numerous people on this site as well as others with the ticking problem and the best people have gotten was a ext. warranty and/or letter from GM. If GM opened the door with new engines, they would be flooded with ticking trucks.

    Regarding carbon buildup.......I had it done and it made my problem worst......don't let them BS you into that one...... I agree with Obyone.....I think the problem is in the bearings, rods, etc.

    Let us all know if you get a new engine.........Good luck......

  • Had the same water spot problem on my first truck. Bought it used and all the windows were spotted. I used rubbing compound and very fine steel wool. It cleaned all the windows but took days of elbow grease. It even took the spots off the plastic back window!

    Good luck

  • Im starting to think something else besides plain water is the cause because I could scrape the spots off with a razor blade and I also tried tar n bug remover which seems to work also put as you stated ,it does require elbow work, will try the rub comp on rest of it .Thanks
    Also has anyone noticed their drive shaft??? my looks like a rust shaft along with universals. I looked at two other chevy trks at work parking lot and they where the same.I know its notthing but my last trk was way older and the shaft and universals didnt look that bad...
  • I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 L automatic w/ 3.73 rears. I have had an idle problem since the truck was new. It has been brought in for service 6 times. Each time they re-flashed the computer and said that was pretty much all they could do. The problem is most pronounced under the following conditions:

    1) Drive truck until it reaches operating temp.
    2) Turn it off, come back to start it in about an hour.
    3) Outside temp around freezing or below.
    4) The engine RPM will immediately drop to 100-200 RPM and sputer for a few seconds then it will go back to around 500 RPM.

    I have tryed all different grades and brands of fuel. None of which helped.

    I have read postings that this is a common problem with this truck.

    The only problem with this is that in Massachusetts the inspection laws do not require an emissions test for the first four years. When I brought my truck in for inspection this year the service station advised me that the truck would not have passed emisions with the idle the way it is.

    Has anyone been able to get the [non-permissible content removed] at GM to fix their truck?
  • titus1titus1 Posts: 45
    there is a product on the market used for cleaning the water and floride deposits from shower glass. i'm not sure of the exact name, but will find out for you if you're interested. it's available at glass shops. it comes in a full strength that needs to be mixed with water. when using it though, be extra careful about letting it get on the paint and sitting there for an extended period. i know...sounds a little scary...but if you wipe the solution on and work it into the glass with an absorbing sponge and then immediately hose off, you will not harm your finish. it's been used by car detailers for years, and like i said, if you keep the water flowing on the area you are treating, you'll have no problem. the stuff is amazing, as you only need to wipe it on and work it for a few seconds and then hose off.
    a word of caution on steel wool though, you may not notice it, but steel wool will definately leave fine scratches in the glass.
  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    Back a few years ago in Hawaii, my truck was parked in a parking lot in the sun. Maintenance crews decide that high noon was the best time to water the grass. What i got out of it was the whole front of my truck had horrible spots on it. The hood and the windows. I tried all kinds of stuff to get the spots off to no avail. My bud told me to try Lime scale remover made for fish tanks. I think it was made by Jungle Products, and called "fish tank glass cleaner/ scale remover." I tested it in an inconspictuous place and it worked great. Took about 15 minutes and not much elbow grease. Did not hurt the paint or windows. I then gave the hood a good coat of wax for precautionary measures. After the I never parked near grass, if I could help it. Hope this helps.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    While gas could be suspect in this case, others have tried various approaches to solve the problem. One has been to change the spark plugs to NGK TR-55 #3951 (copper). Costs about $15/set. Good luck!!
  • Wondering if anyone out there has experienced some of the "radio Button" lights being burned out in their AM/FM stereo. On my 1998 K1500 Z71 Pickup, the lights that illuminate the #2 and #5 radio preset buttons have gone out. Also the buttons < and > on the seek button have gone out. All other radio lights are working fine. Anyone else had this problem? Anyone know how to fix? Thanks for any help you can offer.
  • Has anybody used Rain-X or other type of glass (windows)protector ect, to help combat water spots from forming .Thanks for input on removing spots,got the windows clean again now, would like to keep em that way.......Besides having to dry them everytime they get wet...LOL
  • titus1titus1 Posts: 45
    i've used it and the product worked great. it took two applications, and while i don't feel it stays on as long as they claim, it did repel water during a rainstorm.
  • you think the stuff is ok to use as far as build up is concern???
  • titus1titus1 Posts: 45
    it seems to have a denatured alcohol base, with some kind of a wax(or sorta like) compund that when dry, buffs off just like wax. i say denatured alcohol (aka shellac thinner) because i recognize the odor. as far as i know, it does'nt cause a build up. i actually like the product but i am sometimes too lazy to put it on.
  • Ill try the X ,also Im going to find something to put on that rusted drive shaft probaly dont need to but it does look bad, cant hurt, maybe better for long term.......
  • what did you end up using to get the water spots off? How much work was it?

  • I used bug and tar remover and Simple Green for gross removal(stuff I had in garage), than followed up with Windex for fine cleaning ,got most of it off, I didnt use anything abrasive to apply just a sponge took appox.1.5 hrs to do ,went to Kmart and got some Lime-scale remover will try that next time if neccessary .I am going to a glass shop and ask about some info. on a window protectant or if not avaialble will use Rain-X (or???) to see if it helps keep it off or make it easier to remove.......either that or carry a cig ligther adaptable hair dryer and blow dry the windows after they get wet..LOL
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