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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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Comments

  • ro22tolro22tol Posts: 24
    I pick up my truck Thursday morning. 2003 1500HD 4x4 short box. MSRP $36,678 Dealer went $1000 off invoice, then $6,500 in rebates so the final cash price with no trade was $26,025 !!!!

    Couldn't pass up that deal!
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    I'll pick up a 2003 Silverado LS extended cab with the 4.8 engine. The list is $29,715. With $5,250 in rebates and over $4,200 in GM card earnings, I couldn't say no. I couldn't walk away from the huge rebates and the GM card earnings that I can combine with the GM employee purchase discount, all of which end on August 1.

    Yes, I know the rebates will probably be extended beyond 1 Aug, but the ability to use GM card earnings with the GM employee purchase program will be gone forever. Too bad--this will probably be my last GM vehicle, unless they start making cars and trucks that I just "gotta have" regardless of price. Based upon the past 10-15 years, I don't expect to see that happen any time soon.

    As for the truck, can't wait to get my hands on it.....
  • ro22tolro22tol Posts: 24
    Yes I agree, the discounts were just to hard to turn down!
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    The GM card earnings will still be in effect for GM employee/retiree/family deals. After Aug. 1st they will be reduced from 5% to 1% on those programs,,,,,,Bummer !
    And they want me to change to a GM family first plan M/C for the deal and that 1% bonus........

    Funny thing is tho I just recieved a notice from GM card with a coupon for $750 or $1000 off bonus money if I purchase another GM car........geo
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    With dealer incentives and rebates of $9,000 off MSRP, it makes you wonder who sets these prices and pitty the fool who pays anywhere near MSRP.
  • rob35ctsrob35cts Posts: 53
    Ok guys I had the o2 sensor, cat. converter, fuel pump, new fuel filter, timing, and looked for codes in the computer. They couldn't find anything wrong! My last tank of gas I really drove slow 65 on the highway, I coasted as much as possible, I anticipated lights so I rarely stopped. I could't have drove much easier. (5.7v8 1994 c1500 extended cab short bed) I only got 14m/g. I know in the past that combination driving would have gave me at least 17. I have got 19 straight highway before. I am burning 1qt of oil per 1000 miles. In the past I would burn 1 qt per 3000 miles. PLEASE HELP!!
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Have you had the cat. converter checked?
    Any muffler shop will do it for free........geo
  • Have you had a compression test ran?? That type of oil consumption is very bad an indicative of a bigger problem. How many miles does that truck have on it?? Does it smoke out the exhaust or just leak?? When was the last time to change plugs & wires??
  • evergreenevergreen Posts: 208
    In 2000, I purchased a new GMC pickup and was noticing on my records that they charged me $500.19 for regional advertising. I purchased the vehicle for $350 over invoice and never noticed they had added this extra charge into the invoice price. That is all water under the bridge but I am now thinking about purchasing a new Corolla LE for my wife. Can I expect regional advertising costs or is that all built into the basic invoice price the dealer pays the manufacturer?
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    ALL auto mfrs. now charge adv. fees. Now if they charged you the mfr. adv. fee AND a regional adv.fee. I would be having a talk with the dealerships GM.

    Be careful on that toyota purchase. Those guys WHACK you a adv. fee and a regional dist. fee!
    Remember some person(s) OWNS the right to sell toys to dealers in his area. Thus the regional dist. fee on toys. Weird set up huh?

    Thats why my die hard toyota cousin went to a Chevy Prizm instead of corolla last year, also he just got a new Vibe instead of the toy clone because of those charges. We are GM employee/family so we get the BIG discount. WE also pay NO adv. fees or DOC fees on the GM deal.
    ..............geo
  • rob35ctsrob35cts Posts: 53
    I recently change plugs and plug wires because I had very bad arching going on. I did have the converter checked. I have no leakes. The truck has 94k miles. I have white smoke out the exhaust when it is first started. It lasts about 3-5min then stops. It does not continue. I have had my wife drive in front of me so I could see if it was smoking when she drives. We both had walkie talkies so that I could tell her what I wanted. I have not had a compression test. That has been on my mind that the motor has a ring problem. But I have shyed away from that because it does not continue to burn oil out the pipe once warmed up. I did also change the muffler and tail pipe about six months ago. They asked me if I wanted the low flow or high flow and I asked them if it mattered. They said no so I took the low flow because it was cheaper. I know wander if that was the wrong choice.

    I have never paid that fee so I would shop around and try to negotiate it out. 500 Is too much even if you had to pay it.
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Its not leaks in the cat. conv. ...they just get pluged up. Did ya check the EGR valve too. They get jammed up with carbon deposits and cause the problems you describe.
  • Obvoiusly there are many different opinions about where to go on this one. Thats the value about this forum. Sooner or later your get your answer. Start up smoke - worn valve guides, I am concerned that smoke for 3-5 min, sounds excesive for just a worn valve guide problem. A compression test is in order. They are easy to do if you buy the guage yourself. I would also talk to an expert (GM service tech) about the low restrictive muffler. I know that newer engine technology needs high flow exhaust to perform properely. Does yours fall into this??????

    Is your 94 fuel injected??
  • evergreen,
    this is just another reason to negotiate an out the door (OTD) price. Because many dealers will play the game of agreeing to a "price" and then piling on "dealer" costs after you think you are done.
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Why I ask about the EGR is a friend has a 95.
    Her EGR gets plugged up with carbon and it runs poorly, SES light on, eats gas bad.
    Mechanic pulls off EGR and cleans out the carbon
    Runs like new ! It has happened a few times.
     WE bust on her cause she drives like grandma and tell her she need to BEAT on it once in a while.
    She only has 50K on it !

    To solve carbon buildup problem I found a mfr. of EGR gaskets with a screen in them to keep carbon chunks out of the EGR. Tamco Co. makes them 10 bucks!
    Our local indy repair shop sees a lot of this in GMs and Fords of those years and keeps them IN STOCK ! 10 bucks is cheaper than $200 that the dealer wants to replace the EGR instead of cleaning it...........................geo
  • How do you releive the pressure before taking the filter off? I don't have any special tools so all have to do it with is just regular tools.
  • jakejake Posts: 1
    is it ok to flush out the dex-cool and install the green stuff ? [2500] thanks .
  • rob35ctsrob35cts Posts: 53
    I didn't release the pressure on the gas line. I had a nice headache from all of the gas on the floor. I eventually got it cleaned up.

    I have the old 350. I do not have the vortec. It is fuel injected. I am told it only has around 200 horses. I am going to check the muffler out. I will also check on the gauge as well for the compression test. Where is the egr located?

    They did check the converter for a clog.

    I really appreciate everyones suggestions.
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Is the round black or silver think on the right? rear side of the intake manifold near the throttle body aka fuel injector unit that looks like 1/2 a carb. on your year GM. It should have a vacuum hose or 2 hooked into it. It is held on by 2 bolts if memory serves me.............geo
  • gvoigtgvoigt Posts: 63
    Why would you want to change it for the regular stuff?
  • If this has been answered before, please forgive me for posting again, I'll be glad to look at the other posts where directed: To the point: I'm debating diesel vs. 8.1 gas, my question are the fumes put out by the DMax. My kids and I have asthma, and I was wondering if any DMax owners have noticed a high fume smell that would make breathing difficult.
    Thanks
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    You need to pull the fuse for the fuel pump.
    After you do that start the vehicle then let it run till it dies, then crank the engine over 4-5 times for about 3-5 seconds. This should relieve the fuel pressure to allow you to change the filter.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    The duramax is definitely a much cleaner burning diesel than anything that came out prior to it. However, it is still a diesel burning american sulfur loaded diesel. My recommendation to you would be to go test drive one and have you and your kids stand by the exhaust with the engine running to see if you have any problems.
    I know the Dmax is awesome, but it is not worth the health of my family. Besides, the 8.1L costs about $4000 less and gives very close to the same performance. I know the gas mileage sucks esp. when towing, but $4000 will buy a LOT of gas.
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    How are you guys getting these rebates of said $9,000. The only incentives I can get from my local GMC dealer is $2,000 to $3,000. Please help.
  • pmt3pmt3 Posts: 2
    I bought 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD with 4.3 L 6 cyl this Spring. Since day one it's had two minor irritants.
      1) Under light load while driving or even with the auto trans in neutral with truck stopped, have a light vibration in the 1000 - 1500 RPM engine speed range. Can feel in the steering wheel and dashboard. Engine is otherwise pretty smooth - idles OK and quite smooth above 1500 RPM.
      2) Under moderate acceleration there is a slight "rattling" type noise from engine. It's not pinging, nor sounds quite like detonation. At steady speeds engine is quiet and under heavier acceleration the "rattling" seems to be barely noticeable. I have read some auto mag road tests that commented on the GM pickups having somewhat noisy engines.
      So I'm wondering if these two traits are inherent in the 4.3 engine or whether I should take to dealer service dept? Anyone else have any experience with such things? Thank you.
  • before on townhall. Does anyone have info on the best Tonneau cover care methods-materials available. I was told by a boat dealer that Baby oil keeps boat vinyl in good shape. It actually makes the cover look good but my Tonneau sees much more UV exposure and other harsh elements. Any advise??

    So far the new truck is great, many improvements over my 00.
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    I have a 2001 GMC Sierra SLT Z71. When one opens the doors or turns on the dome light there isn’t enough light from overhead in the front of the truck. In my old 1993 GMC Jimmy the two map lights in the overhead console would come on with the dome lights. Does anyone have any information on how to convert the 2001 to do the same sort of thing?
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    that was hinged on my Silverado long bed. This is a good value - I think somewhere around $250 -but it has its drawbacks. I used VERY expensive 303 protectant for the cover and the dash/vinyl trim. I think it was about $25 + per quart and that tonneau really eats it up. It was the best I found. I never tried baby oil - sounds like it might attract a lot of dirt. Good Luck.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    and had the same engine characteristics, but I would describe them as very slight symptoms. If you have good gas mileage and no oil consupmtion I would not worry about it, but it won't cost you anything to take it into the dealer and document your complaint. I did have a miss in my engine and found out that one of the injectors was completely non-functional. The dealer can at least rule out something like that, and I would definitely take it in. A Chevy V6 will be somewhat noisy, but the level of noise that is tolerable is a matter of personal perception. This engine has been around for a long time, so it is not a problem engine. At least you don't have the infamous "cold start knock" on the 4.8 and 5.3 V8s. Let us know what the dealer says.
  • What is the 303 protectant?? Like a kicked up armorall?? How long does it last? Expensive doesnt bother me if it lasts. Has anyone else used this?
This discussion has been closed.