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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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  • due39due39 Posts: 8
    Obyone--- First I disconnected the battery for about 20 minutes. Connected the Battery "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" still was on all the time. Then I disconnected it for about 2 hours. Light went out and so far has stayed out. Thanks your advise seems to have worked. I also blew out all the dust with air. and cleaned the gas cap. Due39
  • Obyone

    Thanks for the info. I will contact my dealer today. Took it in for the 1-2 shift shutter with the TSB found here. They stated that the TSB did not apply to the 03 due to a two vs three pin connector somewhere. They loaded up some recent shift updates and have not had the problem since.

    Does anyone have a 03, LT with automatic climate control that when you turn OFF the AC the indicator (snowflake) comes on? I have not read the OM but I thought I would ask here.

    Also has GM changed the torque curve from the 00 vs the 03, 5.3. I would swear that this truck accelerates better when pulling my boat from a stop.
  • alnolealnole Posts: 7
    I have a 1994 Silverado with 300,000 miles. Been having this problem since late last winter. In the morning or whenever the engine is cold, I start it up and head to work. Until the engine is beginning to warm up after 5 minutes or so, when I hit the gas and take the engine from 1500 rpm to something higher the engine hesitates (stalling and backfiring once)but usually catches right away. It is like everything goes dead for a split second then catches. Once warm the engine is very responsive and drives fine. There is no problem starting the engine, cold or hot. I have noticed this when the air temp is below 55 degrees, I didn't really have any issues in the heat of the summer (even early in the am) but now noticing as it has gotten cooler. Any one have any thoughts-- I am thinking the coolent temp sensor but my check engine light is not on. Thanks in advance.
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    i know i need the brake shoe for the rears on my '00 rado, but does anyone know where to get the shoes other than the dealer?
    and, while i'm still begging, does anyone have a procedure from the manual that can help me with replacing the shoe?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    are you talking about the caliper?

    if so heres instructions per helms manual

    FRONT REMOVAL

    1. remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the mastr cylinder
    2. jack truck
    3. remove wheel
    4. Using a C Clamp or something like a c clamp compress the caliper piston until it bottoms in the bore
    5. disconnect the brake hose at the caliper by removing the inlet fitting bolt
    6. remove the caliper mounting bolts
    7. remove the caliper
    8. inspect the caliper

    INSTALLATION

    1. Install caliper mounting bolts (80 lb-ft)
    2. connect the brake hose by installing the inlet fitting bolt (33 lb-ft)
    3. bleed the brakes
    4. install tire
    5. lower vehicle

    Only difference for the rear is there are caliper guide pin bolts

    Reinstalling guid pin bolts
    1. remove all adhesive patch from bolts
    2. clean threads
    3. apply threadlocker (gm pn: 12345493) or red locktite #272 to the threads
    4. Install and torque bolts to 31 lb-ft

    UH OH i think you need info on the parking brake shoe right? Its on the next page haha ill leave all the info i posted cause i am sure its useful

    PARKING BRAKE SHOE
    Removal
    1. Jack truck take off tire
    2. Remove caliper (see above) and mounting bracket as an assembly
    3. Relieve tension on the park brake cables by loosening the nut on the equalizer
    4. remove parking bake cable from lever
    5. remove rotor
    6. remove axle shaft
    7. remove park brake shoe return springs
    8. remove park brake shoe anchor springs and pins
    9. remove the park bake shoes

    there is a drawing if you would like me to scan this and email it to you let me know (Ryanb0928@yahoo.com)

    Ryan
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    i wasn't aware that the axle had to be pulled though.........;o((
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    What is the diffrence in the "C" and the "K" series pickups?
    I know I ask a lot of maybe stupid questions but I am trying to learn this stuff.

    Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    c = 2wd
    k = 4wd
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    I have my GM trailering guide booklet which can answer the questions you were asking about towing with your truck.
    Your profile lists 1500 C/K, which one is it?

    Do you have the 2wd or 4wd ?? Reg cab or extended cab? What engine? What rear end gear (3:42, 3:73 or 4:10) Factory tow pagkage? This is info needed to determine truck capabilities for trailering.

    Ray T.
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    2001 GMC Sierra K 1500 Z71 4WD, Ext Cab 4 door, 5.3L, 3.73 rear end, factory towing package stating 600lbs tung Waight.

    Thanks...
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    would you please post or email the link to the other GM truck site................this place is deader than a fence post.
    what happened? this place use to rock and roll......;-(
  • bcobco Posts: 756
    used to hang/post here quite a bit. but it's been awhile. anyways, here's the semi-regular (but not really) update.

    '00 rado ext cab LS, z71, 5.3, 3.73 blah blah blah.

    been averaging about 15 mpg for the duration. just turned 60k last night. still love it...no major problems yet (knock on wood). it's never seen anything but mobile one and ac delco filters and i do all the maintenance myself. not really sure what else to say, because nothing much has happened worth reporting.

    shouts out to oby, babs, mgdvhman, rayt2, and all you other clowns out there that used to help me pick on that what's his name with the tundra. apparently all that fun has come to an end. oh well. take care all, i'll be back in another 30k or so...

    kyle
    (kjw33@att.net)
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    the post count might be up to 3525.........LOL
  • punjabpunjab Posts: 102
    I know these subjects have been covered before, but humor me.

    When my '01 Z71 was under warranty, I had a driveshaft clunk. Dealer lubed spline, put her back together and it worked just fine. Second time I had the problem, they changed the transfer case fluid and it worked fine. Now, outside of warranty, it has come back. Does anyone have the new nickel plated spline, and does it work? Has anyone gotten GM to install this post-warranty free of charge?

    My second question - and no 2 dealers seem to answer it the same - Does the synthetic rear diff fluid require an additive. If so, what is it and who carries it?

    Thanks in advance.
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    "2001 GMC Sierra K 1500 Z71 4WD, Ext Cab 4 door, 5.3L, 3.73 rear end, factory towing package stating 600lbs tung Waight"

    OK, the 2000 GM Trailering Guide says Gross Combination Weight Ratings for Trailers - Automatic Transmission is 13000 lbs. as you have your truck configured. My book says your max trailer wieght is 8500 lbs. but do the formula I copied and pasted from Jtt3 from the GMC board.

    #788 of 803 6400 GVWR by jtt3 Sep 24, 2003 (10:33 pm)
     "Lets use the 6400 GVWR for example:
      This is rating for truck only but hitch weight has to be added also.
    Truck empty is 5000 plus 2 people 300 plus a tank of gas 200 plus trailer hitch weight 700 lbs eguals 6200 lbs which is OK 200 lbs to spare.

    Now I beleive this truck has a GCWR (Gross combination weight rating of 13000 lbs.take the 6400 lbs and subtract the hitch weight and this becomes 5700 lbs.
    Now take 13000 lbs and subtract the 5700 gives you a trailer weight of 7300 lbs you can pull "

    Ray T.
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! That puts a lid on the question.

    Most of the trailers we have looked at are way above this 7300lbs GVWR (trailer waight) so we will have to look at getting a smaller version.
    But the tung waight is close to or above the 600lbs. Is this a real concern? The trailer dealers are saying no but I am concerned...

    Thanks again for all you help on this.
  • I have a 01 Z-71 short bed and just had the nickel plated yoke put in. It worked just fine. This was my third time complaining about it and they finally did something.First they said the yoke was for ext. cabs ,then they greased it and now replaced it.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    The additive used in the past was for a limited slip rear differentials. The locking differential in the current Silverado does not require it.
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Here's what I did with my truck using this formula (after the fact): I was told that the trailer could match my GVWR for truck and still be OK,.....just glad the gremlin in my head was whispering to buy at "under" GVWR listing of truck. Using the calculations I now see why.

    2000 Silverado Ex. Cab, 5.3L, 2wd, Auto, 3/4 ton Short Box, 3:73 Locker, Z85 H.D. Pkg & Factory Tow package.

    GVWR 7200 lbs. ULW 5000 lbs. approx.
    28' Travel Trailer GVWR 6600 lbs. Hitch Dry Wgt. 528 lbs. (I use a Weight Distributing Hitch)

    7200 GVWR
    -600 lbs. hitch wet weight (approx)
    -6600 lbs.

    13000 GCVWR
    -6600
    =6400 lbs. Trailer wgt. (I'm over by 200 lbs. but I never have the truck or trailer at max. weight anyway so I watch my loading of both truck & trailer to keep within limits)
        
    If I had listened to the R.V. dealer he would have sold me a unit that would not have allowed me much room for camping equip. much less the wife and kid! So you get the picture. That's why their called "salesman".

    Ray T.
  • hey man......good to see you here....I am like you....be back in 30K.....maybe....maybe I will change that cab filter by then!?.....still waiting for Babs to come on by and show me the ropes...LOL.....76K and still coughin'.....(not really)....I still buy rounds for the service man....pints up to the armed forces - Porter
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