Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

1111214161766

Comments

  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    Is your truck a crew cab or is it a standard 2 door? What size engine does your truck have? Is it a standard or automatic? Have you been using more gas since you started having problems with your oil? Do you monitor your gas mileage and can I ask you what it is, before and after?
  • razielraziel Posts: 2
    Its an extended cab with the 4.3 V6 automatic. Not too sure about the gas mileage. Its not my daily driver so its hard to tell if the gas mileage has changed but I would say I get around 15MPG I don't really notice any difference in that MPG....
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    ...I would find another dealer to look at the truck, as it sounds like you've got a problem lurking in there somewhere.

    I have a 1997 S-10 4x4 with the 4.3 engine. Currently I have 45,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 2000 miles, however it doesn't use a drop between changes. With respect to power, it has PLENTY for a V-6. Expressway driving is no problem at all.

    I've never carefull checked my gas mileage, but rough calculations put me around 19-20 MPG, with probably 70% of my driving on the highway.
  • 1998 S-10 with the 4-cyl. 5-spd. 71,000 miles.

    OK. Think Headlights/Tailights/Back-Up Lights.

    The Problems:
    1) My Back Up lights never work anymore. Bulbs and fuses are fine. When I put the truck into reverse, the headlights come on.
    2) Rear Driver Side Brake light doesnt work when my main light switch is off, however when all the lights are on the brake light works fine.
    Turn signal on that side, and regular light works fine all the time.

    Anyone have any clue what the hell is going on?
    Thanks
  • For everyone who's seat handles are breaking... here you go!!

    -- gm seat fix (http://www.gmseatfix.com)

    This will solve your problems
  • cajun626cajun626 Posts: 54
    I have a 97 S10, 2.2L, 5 spd, ext cab with 58K miles. The truck runs fine, but I hear what sounds like a ping or knock from (I think) the
    engine when I accelerate. I don't always hear the noise under accel, and the noise stops immediately when I lift my foot off the pedal. I
    don't hear it at all at idle or start up. If it matters - I use 87 octane and the truck still has original plugs. Any thoughts?
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Although I have a V-6 in my S-10, I'm experiencing a similar situation. Mine seems to "ping" or sort of "rattle" when I initially accelerate. Like yours, I can get it to stop by modulating the throttle. At highway speed, the truck runs fine. Just for grins, I'm going to try a new knock sensor...
  • rgoldergolde Posts: 5
    Occasionaly when I first start my 2001 4x4 S10 Automatic I get no gear indicator in the dash display also no odometer or speed display. When this happens there is a dely in the shift from first to second the transmission is slipping becaosse I see the rpms climb while this happens.
    Most of the time it works fine but it's only a matter of time. Any ideas?
  • rgoldergolde Posts: 5
    Okay nevermind I just bought a 2004 F150 and sold my S10
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Good luck with the new truck. I've thought about doing that myself, but still owe some money on my Corvette, and my S-10 is just my "winter beater".
  • rgoldergolde Posts: 5
    Thanks and by the way I am very impressed my new XLT 4x4 with Super Cab.
  • joeyags21joeyags21 Posts: 4
    i have a 2001 4.3 s10 recently the "service engine soon" light came on, soon after that the "check gauges" light came on but that only stays on while idle, at the same time as the check gauges light came on i noticed that i was reading no oil pressure, again this was only a problem at idle, when i hit aprox. 2000rpm the light went off and the oild gauge came out of the red. i am also getting a clanging and knocking noise from the engine that are both much more apparent at idle. can anyone relate or help? if you have any helpfull hints or solutions please reply to this or send me an email JOEYAGS21@yahoo.com thank you~!
  • dgillis001dgillis001 Posts: 4
    Bought second-hand yrs ago an 89 s-10 blazer w/ 4.3 V-6 eng. Blazer has 184,000 mi on it although was told eng. was replaced around 80k or so as had 107k when purchursed. It still runs strong today, doesn't leak any fluids nor use any oil, not even a half qt. of it skipping oil changes every so often! The only gripe is that the 89 4.3 eng. idles rough but when given the gas, it grabs and goes! Anyway, given the mileage on it, I recently bought an 01 Sonoma ext. cab sportside p/u w/ the 4.3 and can only hope I get the same service from it. The truck has plenty power, some idiot in a full-sized Dodge tried to get ugly w/ me today, he hit his refusing me entry into a rh lane so I hit mine and I beat him and had air-cond on and wasn't even flooring it! The Vortec came alive! I always used Castroil Syntec in 89 S-10 Blazer and am wondering if I should use the same in 2001 GMC Sonoma-40,000 mi. on it. The oil is alot more expensive but 89 Blazer has held-up well. Just bought Sonoma in Feb. 04 and is time for my first oil change since I acquired, already tallied up 3k mi. Any suggestions or responses would be welcome. dgillis001@comcast.net
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    sounds like you definitely have a problem in your oiling system. I hope that you've stopped driving the truck and checked:
       A) the oil level;
       B) the oil filter (for blockage) better
          yet, just change it;
       C) if the above are ok, your oil pump
          is most likely on it's way south.
  • bigaldsbigalds Posts: 47
    I use Mobile One Synthetic Motor Oil($4.50 Qt) and Purolator Pure One Synthetic Oil Filter($6), for several years now in several vehicles, and that stuff is great. I have seen NO bad effects from it. No Leaks. Sure, it costs twice as much, but it lasts twice as long, so it really doesn't cost you any more, and you do oil and filter changes at 6,000 miles to 7,500 miles, instead of every 3,000. It keeps the engine super clean inside, gives better lubrication on start ups, especially in cold weather. I have used it in 91, 93 & 97 Ford Explorers & 99 Chev Blazer, all with high mileage, no engine problems. I highly recommend it.
    Big AL
  • I own an '03 S-10 LS, 4.3L, 4WD, Extended cab.

    I have been troubled by a persistent rattle/squeak/air leak between the driver door and the third door since the vehicle was delivered in August 03. I have less than 4k miles on the truck, and have had it in the service department about six times already.

    Do any of you have any experience with using the Illinois Lemon Law to arbitrate your vehicle? All the law says is that a lemon is a vehicle that has a significant defect (affecting value, safety, or usability) and has been repaired at least four times.

    Thanks,
    Steven
  • dksdks Posts: 1
    i own a 1998 s-10.Latley i have been having problems with it starting.When i first try to start it,it just winds over.Then if i take the key out of the iginition and let it sit for awhile it will start.Any ideas on this.
  • bigaldsbigalds Posts: 47
    You need to have 60 lbs of Fuel pressure in the fuel rail for the injectors to fire during starting. 52 pounds in not enough. Also pressure do a leakdown test, pressure should not leak down within 10 minutes.
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    Vehicle: 99 S-10 2WD LS, 4.3 auto, ZQ8, limited slip, 3.42 gear

    I know this is board is for problems, but the last post in the "maintenance" board was in 2003 so I thought I'd post here. Anyway, was wondering if any of you have changed the radiator, trans, and differential fluids in your vehicles. I'm approaching the 5 year mark and will definitely be changing the coolant (though I'm WAY lower than the 150K mileage) but was wondering of the transmission and the rear end. Getting conflicting info regarding the limited slip and tranny fluids, in terms of needing an additive for the limited slip and change intervals for both.

    Also, was wondering if anyone cleaned their injection systems either themselves of taking it do the dealer (cost ?). Would prefer doing it myself having done this before but can't find a kit in order to perform the service. Does anyone know of where I might purchase a kit?
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    ...Since I'm a "maintenance freak", I change my vehicle's fluids on a regular basis. My S-10 is 7 years old, so I've already changed the coolant (at 5 years), and I presently have only 45,000 miles on the truck.

    I think that you should check your owner's manual regarding the differential lube. My manual said that the (limited slip) diff lube should be changed the first time at 3000 miles, and then some interval after that, and no posi additive should be put in. My S-10 is a 4 wheel drive, so the rear might be different than a 2 wheeler, but I was rather surprised at the initial change at only 3000 miles. I put synthetic oil in mine, and all is fine.

    I also changed the tranny oil every 24 months, the power steering oil at the same time, and flush the brake fluid annually. Good luck with your truck.
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    I was surpised by the interval too, and the non-additive for the rear end! Pretty much have been following the schedule too, going to the owner's manual and the service manual to compare/contrast the two. Will be doing the maintenance soon. Will probably have to go to have the injection system serviced since I can't find the kit. Will be doing the brakes as well.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    My manual states 15 K if you tow and no recommendation if you don't tow, it's a regular diff.I did mine at 40K and drilled a hole in the bottom of the diff, good spot lots of meat tapped and installed a flush 1/4 inch pipe plug, no more cover removal.
  • wlb531wlb531 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 S10 v6 and at 5200 miles on the way to work one morning the check gages light came.
    as yours did at idle no oil pressure rev the engine and oil pressure would build up a small amount.
    I drove it directly to the chevrolet dealer and they found that the oil pump had failed and replaced it under warranty.
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    Was thinking that as well, but am looking for a cover with a plug in it in a low position. Am a little iffy on drilling into the diff though, even with a stop on the bit. In any event, the fluids will be changed.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I drilled with with the cover off, no stop needed, there is a great spot with the cover off you Will see it. The cover drain would leave too much old oil for me. I also put a drain in my transmission pan, 4L60E.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Check out the SLP engineering website. They make a rear end cover for the Camaro/Firebird axle that has a drain plug grafted on to it. It might fit the S-10 also.
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    Thanks for the info. I'll check into the rear cover, know there are differences between the truck and car 10-bolts, but the cover might still be able to work. This is another thing to think about. More than likely I'll be replacing the o2 snesor(s) as well. Always try to do that in the 30k - 40K range to take of that.

    Again thanks for the information and will look into that.

    Thanks.
  • glockmanglockman Posts: 1
    I have the following problems with my 2002 GMC Sonoma w/ ZR7 package.
    1) Windows warp out and windows can't be closed. This occurs when it is above 90 degrees or below 20 degrees. I had have it back to the dealer 3 times and they can't seem to duplicate problem.
    2) Engine has no upper end power above 3,000 rpm.
    I had a 1998 GMC Sonoma (same set up as my 2002) and the 1998 had all kinds of power.Dealer says I just have to live with it. It runs worse than a bad 4 cylinder engine.
    3) This 2002 GMC Sonoma is a real gas guzzler. Dealer has installed all updates and replaced air cleaner and the best I can get is 15miles or less on the highway running empty.

    Has anybody experienced any problems like this!
  • heres the jist. Had a squealwhen accelerating and stopping(basically constant). Dealer told me brakes, i told them bull. Changed brakes myself and took old pads in to prove it werent the brakes. dealer then replaces the u-joints like i asked them to do under warranty. i thought it was u-joints. they said they couldnt figure out which one, front or back so they changed both and i looked to make sure they changed them. squeal went away for about and hour. now the squeal is back but you can only hear it with the radio off, windows down and having the sound bounce off of a passing vehicle. im wondering if a bearing is bad on the tailshaft of the transfer case? any ideas?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    If you have a flex fuel engine they will burn more fuel, its a compromise between gasoline or alcohol.
This discussion has been closed.