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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • I have a recently acquired 97 2.2 liter with the New Venture 1500 transmission. The truck has 87,000 miles on it. The transmission is as smooth as silk except for a slight noise with clutch out at idle. I changed the lubricant with the $11.30 per qt.. takes 3 quarts, of the special GM/New Venture lubricant. I understand that the friction modifier was made available to be added to earlier transmissions. I don't know the time frame of this change.

    The recommended lubricant is a highly friction modified semi-synthetic synchromesh oil to reduce transmission component wear.

    Could it be that some are having their oil changes done at Jiffy Lube, and some GL4 or GL5 lubricant has been added to the transmission???
  • I'm having trouble with the head gasket (2.2 L 4). Needs to be replaced again at 95000 miles. Also the electrical wiring is bad in my truck. My tailights don't work sometimes.
    Recommendation: Don't get an 2.2L s-10
  • What year model is your 2.2 powered vehicle. I read somewhere, maybe here, where the pre 97 engines had a head gasket failure problem, but not like the Dodge Neon. But I understand that the late models are not plagued by this problem. Now that we are nearing the end of the production of this engine!

    What else do you know about this problem? My 97 has 87,000 and to my knowledge has not had a head gasket failure.
  • I bought a 97 S-10 77,000 miles, 2.2 auto. I have an 83 S-10 with 160,000 and the engine has had no internal repair. I got the 97 real cheap because it has a lot of dents and the carpet was destroyed. But the engine and trans ran very well. Took it home, changed oil, problem began. Since the lifters can't be removed without pulling the head, $100 for gaskets and new bolts, and lifters are $150 a set, I hoped someone might have some pointers for me. Cold start, fine. Soon begins ticking like a lifter. Noise goes away if RPMs increased. Used stethoscope. Loudest under exhuast port of number 4 cylinder. Used timing light to verify it ticks on every crank rotation, and shorted plugs one at a time to see if noise would go away or double up. Stays the same. Removed valve cover and checked torque on rocker nuts, bottom centered. Started and put stethoscope on each rocker arm. Does not seem to be any of them. Tried 10-30 oil instead of 5-30, no change. Put in a quart of Risoline treatment and idled a while, seemed to lessen. Changed oil, returned to same. Dropped lower bell housing, checked convertor bolt torque. Drove a hundred highway miles with no problem. Oil pressure on dash gauge, 60 cold at idle, 20 when warm at idle. 60 above idle when warm. Temperature fine. Like I say, runs great, and in spite of all the complaints I see here about lack of power with fours, it tachs up and goes just fine. If I have to spend $300 to pull the head and replace lifters, I might as well pull the engine renew everything. Thanks.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    sound could be an exhaust leak they sound the same,check it out.
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    1. If the engine has multiple fuel injectors, put the stethescope on each one. If it is a throttle body injector, be sure to put the scope on the throttle body to check the injector in it. If the noise matches exactly, you have noisy injector(s), not lifters. If the injectors are making the noise, I suggest you run a can of 44K through the fuel system. Most retail parts stores don't carry it, but a lot of dealerships do. Expect to pay about $20 per can.

    2. Before tearing into the engine, remove the serpentine belt. Don't run the engine long--I think the belt runs the water pump. If the noise goes away, you probably have a noisy belt tensioner, alternator or water pump.

    3. Before tearing into the engine, I would try running a can of engine flush in the oil, then change the oil and add a can of Restore with the new oil. If I remember the layout of that engine, the lifters have alot of oil flowing on them. It's pretty difficult for a lifter to go bad with good oil flow, unless you have a broken spring in the lifter.

    Good luck.

    Joe
  • Thanks fellas. The problem turned out to be the oil-pump. The first owner apparently replaced the timing chain tensioner after the plastic guides broke off. The pieces were on top of the lifter retainers, in the oil pan, jammed in the pump screen, and everywhere else. I'm just trying to decide how much to spend on rebuilding it. A thousand dollar rebuild on a thousand dollar truck doesn't seem sensible. Might see a lot of S-10 body and interior parts on eBay soon!
  • I have a 2000 Sonoma with 4 cyl and 5 speed New Venture Transmission. It has made noise since new with the transmission in neutral and your foot off the clutch. I am told that this is normal--what else is new. Any input on this? Anyone had any experience on a fix for this?
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    Mine too, and there are other post about this condition. It made me feel good to change the fluid with the $11.00/qt oil from GM. Holds 3 qts. New Venture says an oil change is not required, and the owners manual does not mention it. There was no change in the idle bearing noise with the oil change.

    The truck has 89000 miles on it and the transmission sure is a smooth shifter and quite in all the gears. I don't feel that the slight bearing noise is a problem considering the light weight oil used.
  • We are having alot of problems with my sons S-10. I realize that he is hard on this vehicle but we have put in 2 motors, a transmission, clutch, rear end, alternator, and now it is in the shop for the computer. He has a 2000 S-10 with 57,000 miles. It was bought new off the lot. My husband has a friend who works at a chevy dealer near us and he described the truck as a hand grenade waiting to go off, and recomended them for ladies or older men only and said they are not made to hold up to any abuse what so ever. Help! What can we do short of taking the truck away! It was bought for him by his grandfather so I really don't have much say so. Thanks Gale
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    I recommend a Humvee for a young teenager. I am a grandfather that tried to help a grandson, twice, with a vehicle. He did major damage to both vehicles. The last being a 97 S10 that I have just restored.

    I have another grandson with an old 91 S10 with 136000 miles on it and going strong in spite of severe abuse. The S10 obviously is one tough truck. But young people play games as though in a demolition derby.

    Your solution may be tough love.

    I don't get the connection of ladies or elder men. A vehicle should be driven in a safe and reasonable manner regardless of the driver. Is it I'm young and I can rip and tear.
  • Greetings all - a little freaked to read all the problems in the S-10's, but I'll just trust my gut and have my forever loyalty in Chevy's. :) Anyway, just purchased a used 2000 S-10 V6 TODAY and it's in great condition, runs really well and nothing seems to have broken off yet!

    To the point: When we started it on the lot, it had the little whiney sound coming from sort of behind the ext. cab. You can't hear the noise at all when you're in the cab. I gave the dealer a funny look when I heard it and his reply was "It's the fuel pump, they all sound like that now". Knowing the pump was in that general location, we went with it. He said it would go away after it warmed up - however I noticed after I drove it the 80 miles home, left it running and got out - it was still doing it. Am I hallucinating? Is this guy full of it or do they all do that now? It's the strangest little sound that does just seem like something electrical is running. Quite an odd feature to try and sell cars with though.

    I had a 93 4-banger that I loved and managed to drive to it's near death (it still does a great grocery run). I kept trying to buy a "car" - but couldn't force myself to do it. Anyway... just curious about the whine!

    Also, anyone have a clue what this deep brown-purple metallic color is I have purchased? Just curious to find a real color name.

    Thanks! - Alicia *8-)
  • I was buying an air filter the other day and the Fram book said that there is a pcv valve for my 98 S-10 2.2l. I looked and was unable to find it. Could someone help me locate it, please?

    Thanks
  • zr2randozr2rando Posts: 391
    they are noisy...and aftermarket ones can be even noisier.....only good thing about them is you can really tell when its running....and when its not.
  • I am, unfortunately, learning a little about S-10 repair, and perhaps can help answer a few questions I see here. If the fuel pump is making noise, as the truck idles, the noise will seem to speed up occasionally, or seem like it is turning on and off. Some fuel is bled back to the tank to control pressure and cool the components. Speaking of which, don't run the tank low on fuel. That can shorten the pump's life, and the cost of a new pump is astonishing. The pcv valve should be on the end of that rubber hose on top of the valve cover. And to find the name of your paint color, go here http://duplicolor.anthonythomas.com/match/match_maker.cgi -The problems with head gaskets? I have been reading warnings about things that cause this problem. 1) NEW headbolts should be used when reinstalling the head. Plain and simple, NEW BOLTS. Guys keep telling me they never use new head bolts. I never have either, but I'm going to this time. It's less than twenty bucks, anyway. I read that on my 97, at least, the bolts are dry thread, not extending into the water jacket, and no sealer or lock tite should be put on them. Just multi-grade oil. I prefer anti-seize, and am trying to check this out. The holes must be tapped to clean any debris or thread abnormalities. This is all to ensure accurate torque readings. The mate surfaces, head and block must be clean. You must use only plastic scrapers to clean the aluminum surface of the head. Wire brushes, abrasive pads etc. are not to be used. Proper torque sequence and stepping with a quality wrench must be followed. The recommendations for head gasket sealant, application, and time frame must be followed. If the block or head are warped, you will keep blowing the gasket, and the only way to tell is with a true straight edge and a feeler gauge. (Yeah, we're out of luck on that). Also, young men's first few vehicles always seem to suffer serious reliability problems, but by an amazing coincidence, the one's they buy with their own money, or work to fix themselves, seem to be much more reliable vehicles.
  • I am a women and have no idea why I get a ping sound when I idle for gas. I have tried better gas and fuel injector. I need help. I have only 13,000 miles. Truck was used at summer home. I changed spark plugs and 2 were not even getting spark. That helped the jumping.I know this truck as alot of sensors. Can anyone help.
    Thanks
  • I found the little rubber hose on the valve cover. I also found my manual and it says that there's not a replacement part for the PCV valve. I looked on the engine and sure enough, the valve seems to be a permanent fixture (as in built into the cover). I thank you anyway for your assistance.
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    There is no PCV valve on the 98 S-10 2.2
    Which would explain why you couldn't find it.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    The pcv valve is located in the front left hand side of the valve cover, facing from front, just below the throttle cable and plastic cover.

    Note the hump on the valve cover. It's inside. I did replace mine on a 97.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    the 98+ 2.2,it has no pcv valve just an orifice and an oil separator built into the valve cover.
This discussion has been closed.