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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • it'll take it! how long and heavy is your trailer
  • i need parts for a five speed and actually the five speed that backs the 4.3 fi
  • I've got a 97 S-10 with 187K on it. I've replaced the trans after carrying a load in OD. Use 3 gear when carrying 1000 lbs or more. I put air shots on it and raised the rear end about 2". In doing that I developed a rattle between 22-28 mph. Now have oil leak in rear end. Not sure if its realated to air shocks or 187K catching up on it.
    One of the best trucks I've ever owned. 2.2 Liter gets good gas mileage. 27 on high and about 20 city. She will never win a race, but she always been there.
    Too bad they retired the S-10. Those new Mid size trucks are junk.
  • I have a 1999 S-10. the left side tailgate cable broke. I bought a new one, but can't pull the latch out of the tailgate because there is tension on the latch. The latch is hooked to the tailgate handle. How to I replace this latch without destroying the tailgate?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Document ID# 390324

    1999 Chevrolet/Geo S10 Pickup - 2WD

    Support Cable Replacement - Endgate (Pickup)

     

    Removal Procedure

    Safely support the endgate in the open position.

    Remove the bolts that retain the endgate supports to the endgate.

    Remove the endgate supports from the vehicle.

     

    Installation Procedure

    Install the endgate supports to the vehicle.

    Install the bolts that retain the endgate supports to the vehicle.

    Tighten the bolts to 2.8 N·m (25 lb in).

    Install the bolts that retain the endgate supports to the endgate.

    Tighten the bolts to 2.8 N·m (25 lb in).
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Your post is confusing, first you mention broken cable, then handle and latch. The cable is attached with 2 bolts. Save your cable receipt, a recall is being looked into at this time.
  • hello hope that you are happy with this truck i have a 2002 4x4 truck and now the problems are adding up it has 60,000 miles on it first differential problems and now the transfer case has gone out boy talk about money problems . about better gas milage change the air filter under the hood and that will help your gas milage a whole lot .
  • yhello i hate to tell you this but it could be the transfer case or the differentail in the rear of it i own a 2002 4x4 crew cab and now the problems are adding up
  • hello i own a 2002 chevy s10 crew cab 4x4 pickup and i have never had problems like this hope somebody can help first the rear balol bearings went out so i replaced them and now the transfer case has gone out and when i call ed the dealership to see if it was under warranty of course they said no i only have 60,000 miles on it don't anybody use 100,000 mile warranty on things like this any more so now i, pulling my hair out cause seems like every time i turn around something tears up on it somebody pleaser give me some answers of what is going on
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    The wheel bearing problem is a common problem on the 4 wheel drive S10. On the 2 wheel drive models, the wheel bearings are greased and repacked with a brake service. On the 4 wheel drive models, I believe the wheel bearings are self-contained and are supposed to be lubed for the life of the vehicle. Unfortunately, the bearings usually go between 60 and 100 thousand miles. I would check your owners manual to ensure that no periodic service is required for the wheel bearings. Good luck!
  • I recently bought a used 2002 GMC Sonoma Crew Cab 4x4. The truck is loaded and the mileage and price were right. The only problem is that the Gas mileage sucks. Really sucks. I thing the truck is getting like 12mpg. Runs great but eats gas. Anybody got any suggestions. I am switching to AMSOIL and an AMSOIL air filter soon. I hope that will help.
  • kimo2kimo2 Posts: 1
    i have a question for you all should my truck have any problems starting if the EGR VACUUM CTRL SOLENOID is no working i noticed that one of the outlets the hose connects onto was cracked so stupid me played round with it and it snapped clean off now it wont seem to start .
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    There is a strong possibility that it won't start. Did you try to tape or re-attach it temporarily and then try to start (electrical tape my hold it long enough for a start)? Is the engine cranking or is it totally dead?

     

    The problem may be that since you engine is not sensing a vacuum signal from EGR, or pulling too much vacuum, it won't start. Don't believe the EGR is electronically controlled. What year and engine type?
  • I was wanting to put a 2-3" drop on my truck but i was wondering if all the lowering kits are universal. by universal i mean through all years because i would hate to spend $150 on a lowering kit when i can spend alot cheaper else where. any information is welcome. THANKS
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    is to get a copy of Truckin' or Mini Truckin' magazine - they have gillions of vendors, and you can figure out the best way to do your drop. My advice is to stick with named brand components, like Bell-Tech or Rancho, to avoid cheesy equipment with no manufacturer support.
  • I have a 95 S10 vortech V6 engine code W 2 wheel drive I bough used Its been a good truck up until now. I took it to a place and had them run a diagnostic on it they told me it was the fuel injector. I then replaced it still running rough. It sounds like it has a miss or miss firing. I took one of those code readers it told me the air temp sensor was bad replaced that but still no help then I got the check engine back and ran the check again and the new code is P1406. Can anyone help me with this problem.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    P1406 = Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Performance

     

    Remove the EGR valve and make sure the pintle's not being held open with a crumb of carbon. If it is, it can cause a rough idle and the P1406 code.
  • Got a question for all ya... I have a 2001 4.3 ltr zr2. Every 30-45 days I begin to hear a severe altenator noise from the stereo even if the stereo is off. This is then proceeded by the truck going dead once I shut off the engine. No power... I can jump the truck and it then starts to freak out, the gauges start fluctuating, every light on the dash starts to blink and ding, the head lights will go out and back on or the truck will die. I can then start the truck but it will sputter and die. What I have tried to remedy: cleaned terminals, replaced the battery, replaced the altenator. Once I do this I get another 30-45 days before the process starts again? Any Ideas???
  • Yo! I am having this exact same problem on my 01 ZR2 except for I can get mine to start... Here is what not to replace: battery, main wiring harness, altenator. I replaced all of those without change. In order to get my truck to start I have to re-seat all the connections to my altenator and battery and any other connections I can get to without removing the batter tray... It lasts about a week before I can't start my truck without the portable jump... Let me know if you find a fix cause I have tried all I can think of. Thanks
  • Both you guys need to learn DIAGNOSTIC ELECTRICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING or else take it to a mechanic who knows electrical diagnosis. You have found out that you can waste a lot of time and money by not knowing what you are doing. You can throw parts at it all day long, and plug and unplug connectors all day long, but it won't do you much good if you don't get to the root of the problem. You need to start out with a 12 volt test light and a digital multimeter and check all wiring for Power, Continuity, Resistance and Voltage Drop and use logical electrical troublshooting techniques. You need to know the fundamentals of electricity and the application of the ohms law formulas. E=IXR, I=E/R, R=E/I You may need a wiring diagram of your vehicle. You might be better off to take it to a mechanic. It could be one of several possible things wrong, but most likely is a loose electrical connection. You need to check all the wiring starting at the battery and work you way out, checking connections at the starter, check fusable links, check power distribution boxes, check ground wire at battery, check ground wire at chasis and at engine. Good Luck fellas.
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Educated guess. Ignition switch. Pretty common in this series vehicles. Take to a dealer or good mechanic and ask them to check for this. Might save some money by steering them in the right direction, if this is actually the right direction.
  • Hi Folks, my 2001 S10 CrewCab w/ 33K miles (3.25yrs old) has been in 6 times now for 4WD problems. Last winter at 20K miles (Lemon Law + 2K) the 4HI setting wouldn't engage. The dealer fixed the TCCM (transfer case control module) terminals, then replaced the TCCM. Also at that time the gas gauge would drop from 1/2 to empty then recover, they replaced the Fuel Level Sensor. Also they replaced 4 O2 sensors then finally the 'stuck' thermostat and coolant temp sensor to fix a check engine light that kept coming back in a week. Also they couldn't duplicate the dash lights reseting wile driving down the road (its only done it a couple times since).

    This winter the 4WD failed first snowfall, they replaced the TCCM twice, fixed the wiring twice, and today replaced the encoder motor and dash switches. Is it me or are these guys clueless? I scanned for similar problems on the web but no luck. GM was no help, but said I 'could try' another dealer. Oh, and the gas gauge drops out again! I love my S10, but this is just wrong. Sound at all familiar ?
  • Hi, I'm going to rent s-10 for moving, and want to check if its bed can hold a queen size mattress? Thanks.
  • I HAVE A 94 S-10 107,000. FIRST OF MY PROBLEMS WAS.MY ENGINE WOULDNT TURN. SO I TOOK IT TO MY MECH AND HE REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP ON GAS TANK. THEN IT STLL WOULD NOT START, SO THEN HE SAYS THE FUEL INJECTOR WAS PLUGGED..I REPLACED THAT.IT FINALLY STARTED ,BUT THEN,THE SPEEDOMETER WOULDNT MOVE AT ALL AND THE ABS LIGHT STAYED ON. HE RESET THE COMPUTER. AND IT WAS FINALLY FIXED..NOT..I DROVE IT FOR ABOUT 5 DAYS AND THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT ON AND IT DROVE VERY ROUGH..IVE HAD THE EGR VALVE REPLACED.IM AT MY WITS END .SO FAR I HAVE A NEW BATTERY,ALTERNATOR,EGR,INJECTOR,FUEL PUMP.WHAT DID I MISS..PLEASE HELP!!! ALSO THERE WAS A ROTTEN EGG SMELL..THANK YOU ESTHER

                               ESTHER
  • Please turn your caps lock off. I can hear you screaming from way over here.
  • 84s1084s10 Posts: 1
    I am the original owner of an '84 S-10, 2.8 liter V6, 5 sp, pick-up, 175,000 miles. Its been a terrific pick-up, very little problems.

     

    The throttle light came on 2 days ago about 2 miles from home and the idle started racing and wouldn't go back to normal. I parked it when I got home and have not driven it since then.

     

    I had to jump start it today. The throttle light is still lit and the idle still races but not as high as the other day.

     

    I've been doing some reading and it seems to point to the TPS sensor, distributor or clogged fuel line filter. I did put some fuel line cleaner in the tank earlier the same day the problem occurred.

     

    Anyone experience this problem and have an idea to what the root of the problem is?
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    Would check the TPS first. The pintle should be extended approx. 28mm (1.10 inch) from the base of the housing (it's shown in many repair manuals for the 2.8/3.1). Unplug it, clean it then place it back into the throttle body. If the pintle is out of position, the engine will race. I suggest this since it's a snap to do.

     

    Next you can check the fuel pressure with a gauge, hooked to the schrader (spelling?) valve on the fuel rail. Not sure the exact pressure, again, verify with a chilton's manual from the library or online. Again, something very easy to do, some auto-parts will even check it for you.
  • Anyone know the best way to replace a broken hazard warning switch on a 1995 S-10 pick-up? I snapped off the old one installing my son's radio. I purchased the replacement switch from the dealer, but can't figure out how to get all the plastic shroud off from around the steering colum. The bottom half comes off with no problem, but I can't figure out what is still holding the top half in place? I've seen some posts about taking a Dremel and enlarging the hole on the top of the steering column and replacing the button without removing the plastic, but I'd like to keep the plastic intact if at all possible. Thanks in advance for any help!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The upper cover is held on with 2 Torx screws.
  • I've had the same problem with the 4HI. The first time it went, the Chevy garage told me the computer lost it's mind and needed to be reprogrammed. That didn't give me a warm fuzzy but I had no choice but to accept it. 3 weeks ago, the same thing happened. The killer is, that I may use 4wd, maybe 5 times the entire year. Seems like there is a bit more of an issue with it, than meets the eye. I'm sure, now that it's out of warranty, I'll find out the real problem and pay dearly. I'll let you know when I find out.
This discussion has been closed.