Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • rrtaz1rrtaz1 Posts: 1
    I have 1999 S-10 with 70,000 miles. So far everything is working ok for now. The only thing that I have problems with is a graining sounds when I hit the brakes. Its not the brakes but I think its the wheel bearing. Other than that all is well. I changed my oil every month and half no matter how many miles I put on it. I never hit over 3000 miles before oil change. I average about 2500 miles.
  • Purchased an 89 S10 Long bed with a 4.3L V6 that had 29k on it when I bought. 5 years later it now has 56K on the odometer. The truck spent its early years near the ocean in Rhode Island so it has some rust on it but is in good shape overall. I think that the Heater Core needs to be replaced since the windows started to fog up or better yet they misted up. The question that I have: Is the Heater core a DIY replacement for someone who is a maple shade mechanic or should I leave it to a regular mechanic? The truck also has AC which is not working right now. The other thing is I would have to wait till it warms up around here. Can someone give me a hint as to how hard it would be to attempt it myself. Is it done from the engine compartment or do I have to take the Dash apart? The Chilton manual that I have doesn't even mention the Heater core. Thanks for any clues
  • markw8markw8 Posts: 25
    Chevy heater cores especially with air are a bear.My son's 96 the flat rate was over 6 hours,and it comes out from inside. mark
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    All you need to know here, you can do this yourself but you'll need some patience. ater_core.php&dir=climate_controls
  • markw8markw8 Posts: 25
    It sounds like the older ones are easier. Mark.
  • I have a 2002 S10 2.2L and I cant figure out why my highest setting (#4)went out on me all of a sudden. I've changed the fan switch and the relay on the firewall. I put a multi-tester up to the fan and I lose power at the #4 setting. 1 thru 3 work fine? I also checked fuses! At a lost! I only have 48K on it. Is it still under warranty?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    I'm looking at the wiring circuit schematic for it. Got an email address?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check your email.
  • I have a 2000 S10 4.3V6, once in a while it wont start. By this I mean it'll turn over sometimes then stall or I will turn the key and get no reply but the dash lights coming on. What I do is turn the key while pushing the gas then sit there with my foot on the gas for a little bit and then start going, but sometimes after Ive done this while im driving my dash lights will flash up and the truck tries to stall. I have my guesses but could use help.
  • Alcan, Thanks for the for the email. After looking over diagram and checking all the resistances I noticed there was a 30a fuse in the circuit. I went to owners manual and found it under my hood. And guess what? It was blown! Everything working great now! Thanks for your help! Dan
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome. Glad to hear you sorted it out.
  • If any one can help me. I just put a new transmission in my S-10 it is automatic 4x4 and 2.8 I tis going from first to second to third to fast and someone said it may be my modulator valve. I don't know what that is or where that is. My husband dosn't know much about transmissions either. if any one could describe where and what i do i waould appreciate it. thank you Martha
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    What year is it, overdrive or 3 speed?
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Probably not a modulator valve on this trans. Should have a "TV" cable under the hood near the throttle cable on the throttle body. May have been unhooked or not adjusted correctly. Has to be adjusted right or bad for transmission. Best to take back to mechanic and have it looked at.
  • I'm sorry the year of my S-10 is an 83 it is a very sharp truck still in great shape and i would love to have it back on the road. It does have overdrive. And a machanic didn't put it in we did and we bought it at a transmission shop with a short warranty. there is only one way to put one in right? or did we screw something up?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It's an early 700R-4 transmission and doesn't have a modulator. As was mentioned, it has a throttle valve cable or TV cable. If the TV cable is broken, sticking, misadjusted, or if an incorrect part is installed for the model, the vehicle may exhibit various malfunctions such as no upshift delay or full throttle shifts. TV cable adjustment is also critical for transmission oil pressure control. If disconnected or misadjusted, it can cause transmission failure due to clutch or band slippage.

    Here's the adjustment procedure if you want to take a kick at it yourself. Takes about 10 seconds after you've done it once:

    Preliminary Checks

    Inspect and/or correct the transmission fluid level.
    Make sure that the cable is connected at both ends.
    Make sure that the correct cable is installed.

    If necessary for access, remove the air cleaner assembly.
    If the cable has been removed and installed, pull on the upper end of the cable. It should travel a short distance with light resistance caused by the small return spring on the TV lever. When released, check to see that the cable slider returns to the zero or the fully adjusted position; if not, adjust the cable and slider:

    Depress and hold the metal readjust tab on the end of the TV cable. It might require application of penetrating oil to free it up, but should depress under thumb pressure.
    Move the slider back on the cable (away from the throttle lever) until it stops against the fitting.
    Release the readjust tab.
    Slowly rotate the throttle lever by hand (DO NOT use the accelerator pedal) to the full throttle stop (wide open throttle) position. The slider must move (ratchet) toward the lever in order to adjust the cable when the lever is rotated.
    Release the throttle lever and check for proper operation.

    The throttle valve cable adjustment should be rechecked with the engine at normal operating temperature. A cable may appear to function properly while the engine is cold, but not work properly when warmed.
  • cfcuecfcue Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 extended cab 4WD ZR2 truck - 65k. I see from this board that handles breaking are a common problem. Both of mine broke off within 3 weeks of each other. The parts are $80 per side and the dealer wants $150 per side to put them on. For the whopping total of $400(including tax). Seems excessive for friggin' handles, eh?

    Can this be done by an average joe?? The dealer says "no". I'd be interested to hear how other have dealt with this issue.

    The dealer says this item has a "high failure rate" but I can't get them to come down on the price of fixing it.

    Also, I've had the ball joint problem, oil leak from the hose that runs from the oil filter, loose exhaust heat sheild, and my 3rd door handle has broken off 3 times (luckily I can replace that myself). Everyone told me I should've bought a toyota - but I REALLY liked the idea of buying american and the looks of the s-10.
  • zr2randozr2rando Posts: 391
    I had My truck getting aligned at Merchants and that seat tilt handle broke, somebody there used it and wasn't carefull I guess.
    They paid for it and had a guy put the new one on for me.
    He said it took a few minutes but nothing too bad.
    Spoke to the manager about 2-3 months later and he admitted that they broke one on his truck too.
    Seems to be weak design, just be carefull with them...
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Document ID# 615860
    2000 Chevrolet/Geo S10 Pickup - 4WD

    Seat Back Recliner Handle Replacement

    Removal Procedure

    Remove the retainer clip using a flat-bladed tool.
    Remove the recliner handle from the seat bottom.

    Installation Procedure

    Install the recliner handle to the seat bottom.
    Install the retainer clip in order to secure the handle.
This discussion has been closed.