Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

walt03

As far as I know the coils that I have are the same as OE. The wires that I had put on the truck were 8mm accel . they were worse than OE. I will try and find a higher ohm wire also! Thanks for the help. any other ideas???

farmboy5

every time i drive my 1988 s10 pickup longbed, the rearend makes a loud thumping sound. can anyone help me?

landonkyker

I have a 98 Chev S-10. The truck began jumping every once and a while. It progressively got worse and it would die on me in the middle of 12:00 Downtown Dallas traffic! It used to start back up, but now I cannot even drive it due to the stopping and not being able to start it back up. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran fine for 2 weeks. But, it started back and now it is undriveable. Is there junk in my gas tank, or is my fuel pump leaking? Any ideas? Thanks!

sedalia

2001 Sonoma SLS 4wd ExtCab 58000miles: Can't believe that already I have to replace the left and right front wheel hub assemblies and ball joints - and the e-coder motor for the electronic transfer case. Seems that a Professional Grade Truck should last longer. And no, I don't use the vehicle off-road an awful lot nor do I abuse it. Must admit we use this vehicle for our weekly trips from Denver to the ski resorts which usually have boogered-up parking lots, and to various out-of-the-way streams and ponds fishing. Still - Seems early from a wear and tear standpoint, no ? This really bugs me. Although I have to admit that I like the truck even though the cab has become too small for the three of us in our family; thatI had constant problems with the fuel gauge (very annoying); and geez what's up with this: the under-dash gets so danged hot that it burns my feet in the summertime. We baby this vehicle as we do with all of our vehicles, regular maintainance etc. Phooey.

mattv1

can someone tell me where to find the brown wire you disconnect to set the timing on an 89 with a 2.5 4 cyl. I have looked everywhere

dgalligan

400lb in the box. 200 by each wheel well and the truck will ride and corner as good as it will get.

dgalligan

I had an 88 and I think it was in the glove box or in the area just below it.

dgalligan

I have the same problem with my 2000. On mine if I push the seat all the way back with the back folded forward it will lock in and be ok. If it is not locked this way the seat will slide back and fourth. I don't know of a fix.

alcan

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Key on, engine off fuel pressure specs are 55-61 p.s.i.

jasleep

I have a 1992 Chevy S10 that has been sitting in
the woods for the past 4-5 yrs. It's four wheel drive with a 4.3 liter v6 engine automatic trans
i put a brand new battery in it and plugs and wires.
i poured trans fluid in the spark plug holes to loosen the rings. let it set for 14 hours turned it
over put plugs back in then tried to fire it up and the darn thing acts like its not getting spark. Any
suggestions? Thanks.


Jason

alcan

My info says that with an '89 2.5L, put it into field service mode by jumpering ALDL terminals A and B with a paper clip to set timing. Read steps 5, 6, and 7:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/12/a4/c9/09- - 00823d8012a4c9.jsp

mattv1

I appreciate all the help yall gave. I just couldnt seem to find that wire. Guess mine isnt equipped with it.

motbone

I have a 98 4cyl sonoma and a couple months ago I received a "special bulletin" saying some sonomas might have problems with a piece of the inner lining of the front exhaust pipe might break off and tumble into the catalic converter causing either a rattling noise and/or lose of power and illumination of the MIL. What my truck would do is I'd be driving and all of the sudden all my gauges would bounce, all my lights on my information display would blink and my truck would cut out. It normally would start back up but my MIL would still stay on and the problem would happen again shortly after. Sometimes if I leave it sit for a half a day or so the light would turn off. I had taken my truck to a GMC dealer and they replaced basically my whole exhaust. Only a couple of weeks later, the exact same thing started happening again. So if anyone could drop a few hints, that would help a poor college student out.

mattv1

hey al how am I sure which terminal is a and b. I have abook but my aldl terminal doesnt have the same amount of plugs in it. I read the steps u told me to I just want to make sure before I fry my computer

jpf

Unfortunately, wheel bearings and ball joints are frequent problems on 4WD S10's and Sonomas. Also, look out for leaking oil cooler lines and intake manifold gasket. These two problems usually occur after 3 or 4 years. Best of luck with your truck.

alcan

95 was a crossover year for GM. Some units had the newer OBD II connector. Does your data link look like the 12 pin one at the top of this page:
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/

or this 16 pin one:
http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/

Mr_Shiftright

Your engine might like synthetic and I can't see any harm in using it; however, I also can't see much good in using it unless you are driving under extremes of some sort----like: extreme cold starting (Alaska), extreme heat (Arizona), heavy towing and especially racing on the track (not likely in your case).

There's no good proof out there that it extends engine life for normal drivers in normal cars despite claims you will here to the contrary. It MAY be true but there's no proof out there that very convincing.

As for "improving gas mileage", another claim you will here, all the testing I've read seem to indicate that you shouldn't count on more than say 3% better fuel mileage. If that's worth it for you, then there's a reason to use it right there.

jpf

If you're changing the oil at 2500-3000 mile intervals I don't think it will make much difference by switching to synthetic. I would be more concerned with the typical problems associated with this engine. The oil cooler lines and intake manifold gasket tend to leak. I have a 2000 S10 with the same engine and 78,000 miles. A few months ago I had to replace both. Otherwise, I suggest you stay the course with your regular maintenance schedule. I have heard of many people getting 250 to 300 thousand miles out of this engine. Good luck.

sedalia

Thanks. Turns out the bad de-coder motor was a false alarm. The electronic switches simply started working properly on that thing. I suspect that during the diagnosis procedure "something happened" or, who knows? I was just happy to see that the Electronic Transfer Case wasn't working, then was. I wonder now if there is a fuse for that thing, because I never thought to check that. In any case - Saved over $500. Maybe the dealer was just zooming me, do you suppose that ever happens? Wound up replacing the front shocks, hub assemblies and upper/lower bearings at a Big O who were properly equipped. Also changed the fluids in the back and front differentials and the transfer case. So, bring on the snows! Will keep an eye on the oil cooler lines and gasket.

mattv1

its the 12 pin one. I tried to jump it and set the timing but as soon as I pull the jumper out it idles abck up and the timing runs up to around 14 to 16 degrees tdc. am i doing something wrong. i replaced all the sensors and still have spark knock. wondering if i can set the timing below tdc and see if that works

edk5

I just put new brake pads in the front of my S10 and lost the brake pedal. I have a good pedal when the truck is not running but not pedal when I start it up. This happened the last time I put pads in but didn't last long, now I can't get it back. I bleed the front calipers and the master cylinder and still no pedal when the truck it running only when it is shut off.

Thanks for any help.
Ed

mattv1

sounds to me like you still have air in the lines somewhere. Try bleeding the back first then the front

Mr_Shiftright

What did you do about the rotten fuel in the gas tank? You may have to deal with this.

ethan_black

I have a 1997 GMC Sonoma and I am having a hard time getting the Starter out it won't come out the bottom and I have a hard time getting it out it is a Starter Cylinoid combination starter and it won't fit I hope I don't have to remove the oilpan is this the thing I will have to do?

ahopson

HELP, I'm really stuck! My 1990 S-10 has gotten to where it has to be cranked for about 10 seconds before it fires up, when it's first started. Then it spits and sputters a little for a few seconds, finally smoothing out and running fine...... as long as it's moving. But that's not the main problem. Once it's warmed up and then turned off, it won't re-start. Turns over OK, but won't start. Also, if it's allowed to idle for a short time, even at a traffic light, it will die and not re-start. Once it sits and cools off, it will start again. I've narrowed it down to a fuel problem. It getting fuel to the injector, the injector test OK, but the injector won't pulse when the engine is heat soaked. If the engine is still warm and it does try to re-start, I have to vigorously pump the accelerator to get it going. Also, there are no problem codes showing up.

driveitdead

Why is it that all the parts stores show a pcv valve for the 98+ 2.2? Even haynes manuals say it has one. I don't think the engine has one either, so why do they list it? :confuse:

gonogo

Most all the aftermarket manuals are slow to update or don’t even bother. You need the factory information to get up to date data.
All the GM PCV valves are metal cased, so I can look at where the hose goes into the valve cover and tell if it has orifice or PCV valve.

alcan

This what you're looking for?:

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8018aa8a.gif

jpf

You should get better mileage than that. I have a 2000 S10 with over 78,000 miles. I get 22-23 mpg on the highway and 17-19 mpg in the city. Two frequently overlooked maintenance items are replacing the fuel filter (every 20,000 miles) and tire pressure. Check your tire pressure at least once a month. Also, fuel mileage is dependent on driving habits. I don't accelerate rapidly unless absolutely necessary. Good luck.

sal67

I have a '95 4.3, 4x4, no AC, sometimes my heater throws a ton of heat, other times it barely warms up. I have replaced the radiator, thermostat, heater core, water pump and other parts. I do not even turn the temp lever and the heat level changes. Does anyone have any ideas that could help me?

200k

My beloved S15 is hurting ...she's old and tired but dear to my heart, and owes me not a dime. Anybody else still have one? I have specific ? re fuel pump relay and pulling the tank, pump and sender. Appreciate any help.

mattv1

have done everything and still have spark knock and I dont think that I got it in time. Have looked for the est wire, cant find it. Jumped a&b terminal, got it to 0 degrees. Does anyone know what the timing degrees are supposed to be. The label on mine is gone and I dont know what to set it at

cusackm

First,your truck should be getting much better mileage than that. It should really be getting about 20 to 21 all the time. I have heard from several people that have owned s-10s and blazers that they normally get about 16 mpg. My personal experience is that the fuel economy of my truck is inconsistent. I could drive the hell out of it and get over 23 sometimes and then sometimes get 19. I could drive it easy and I would get the same variances in economy. For me, driving on a long trip at high speed (80-90+) reduces mileage to about 19. Anyway, heres something to try: change your oil. I mean the brand of oil you use. When I bought my truck 4 years and 1xx,000 miles ago, I used Mobil 1 in it for a little over a year and I got 19-20 mpg. ...And then I started I started going to college and decided I couldn't afford that anymore so I started using regular oil and I got 2-3 mpg better. Havoline 10w-30 seems to work the best. If you find out why your truck is getting bad mileage, please post it here. My truck has started slipping recently to about 19-20 mpg. I dont know if it just getting old (currently has 185k) or if it needs a new sensor or two.

Mike

cusackm

I replaced my ball joints about 60k miles ago and they have been needing replacement again for some time now. My question is does anyone know if there is a brand that doesn't wear out so quickly or are superior to other brands? A friend of mine recommended Moog suspension parts. Thanks in advance for any advice.\

Mike

alcan

Moog or TRW.

driveitdead

Thanks for the info link, but thats the older valve cover style. My 99' 2.2 has the plain smooth valve cover with just the vent nipple that connects to the hose on the air intake resonator box. There are no other ports or outlets on it, so unless chevy decided to try putting the pcv somewhere else ( No idea why they would other than to round out the 2.2's sheer crappiness.) it just does not have one. Thanks again for the response. :shades:

gonogo

On the 98 and up the oil seperator is built into the valve cover.

coolchris1981

I have a 200 chevrolet s-10. It consists of the 4.3 liter V6.I have had a problem with the map sensor. The engine has a mis fire when this sensor is pugged in. When the sensor is unplugged it runs fine. Now I believe the manifold sensor is leaking and causing this sensor to go bad.Am I correct or not?What do you believe is the problem

coolchris1981

jh1956

I have recently aquired a 1995 S-10 with a 2.2 that has a rod thrown through the oil pan and am being told that the only 2.2 that will fit this. I have looked at other 2.2's and they look the same. Is this true that a 1995 is the only one that will fit?

alcan

Looks like 94 to 96 fits, according to the Hollander interchange guide. There's 4 pages of them here:

http://www.car-part.com/index.htm

resengr

I never know when my 1990 S-15 ignition is going to engage. Sometimes only a click, usually a second try works fine. Is it in the switch or the starter or elsewhere? What should be my diagnostic steps? Thanks for listening.

canufixit

1990 huh?? The FIRST thing I'd do - is remove and clean wire brush the "at battery" connections, the negative cable to the block connection and also, especially, all the connections on the starter/starter solenoid. Do this first. Also "feel" and look at ALL the cables for cuts, "bumps" (Corrosion inside the cables,) etc. ... Replace as needed. Then check the battery with a volt meter - 10 to 12 volts with the engine off - and about 2 - 4 volts higher with the engine running. I've helped many persons that insist in replacing parts (Starter, Solenoid, slave solenioids, etc.) only to later have them ask me for help - and all I do is clean the connections to fix the problem .... If above fails - I'd either replace the starter and Solenoid - or better yet - take it to Sears (or oher) for a quick Battery/generator test (Sometimes it real losw cost or free .) ....

Good Luck

Canufixit

jh1956

Thank You

alcan

You're welcome. Good luck with it.

markshuman

I have a 98 S10, 4.3 V6, TBI.with about 70K miles on it.Recently, it has been hard to start when warmed up. I usually have to press the gas pedal down a bit to get it to start.When it's cold ,such as first time starting that day, it cranks right up, which it would do before at any time. Also, I'd like to know how you're supposed to change the middle spark plug on the driver's side. The dang steering wheel shaft runs right in front of it. Gotta love them design engineers,huh? Glad I found this forum, learned a good bit already. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,

montana56

hey folks. I have read some reports on the P0410 code but it seems that I can't find what causes the actual problem. I have found a number of expensive solutions but can anyone help out with a longterm cure. I live in montana with low smog standards but I don't care for the CES light to be on. any help is appreciated thanks

alcan

P0410 = Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction

It's usually an air pump seized after sucking water in through the air intake.

luthershot

my 2000 s10 with a 2.2L will have the rpms increase to around 3500 after ive been driving around 65mph for an extended period of time, when i shut the truck off it goes back to normal. I think its a problem with the injectors. any info would be greatly appreciated

lgia

Hi

My son was just told that his 96 S-10 2x2 4 cyl with 40K miles needs the clutch replaced. The quote for the work is 1000.00 which seems outrageously high to me

He had a problem getting it into gear. The mechanic said the fluid was completely empty. He said it may just be the hydraulics but he won't be able to tell until he gets the transmission in order to know for sure (450.00 for labor). Does this sound right? My son is 2 hours away at college and I don't know what to tell him to do.

Is it possible that he can just fill the fluid back up and drive it back here 125 miles so I can get it to a mechanic I know or would that be asking for trouble. Any help would be greatly appreciated.