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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • turtle4turtle4 Posts: 1
    I would like to know if you found out what the problem was. I am having the same problem that you described. I have a 99 S-10 ext. cab. So far I have taken my truck to a small shop and after 3 days they don't know whats causing the vibration and growling noise. I have also taken it to my local Chevy dealer and after 5 different techs and 4 hours of trouble shooting they can't tell me where the noise is coming from. Help, Help

    Thanks
    Rich
  • tinpercinttinpercint Posts: 1
    Use duct tape, works every time! :P
  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    We have an 02 Chevy S10 ZR2. We had a hissing sound coming from the air controller at about 20000 brought it in and they said the seals were bad. Probably 15000 miles later the hissing sounds was back. Brought it in and same problem. The dealer said it was the vacuum lines sucking in antifreeze and the antifreeze was eating the seals. So they replace all the vacuum lines. Then about 30000 miles later (when the warranty was no more) hissing again! Brought it back to the same dealer and they replaced all the lines again free (because it wasn't fixed right the first 2 times). So far no hissing noise, but I'm not holding my breath.

    Was the grinding noise behind the dash intermittent? We have that too but our dealer couldn't reproduce it because it only does it occasionally.
  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    I have '02 ZR2 with 77,000 miles on it.

    Problem #1 Just recently the power driver side window goes down just fine but has an extremely difficult time closing. Sometimes you press the button to close it and nothing happens. Other times it goes up very slow. Any suggestions?

    Problem # 2 The truck was in 4 wheel drive low then begin making an awful grinding noise. The only thing that would make it stop grinding was turning the car off. Then when it was restarted the truck won't even attempt to put it in 4W high or low.

    And just for kicks the handle to the 3rd door broke on us last weekend when we were moving. Couple this with air controller hissing problem in which the dealer replaces the vacuum lines twice. This makes me never want to buy another chevy again, especially when we have a 95 Nissan 240SX with 220,000 miles on it and the only thing we've had to do on it other than maintainence is change the starter.
  • novadudenovadude Posts: 4
    Could also be that your egr is stuck open,,, Checking for fuel from injectors can be done by looking down the throttle body while you crank it using a remote starter switch,, there is a way to jumper a wire on the aldl to get the pump to cycle as well,, Do you hear the pump cycle when you turn on the key? Is there a schraeder valve to check the pressure? Hope this helps,
  • chevygalchevygal Posts: 2
    I also have a 98 S-10 with only 120,000 miles. Wouldn't start last month. We replaced the fuel filter module in the fuse box (it was burnt on one side).
    2 days ago: it would not start - again. We replaced the module a second time thinking something electrical was shorting them out. Still wouldn't start.
    Yesterday: Had it towed to the garage. Still wouldn't start.
    Today: Once they started to hook it up to the scope, it started and has been running every since.

    Your problem sounds very similar to what we are going through with ours.
    Have you discovered what the problem is yet?
    We don't know whether to start with the electrical or the fuel system. :sick:
  • spidey1spidey1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 ZR2 got new in May of 2003. Got a cap in Dec 03 and an alarm summer of 04. Purchashed a trailer fall of 04 and have nothing but problems with the passenger side rear blinker not wanting to work. 1st couple of times it was the bulb then the trailer harness on the truck was corrided badley. Now I just don't know. The bulbs I have do work but the blinker still does not want to. Anyone with any suggestions please let me know, for this is getting pretty frustrating.
  • reptileschreptilesch Posts: 3
    Thanks for the tips guys, I've tried the starting fluid, and still there is nothing.... Short of buying a comprsion tester, I think it's not getting compression. Any one want to buy it...lol
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Hi,

    Not sure if this helps .... but ...

    I think there is as procedure in your manual to manually dis-engage from 4 low to hi gear ... Perhaps if you try that - it will get you into 4/2 hi for now ...

    Also, there is a TSB on the 3rd door handle ... below ...

    Door (Third) - Hard to Open/Handle Breakage

    File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

    Bulletin No.: 02-08-64-007

    Date: March, 2002

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:
    Third Door Hard to Open and/or Handle Breakage
    (Adjust Lock Rods)

    Models:
    1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Extended Cab Pickup Models (S-10, Sonoma)

    Condition

    Some customers may comment that the third door is hard to open and/or the door handle may be broken.

    Cause

    The lock rods may be improperly adjusted.

    Correction

    Adjust the lock rods using the following procedure:

    1. Remove the door trim.

    2. Release both lock rod rods from the lock rod retainers.





    3. Position the upper lock rod first. Refer to arrow in illustration. Position the lock rod in the retainer so that there is 10 to 12 mm (0.39 to 0.47 in) (Approximately 11-12 threads showing) from the end of the lock rod.

    Important :Make sure the upper striker is not bound against the latch. If this happens, you must push the door inboard to release the latch. To correct a bound latch, adjust the striker until the striker is centered with the latch.

    4. Position the lower lock rod in the retainer where it rests, usually 5.0 to 6 mm (0.19 to 0.23 in) of threads from the end of the rod after the upper lock rod is locked in place.

    5. Install the door trim.


    Disclaimer
  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    Thanks a lot! I think that is exactly our problem with the door. It was always hard to open until the day it snapped. Once we get the new part we will definitely try that!

    I will check out the manual on the 4W drive low tonight. Is there a way I can search for TSBs myself?
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    HI,

    I posted an earlier message concerning this - so take a look/search. In summary - for about 15 - ~ $19 PER vehicle you can get access to a LOT of the schematics, diagrams, TSB's, recalls, etc., etc. Go to alldata.com and go the the DIY section ...

    http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

    Good Luck !!
    Canufixit
  • jake7gjake7g Posts: 4
    try the relays. There are usually two on the firewall for the fuel pump. If the relay is bad the fuel pump will not engage. You msut replace both relays when you replace them. You can see if they are the problem by jumping them. You can take a wire and put it from one pin to another and it should engage the fuel pump. Without seeing your relays I couldn't tell you which pins though.
  • jake7gjake7g Posts: 4
    also trouble shoot the relays. They may be bad and are preventing the fuel pump from engaging.
  • morgan1339morgan1339 Posts: 1
    My 95 S10 2.2 will start nicely and idle rather bad, But when i accelerate it starts running really rough and will not accelerate then it will completely shut down making a roaring sound.I noticed the back fuel injector is leaking gas...Can someone help me with this
    :P
  • stylesstyles Posts: 1
    Youre problem lies most likley in youre computer. 99+ vortecs used VATS wich makes the truck not start without the correct key. Change youre computer to a 96-97 computer and I bet it starts. You can also have the computer reprogrammed but it costs 300$ or more. You can get a cheap computer from a local junkyard for around 100-200.
  • vortecownsvortecowns Posts: 1
    hey, i recently bought an '03 s10 with 5k miles. i go to college in rochester ny, and was wondering how the brakes on the ls 2wd are in the winter. i always assumed the truck had discs in the front and drums in the back, but i'm not sure, i don't have the truck here right now. and if they do have drums, are there any conversions i can buy for the back? how are they in the snow? thx.
  • willi1willi1 Posts: 3
    It runs good at idle for about 10 minutes then reves up high - then dies. Won't start for a couple hours afterward. Code 12 blinks always... reset it and tried again, just blinks 12, nothing else. Sounded like it may be sucking air but can't find a pin hole anywhere. Any other suggestions? Has new wires, plugs, distributer, throttlebody, fuel filter, fuel pickup, oil level is fine, ???? can't figure it out especially with the codes coming back as 12 all the time.

    Thanks again!
  • I have a 97 S-10 2.2 and am also having fuel lick from the back fuel injector. I went and got a new injecter and it filled my cylender up with fuel and started licking fuel from the exauste. We pulled it apart and found the new injecter was staying open and sending fuel into the air intake. Do you have any ideas as to what I need to do or what I can do.
  • dburnsdburns Posts: 1
    how do you go about replacing the wiper controller board on my 97 sonoma
  • sniz305sniz305 Posts: 2
    I am trying to replace the the door pins on my driver side door and i dont know how to get the old ones off without cutting them and i dont know how to deal with the spring on the top one i have no clue how to move it or get it off is there a trick to it or something please let me know so i can finally fix the door problem i am having

    thanks
  • i have 94 s-10 with the 2.2 i wont to put in a 4.3 im tring to find the correct way to do this. i need mount info,tranny support info ant thing i can get. and if your lookin for a good motor or tranny...e-mail me.
  • goetschgoetsch Posts: 2
    You will need to get a spring compressor for the door hinge spring and then you can pound the pins out the top goes in from the bottom and the bottom goes in from the top
  • goetschgoetsch Posts: 2
    PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I was driving down the road my wipers slowed down and stopped my radio shut off lights all went off and truck died!!!!!

    Alternator was my thought so i pulled it out and it tested out at 14.3 volts when load tested.....The battery is new and i dont know what to do i need this fixed

    WHAT CAN I DO?!?!??!!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? :mad:
  • sniz305sniz305 Posts: 2
    is it a difficult job to do and where can i find a spring compressor that small that it will be able to get in there to compress the spring?
  • hohohornethohohornet Posts: 1
    new pump new filter truck died on interstate and now im not getting any fuel to the filter? it is a 91 w/ a 2.8 v6 any suggestions?
  • chevydan04chevydan04 Posts: 1
    Hey I just recently purchased a 1998 S10 ZR2 with 54,000 miles on it, The first weekend I owned it I went mudding! This past weekend I went fishing, I took my truck out on the bench, I pushed the button and it blinked but it didn't engage, I have been looking it over and I can not figure out why it wont engage. I know its all electrical, and vaccum and what not. If anyone has had this problem please inform me! I have had nothing but bad luck with this truck.
  • donprolinedonproline Posts: 1
    I have 2003 Sonoma ZR2 Extended Cab with slight grinding from behind dash. Only in low RPM sitting in drive. Did you solve your problem? please email back what the problem was and how to fix it.
    Thanks Don
  • I have a 96 4.3 vortec single cab with around 111,000 miles on it i installed flow master exhaust and good quality sound system, i have been having a serious trouble with my truck not wanting to stay running. i have replace the battery, the whole battery cables, the alternator, fuel filter, gas seemed alil watery so i put iso heet and it ran good for about a week then i started it and after a few minutes it sputters and then dies. ill try it again and it starts in a higher rpm and then sputters again and dies. i try to start it again but nothing. fuel pump is fine i checked the pressure. i cleaned out the manifold and set the throttle to rev higher and i checked all the connections on the driver side under the little box and tightened them down. im at a lost of what to look for, maybe still have the water in fuel issue??? please help i would really appreciate it. :sick: :cry:
  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    Check out message #647 on page 33. I think that's the same problem . I had that problem too, although I think the dealer fixed it 40000 miles ago and it went away, but it's doing it again occasionally. Perhaps its time for a new valve again...
  • krisckrisc Posts: 1
    Hi my name is kris, I'm having a problem with my electrical system alternater good, battery good, but it die's on me like it's the alternater but it's not. Does anyone have a ideal because it don't hit me back please if you do

    thank you
    kris coffey
This discussion has been closed.