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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • I have a 2001 Blazer that idles rough all the time and sets no codes and does not turn on the check engine light. The plugs and wires have been changed and cap and rotor checked. Anybody have an idea of what I might check next?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Thanks for the info and instruction. I'll do as suggested and let you know what happens. Currently I have the ABS dismantled and in a cardboard box. Also I have on order modulator valve part # 570071. I'm learning as I go, it's been a hoot. The parts I have replaced so far were in poor shape and in need of replacement. Its a 92 with 173k and is starting to show some age. It runs very well for an old truck and handy to have around so we plan on keeping it for some time to come. It's the first rig I've had in along time that will spin a back tire.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like you got caught up on maintenance, which isn't a bad thing. A lot of guys have been hooked with the red brake light on earlier GM trucks and SUV's, trying to correct a hydraulic system problem when it's an ABS fault. Keep us posted on how it's going. Btw, here's why you should perform one of the most neglected services, flushing the hydraulic system regularly:

    http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/brkfld.shtml
  • tim1959tim1959 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with a 2003 S10 ......i do not know ...but need it resolved now........... does anyone know ???
  • 19351935 Posts: 1
    brake lights do not work, all other lighting works, ie. left turn. right turn, backup lite, park/running lights, no burned out bulbs, have replaced brake /cr control, switch, when running lights are turned off, there is no voltage present on the wire at the plug in rear of vehicle(harness plug,ft to rear)the same wire that has voltage when parking lights are on.. unable to find a wiring diagram, that lists diodes or other devices in this circuit. run a jumper wire from the brake switch(unloaded wire) on the switch back to the same wire at the back harness plug....plug unhooked) and then stepping on the brake petal operates all the brake lights.....i need some help big time on this one......c.j./1935 :sick:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The brake light wiring goes through the signal switch. If there's power into the signal switch at terminal P (white) with the brake pedal depressed, but no power out at terminals M (yellow) and N (dark green), replace the signal switch. Here's the schematic:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8012b295.gif
  • hunterjhunterj Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Chevy S10 4.3l V6 and I here the same vibration when traveling at speeds ranging from 30 to 70 MPH. When traveling at speeds in between 30 and 40 MPH the sound is much louder, and sounds like metal rattling however the noise completely goes away when you turn the steering wheel at all to the right. Did you ever find out what the cause was for the noise? Any ideas would hlep!!! Thanks
  • normandnormand Posts: 1
    HEY I go 95 s10 4.3 lit 2wd and when my abs light come on my heater motor stop,and when my light go off heater is back on. any help?
  • shaz5shaz5 Posts: 4
    hey,
    i have a 1999 s10 and i have the same problem. after driving an hour plus, the transmission will not shift into the high gear. if i let it cool for about 20 minutes, it is okay again. it also sometimes seems to be slipping or searching for gears when i am driving over 60 miles an hour. it definitely does seem to related to the operating temperature, i.e., once the transmission is really warm, it has the problem. very frustrating, cause even the chevy dealer couldn't tell me what was wrong. they test drove it 21 miles, and of course it didn't have the problem. please keep us posted if you are able to find anything. do you think possibly the transmission fluid was overfilled and when it gets really hot and expands it causes a problem?? a website i read said before condemning the transmission, have the fluid and filter changed (not flushed) and be sure to use the right fluid when refilling. have either of you tried this? thanks.
  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    Even after adjusting the lock rods the door was not closing fully and the handle was still hard to open. So we also adjusted the latch on the frame which the doors locks on to by some hammering and tweaking and now the handle works nicely and the door closes better. Definitely do this when you are in a patient mood...it goes much better!
  • usman1usman1 Posts: 1
    I have 2001 chevy s10 pickup. I had just gotten done cleaning the seats and dashboard of the truck. I had checked the airfilter and oil. but when i went to start it..the truck didnt start. The battery seems fine cuz the lights and horn are working but it seems like the truck wont turn over. What could be the problem? Also yesterday i had put in 89 octane gasoline instead of 87 what has been usually put in but the tank was mostly empty when i did so. So could that be it ? or the starter. Please help. Thanks.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    No codes? Should be showing P1870, converter slippage. That year an earlier has an issue with worn valve bodies, GM has an updated valve body assy for your truck, how many miles on it now. The transmission need not be removed to replace the valve body. :)
  • shaz5shaz5 Posts: 4
    the chevy dealer i took it to hooked it up to the machine for diagnostics. they did not tell me the number of the code, only that it did show the transmission had slipped. but since truck was fine when they drove it, they said there was nothing they could do (and charged me $80 for diagnostics). my truck has only 62,000 miles on it. would the worn valve body cause the problem to happen only when the truck was hot (after driving over an hour)? is the valve body part of the transmission, and about how much is it gonna cost to replace it?
    :confuse:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Joe, we've had good luck with this fix. Services original and factory reman units:

    http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/PDF/77754-Combo(rb).pdf
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Sorry thats a classic, the dealer is really out of date, should have known fix. It will do it at 62K and even at 40K. Check with a GOOD independent trans shop, they will give you an estimate. :(
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Thanks for the link, was aware, reamers cost LOL. :)
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    My door originally had a rattle -
    Actually my door bottom was so far out - I had to have the Dealer buy a new striker plate and I extended the adjustment slots in the latch in my milling machine ... (and I broke two cutters - that latch was really work hardened from the factory bending/processing - well over approx 30+ RC ). That change pulled in the dor and fixed my rattle ... My opening latch has always been a ltttle hard - but never really had a problem so I left well enough alone ...

    Glad you fixed the problem ....
  • jrgreggjrgregg Posts: 1
    i have a 99 sonoma, 5-spd, V6, it has right at 100,000 miles on it. for the past year or so when i'm driving it will just cut off on me (at least thats how it started). usually it is in hot weather, and on long trips. now instead of the whole thing just cutting off, its just like the fuel isnt reaching the engine. i will keep pressing the gas, and the truck will lurch like its trying but theres just nothin there to power it. most recently it has started sputtering and knocking inside the engine and no one has a clue what it is. i have taken it several places where it has been "fixed", the first two "fixed" an electrical problem, the last one replaced some burned out O2 sensors. I have also replaced the fuel filter, checked for leaks in the fuel line, and also check the fuel line to make sure it isnt touching anything hot that would make the gas evaporate inside the line. diagnostics show nothing and they tell me that unless i can pull it into the station right when its happening, then theres no way for them to find the problem. dear lord please someone help me, this is driving me insane!
  • shaz5shaz5 Posts: 4
    you might be having the same problem i am having with my '99 S10. it sounds similar to my transmission problem: after driving for an hour plus, the truck won't shift into high gear. which makes it drive like it has the emergency brake on (or maybe as you are describing, like the fuel won't reach the engine and lurches forward). just a thought. see postings 867-871. joe is saying 99 and earlier models have a classic problem with worn valve body assemblies.
  • shaz5shaz5 Posts: 4
    Joe, thanks a lot for the tip. i will check into it. i looked back at my receipt from the dealer who did the diagnostics and it does show that it was a code 1870, "slipping component". Don't know how they could not have known about the issue, or the fix. :)
  • paul1217paul1217 Posts: 1
    ive got a 1990 s15 jimmy 2-door suv and the back glass squeaks like crazy! ive tried tightening the glass and the gate and replaced the struts, everything i could think of. anyone else who's had this problem?
  • goodgodgoodgod Posts: 6
    I have my red brake warning light at 1/2 intensity on my dash. Also, my speedometer quit working at the same time. I took off each tire and examined the brake components before I read your post, but they seemed to be fine. I ran the code procedure and I got 12 all day long, which I take to mean no code. My issue may be related to using a trailer (an S10 cut off at the back of the cab) and running those lights as well. Prior to this, my bottom taillight, middle bulb, was not working. I changed the bulb, but that made no difference. Any ideas would be appreciated
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Since this discussion is for S10 and S15/Sonoma pickups, you may have better luck asking here: Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy: Problems & Solutions

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • bbkittybbkitty Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chevy S-10 Pickup with 82,000 miles. I have replaced the alternator 2 times and about to do it again this weekend. AARRGH! I can't figure out why I keep having this problem. The auto part store said that I might have just gotten 2 bad alternators...but I don't know. After I changed it the 2nd time I changed the tensioner arm, because it was causing my truck to lose power as well, and I was wondering if that could have done damage to my alternator. I also have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, battery, and the throttle postion sensor! This truck has had so many problems I would not recommend buying a Chevy! Anyway....any advice or help anyone can give me about my alternator would be very much appreciated!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Vehicle speed sensor or it's wiring.
  • goodgodgoodgod Posts: 6
    Where is Vehicle speed sensor located?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Aftermarket overhauls are an issue, buy a new Delco or google for a larger Delco that will fit. :)
  • blakeskiblakeski Posts: 1
    this ought to be an easy one, but i am not too "bright" when it comes to electricity. headlights are fine at low-beam, but when i switch to high-beam, the right-side light (passenger side) goes completely out. the left-side one goes high, so i suspect it's not the switch. i replaced the sealed-beam (it is a 1983), and that did not fix it, so i expect it is something between the switch and the lamp. my chilton does not have wiring diagrams.

    this has been a hell of a truck. i have never had trouble with it and would not hesitate to drive it anywhere. it has 238k on it. i bought it with 59k in 1989, with the only major repair being head gaskets at about 85k. still has original clutch, carb, distributor, water pump, and i have worked it hard.
  • iantiant Posts: 1
    did you fix the problem or not I have the same problem?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I was advising to a probable fix, never heard back from the guy. What is your problem and what have you done to it so far. :)
This discussion has been closed.