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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • i Just boaught some 18's wih a tire size of 225/40ZR/18 88W straight from stock tires these made a huge difference in traction and stability. 90' corners are taken with ease and no slippage and no squealing. i have the stock suspension still in so there is quite a big wheel gap but its still a huge improvement
  • johnsonbjohnsonb Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help, I will test it out tonight.
  • emilyraeemilyrae Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 S-10 with 270,000 miles on it (give or take) I know... it's a lot. It's been running very well, and recently had the ignition control module fixed.

    About a week ago after driving for about an hour I stopped somewhere, and when I went to start the truck it wouldn't start. The started didn't roll over, there was no clicking (such as a dead battery) and all of my accessories work fine. I left it there with intentions to tow it a few days later when I had the money. But when I was waiting for my friend to tow it, I tried to start it, and it started right up, no problems.

    Another instance it did the same thing after a pit stop, no start. I waited about 5-10 minutes, and it started right up. This last time however, it just hasn't wanted to start back up again. I'm stumped, and have no idea where to even start. Any ideas? :cry:
  • jimmy97jimmy97 Posts: 2
    Did you pull the codes for the check engine light..If so what were they?How many miles do you have on this truck?
  • corrozuscorrozus Posts: 1
    I am the second owner of a 2000 Chevy S-10. Its a 4x4 with a 4.3L V6, 5 speed. I didn't know if any of that was important to my question so I listed in just in case. Anyway, I recently moved and rented a UHaul trailer. I had it hooked up and disconnected the rear lights to connect to the trailer. Everything worked fine. When I dropped the trailer off, I hooked my rear lights up again. Now, all the lights work fine except for the left rear tail light. The brake lights and turn signals still work fine. I replaced all the bulbs in the taillight and checked the fuses. The fuses are fine. I still can't get the taillight to work. Anyone know what the problem could be or how I should go about fixing it? Its not under warranty right now and I really can't afford to take it in. Please let me know. E-mail me at or respond here please. Thanks.
  • jake7gjake7g Posts: 4
    I am also in the middle of a motor project. I just changed from a 91 2.5 to a 2000 4.3 in my 91 frame. I have had the harnesses interfaced and just got everything installed. I thought I was having only a fuel pressure problem but after getting the new pump installed my truck won't fire. I have a good coil, good distributor, new cap and rotor and new plugs and wire. The spark is good. However, my truck won't fire either. I sprayed a little starting fluid in the intake and it rumbles until it uses all the fluid. Based on this I believe that the injectors are stuck closed or that there is a problem with the pcm or the spider. I just got this far yesterday and have to wait a week until I trouble shoot again. I have read on posts that if a vortec motor, post 96 sits for a while the injectors tend to stick close. I don't remember all of what the posts said but I think there is some kind of cleaner that will open them up. I have to go back and read them. Hope it works out for you and let me know what you find out.
  • I got this code with a pending code of P0171 "System too lean/Bank too lean (Bank 1)" I have replaced an O2 sensor and a IAC Idle Air Control Valve. Now my truck idles well, but it runs like dooky on a stick. What may cause the drop in the MAP? Vacuum issues? EGR? Emissions EVAP System? Please Edumicate me,
    LOL, Thanks,
    Ty :confuse:
  • zero1zero1 Posts: 1
    S-10 2.2L 5sp 150k
    p/steering pump
    Wiper motor
    Chirping noise from the clutch throw out bearing from day one.
    New 29mpg highway after 150k not as good mpg
    Serp belt making noises
    Solid runner

    The s-10 is not the reason won’t buy chevy it’s the Monte the GM/dealership can not fix it’s problems clunk feel in the steering column took it in the btards charged me for lubing the intermediate shaft which should never go bad. Faulty engineering on GM part. Poor dealer service. Same thing after 3k they replaced it and at 5k same problem. If GM supports and stands by there product I would have a different perception of them they don’t thus No more
  • tammy4tammy4 Posts: 1
    If you door will not open from inside or outside, how would you remove door panel to fix.
  • dave96dave96 Posts: 1
    I'm looking into lowering my s-10. Right now as the truck sits the drivers side sits higher than the passenger. i can't tell if it is comming from the [non-permissible content removed] end or the front end because its damn close. But if it is the coil springs thats ok i'm looking to replace those any ways. But if its the leaf springs i need to know becasue i found a 1.5'' drop leaf spring on ebay for pretty cheap.
    My second question is if i get the 1.5'' leaf springs what size block should i get to even out my truck considering i want a 3'' coil spring. I think a 3'' block on the back and with the lowering leaf springs it would slam that front end but i don't know a whole lot about suspension. But some one out there could guide me i would apprechate it.
    thank you
  • turtle4turtle4 Posts: 1
    I would like to know if you found out what the problem was. I am having the same problem that you described. I have a 99 S-10 ext. cab. So far I have taken my truck to a small shop and after 3 days they don't know whats causing the vibration and growling noise. I have also taken it to my local Chevy dealer and after 5 different techs and 4 hours of trouble shooting they can't tell me where the noise is coming from. Help, Help

  • tinpercinttinpercint Posts: 1
    Use duct tape, works every time! :P
  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    We have an 02 Chevy S10 ZR2. We had a hissing sound coming from the air controller at about 20000 brought it in and they said the seals were bad. Probably 15000 miles later the hissing sounds was back. Brought it in and same problem. The dealer said it was the vacuum lines sucking in antifreeze and the antifreeze was eating the seals. So they replace all the vacuum lines. Then about 30000 miles later (when the warranty was no more) hissing again! Brought it back to the same dealer and they replaced all the lines again free (because it wasn't fixed right the first 2 times). So far no hissing noise, but I'm not holding my breath.

    Was the grinding noise behind the dash intermittent? We have that too but our dealer couldn't reproduce it because it only does it occasionally.
  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    I have '02 ZR2 with 77,000 miles on it.

    Problem #1 Just recently the power driver side window goes down just fine but has an extremely difficult time closing. Sometimes you press the button to close it and nothing happens. Other times it goes up very slow. Any suggestions?

    Problem # 2 The truck was in 4 wheel drive low then begin making an awful grinding noise. The only thing that would make it stop grinding was turning the car off. Then when it was restarted the truck won't even attempt to put it in 4W high or low.

    And just for kicks the handle to the 3rd door broke on us last weekend when we were moving. Couple this with air controller hissing problem in which the dealer replaces the vacuum lines twice. This makes me never want to buy another chevy again, especially when we have a 95 Nissan 240SX with 220,000 miles on it and the only thing we've had to do on it other than maintainence is change the starter.
  • novadudenovadude Posts: 4
    Could also be that your egr is stuck open,,, Checking for fuel from injectors can be done by looking down the throttle body while you crank it using a remote starter switch,, there is a way to jumper a wire on the aldl to get the pump to cycle as well,, Do you hear the pump cycle when you turn on the key? Is there a schraeder valve to check the pressure? Hope this helps,
  • chevygalchevygal Posts: 2
    I also have a 98 S-10 with only 120,000 miles. Wouldn't start last month. We replaced the fuel filter module in the fuse box (it was burnt on one side).
    2 days ago: it would not start - again. We replaced the module a second time thinking something electrical was shorting them out. Still wouldn't start.
    Yesterday: Had it towed to the garage. Still wouldn't start.
    Today: Once they started to hook it up to the scope, it started and has been running every since.

    Your problem sounds very similar to what we are going through with ours.
    Have you discovered what the problem is yet?
    We don't know whether to start with the electrical or the fuel system. :sick:
  • spidey1spidey1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 ZR2 got new in May of 2003. Got a cap in Dec 03 and an alarm summer of 04. Purchashed a trailer fall of 04 and have nothing but problems with the passenger side rear blinker not wanting to work. 1st couple of times it was the bulb then the trailer harness on the truck was corrided badley. Now I just don't know. The bulbs I have do work but the blinker still does not want to. Anyone with any suggestions please let me know, for this is getting pretty frustrating.
  • reptileschreptilesch Posts: 3
    Thanks for the tips guys, I've tried the starting fluid, and still there is nothing.... Short of buying a comprsion tester, I think it's not getting compression. Any one want to buy
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165

    Not sure if this helps .... but ...

    I think there is as procedure in your manual to manually dis-engage from 4 low to hi gear ... Perhaps if you try that - it will get you into 4/2 hi for now ...

    Also, there is a TSB on the 3rd door handle ... below ...

    Door (Third) - Hard to Open/Handle Breakage

    File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

    Bulletin No.: 02-08-64-007

    Date: March, 2002


    Third Door Hard to Open and/or Handle Breakage
    (Adjust Lock Rods)

    1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Extended Cab Pickup Models (S-10, Sonoma)


    Some customers may comment that the third door is hard to open and/or the door handle may be broken.


    The lock rods may be improperly adjusted.


    Adjust the lock rods using the following procedure:

    1. Remove the door trim.

    2. Release both lock rod rods from the lock rod retainers.

    3. Position the upper lock rod first. Refer to arrow in illustration. Position the lock rod in the retainer so that there is 10 to 12 mm (0.39 to 0.47 in) (Approximately 11-12 threads showing) from the end of the lock rod.

    Important :Make sure the upper striker is not bound against the latch. If this happens, you must push the door inboard to release the latch. To correct a bound latch, adjust the striker until the striker is centered with the latch.

    4. Position the lower lock rod in the retainer where it rests, usually 5.0 to 6 mm (0.19 to 0.23 in) of threads from the end of the rod after the upper lock rod is locked in place.

    5. Install the door trim.

  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    Thanks a lot! I think that is exactly our problem with the door. It was always hard to open until the day it snapped. Once we get the new part we will definitely try that!

    I will check out the manual on the 4W drive low tonight. Is there a way I can search for TSBs myself?
This discussion has been closed.