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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • eotiseotis Posts: 1
    I have an S-10 LS and in the past 2 years I have had nothing but transmission problems. It doesn't know what gear it's in (automatic)and bangs back and forth when going uphill. Now it only goes from 1st to 4th in the Overdrive position, if I put it in D, 2, or 1 it stays in Overdrive. They are going to check it Wednesday to see if it is a solenoid or the inside gears have bound together. I'm claiming and praying to Jesus that it is the solenoid=$250, not $1700.
  • the5carthe5car Posts: 26
    After 136,000 miles, my fan clutch has locked
    up and now the fan spins all the time while
    the engine roars deafeningly through gears 1-3.

    I could simply replace the clutch, but I'm also
    considering an electric fan as a replacement.

    Does anyone out there know of a simple, bolt
    on application I can find, or one that would
    only require minimum mechanical skills to
    install?

    This is for a 1997LS, 2.2L 5 speed, w A/C...

    Thanks for any suggestions...
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would just put another clutch on,136K isn't bad service.If you are really good at wiring and rigging things JC Whitney has fans,relays and sensors to set up a change over.I would just put a new clutch on my 99 Sonoma if it went bad,and i have the experience to wire one up.When the clutch is not engaged the is vertually no power loss.
  • newton75newton75 Posts: 2
    I agree with joe3891. Ultimately a new clutch isn't really an expensive repair. I know a guy that tried a bolt on electric fan in his s-10 Blazer, and it never could do the job. He just ended up getting a new clutch after a few months of almost overheating. Who knows though - maybe he just got a crappy fan...
  • chev98chev98 Posts: 1
    I have a '98 S-10 4X4 with the extended cab, enhanced Vortec and the Zl-1 package. I have had regular dealer maintenance. I noticed yesterday that shifting during overdrive required higher rpms. Today I'm stuck in the garage with no reverse. I have plenty of trans. fluid, no leaks, no apparent fluid mix in the radiator, and no trouble service lights came on for it. I don't tow or even off-road with it. Any Ideas before I have it towed to my Chevy dealer?
  • the5carthe5car Posts: 26
    Well, I've heard arguments both ways for either
    just replacing the clutch or going electric...

    I've seen clutch prices anywhere from $30
    to $90 bucks. The most recommended electric
    model was a Flexalite Black Magic Model 60,
    with a price of $190 from summitracing.com...
    The advantage (so I've been told) of the
    electric is that you can set the temperature
    to whatever you like (not that I necessarily
    would), and also anywhere from a 5-12 hp gain
    in performance. Install and wiring looks
    rather simple.

    Money's tight right now (what else is new?),
    so before I end up ruining my water pump, I'll
    probably throw another fan clutch at it.

    Thanks for your input.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would like to read the explanation of that,i have 18K on my Sonoma and through two summers heard the fan come on twice.The electric fan when it comes on will cause the generator(formally called alternator} to load up and lose HP,there is no free ride in this world.So you will just switch one HP draw for another,i think you are just bored and need a project.
  • tjkirk2tjkirk2 Posts: 1
    Has anyone found a was to permanently disable the DRLs?? Dealer told me the dome light override would do it, but that resets itself when you turn the engine off.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    You probably don't use your seat belt either.
  • I have a 2000 Chevy s-10 ZR2. I've noticed recently that while driving with the air selector turned to "Off" and all the way to "Cold" heat pours into the cabin onto my feet. It has to be the most miserable problem to drive any distance with that I can think of. I brought my truck in and Chevy claims that the truck is designed to allow airflow into the cabin even when the selector is off. This is understandable but fiery hot air?

    Just wondering if anyone has had similar problems and can offer some solution (or if you'd like to complain like me, that'd be fine too).
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would say your heat control is stuck on hot,if its on warranty take it to the dealer.My 99 Sonoma lets air in when everything is off,but i can control the air with the temp control.Yours is BROKEN.
  • spacecadetspacecadet Posts: 4
    I have a 97 s-10 with daytime running lamps, I found out that the only safe way to disable the D.R.L.'s is to pull the fuse in the fuse box. You should refer to your owners manual to see what number fuse it is.
  • mmace37mmace37 Posts: 2
    I can't find my oil filter! I have a used 1990, and this is the first time I am changing the oil filter, and I can't find it. If anyone can help, I'd really appreciate it.

    Thanks, Marissa
  • mmace37mmace37 Posts: 2
    But I found it! Thanks anyways!
    Marissa
  • I just fixed my Idle and poor gas mileage problem on my 93 S-10 Blazer. I purchased the vehical used with 123000 miles on it. I read on another web site that a common problem with the 93 S-10 4.3L W engine was the fuel lines "inside" the intake Plenum. I had taken it to several mechanics who wanted to start by replacing the Dist and other sensors. I suggested pulling the Plenum on the intake and was told that would be extremely expensive. The previous owner already had the distrubtor replaced, the fuel pump replaced, the EGR valve replaced, the map sensor and a full tune up with no change (The last mechanic wanted to replace the Catalyic converter). I gave up and pulled the plenum myself. There was puddle of gas under the fuel lines. With the plenum cover off I had my wife turn the key on and watched the fuel lines. Sure enough one had a crack in it and was spurting gas all over. GM called it a NUT KIT and it cost me $67 plus $18 for the plenum gasket. Took about an hour to replace and the truck runs like new again.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,001
    skyhawk3 posted some time ago that his dealer gave him replacement seat tilt handles. Does anyone have a part number for these? My dad's truck is a 1998 model (new interior and seats), but I think the handle is the same. Our dealer said he couldn't just order a handle, but instead would have to order something else that included the handle ($$$). TIA.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,001
    Just looked at the truck again. The end of the round metal shaft that goes back inside the seat is what broke off. The plastic handle itself is fine.
  • guru101guru101 Posts: 15
    I've encountered the first (potentialy) real problem with my 99 S-10. While driving yesterday at 50 mph in 5th gear the "service engine soon" light came on. Once it light up, it stayed on the rest of the way to work (15 miles). As soon as I started the truck to go home, the light came on again. Stayed on the whole way home. Wife took the truck to her brothers early that evening. In transit, the light goes off. The whole time the truck appeared to be running just fine.

    I checked the cap on the gas tank, which was closed tightly. I looked under the hood and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. No apparent fluid leaks. Oil level was right on. I have no idea what may have caused this.

    When I drove the truck today it ran fine and the light didn't come on. It's out of warranty (46.7k miles) so I obviously don't want to take it to a dealer. Does anyone have any ideas? The truck is completely stock, except for a K&N air filter. It has the 2.2L 4 banger. I have changed my oil religiously at 3 month intervals.

    Oh, there's one more thing. Yesterday was the hottest day where I live (Detroit) in the two years I've owned the truck. It hit 92 (for all of you sun-belt dwellers, you missed it. Yesterday was THE day designated as "Summer" here in Michigan. Maybe you can make it up here for summer next year?). So, my theory is that the heat during the day had something to do with this, because the light went off as it was finally starting to cool off a little.
  • milanjmilanj Posts: 9
    Take to the dealer and have them put it on the computer. O2 sensor might be intermittent. I had a problem with the light coming on and staying then just as I was ready to take it to the dealer it would go off. the code for the light should be stored in the trucks computer.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    sounds exactly like my dads 92 S-10

    replaced everything you stated plus exhaust and cat (both needed to be repalced badly)

    Still ran bad. Turned out it needed a new fuel filter (changed 20K prior but something caused it to go bad)
This discussion has been closed.