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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • banjo3banjo3 Posts: 4
    OK, here's the latest scoop. I took it in this morning for a front-end inspection. Bushings, bearings, etc looked great, but the alignment was out of spec. They adjusted it and improved all of the alignment settings, especially the caster which was the really bad. I've only driven it about 10 highway miles since then, and that was with a 40 MPH crosswind, so I couldn't tell much about the tracking...I was getting blown all over the place. I did notice that it steers better going around corners in the neighborhood. Tomorrow I'll take it out before the wind kicks up and try it on the highway.
    Thanks to everybody for your ideas and the good discussion. I'll keep you posted on tomorrow's test drive.
    Also, I'm still keeping an open mind about the tires being a factor in the steering. I know they look like new, but I've never driven on 7-8 year old tires that have been sitting around like this, so I don't know what to expect. My tires usually get replaced due to treadwear, or the sidewalls crack way before 7-8 years.
  • Well its time for an update. after doing some research on i discovered a bit about the crankshaft differences between 94 and 98. So, that being said, here we go again. I am locating a 97 crank to fit the 98 block and seeing if that fixes the timing problem. At the same time we are going to adjust the rear axle to get it recentered. I had bought the truck with a lowering kit (3" front lowering springs, 4" rear lowering blocks) installed already and have come to believe the rear axle has moved a half inch forward, causing the input shaft bearings to be under extreme pressure. I'll have further updates later. A simple question to end the update: As far as differences in power steering pumps from year to year, should the 98 whine or not? If not then I'll be replacing the pump with the original 94 pump.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    DTC P1336 will only set if the PCM has not learned the crankshaft position system variation. The PCM only needs to learn this variation once per life cycle of the vehicle unless the crank sensor to crankshaft relationship is disturbed. Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance.

    A fully warmed up engine is critical to learning the variation correctly. If a valid learn occurs, no other learns can be completed on that ignition cycle.

    If the engine cuts out before the specified learn procedure engine speed or at normal fuel cut-off rpm, the PCM is not in the learn procedure mode. Review the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure and re-enable the learn procedure. Verify that the scan tool displays Test in Progress. :(
  • moncast1moncast1 Posts: 4
    hey, Joe3891 what do i do if i don't have a scan tool? Im limited to what i can use. I only have access to the basic tools. so should i pull the crankshaft positioner out and put it back, and let the truck idle until it warms up? and by the way thanks for responding to my question.
  • My drivers side high beam will not work. I have replaced bulbs, but still no luck. What can I do?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    This is all I could find right off, I have a lot of information but my file keeping is lacking. I will look again as soon as I can, sorry about the delay.
  • i am having the same problem with my brake lights (all three) --- did you ever get your problem resolved
  • All three of my brake light are disabled; the turn signals and night lights work fine but not the lights when i depress the brakes----any known resolution?
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205

    Thanks for the info. Will be taking the vehicle in this week to have it given the "once over". Looked at the hoses on Saturday and the rubber is wet. If it is the cooler lines will definitely have them replaced because as you stated, if one or both lines go, no oil and new engine time.

    When you had your rig repaired, do you know if the dealership installed the same hoses, or if there was an improved version, like a later revision hose with more reliable crimping installed? Would hate to have this problem become a nickel/dime type thing (went through that before on another vehicle).
  • novadudenovadude Posts: 4
    Turns out it was the coil. I had an aftermarket ACCEL coil on it that I had scavenged from a parts truck. I put the old coil back on, and VOILA, starts right up all the time. Guess it was taking awhile for the coil to saturate enough to make spark. Hope this helps someone else.
  • Have you checked all of your bulbs? When I bought my truck 2 of the 3 brake lights didn't work and all I did was change the bulbs. Maybe that will solve your problems.
  • Has anyone ever changed out the dimmer switch on the turn signal lever? I believe that is whats wrong with my ' 97 Sonoma's high beam problem.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Automatic huh?? I wonder - could it be the Torque Converter not tight / lossening up on the flywheel?? Where did the other Fly wheel crack - around the Hole pttern for the Torque converter ??? (Also check to ensure they put the correct Flywheel back on the first time - if the counter weight is wrong - the vibration will be there ...)
  • I have a 2003 S10 ZR5 and would like to tow it behind my motorhome. I own a tow dolly and had intended to tow the truck backwards, since it defaults to rear-wheel drive when in 2-wheel, but is there something else I should do to avoid problems when towing? Any help would be appreciated.
  • I have a 2001Chevy S-10 2WD with an automatic transmission. Recently, after driving for 1+ hours (usually on the interstate), the transmission will not go into overdrive but remains in 3rd. Anybody have suggestion??? How serious is this problem? Thanks.
  • kudzu67kudzu67 Posts: 3
    My 1999 S10 has been a perfect angel for all of its 201,000+ miles.
    Monday, I stopped for a soda on my way to work.
    When I got back to my truck, it wouldn't start.
    "Clickity clickity clickity" is all I heard.
    Dead Battery...right? I got a jump from another car.
    Both Starter & Engine would turn over, but it will not start.
    I had it towed home.
    There, I noticed the Fuel Pump wasn't priming at start-up.

    How can I tell if the Fuel Pump Relay is bad?
    The initial problem was a dead the Alternator causing the shut down?
    When I turn over the engine...the volt meter only reads 9

    Think an OBDII code reader point out the trouble?
  • 94s1094s10 Posts: 1
    Depending on what year your truck is, i know that my 1994 has a brake light switch that every now and then sticks on. this switch is connected to the brake pedal and the fire wall. the switch could be faulty. just a suggestion
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Unfortunately, I believe the design of the oil cooler lines has not changed. On the other hand, I believe the intake manifold gasket has been redesigned. Each repair is about $300. Good luck with your truck.
  • kudzu67kudzu67 Posts: 3
    The OBD II Code Reader did NOT find any trouble codes.
    A smart suggestion from a co-worker (ex-GM Tech)
    was to take one of the Fuel Pump relays and switch it around with another relay.
    So, I tried that...nothings changed.

    The hunt continues.
  • Both of my tailgate straps/cables broke at the same time, I needed both left/right sides and the dealership here in Augusta, Ga. wanted to charge me $148.00 for the part and I needed 2 of them, one for each side. I searched the "net" and found a dealership "Beyer Bros" on Google and bought the parts for like $33.00 apiece. Installation is fairly quick and easy although may require some patience untill you figure how to go about it! I'd be glad to help iof needed etc. doug.
This discussion has been closed.