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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I have a 2000 S10 with 2wd. I had the oilcooler lines replaced a few months ago. They were leaking. The problem is with the crimping where the metal and hose portions of the lines connect. You can check it out by just looking under the front of the truck. This problem affects the 2wd and 4wd models. Same thing with the intake manifold gasket problem, both 2wd and 4wd models are affected. However, wheel bearing problems generally only affect the 4wd models.
  • im trying to replace the fuel pressure regulator on my friends 96 s10 v6 4.3l but im having trouble finding it. can someone please tell me where it is. if you can send me a pic it would be awesome. thnx.
  • I have a 2000 S-10 approaching 60,000 miles. Around 59825, the service engine light came on and went off after I replaced the battery, which needed to be replaced after looking over the vehicle and one of the connecter had corroded and fell off. Today, at 59925, the light came on again. My uncle thinks there might be some type of emmisions programing setup to go off for 60,000 miles. Has anyone else expirienced this problem?
  • Thank you. I was told by a bone yard that the camareo 4cyl would work but did not trust the guy. (I will continue to search for a loaded block that will actually fit my 95.
  • My service engine soon light came on and I took it to autozone and P0420 is the result. They didn't know really for sure what could be causing that. Anyone else had that before and if so what can I do to get rid of it. Thanks.

    sorry for the duplicate posting..hit enter accidentally.
  • Hay me again, I have another problem with my 1997 GMC Sonoma 4.3 Liter auto. I replaced the manifold intake gasket which went just fine, drove the truck did good but sounded like it was a notch out of time,it was hard to start then, however I decided to move the distributor a notch back, now it won't crank at all the dash lights such as the oil light and check engine lights or the fuel pump will not work I have checked all the grounds on it and everything seems to be hooked up HELP anybody who may a solution other than junking it which I'm very close to doing
  • we have a 1987 S15 with a 2.2 standard 4spd. Great little truck, it's mileage is at 460,000 KM and going strong.

    The problem we have is that we have lost our low wiper speed. (we do not have the intermittent feature)The question is, do we replace the switch, or is it the wiper motor? anyone else have this problem?

    We also are experiencing the chirping noise that others have mentioned. It can be annoying, is it the throw out bearing,?? is that hard to grease? My husband is able to fix most things, so we don't like taking the truck to a repair shop.
  • we have a 1987 S15 with a 2.2 standard 4spd. Great little truck, it's mileage is at 460,000 and going strong.

    The problem we have is that we have lost our low wiper speed. (we do not have the intermittent feature)The question is, do we replace the switch, or is it the wiper motor? anyone else have this problem?

    We also are experiencing the chirping noise that others have mentioned. It can be annoying, is it the throuw out bearing,?? is that hard to grease? My husband is able to fix most things, so we don't like taking the truck to a repair shop.

    We would like to add that we are very happy with our little truck!
  • I got the truck running now im having brake light problems. the switch is working i tested the two wires that go to the switch one stays hot all the time and the other wire is only hot when the brake pedal is depressed. all the other light in the back work fine. Can you help please? were do i go after the switch? it looks to me like the wires go out the fire wall and connects to the hazard switch in the engine compartment. could that switch be bad? Thank you for the help. oh its on a 92 s10 4.3L v6 automatic trans 4 wheel drive. :(
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    Yes hazard switch could be bad and also your directional switch. I believe your brake lights might run through the direction switch. This is where a wiring diagram would come in very handy.

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  • crabscrabs Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 02 sonoma. I bought a reese hitch years ago. I dug it out, but can't seem to see how it will work.
    Any ideas? The hitch is a Type 3. 750-500 tounge weight.
    It may just be to big. I checked reese. All they showed were diagrams on assembly. Hope there's help. Thanks Crabs.
  • mattv1mattv1 Posts: 12
    I am thinking about taking out my 2.5 4cyl and dropping in a 305 or 350. What all would I have to do to make it fit. Do I need to make it carburated or can I use fuel injection. Also would the stock trans and rear end work
  • The service engine soon light comes on sometimes (not evereday) during highway driving, ussualy going faster than 55MHP, on my 1995 Chevy S10. But when i shut down the engine, and restart it again the light is off. Can anybody tell me what could be happening?
  • the wiring diagram i have is the haynes manual it doesn't say anything about the directional switch is that on the firewall? I'm not even sure where the hazard switch is. in the haynes manual it says the break lights go through the hazard/turn switch is that under the dash or is that on the fire wall? the wires that go to the rear come out of a little black box with a bolt through the middle on the drivers side connected to the firewall. there's 3 sets of wire clusters coming from that box. one goes to the front lights one goes to the rear lights and the other goes to the engine. Thank you very much for the help.
  • My 2001 GMC Sonoma pickup has only 22,400 miles on it and the SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT keeps coming on. I had the 3 O2 sensors replaced and that worked for a day or two. Then the light started coming back on. I took it to the garage which had performed the scan and replaced the O2 sensors. They re-scanned the engine but could not set any codes. We tightened the fuel cap for two full turns of clicking. The light didn't go off right away but did so after a few miles of driving. It stayed off for 110 more miles of driving but is now lighting back up. The vehicle seems to run OK except for the light remaining on. My garage mechanic says that the problem is inferior American quality in the cars they build. I believe he is correct but won't be able to pass the required emissions test with the light blazing away. Have any of you been able to solve this problem?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    With the light on what codes are set now.
    " My garage mechanic says that the problem is inferior American quality in the cars they build"
    Is that another way of saying he has no idea how to fix it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    the direction switch on your steering column, that signals left and right.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • It may just very well be that my "mechanic" doesn't have the answer to my problem. In any event, I've just ordered an OBDII Scanning tool and SERVICE ENGINE SOON light resetter from Digimoto Sales in West Bend WI. Total price including shipping was $67.30. They say that the tool will tell me what fault codes are set and will be able to turn off and reset the light. Sometimes you just have to take the bull by the horns and do the job yourself. I've always bought American pickup trucks and sedans. I don't want to turn to the Japanese as they probably have their problems too!
  • i too have a fuel pump problem, if i tap the gas tank the pump runs again. i have also other things that act up so i think that the pcm may be at fault as the truck was a victim of a front end accident. my wipers don't run wight, the seat belt lite flashes, starting is low at times,trans jerks into gear, the truck only has 190k and i am very distressed with this as i don't think that it is old enough for these problem too a cure. my truck is a 1998 gmc sonoma/2.2/2 wheel drive
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "if i tap the gas tank the pump runs again"

    If the connections are ok at the tank, it usually means the pump's dinked.

    For the rest of the problems, start looking for a loose or corroded ground.
  • Boy Chris !!! Thanks So Much.. !!!!

    I saw your post - and decided that, eventually, my cables would go as well (2002 GMC Sonoma 36K and alwarys garaged at home)- so I clicked over to NAPA and bought a set - they arrived last Thursday.

    As luck would have it - I climbed up on the tail gate Saturday to sweeep out the truck - and you can guess what happened !!! Yup - one broke . !!! The other was failing (Inside corrosion inside the the cable Vinyl jacket) at the bottom of the loop ..)

    For others - THIS IS A DANGEROUS thing to happen (and a definate design or mfg flaw -a the cable ends are open for water entry - the aftermakets were sealed (Clever Chinese)!!) !! I was just was climbing up on the tailgate - but If I had a heavy machine on the tail gate - I could have gotten seriously hurt and damaged the truck the cargo etc.!!!

    I'm not real pleased with the E-Clip install - it should of at least had a backup washer for stability so it will not "angle" and snap out the clip - another project I'll do later in the winter ..)

    This needs a re-call !!1

    Thanks !!! (Took me about an hour to do too ...)

    Canufixit
  • First timer here. I have an '85 S-10. My plan is to drop in a 350, (bored, maybe). I also want to convert it over to four wheel drive. My question is this: Would the front stock axle hold up under that kind of power? I will have a full size axle shortened for the rear. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've thought of having a full size unit shortened fo rthe front also. Any thoughts on that idea. Thanks.
  • My Thoughts ... (not that thay are worth much :')

    I Think the issues would be with the "Weakest links" in the drive train - In this case the U joint and the Tires (Friction to the road).

    When intense power is suddenly applied - something has to give. I think most of us have spun the tires... Should this weak link be greater then the next (due to fat /sticky tires), I'd think the next thing to go would be the U-joints ..

    So my overall point is - if the Axels are not the "weak link - then they should not be the problem. But, When you Beef up everthting else (UJoints, Fat / oversized tires, etc.) - the next thing will go - perhaps the axels or the gears in the drive train ...

    Canufixit ...
  • Got a 98 S-10 with a brake light problem. When I push on the brake pedal the lights go on and then off, even though I have pressure applied to the pedal.Replaced the switch, but it's still doin' it. I hear a click when I push on the pedal that coincides with the brake lights going on, & I thought that this was made by the switch.But I'm wondering if it ain't a relay or something else that I'm hearing. Way I always figured, the brake lights should go on and stay on as long as the pedal has pressure applied. Anybody got any ideas?
  • I recently purchased a 2001 GMC Sonoma with 17,500 miles. The vehicle has the 4.3L V-6. I notice a sound like an electric drill between 2nd and 3rd as it shifts. As the transmission warms this sound goes away.

    Any ideas??? Thanks
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Power for the brake lights goes from the brake switch through the signal switch, then out to the rear bulbs. Here's the wiring schematic:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8018c183.gif
This discussion has been closed.