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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • Is my Transmission going out? Some time it grind when I down shift to 2. But after I stop and shift to 1 then 2 it work fine.
  • To follow up, DO NOT Leave your ignition switch in the ON postion unless the engine is running. As a result of my leaving the switch in the ON position, I had to replace the battery, the ignition module in the distributor (which means pulling the intake manifold to access the distributor!), the coil and then the alternator. A total electrical cascade of damage.
  • My 99 Sonoma w/vortec v-6, always starts but unless I let it warm up for at least 10 minutes dies when I put it into gear. I can expediate it by putting it into gear and pressing hard on the excellerater which gets me going but sounds bad for the truck(chugging etc.). I've taken it to dealers who come up with nothing. Any insight anyone? would be greatly appreciated...
  • Ken this could be your coolant level is low causing super heating and cooling check to see if your heater go's hot and cold while on the hot setting. If so need to find the leak and fix it.
    Or temp sending unit run ohms from ground signal check to see you dont have a hole rubbed in the wire if contacked with ground it would send the gauge into a high reading.
    good luck
  • Josh could be a few diffrent problems but easy first
    you have two temp seding units on this unit one for the gauge has one wire, one for the computer has two wires if this one has gone bad the pc thinks your s10 is always cold
    if you have a scaner compare these sending unit against each other or use a temp gun to compare.
    next the idle air contol valve IAC take it off and clean it
    located on the throttle body.
    last damping valve or isulator tube. its just a 3/8" hose in your tank that connect the fuel pump to the feed line over time it get a small hole in it your fuel pressers look ok at idle but not under a load it drops enough of this pressure through this pin hole to not pop the injectors.
    Good luck
  • Replace the crank sensor chev has had this problem for years on the 5.7 and 4.3 but wont fix it untill it gos all the way bad your teck should see the incorrect pid reading while trying to crank it.
    Good luck
  • A 2001 is obdII if the light comes on you have just set a hard fault code it will be stored in memory and stay there untill cleared but the light can go off if the prober steps are ran and passed for three consecutive trips back to back.
    you should have the shop look at this you need to know what the fault was. this truck can set a emissions failure fault and still run and fill fine because the computer will make adjustments to compensate. but this can somt times create even more problems and cost more money. If you saw the cap turn the light off replace it.
  • have a s-10 2000 w/ 2.2 flex fuel runs fine around town but get on highway step it down it has little to no power

    have change plug / fuel filter / and it has a new fuel pump any ideas thanx
  • I recently had the same problem with my '03 Ford Ranger. I took it to the dealer and it was "Idle Air Control Valve". Found out that you can take your vehicle to Autozone and they can plug in handheld device to check sensors for free.
  • I am having an intermittent problem with my 1998 S10 extended cab with the 4.3 Vortec V6. Only when the temp gets below 30 degrees or so I notice a "spot" of antifreeze on the pavement. It's not a puddle and the level in the motor doesn't go down very fast. No leaks while running at temperature, this seems to leak after driven and cooled down. Has anyone experienced this problem? Had intake manifold gasket replaced, water-pump is ok, hoses look alright, it looks like it's leaking from around where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water pump. I'm stumped. Oh, tightened hoses etc. 47000 miles on truck (great driver, just hate anything to leak in my drive.)

    Thoughts?

    MAF :shades:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Use an inspection mirror and verify it's not coming from the water pump weep hole.
  • slideslide Posts: 2
    A new PCM fixed the problem. This thing controls everything. Thanks for all the non-response!
  • I have a 1995 extended cab which I think has the same transmission. I can't repair the trashed transmission I have. I have not found another transmission yet. What other transmission could I adapt? Why is THIS 1995 so different.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    I found 7 pages of them listed here. Fill in your zip code and indicate model/engine:

    http://car-part.com/
  • I really can't figure out where it's leaking from. I drove over 300 miles today and no leak, just after it gets down to the temp outside. Waterpump does "squeak" for about a minute when started. Temp has been 17 or so. I think I will just take it to someone who has the time and have them see where it's coming from. *sigh* Thanks for the advice :)

    MAF
  • I have a 96 gmc sonoma auto 2.2 RWD, it only has 75.000 on the clock. It seems to drive ok (apart from the rattle that gets quieter as it warms up, but never goes away compleatly). When I put it into park and rev the engine it does a strange thing, it cuts out at high revs, then when the revs drop it starts again, then when the revs go up again it cuts. all this happens in about 1/2 second bursts until I take my foot off the gas.

    Can anybody please help me, I just bought this truck a few weeks back and need it for my job.
  • My new mechanic is trying to tell me that when the fuel pump on my 1993 (200K miles) failed something with the ignition module also goes out....(I can't remember the exact name of the part) Does this make sense? Is he trying to stick it to me? He has estimated the cost to be over $500. What do you think? He already has everything torn apart and is beginning to reassemble...Am I being "hosed"???
  • Along with the first message (directly above) I have just spoken with my mechanic who said he had to take the bed off the truck to get to the fuel pump....Is that how it is done? I now have a new fuel pump and electronic something/something which give the engine spark but the injectors are not pumping...he has fuel pressure and spark, what is going on????? HELP!!!! QUICK!!!!
  • Not tried it in reverse, just in park, it almose sounds like it runs out of fuel or floods. The truck also seems to not have much power and the tick over is a bit lumpy (vibrates a lot) and it is a bit of a gas guzzler, one tank of gas only takes me just over 100 miles (20 something gallon gas tank)...Could it be a stuck choke, if so where the bloody hell is the choke? (not used to auto trucks with injectors, being a British chap) :)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Fuel injected engines don't have a choke. Cold starts require a richer air/fuel mixture. Carburated engines did this by maintaining the same fuel flow rate but decreasing airflow rate (the choke). Fuel injected engines do it by maintaining the same airflow rate but increasing the fuel injector pulse width to deliver more fuel. Same result, a richer mixture for cold startup. Re revving the engine in Park or Neutral, engineers have made vehicles owner-resistant by incorporating a rev limiter to prevent excessive and unnecessary r.p.m. in Park or Neutral, as previously mentioned.
  • I'm not a mechanic by any means but I do like to tinker with things. I changed my fuel pump on my '99 and didn't have to take the bed off. There are a couple of straps and a cover over the gas tank that have to be removed along with the tank. Unless the straps are stuck in the channel of the body then maybe that is why he is saying the bed has to come off. As far as something else going out along with the fuel pump, I've never heard or seen anything like that. Maybe someone else in this forum can shed some light on that problem.
  • I have a similar problem. I recently purchased a 2002 S-10 P/U with the 4.3 Vortec. This truck was originally purchased to be part of a fleet of trucks for Enterprise rent a car. It seems to have a speed limiter enabled, from the PCM, that shuts down the fuel injectors at 80mph. I hope that the dealer will be able to re-flash the PCM, and set to "off" this and the auto headlamp and door lock feature. The way I look at it is if I want the doors to lock, i'll lock'em. Good Luck, -Bob :)
  • cranks over and over and if you don"t touch the gas peddle it will start after 30 turn overs or constently holding key to start position,,change fuel filter, fuel pump, been on lindsay chevrolet electronic scope twice, and no results, also change rotor , wire plugs cap, new gas battery coil, feul pump reset fuse/switch, etc, it was bought from up in the high country, mountain i guess!! Said to have been set up for high altatude, how do i correct this setting., it"s thoutle body injected and is spraying fuel the whole time you"re turning it over to start,,,does"nt make sence to me please help, thank you donnydodad@msn.com springfeild MO
  • ken38ken38 Posts: 8
    Its is a Chevy S10 --2001.
    All fuses are good---under the hood fuse panel and the side fuse panel left of steering.

    However, to redefine the problem:

    "Check gauges" light comes on just after car warms up. Reading goes up to max 310 degrees then down again to normal and the "check gauges" light would come on.

    When I turn on the heater controls for heat the AC still blows cold, then suddenly and hesitatingly, after a while, it start blowing heat as it should. It is erratic.

    What could it be?

    Thanks

    Ken38
    ===
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    As stated by dmblair, you don't have to take the bed off, but is one of the ways to access the pump, allowing the tank to stay in place.

    Anyway, you didn't state the pressure. Can check rather easily, connect to the schraider valve on the fuel line, if equipped and turn the ignition key. Should get pressure by turning the key, pump should kick on and pressurize the system. Another way to see if the pump is pumping and gauge the flow somewhat is disconnect the line before the filter (on the frame rail, driver side). Turn the ignition on, have a catch can under the line, and see what the flow looks like.

    Also, can he (or you) hear the pump kick on?. He did check the filter to make sure it wasn't clogged or put on backwards? Better yet, he put on a new correct filter correct?
  • I didn't check back for all the previous posts - so pardon me if this was covered - but this sounds like a sticky thermostat - has this been changed ?? There are classic symptom .. Hot, then cold, etc. And you verified the gauge appers to be working as you get hot then cold from the heater ....
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Have you checked the coolant, is it brown with sludge. 4.3 had a serious problem with Dexcool going bad. Remove the radiator cap and check for rust.
  • I have a 2001 Chevy S-10 3 door pick-up truck with a 2.2L 4cly with P/S, P/B, A/C and a 5 speed manual trans. with 143000mi on it. The other day on my way home from work I picked up my truck from the park and ride lot. Vehicle started normally but when I drove up the freeway on ramp I noticed a shortage of power. The engine made a real funny noise, kind of hard to describe. Sounded kind of like when the secondaries open up on a carbureted car. But I wasn't going anywhere. Didn't overheat, didn't die when you let it go back to idle. Idled fine. But when you push on the gas and get it up to 2000rpm the rpm starts to fluctuate. Down to 1000rpm, back up to 2000rpm and so on. It makes that noise (secondaries opening on a carb car) the whole time. It will never go past 2000rpm. I changed the plugs, wires, air filter, and fuel filter. No effect. I never had any troulbe with this truck in the past! Any ideas as what could be wrong? I can't afford to take it to a mechanic right now, especially with the holidays approaching. I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!
  • One thought ... when was the last time previous to that day that went to the gas station (dis you use your your usual gas station)?? Is it possible you got a bad batch of Gas ?? There is a gas station near me that is notious for bad gas/ water in the fuel. All the locals stay away - but out of area cars get hit (as it as it's near the interstate). A Repair shop down the street makes a good living as it's only a mile or so down the road - just drops gas tanks and/or and changs the fuel ..
  • THANK YOU for all of the responses! As I said, after installing a new fuel pump, screen and ignition module we had spark and fuel flow but the engine would not start. My mechanic called one of his "buddies" who suggested checking the fuse that controls the injectors..guess what...it had blown; as designed when the fuel pump goes out! With the fuse replaced the engine started! Keep the above in mind if the same thing happens to you! (The ignition module replaced was the original when the truck rolled off the line...it had over 200K miles and 12 years of wear...not too bad!!!)
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