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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • bigbutrbigbutr Posts: 111
    Well, I had heard of dangers of getting water in an engine since I was a previous owner of a Jeep CJ-7, so I didn't keep trying to turn it over once I realized what had happened. That in itself probably saved me from a major repair bill. Now I'm praying that there's nothing serious with the tranny. Thanks for all the input. I'll let you know what happens.
    Steve
    Panama City
  • bigbutrbigbutr Posts: 111
    Just got off the phone with the AAMCO people and they said that a bunch of codes came up when they hooked up the diagnostics tool. Said it was going to take 'hours' of diagnosing (ie, hope you have a hefty pocketbook) to figure out because of all of the sensors involved. Also, I might have to replace the PCM (about $800 was what he said and that didn't include all of the other charges).
    Maybe I'm just being naive because the engine runs fine, but could there be one main problem which would cause multiple error codes? I'll be going by in the morning to get a list of them since I found another site which tells what each code represents. I don't want to tell them how to do their job, but I get the feeling they see me as a cash cow when something 'relatively' simple could be causing the problems. Any ideas?
    Thanks
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    Water in the transmission electrical connectors would cause multiple codes. Like alcan said get out of there, go to an honest independent shop. The national chains are not a good choice.
  • bigbutrbigbutr Posts: 111
    That's one of the problems, finding an honest independent shop since we've only been in the area less than six months. I told AAMCO not to continue on, though I wonder if they did anything to begin with since their bill ($42) said their complete external diagnostic service didn't find anything wrong with the tranny. Not that I'm surprised.
    I did make them give me the codes that were pulled, but all have to do with the TP sensor, MAP sensor, Mass Air Flow Circuit and IAC System High RPM. Don't know how those relate to the tranny, but I guess they do.
    I'll get it situated at some point. Thanks for advice.
    Steve
    Panama City
  • I have a 2000 GMC Sonoma and I was driving down the highway going about 70 mph when it just turned it self off and wouldn't restart. It acts like it is out of gas but it couldn't be because I had just filled the tank not but minutes before. It's had all of it's scheduled maintence through out it's life and even with the one previous owner.
    My peliminary thoughts are that it's either a fuel filter, the fuel pump, or may be the aniti-theft mechanisim malfunctioning. Has anyone else had a similar problem if so what was the diagnosis? Just trying to save my self some time and money and get er' back on the road.
  • As you "Just filled it momens before" - any change you get tank full of Water ??
  • I also have a 2000 Sonoma. My Sonoma als recently went dead. I turned on the truck, it ran for maybe 3 seconds and then it went dead. We tried to jump it too but nearly melted the cables. There is no electricity at all, no lights on the dash board, nothing. There is also no head lights. Any idea what happened?
  • Hastin Wrote

    " I also have a 2000 Sonoma. My Sonoma also recently went dead. I turned on the truck, it ran for maybe 3 seconds and then it went dead. We tried to jump it too but nearly melted the cables. There is no electricity at all, no lights on the dash board, nothing. There is also no head lights. Any idea what happened? "

    This does not sound good ...

    As it "did" start and run a few seconds - I'd check the following;

    Possibility # 1.) Battery is OK but you have have a major cable open - Check Cable leads to / from battery, Engine, starter, Grounds to Engine, frame, etc. etc. Remove the Batery leads, Check the battery Voltage, Check the cables / resistance on all leads. Use a Volt/Ohm meter ...

    or - 2.) You have a real major DEAD SHORT. (the fact you melted your jumpers indicates this my be the problem) - A Short In the battery - or in the Truck. Remove the Battery leads, Check the battery for Voltage and if at 0 volts - check for short between terminals. Check the +12 cable for contunity to ground. If it's in the Truck - Start disconnecting ONE cable point at a time with the OHM meter hooked up and Isolate the short ...

    I'm hoping it's the battery - or an easily found short (Cable rubbing, bad starter/Alternator... Alternative is you fried all the electronics .... Hope not ...
    Good Luck - Let us Know what you find!!!
  • Yes, Ive noticed that the light gets brighter.
    What could be the problem exactly? Where can have it checked?
    Sorry about the bold type.
  • When the Truck senses a problem with the ABS - to puts the light on at under full brightness ...

    Could be a number of ABS things - but check your sensors on each wheel. Wires my be cut - sensor / bracket bent - too far away from the rotors - so it can't sense the wheel spinning ...
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Key on, engine off, jumper ALDL terminals A and H as shown below. Count the flashes on the brake warning light and post the codes:

    http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
  • donb4donb4 Posts: 1
    have a 2.3 4 standard 5 speed, when I back up It want to run about 7-8 mph, and the 1st gear run to fast . H as anyone ever change the clusters to lower to gear ratio between 1-2, thank for any input.
  • I have the same problem with my 2000 Chevy S10 Blazer. The power windows don't work at all. The fuse is fine, but the wiring diagram says there is a 30 amp circuit breaker that I can not find in the I/P fuse panel or in the under the hood fuse box. Anyone know where this circuit breaker is hidden or what else I should look for?
    Thanks,
    toby_pitt
  • 2000 S10 with 2.2 Litre, 85000 miles. Truck would start and idle fine, and it would even run good for about three miles. Then, it suddenly had no power. You could turn off the ignition, and it would start right up, but lacked power, coughed and spit.

    Code read po171 which is lean on left bank. First, I changed plugs and fuel filter...no change. Changed both of the 0/2 sensors..no difference. Changed tp sensor and the map sensor...same thing. Disconnected exhaust to check for bad Catalytic converter..same thing.

    Fuel pressure was fine....at idle! At speed and heavy throttle, the pressure would fall quickly. I changed out the fuel pump and PRESTO!!!! Problem solved. Damn thing runs as good as new now.

    I pulled off the bed of the truck and the fuel tank was right there. 8 15mm bolts, and a couple of electrical connectors and it lifted right off. Made my life easier.
  • Thanks TD !! Always nice to have someone post the "Cure".
    I had a 93 Olds - Mostly ran fine - however when you were accelerating - say on a ramp to get on the highway - the engine would bog down when you needed the power most.... It took the Shop a couple hours to find the issue (They almost changed the air flow sensor) - but it was the pump... At Idle the pressure was OK. At higher demand - the pressure dropped. IT had well over 100K mi at the time .. Cost me about $600 if I remember right ...
  • Hi toby,

    Per my 2002 S10/Sonoma GM Service manual ...

    It looks like a dark green wire come from the C Breaker to the Windows. Breaker is listed as "Relay Block Body". Location is listed as "Left Side of Dash, to the right of the I/P fuse block"

    Hope this helps ... (If you are in snow belt - I hope the Windows failed when they were "UP" and not "Down" ;')

    canufixit
  • HELP!.. I have had to replace my starter 3 times this year. What could be causing these to go bad so quickly? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. It gives no indication that it's about to fail either..

    :sick:
  • Have you had any recent top end exhaust work done, such as the flex pipe from the manifold to the top end of the cat? I replaced my starter, then a couple of months later had to have the flex pipe replaced. Starter went dead a month later. When I got under to check out the starter the guys from Merlins (who I don't recommend) put a pipe on that was bent wrong. They had to actually bump the heat shield out of the way to get the pipe to bolt correctly. This caused the starter to get smoking hot and burnt up. When I took it back down to them they did get a pipe that was correct and replaced my starter. But it shouldn't have happened to begin with if the retard knew what he was doing when he put it on.
  • I had the Cad Converter replaced along with the O2 Sensors, New Clutch and Fly Wheel, New Starter, New Water Pump, The usual Tune Up, and Then all these starters going bad.. Seems there is something simple thats wrong.. There is also a problem with my Transmission, the bearings need replacing, perhaps it's getting too hot and burning up the starter since they are in close proximity to each other.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Are you by chance buying your starters from Auto Zone??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    engine heat is one possibility, faulty installation can do it, also buying cheapo discount starters, which can have a very high failure rate. Get one from NAPA or other reliable source.

    MODERATOR

  • Yep, you should be getting nearly twice that for mileage on the highway...my '94 has a 2.2 and 5 speed and routinely got 30-31mpg in its younger days....it now has 225,000 miles and still does the high 20s....my son is driving it at college...it's been a gem....Check fuel delivery (filter) and check the exhaust smell and what the residue inside the tailpipe is like. It may offer some clues to excess unburned fuel exiting the combustion chambers...sheesh....with that kinda mileage you might as well be driving a full-size
    good luck
  • I have a 2002 S10 Crewcab w/4.3l with the same thing happening, its not a fuel problem. Had it in the garage for a couple days, moved it out and a couple hrs later went to start it, turns over, but that is it. Haven't had the time to get it looked at yet. Figuring it may be the crank sensor.

    Any suggestions
  • What does "Fail" mean ?? Did it Smoke up ?? Grind up the gear?? Just "stop" - no noise, no noise - does it at least click when it dies ??

    If the Tranny and Cluch have been removed - I was thinking the starter could be aligned wrong and it's "jamming" on engagement - causing the statrer to bind / overheat, etc .. but you have few clues ... can you elaborate ?? Did all the pinion Gears Looks new when it died ??? Etc ...
  • bka76bka76 Posts: 4
    I have 2000 s-10, when lights are on all lights work, when push in the brake drivers side rear goes out completely.when key is out of truck brake light works on drivers side rear
  • Hi,

    Does the Signal light work on the drivers side when you turn on the left directional (with Ignition on ??)...
  • bka76bka76 Posts: 4
    yes both front and back blinkers work with ignition on(alot dimmer than pass. side in rear)
  • Hi, I'm looking at some 2002 Pick up Schematics (they are a bear to read ...)

    Two more Questions ...

    - Does your 3rd break light work OK ?? (Both with ign on and with it off ) ??

    - Try you Flashers - both with ing on and off ...

    Let me know what you see ...

    There are two paths to the Stop/Turn signals ... I'm trying to figure out with path to trace ...

    Canufixit ..
  • bka76bka76 Posts: 4
    3rd works ign. on & off

    flashers work ign. on & off

    yeah, I can not figure it out. I look under the truck i see the wires running along drivers side & splitting 1 goes to drivers side rear light mount & 1 goes to passenger side and ends it looks like.thanks for responding I am puzzled
This discussion has been closed.