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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • OK - My inputs ...

    As the LR Brake light does work "in some confguration" - I will assume that the rear wiring is OK .. (Bulbs, contacts, Rear wiring ground , etc. etc .. - I assume you have checked these as we'll ....??)

    The Schematics are just terrible to follow - but I can say this ...
    There are multiple feeds paths to get power to the lights "up Front" of the vehicle (12v is always on for the Break lights - Power when the ign is on (for the Signals), etc ... As the Domestic version vehicles should be using the same side light bulbs for the Brake and turn - I'm assuming the issue is on the "Ign on" feed path.... This comes from various locations - and in summary I'd check the following;

    - Fuse in the interior fuse box (left end of Dash) - Check
    "Turn" fuse

    - In engine Compartment Fuse Block (Left side fender) check these 3 Fuses/modules;
    Stop LP
    Lt Turn
    CMSL (Center high mounted Stop light)

    For all Above -Pull, Clean, check fuses for contunity, Replace if in question, etc. etc...

    The Final Item it might be (and I hope not ) is in the "Multi function Switch" - But this is in the Steering column ... Before I'd go in there - I'd take it to the Dealer ....

    Hope this helps ???

    Canufixit
  • I recently rebuilt a wrecked '03 s10 pickup. I had to replace a few parts on the motor that were broken from the wreck. One of them was the crank sensor, so I used a crank sensor out of a 2000 astrovan motor because it fit and the motor ran fine with it in. Now my "check engine soon" light comes on when I get on the freeway or hold it at 2200 rpm for a minute or more. I Pulled the codes and got "random/multiple cylinder misfire detected." Thinking it was my crank sensor, I went out and bought the correct one from the chevy dealer, installed it, and now my truck won't even start, it just clunks a few times and dies. I reinstalled Astro van sensor and it started just fine. Why won't the correct sensor work?
  • Last October I purchased a 2002 Chevy S-10 P/U, 4.3, FWD. I later found out that this vehicle was previously owned, much to my chagrin, by Enterprise Rent-A-Car. Evidently they had the PCM programmed to shut down the fuel injectors at 80mph. I would like to set this feature to "off", together with the automatic headlamps and the automatic door locking feature. Does anyone know of a device I could buy to do this; at the same time leaving all of the pre-programmed parameters intact? Thanks- Bob :confuse:

    P.S. Thanks PRP1010 for your response post dated 12/22. I hope you come up with a cure for the problem.
  • The auto headlamps and auto door locking can be shut off by yourself. If you look in the owners manual, it will tell you what to do. For the PCM you will have to likely take it to a garage or if a friend has the diagnostic tool to change the parameters. We use the Mactools Mentor for our work.
  • Put the Mentor scan tool on, no codes, replaced plugs, dist cap and rotor still won't fire.
  • Hey there I have been having some problems with starting my chevy s10... If my car has been idle for sometime 4+ hours it is difficult to start it. When I turn the ingition it will wine and crank and eventually it will start but there is definately a problem. I recently replaced the starter but wonder what could be causing this new problem. Any assistance is much appreciated.

    Thanks,
    DJ
  • I loaned my light trailer out and naturally the wiring pigtail came back damaged. I replace it not knowing that the wire (I assume, Is damaged somewhere). When I plugged it in, I first had turn signals for a minute or so, but nothing else. Now I have no turn, marker or brake lights on the left rear. Also, I have one of those trailer pigtail testers. Have no power to the trailer. Disconnected pigtail wiring harness and reconnected left rear light cluster directly into main harness with no change. Checked all fuses, both left dash and under hood. Flashers, running and turn all work on left front. Left turn blick fast. Flashers normal, both in ign on and off. Help!
  • bka76bka76 Posts: 4
    -------fixed--------
    I finally got under the truck and checked all connections. I un hooked the connection going to left rear light mount Tried the lights (nothing)straightened all wires cleaned all prongs plugged back in .Now everything works . I did also find a blown fuse Under hood (10A)I am so glad I didn't pay for this fix. :D
  • wally7wally7 Posts: 3
    just replaced water pump in 1999 ZR2 4.3and found that I had to re-torque bolts after a week or so because gasket started leaking. One of the two bolts right above said hose connection goes through into water space. Try a 14mm/9/16 (or maybe it was 13mm?) up in that blind space and tighten the bolts. worked for me! easier if you remove fan shroud.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Use sealer on any bolt going into a water jacket.
  • we bought a 2002 s10 and the first 200 miles i went thru 3 head gaskets, so i replaced the motor,so far the only problem i`m have now is a charging problem which i at a loss everything is fine so who knows i cant wait to sale this so called truck.should have got a ford
  • does anyone know how to get the defrost vent out of the dash? i bought a billet one to replace it with.
  • rcm710rcm710 Posts: 6
    Dear bon120r:
    Thanks for the reply. I have tried the remedies indicated in the owners manual, but they are only TEMPORARY changes. As soon as the ignition switch is turned off and on again, the original factory settings are replaced. For example, I know that pushing the "dome override" button 4 times will turn off the daytime running lamps, until you shut down the ignition. Same is true for the door locks. By pushing the lock switch through a particular sequence, it changes when the doors are locked; until the key is switched off. I will look into the device known as "Mactools Mentor" and find out if it can be of help here. Thanks again -Bob ;)
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    I agree that the Dome Overide /DTRL "resets" after vehicle shutdown/re-start - but not the door locks - not in my 2002 ... Once set - it has stayed that way for 4 yrs ...
  • Turns out it was the immobilizer. Put the key in the ignition turned it to on, then locked/unlocked the doors with the remote and started the truck. Fired up right away. Figures.
  • i just put a set of 245 50 r16 on my 2000 s-10 speedometer seems to be off by 10 mph any solutions
  • I have the same problem on my 98. I just pulled the dash bottom apart and found the acutators near the gas pedal to work but the lower one had a problem. The plate that it moves was either broken or disconnected on the inside of the blower cowling. I pulled the actuator from the plate and moved it by hand, definitly had a problem. I replaced the heater core last year had to pull the dash to take the blower cowling/assy out 10 hrs later done. That is what this would take to fix the prob. Instead I took a piece of 1/4 " fuel line I had hanging around put it up the floor duct about 1-1.5' and it opened the plate have floor heat now, in the summer I'll think about a good fix. This worked for me. Good luck
  • Hey Folks! Just purchased a beater 98 S-10 so I figure I will be seeking advice often. This truck has 113,000 on it and has bounced off every guard rail within 200 miles of me..however was running like a top when i bought it..out of the blue the thing lost almost all power..service eng soon light came on..and cat conv was glowing cherry red.
    I figured the cat con was plugged so I replaced it..to no positive effect..the new one is glowing just as brightly in no time..however there is a lot more exhaust getting through...still no power tho and S E S light is still on..
    any help? :confuse:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Is that 113,000 miles or kilometers? The cat conv is warrantied by GM for 80,000 miles or 130,000 kilometers. You should not have to pay for it, if your within these mileage amounts. The cat conv falls under the emissions warranty and is transferable to subsequent owners.
  • I have the same problem on my 98. I just pulled the dash bottom apart and found the acutators near the gas pedal to work but the lower one had a problem. The plate that it moves was either broken or disconnected on the inside of the blower cowling. I pulled the actuator from the plate and moved it by hand, definitly had a problem. I replaced the heater core last year had to pull the dash to take the blower cowling/assy out 10 hrs later done. That is what this would take to fix the prob. Instead I took a piece of 1/4 " fuel line I had hanging around put it up the floor duct about 1-1.5' and it opened the plate have floor heat now, in the summer I'll think about a good fix. This worked for me. Good luck
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    A good start would be to find out what codes are putting the SES light on. Looks like you are dumping fuel into your exhaust system.
  • chevy02chevy02 Posts: 19
    Mine wouldn't go into 4H, and I don't remember trying the 4L. We simply unhooked the battery for 5 minutes and then plugged the battery back in and it appears to work fine now. Something about needing to reset the computer... Cheap easy fix if it works.
  • thanks for the tip but it is miles... :(
  • thanks for the reply...diagnostics here i come! :confuse:
  • hey everybody, I'm wondering if anyone has any input on this. I have a 1999 s10 with the 2.2L engine. Haven't had any actual problems so far. For some reason when the engine is warmed up, it can't go past 3000 rpm. When I took it to the dealer for diagnostic, they ended up replacing the crankshaft sensor, and a injector on the no. 1 cylinder. However the problem is still there, the mechanics at the dealer are stumped. The number 1 cylinder is still reading a missfire at higher rpms. All they said is it could be either the drive chain tensioner or a bad valve. Since either one involves lots of time and money (both of which are at a premium), I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions, besides getting a 4.3L engine?
  • jh1956jh1956 Posts: 9
    My duaghter has a 1987 S10 4x4 whit 4.3 automatic trans. It will run great for about 1 mile then quits. I haven't had the time to check it out yet but would apperciate any comments. Also after it quits it won't restart for a couple of hours. Then will only run for about another mile.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    What speeds are you getting, my 99 2.2 auto will do 70 mph at 2600 rpm. At 3000 rpm I would think it would be near 80 mph.
  • I'm sorry, I should have mentioned that it has a manual transmission, so without higher engine speeds I'm driving like a granny. I usually shift around 3200-3600 rpm when I'm driving ( I live in Central Pennsylvania, lots of hills and moutnains)
  • My s10 has had some strange problems. It is a Vortec V6, LS. I don't know if these are problems that others are having, or if i'm the only one.

    1)My truck has had the "service engine soon" light on for a while. The truck will begin to miss, and eventually run on what sounds like 3-4 cylinders. If i let off the gas, the motor will catch up and start to run normal again.

    2)Also, when i am driving, the ABS and Parking Brake lights will light up in my dash. The truck will stumble, and almost sound like ity cuts out for a second. I've had problems in the past with this occuring and ultimately causing the truck to die. This has even happened on the Interstate!

    Whenever I took it a shop to let a friend of mine hook up a diagnostic machine to it, he found and cleared two codes. A 0300 and a 0350 I THINK. I know for sure one of them was an emissions code. I didn't even get out of the driveway before it started missing and running rough again.

    These problems have baffled everyone who i've asked. ANY suggestions or input would be greatly appreciated.
This discussion has been closed.