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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I thing the best way is take to anybody with a scanner,it dosen't have to be a dealer.You need the code thats stored,any thing else is a wild guess,just throwing parts at it will cost you more in the long run.I also have a 99 4 cyl but with only 19 K ,no light yet.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    all the parts i listed needed to be replaced truck has 100K on it. Also no ses light ever came on

    It threw no codes
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    guru101 has a code because he had a light,all ses light on stores a code.
  • tfazziotfazzio Posts: 2
    I've had a couple problems with my 99 S10.

    First, the third door began squeaking constantly. I took it to the dealer and the interior panel had come loose so they popped it back on. It happens from time to time but it's easy to fix on your own.

    Second, I always here a rattling sound from exhaust system. I took it to the dealer. Dealer replaced catalytic convertor (about 30,000 miles). It just started up again and I'm bringing it back in. Can anyone tell me why this keeps occurring?

    Third, something rattles under the hood but it is very intermittent. I have no idea what it is and dealer has not been able to figure out either.

    Last, the passenger seat recline handle sheared off. My friend has the same problem.

    Has anyone else experienced any of these issues? Any suggestions?
  • edk6edk6 Posts: 2
    I have a 93 S-10 Blazer that I originally purchased brand new. It's the 4.3L "W" motor that's on its way out after only 110,000 miles. After just replacing the water pump, intake manifold and the precious fuel injector, the local dealer and another trusted mechanic inform me that the main bearing is knocking and it's time for either a new motor or new vehicle. Talk about a disappoinment! For a vehicle that was mostly dealer maintained with regular tune-ups and oil changes and never saw "off road" terrain. Anyone else experience this with this motor? I've been reading a lot of the other articles here and yes, ball-joint replacements....I'm there twice over. Oh, and I've replaced 3 alternators on this too.

    A big hats off to the guy with the 410K miles on that vehicle. I guess some of us get lucky. I certainly expected more out of my Blazer, I don't think I'll be purchasing another one.
  • qiknisqiknis Posts: 1
    I have had both reclining handles break off. The passenger side on the first use. Now the passenger seat will not recline 10 days after the handle was replaced. The 3rd door handle cable broke. The rear seat rattled, till I ripped it out. The front passenger brake started sqealing at 28,000 miles. While replacing a flat tire the security lug split on the sides so the key would not work. Yes I know what I'm doing, I worked in a tire store in OR for 3 years. Took the truck to a tire shop and had all locking lugs removed. Then snapped a stud on a regular lug. Time for a new car. Oh yea, the DRL and automatic headlights drive me nuts.
  • davey69davey69 Posts: 2
    While I like my 2000 Chevy S-10 ZR2 I am having some problems with it. One problem is that it idles extremely rough and sounds like a diesel. But my biggest problem is the steering. It is an automatic trans and whenever I shift from say Park to Drive or Reverse to Drive or back the steering wheel "locks up". Totally can't turn the wheel. I have had a steering gear and power steering pump replaced and has not taken care of the problem. The dealership is telling me that it is because of the size of the tires that stiffness in steering is the problem. But it is not stiffness that is the problem, it is the wheel locking up. Just wondered if anyone else has ever encountered this problem. Thanks! And by the way, I had a S-10 prior to my ZR2 and HOT air coming in down by the floor board occured in both. I was told thats common in S-10's.
  • jerdavisjerdavis Posts: 1
    Hey guys, In the last 3 or so weeks I've been having some problems starting my blazer. The starter is running fine, the engine will turn over, but it won't catch. If I keep trying to start it it gurgles a bit, and eventually It'll start. Once it starts it runs perfect. I've got the 4.3l HO v6. About 110,000 miles.

    Here's a better description:
    1) turn ignition, no start
    2) turn again, engine fires, dies imediatly
    3) turn again, no start
    4) turn again, engine fires, tries to run, dies
    5) ... repeat a few more times
    6) turn again, engine fires, smooths out, runs like normal

    I've been driving it without problems in the last few weeks, it's just a PITA having to fiddle with it to get it started, and I'm concerned if it'll start at all when it gets cold again.

    Any help would be greatly apreciated!

  • schiferschifer Posts: 15
    You Blazer in a prime target for fuel pump and CPI problems.

    Fuel pumps lose thier prime and take a while to reprime. Makes it hard to start. They will soon fail. I changed my at 110,000 to avoid being stranded.

    The fuel pressure regulator on the CPI (fuel injector) unit leaks at this age. It will cause the intake plenum to go full rich and flood the engine while setting, resulting in hard starting. This leads to heavy carbon build up and must be fixed.

    To check, after the car sets a while, pull off the intake hose and open the throttle valve. If you smell gasoline, you have a problem. I replaced it myself for about $550.

    GM will replace California units with under 100,000 miles for free. Everyone else is screwed.

    With the new pump and CPI, my 94 runs great.

  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Posts: 172
    i have a 1993 s-10 with tahoe package...2.8 v6, five speed. i love this truck! the one problem i have with it is that when i put it in first gear and let up on the clutch, it shudders and shakes until i build some speed and go to second gear. this does not seem to be a clutch problem, and it isnt me...i have driven sticks for years. and it didnt always do this. my father in law says maybe a universal could cause that, but i have no idea. and ideas? thanks in advance guys, and keep on truckin'! its got 107k on it now, on its way to 200k, wish me luck.
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    Don't know if you'll see this. Your post was awhile ago. But the extreme is the lowered sport truck version of the S10 right? Thing is, towing doesn't just stress engine and brakes. You may think the V6 will be able to handle the load, but it also puts lots of stress on suspension components. On a lowered sport truck with a handling suspension like yours, the setup is designed for handling, not for heavy loads.
  • zr2zr2 Posts: 6
    I agree on the fuel pump. To test, just turn key on don't start. After 2 sec turn key off, and then back on again. Do this 5 times. Now try a full start. If it start right away and keeps running the check-value in fuel pump is bad. Had mine replaced under ext warranty at 55,000 or so ($500 chevy cost).
  • My mom has a '94 S-10 (2.2L engine with the 4-speed A/T), which she absolutely loves despite its anaemic acceleration. (I understand why; it came with an awesome detail job that turns heads even from the sports car drivers on the road.)

    She got the truck in March '94, which probably means it was made in '93, at the Shreveport, LA plant. The wiper motor's started acting funny - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I searched the NHTSA recall database and found that the '95s were recalled for this problem, but no mention of the '94 model year. I read in one of these posts that the reason for the '95 recall was a bad circuit board.

    I'm going to get hold of a Chilton's manual soon enough for the vehicle. Anyone replaced the motor on their '94 themselves? Can't drive in the South in summertime without wipers, as summer storms tend to pop out of nowhere, and I'd hate for her to get into an accident, especially if it's Chevrolet's fault for installing bad OEM equipment.

    BTW, anything that can be done to fix the awful acceleration on these 2.2L engines that doesn't involve putting in a small-block V8?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Should have bought the 4.3 V6,but then it would cost more.My 99 2.2 is rated 120 hp 140 ft lb torque and goes good,std cab 2 wd auto a/c Leer cap.
  • greystrkgreystrk Posts: 1
    I too had this happen. The gas cap seemed to be on tight. Took it to the dealer and he tightened the gas cap, even though I had already done that, and told me to drive it and see if it went out. He said it can take up to 5 drives, each being 10 miles in duration. Also had a friend who thought his cap was on tight, re tightened it, and the light went out during his next drive.
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    First, sorry to hear so many of you are having trouble with your S10s. This is my second one, and both have been great, trouble-free trucks. I had a Ford Ranger in between. Nice truck, that Ranger, but never again. Long story.... It will be all GM/Chevrolet products for me from now on.

    My current ride is a 2000 S10 Extended cab 2WD, wtih V-6, automatic and loaded to the gills. It's one year old, have nearly 17,000 miles on it and have had no problems, except for my passenger seat recliner handle breaking off. Glad to find out I'm not the only one that happened to.

    My question is this: the truck has the 4600 GVW suspension package. When full, it is smooth and totally under control, but when empty, it rides pretty rough. I'd like to know what, if any, modifications other owners have made to improve the ride, but still have a decent load capability.

    If you basically rebuilt your entire suspension system to the tune of $3,000-$10,000, thanks, but no thanks. I'm not planning on going that radical. But, if you did try a different brand of shock absorber, tire, or remove that bottom flat leaf from the rear suspension and had good results, let me know.


  • jim4444jim4444 Posts: 124
    Trucks are meant to haul or tow etc. Not that that is news to anybody.

    My old S10 rode ok and I never worried about it but when I moved halfway across the U.S. and was towing a trailer, man what a difference it made. It was never so smooth.

    I have a 99 V6 S10, Z85 suspension and its awesome. When empty the ride can be rough. I havent loaded it down like I did with my old truck yet but I didnt buy an Impala either.

    The uniroyals that came with the truck are a joke, a little rain and you could put a feather on the gas pedal and you'd be sideways.

    So I got real tires, Michelins and my truck is fine.

    Its a truck. Not a car or El Camino.

    Maybe tires will help you out, maybe you need a car?
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207

    Not very helpful. Yes, I know its a truck. Yes, I've owned two El Caminos, and know the difference. Yes, I've owned two S-10s, and yes, I've ridden in trucks that ride better than my S10. And, yes, I know the difference between a car ride and a truck ride. That is not what I asked....

    Once again, I'm looking for anyone that has tried various shock/tire combinations, or any other reasonable modification that noticably changed the ride of their S10.

  • hemiheadhemihead Posts: 8
    Sup guys,

    I have a 97 S-10 with a 4banger and a 5spd with about 91k on it, good truck, glad I got the extended warrenty. Anywho, like Jim, I put Michelins on mine, 215/70/R15 X-ones to be exact. These tires just put the useless-royals that it came with to shame, they handle great, don't scream when you make a U-turn, wear perfect, and most importantly, are really good in wet weather. With the other tires, I also could lite'm up in the rain when not trying, not to mention the rear tires coming loose while goin up a hill on a freeway at 60mph. The michelins came with an 8yr unlimited mileage warrenty, you just can't beat that. The current set I have was replaced for free, wore the others out in about 2 yrs commuting to school on a windy country road. They are just great all around, they wear very well too if you keep them rotated. I wore that other set out just taking corners to fast and such, but I kept them rotated to make it all even. They also look good, better stance than the skinny tires it came with, they didn't last like 20k until they were at the wear marks. SO, I highly suggest these tires, very safe, good traction, and well wearing tires. As for shocks, replaced the factory ones with Monroe sensa-tracs, they have been really good too, lifetime warrenty. I have noticed that most S-10s have a rear sagging problem when they are not loaded, mine did that from day one, was just weird, I even have the heavier suspension. I put monroe sensa-trac load stabilizing shocks on the back. They are basically the same as the regular xept they are beefier and have springs on them, this raised up the rear end a bit and makes it handle well when hauling stuff. This combination makes it handle very well also, the ride is also not to bad. One other thing, how long are the clutches lasting in your trucks and does anyone have a tach on their 4 cyl, if so, what does it redline and idle at? I put an aftermarket on mine, just wanna know.

  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Mine has dash red lines starting at 5800 rpm & solid red lines starting at 6400 rpm.The idle speed is 900 rpm,I asked the dealer if that was too high and he said no,I think its because of the clutch fan being engine driven.Any other questions just ask.
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