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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions



  • no, its a 2.2L, and I went out and bought the manual so I could try and locate everything, but the stupid book doesn't have a diagram. I found what I think is the air pump near the cat with two tubes coming from it, and disconnected the tubes temporarily and found no moisture or water. Don't know where to go from here!
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    The reason I asked is I have never heard of an air pump on a 2.2L OHV engine. I have a 99 2.2 with no pump and once owned a 2000 2.2 OHV and no pump.
    One way to be sure is under the hood is the emissions decal, all the emissions installed are listed there, take a look, you really got my curiosity up. :)
  • We are thinkin of buying a 1989 Chevy Blazer S-10 4WD automatic. But the transmission is slipping. We own a 1986 Chevy S-10 pickup automatic and thought about using the transmission out of it for the Blazer. But this is the the transmission interchangeable with the 4WD? Everything is interchangeable but we arent sure if the 4WD will cause a problem in swapping the tranny out. Thx, Sweets
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    If the transfer case bolts on to the back of the transmission the output shaft has to be changed. You need to completely disassemble the tranny to do it, its about the first part you install on build up. :(
  • Anyone who has this problems as well, the result was a lose vacuum hose. I have replaced the hose and it works well now.
  • come to find out, they have just changed the name of it-it is the smog pump, but apparently GM/California got together and decided they didn't like the name anymore and just wanted to confuse all of us. Anyways, I reset the computer, and no code has come back. I think since it has been so humid, that's what got into the air/smog pump, but the heat dried it up. Having the cat replaced at the dealer under warranty next week so we''ll see.
  • i had an 88 s10 did the same thing check the engine computer mine had a crack in the resin and it would overheat the computer and cut out i changed the computer and i worked fine
  • 1987 GMC S15 Engine Surge.
    When I start my truck, if I drive right away without giving a 2 min. warm up time, at the first stop when I push in the clutch, the engine will surge out of control up and down. Eventually it will start to calm down and when the idle has reached the lowest point, it is good to drive again and wont happen until the next day.
    I can avoid the problem by letting it warm up and idle down to the lowest point before driving. The problem is much worse in the winter with cooler temps.
    Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 1995 S10 with the 4.3L TBI V6. Immediately after I start my truck then drive the engine surges. The problem will go away after I drive my truck for awhile. This seems more prevalent with the AC on. Sometimes the truck will idle down then die especially with the AC on. The engine does not seem to accelerate correctly even after the initial surging occurs.

    I took my truck to a mechanic and they tested some things with engine scanner. One problem they found was that when you accelerate, the engine timing was retarding instead of advancing. The shop told me I should replace the ignition module in the distributor which I did. This seemed to help a little but the problem still exists. I have replaced all of the standard maintenance parts (plugs, cap, rotor, wires, 02 sensor) and the catalytic converter only has 20K miles on it.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on any other items to replace? Why would the AC cause my truck to make this problem worse? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
  • nestornestor Posts: 1
    I've been getting that code on my 2000 chevy s10 2.2 auto, the truck normally starts running ok but after a few minutes I get the SES light on and starts acting up. it shifts really hard, it doesn't downshift if I floor the gas, in fact it doesn't do any downshifting unless I stop completely, any ideas?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Test the TPS or just replace if it's not much money, the transmission goes into default, full pressure. The computer needs to see throttle position to know when to shift, it's all related to the TPS problem. :)
  • chevlvrchevlvr Posts: 18
    tps is your throttle position sensor, dont know if you've had any problems
    like spitting, sputtering at take off or not, but I have a 2000 s10 2.2L, and
    had to replace mine for that reason......good luck
  • chevlvrchevlvr Posts: 18
    tps sensor about $65, depending, and also is a special order part or
    dealer part.
  • I'm new to these posts so hoping someone here may be able to shed some light on my 98 S-10 2.2 5 speed. The truck has developed a miss at all speeds..... idle, acceleration..doesn't go away accept on deceleration..probably still there, just not noticable. SES light is on and a code p0302 is there...misfire number 2 cylinder...sounds easy so far.. so here's what has been done to try to correct the problem. Ignition module, both ignition coils, plug wires and plugs were all changed. No improvement. Also did a compression test..all cylinders reading even..175-180 lbs each. I checked for good spark at each plug wire and is firing. I used a long screwdriver to listen to the injectors to see if they were all at least ticking..they all were and none louder than another. I have searched and searched for a flowchart or diagnostic tree for this code to maybe steer me in the right direction. It must be classified information. Now, can anyone tell me if the code is generated by the computer sensing the ignition module or from the injectors, or both, or neither??? I would drive it to Auto Zone for a scan but the inspection sticker is expired and wont pass emissions inspection until I can correct this. Plus, it's running so bad I'm afraid of doing serious damage to it. Has anyone else had to deal with this before?? I unplugged the injectors one at a time and verified that number 2 is the culprit...very little or no change when disconnected. There is no smoke from the exhaust. However, I do suspect an injector because I cannot think of anything else it could be....any thoughts???? My brother bought this truck new and has never had a problem until this. And this started suddenly. I think I listed everything I can say that is related to the problem....btw the truck has 110k on it.. Any help would be GREATFULLY appreciated. Thanks, Steve
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would try some injector cleaner, if that won't work you could change the injector. They are not cheap so you could swap 2 and see if it moves. Techron is one of the better injector cleaners, just put it in the tank. :)
  • I had troubles last winter starting my 2.2L 5-speed Sonoma when it sat for a few days when the fuel level was below 1/4. Now I've experienced problems when driving the truck around town and it starts to act like its running out of fuel. This has happened when the tank was well above half. If I kept feathering the gas pedal it will keep running. If I shut it off and re start it seems to run normal. The first two incidents occurred without a SES display. Now the symptoms have changed and the truck seems to have less power and the SES display has lit but disappeared before I could get it to the dealer(1-2 days). I had the fuel filter with pressure regulator replaced as well as top end cleaning. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • chevlvrchevlvr Posts: 18
    I had exact same problem on my 2000 s10, they can still pull the code, if
    they go into code history on their code reader. the computer does save the code even though ses goes out. the problem is most likely your tps(throttle position
    sensor) common on these vehicles. good luck
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    As a last resort - make sure there is nothing floating around in your tank... a piece of plastic / bag or something else will suck up to the strainer - then float away after you kill the engine/suction ....
  • I've had the truck in the shop and the indication of the code that set and the way the truck drives is that the TPS needs to be replaced. My mechanic said to just watch it for awhile and see what happens. Well, nothing happened for about 2 months and I'm having problems again. What is the procedure to DIY the replacement of the TPS? Any special tools required? Need help.
  • chevlvrchevlvr Posts: 18
    nothing real special needed, they have 4 torque screws holding them in( at least
    on my 2000 they do). And most of the time they are set by the manufacture
    ( voltage) but if not you need a volt ohm meter and you'll need to know voltage
    range for your truck( you may need to go online to get) most of the tps's have
    a little room for adjustment, but I would just replace it with the new one incase
    the old one starts acting up again, I found it very imbarrassing and a real pain in
    the -ss! good luck hope this helped
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