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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • I have a 1990 GMC S-15 extened cab with 4x4, 4speed auto tranny, fully loaded with the all digital dash. It has 95,000 miles on it. Apparently I have a short in the Ac circuit.
    Everytime I turn on the AC the fuse blows. I have tried to track it down but to no avail. I was wondering if anyone has any idea where or what the problem is before I go thru and replace the whole circuit. This truck is one of the better trucks i've owned. It does not leak or burn any oil at all. I can step down on the gas and light up the tires with no problem. The engine is completely stock with the exception of an oil cooler. Also I was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a complete wiring diagram just for my truck.
    I have a Haynes and a Chilton manuals but there not really as complete as i hoped the would be.
  • Hi Slicksleeve,
    If you look at my post #1009 right before yours, my 87 S-15 had engine surging and idling problems which would go away after I drove for a while also. No engine codes were stored. I just changed my EGR valve and all my problems went away. My old valve, I could blow thru it when closed, even though the diaphram was operating properly. Since it is vacuum operated only(no wires attached), no engine codes were stored.
    Something to think about, hope this helps,
    Vernon
  • daves10daves10 Posts: 3
    Newbie here so forgive me if this is a common problem.
    I have a 2000 4x4 s10 w 4.3 completely stock w/ 86000 miles. It's in very nice condition and I have driven it almost a year with absolutely no problems. Today I got in it cold for first startup of the day and it fired rite up but when I turned the AC on it died. It turns over now but wont start. It may be a coincedence on the AC thing but thats when it died. I dont hear the fuel pump when I turn the key forward so I'm assuming it's the fuel pump.
    I have no blown fuses and have power at the fuel pump relay. My question is...is there a trick to check for power at the fuel pump short of dropping the fuel tank or removing the bed?? Like a harness thats accessible or wire or something. I dont want to drop the tank just to find that I have no power. I'll do it if I have to replace the pump but surely there a way to check it before doing all that. :sick:

    Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    Dave
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Hi,

    Years ago the fuse on th AC mcomp. (for the clutch) would blow when the Freon was low ... ??/
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Unplug the A/C clutch on the compressor, then see if it blows. :)
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Well, yeah. Although I did not specifically state to disconect it ... I assumed he/she would.. After all, they made sure there was enough light available to see if the fuse was blown ... ;')
  • I have a 2001 s-10, 4wd, 58,000 miles. I have changed plugs, wires distributor, oxygen sensors, gas filter and gas, but no luck. Can anyone help???
  • daves10daves10 Posts: 3
    UPDATE FOR MESSAGE#1025: Well I got it fixed. I bit the bullet and removed the 8 bolts to the bed and lifted it off to get at the fuel pump instead of dropping the tank. I found that I had 12v at the grey wire with key forward but that the ground was no good when I grounded to the black wire. So, I spliced into the black wire with one of those piggy back splice connectors then grounded it with a new wire and viola it works great now. It was a sucky way to spend my day off but at least I got it. :shades:
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Good Job and Congrats! - it's always a nice feeling to beat me Mr. Murphy ...

    A few Questions ??? - you stated 8 Bolts for to remove the Bed - how long did it take ??? Would you do it this way if you had to do it again ?? (Sounds like a neat alternative to pulling the tank!!)

    I assume the bad ground was corrosion / bad wire and not a pinched /damaged wire ??

    Last one - Any clue how this ties to the using the AC - or was thaqt just a fluke ???

    Always willing to learn ...
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    At this point -

    I'd check the fuel pump pressure AND flow - and if that checked out - I'd pay the "Diag Fee" and bring it to the dealer ....
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would check for a plugged cat converter, easy to do with a vacuum gauge. Another way is just put your hand near the exhaust. :)
  • Well I found my problem. Seems the fuel pump was bad. I bit the bullet and had a mechanic replace the pump.
  • daves10daves10 Posts: 3
    Thanks canufixit,
    Yes, I would do it this way again. It was easier than attempting to unhook the wires and lines that you cant see and draining the tank and using a tank jack and unbolting all the tank cover bolts and tank straps ect.. The 8 bolts are easy to access and just bolt straight into permanent threaded ports in the bed (there are no nuts to deal with).It only took me about 15 mins. to remove the bolts. Of course I did have to unplug the wire harness at rear of frame for taillights and remove the 2 little torx screws that hold the fuel tank filler at gas cap to the bed. But thats it. I would say for me it was easier. The bed is not that heavy, I'm guessing 200lbs max maybe lighter. I did it by myself by carefully lifting one side at a time and moving it back where it rested evenly on the rear bumper and tires leaving just enough room to access the tank and fuel pump. I never totally removed the bed completely from the truck because I was by myself. Had I had a friend that wasnt working that day it would have been easily lifted all the way off with 2 people.

    I'm not sure about the ground. It wasnt pinched or cut that I could see. I didn't attempt to follow it to its origin. The pump has a 4 wire plug harness to power and ground the pump and fuel level sender and a 3 wire harness that is just to send signal to guages I assume. On the 4 wire harness the grey wire is 12v from fuel pump relay switched by ignition key. The black wire is ground. The purple wire is voltage for fuel level sender and the black with white stripe is the senders ground. All I know is that I could get 12 volts at the grey wire with key forward during prime cycle if I grounded the test light at frame but couldn't if I grounded it to black wire at harness. Rather than crawling on my back in the 100* Texas heat attempting to trace the ground wire to it's origin I decided to just run a new ground wire. It worked.

    I dont think the AC had anything to do with it other than maybe the sudden demand of current possibly contributing to the death of the fuel pump ground. The AC and everything works great so I think it was a fluke.

    Yeah, I hear you, us DIY's gotta keep learning dont we? :)
  • Dear Major,
    O.K. problem solved.......when the calipers are manufactured a hole is drilled for the sensor.....since they are manufactured at different locals and slightly inconsistent in the manufacturing process...they are "measured" then a shim (stainless) is dispenced and installed using a "drive rivet" to give the sensor (injected molded housing)the proper clearance between the splined rotor which provides the pulsed signal through the sensor to the ABS sys......over time rust builds up between caliper body and shim....."pushing" the sensor away from the caliper housing and in turn the sensor is too far away from spline to give a good signal....the clearance between the internal rotating spline and the sensor should be about ..005"- .010 " very close...( a quick check is to use ohm meter...check resistence between sensor leads,you should have continuity, then spin hub. there should be noticible change in ohms..now the ABS system will get a clean signal thus no more Motor City shakedown
  • The engine on my S10 blew a head gasket because the radiator was blocked. The repair shop quoted me $1200 for labor and $900 to machine a new head gasket. I was looking for head gaskets on the internet and found some for less than $100. What should a repair like this cost? Is this correct or is there something I don't understand. Anyone ever had this happen to them?

    Thanks in advance for all any input.

    --
    CY
  • i have a 2000 sonoma 2.2 flex fuel 2wd was getting secondary air injection code,,i have replaced the air pump and metal pipe that feeds air to exhaust manifold,,had the code deleted from computer but still getting the same code,,should i replace the o2 sensor at the cat. converter? thanx really need some advise.
  • i solved my own problem,,,LISTEN UP<< there is a fuse for the A.I.R (secondary air pump), its between the battery and fender, you have to remove battery, and you'll see a fuse block you will need to remove the black plastic cover that goes over the fuse, it was a large 30 amp fuse,, must have blown when the pump burned out
  • I have a 2000 S-10 LS V6 4.3L 4WD. Since I purchased it new in late 2000, I have had a variety of problems (U-joints, transfer control modules, air selenoid valve, shocks), but the one I have now is scaring me: ball joints.

    I had the lowers replaced at 41K miles, and they are gone again at 48K. In addition, the shocks, upper ball joints, and one idler arm need replacement.

    Am I to live in fear forever with the radio off and the window down so I can hear if my wheels are about to fall off? This truck has only been maintained (every 3000 miles) at the dealer.
  • I haven't been to this site in a while but I noticed your question. If you haven't figured it out yet, I belive its 1 3/8".
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Sounds like they need to "machine" the head - because to warped slightly do to overheating .... Gasket is cheap - a few bucks ...
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