Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

1505153555699

Comments

  • What was that about the 7 yr Warranty ?? - First I heard if this ??? What's the details on years of MFG, etc . ???

    Thanks,
    Canufixit
  • Thanks, I did put in the GM syncro fluid, its fine now. Thanks!
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    This letter is intended to make you aware that some 1998 and 1999 model year GMC Sonoma truck, equipped with a 2.2L 4-cylinder engine, may experience illumination of the "Service Engine Soon" (SES) light, engine misfire, rough idle and hesitation. These conditions may be due to spark plug wire failure. The cause of this condition may be improperly seated and loose spark plug wire terminals.
    Action:
    To address the above mentioned condition, General Motors is providing owners with special warranty coverage. If this condition occurs on your 1998 or 1999 model GMC Sonoma truck within 7 years of the date your vehicle was originally placed in service or 70,000 miles (112,000 km), whichever occurs first, the condition will be repaired for you at no charge. :)
  • Did you figure out what was squeeking?
  • We have a 2002 4.3L V6 ZR2 with 85000 miles. Typically we got 15.5-16.2 mpg on the truck, but lately it has been under 15. (Ouch!) This weekend we changed the fuel filter and got 16.8 on the next full tank! I'm not sure if this was all due to the filter change, maybe it was good gas or a big tailwind. We will see after I get a few more tanks down. But for the price and time it takes to change the filter, I think it's worth a shot. Not to mention the stuff coming out the old one was pretty nasty.
  • My radiator fluid has turned into sludge. I think it is because one weak day when the guys at Jiffy Lube said you are low and asked to top it off I said sure... I think that was a big mistake. Anyways, I think they added the regular blue coolant to my orange dexcool. And although the engine is working fine, underneath the radiator cap there lurks a bunch of lovely sludgy muddy looking stuff.

    I originally was thinking of going to the dealer and having them flush and replace it. Although, I've been looking around on the internet and reading horror stories about Dexcool. Can you switch back to the classic blue green antifreeze after Dexcool if the system is flushed thoroughly? Or should I just stick with the dexcool?
  • Hi ,
    TPM could be TPS, which is throttle position sensor. I had mine replaced
    2 weeks ago because at a stop, when trying to throttle up, it would lurch and
    studder like it was out of gas, when I shut down the motor and started it again,
    it would run fine, I have seen alot of simular problems on the site, and this is a
    common problem for the 2.2L. so try replacing the sensor, they run about $45
    atleast, mine did. good luck, hopes this helps T
  • I have a 94 v6 122,000 miles automatic, the problem is the truck runs great except it can't seem to shift easily into second gear, the truck drags and there's a loud almost roaring sound as the truck fights against itself to gain speed, however, once the tac hits 3.5 then it quickly shifts into second. All other gears are operating fine. The oil change done just two weeks ago is now dirty, the new sparks are filthy. I just had the fuel injectors cleaned. My truck won't start unless my foot lightly touches the gas pedal...which I never had to do previously. The local technicians can't find the source of the problem.
  • ch1ch1 Posts: 1
    Any hints/tips on replacing the alternator on a 2001 S-10 2.2L 4cyl? It looks pretty hard to get access to - not on the top of the engine like most. Some parts will have to be removed to gain access, but I'm not sure which ones are best. Have replaced alternators before, but I'm pretty much of a mechanic wannabe...
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would remove the passenger side wheel and splash shield, a little work but good access. :)
  • steve.
    i'm going to guess computer, because i'm having the exact same problem. i just put in a brand new complete crate motor from gm and still have the problem.#2 cylinder is fuel fouling. my new motor came with injectors, sensors, throttle body, coils, plugs, wires. only thing left is computer.
    good luck.
    maybe someone will post that help us both.
    dave
  • My god! that's exactly how it happens, i think that will be!!!. I didn't think that was the problem because the mechanic said it wasn't but now that you describe the problem, i'm sure that you are right. Thanks
  • I have a 99 s-10 with a 2.2 in it. For the mileage it could not run any better, however when I try to start it when it is still hot, usually after it sits for about an 1/2 hour to a hour it doesn't start well at all. Usually takes about 10 to 20 cranks to get it to finally run. Once it starts it runs just fine, doesn't miss or anything. When I start it in the morning or in the dead of winter when it's cold outside it starts on the first turn. I've changed just about everything including plugs, wires, ign. module, coil packs, alternator, starter, TPS and probably a few other things I can't think of right now. Also, shouldn't my hwy mileage be about 30 or so? I'm only getting about 22mpg on the interstate. Should this be some kind of hint??? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and check for the presence of gas. If so, the regulator diaphragm is ruptured and requires regulator replacement.
  • Just wondering - Is your engine running a little too hot ??? Could be that it's running on the hot side - then you shut it down - and all the latent heat in the system continues to elevate the engine temp a little more (after a 1/2 hour or so ...) - but after that time - the engine cools down and it starts OK... Check the temp, Gauge, Thermostat, etc ... Just a guess - but easy to check ....

    Good Luck!!
  • I actually went to a lower degree thermostat. That made no difference. My truck doesn't run hot at all, well except when I have the air conditioning on. Thanks for the regulator tip, I will for sure check that out.
  • Hello there, just looking for a bit of help here. I ran into this problem and cant seem to solve it. I have a 97 chevy s-10 V6 4.3liter, 4x4, auto. Now I have started to have some problems with the electrical gauges, 1st, when I turn the lights on the air bag signal comes on, turn the lights off, light goes off??? 2...check engine comes on after I have been on the highway and reach 100km/h for more than 10 mins... but eventually turns off after I have driven in the city for a day or 2 at relatively slow speeds?????? I have brought it into a few different garages and had them run the computer checks, but they cant seem to find a problem.... The last problem has to do with the voltage meter,, it is constantly jumping up and down from 10 to 14 on the volt meter.. I have changed the alternator, that was not the problem, I have repalced the positive battery cable and the power wire leading to the back of the alternator??? So this has become a process of elimination that is becoming expensive.... any one might know what the problems may be????? Oh last thing My truck has been through 2 alternators in the past 8 months, now I know thats not right,,, so whatever is causing my alternators to fry out I assume is what is causing my voltage meter to jump up and down??? any help or input would be appreciated Cause I am stuck!!!
  • Hi,

    Sounds like you could have a short, probably in one of the power cables
    running to the dash. You can try pulling the possitive cable off the battery and
    see if the truck dies. Also, does the alternator your putting in have voltage
    regulator built in, or is your regulator mounted somewhere else, if seperate
    that could also be the problem. good luck!
  • hey tjdude,

    I replied to your tps problem, just wanted to let you know about the other
    code they pulled on your truck, that code also has something to do with the
    tps, mine also pulled another code from the rearend, and mechanic said it was
    something to do withover acceleration on the rearend, like I had did a burn-out
    or something. So, what it is, is the tps being bad is telling the computer that
    the truck is over reving, so inturn the computer retards it so you dont blow it up.

    take care
  • Having transmission problem, when code has been reset shifts fine, when it gets hot trans starts slipping again code pops back. Dealer saying its a solenoid problem, trans shop saying its an electrical problem, or maybe a thermostat issue. Does anyone have any ideas??? Need help :cry:
This discussion has been closed.