Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

1565759616266

Comments

  • jjs342jjs342 Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 2.5 4 cyl s10 with the 5 speed and it will not go into four wheel drive I can pull the stick for the transfer case and it will not go into four wheel drive. Any idea how to fix it and what could be wrong. Any help will be great. Thanks
  • My S10 seem to be running alot hotter than it did before. It used to run at like 1/4 of the meter which I think is pretty cool. I changed the oil to 20w50 since its got 104K now. Right after I did the tune up it ran great and the oil pressure raise a little bit. But after that it started to run alot hotter like a 1/4 more on the Meter.(sorry for not being specific) But it still ran good, Then I got a check engine light which turned out to be a Misfire on one of the cylinders (code P302) so i changed the spark plugs and the ignition coil and like its supposed to after 4 ignition and power down cycles the light went away if no misfire is detected. The problem now is that it still runs hot and does not give me good power it's like I have the hand brake on! All this and I think I might just be asking about the oil (Im using Synthetic 20w-50) 2.2L 4banger using Bosh Platinum, 8mm cables)
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    GM says nothing above 30 wt oil, 50 wt is looking for trouble. I ran a 2.2 on 5W-30 for 120K no problem. The original plugs are the best for the 2.2. If all this happened when you made changes, back track. My 99 temp runs between 1/4 and half, which is about 195 deg F, straight up is 210 deg F.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    The only thing I would use 20w50 in would be a dying engine with a rod or main that's on it's out the side. Unless, your talking a high performance racing machine which would be a different realm all together.

    As for the loss of power and increase of engine temp, I had the same thing happen on a car with a bad catalytic converter. When I replaced the converter everything went back to normal.

    Good luck
  • I guess your right about the oil It started heating up right after I started using it. Now its just gotten a little hotter, The loss of power might also be a result of the oil. I hate to just throw away that expensive oil but I guess I'm gonna have to. My truck has also been sounding a little louder so the catalytic converter also might be having some problems. I love this truck. I got it with 40,000 miles 2 years ago. Now it has 104k and it's the first time gotten any problems. Well thanks guys, will change the oil and see if any changes.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I don't think the heavy oil is the reason for the loss of power and excessive heat. But I do think on start up the heavy oil is hard on things like valve train and oil pump. Especially if it was in cold weather. I know what your saying though about not wanting to abort the synthetic oil considering the expense and all. It being summer time, if it were me, I would go ahead and run with it. Then the next time switch back to a lighter weight.

    A lot of times just having loss of power causes the engine work extra hard trying to keep up with demand. That in turn causes the engine to run hotter.

    A bad catalytic doesn't necessarily equate to louder exhaust. An exhaust leak such as a cracked exhaust manifold, faulty exhaust gaskets, or holes in exhaust system is usually where the noise comes in. A bad cat converter causes an obstruction and restricts the flow of exhaust. This in turn causes poor performance and poor performance causes excessive heat. It's kind of like you jammed a shop towel in the tail pipe. If you have use of a lazar thermometer, shoot the temp of the exhaust pipe where it comes off the manifold and compare that to temp of the cat converter. If there isn't a measurable difference then I would say the cat converter is suspect.

    When you had the plugs out did you run a compression check? Did you isolate the cause of it missing? Sometimes running a compression check can tell the tell.

    Good luck
  • dstangdstang Posts: 4
    I have a general question, I was looking to replace my Radiator which has An upper and lower radiator hose, two connections for transmission, and one hose about 1 inch in diamater which I do not know it's function. Any help? should I be concerned?

    Thank you,
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Generally speaking, I haven't came across anything like that yet. However, if you can't find a replacement that matches, you might consider taking it to a radiator shop and having them rodding it out and fix the bad spots. Sometimes they have to change out the core. They'll give you a like new guarantee when done. My guess would be the 1 in. hose is for a heater core, if your vehicle has one. Is it off a truck, car, road tractor, gas, diesel?
    Good luck.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Where is the 1" hose connector on the Radiator ?? Top, Front, Rear, Etc ??
  • dstangdstang Posts: 4
    On the same side as all the other hoses come off. It is located between the lower radiator hose and the upper transmission line.

    Thank you,
  • dstangdstang Posts: 4
    Gas Sonoma truck 1991. The resevoir on the side seems to be split and three or four of the fins are cracked. I guess the thing that was throwing me off is that the other hoses all have a match. Two for Transmission, two for Engine block and then this orphan.

    Thank you,
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Looks like Autozone and Advance Auto Parts both carry it for anywhere between $135. - $160. Not bad for a truck radiator. The thing I like about Advance Auto web site is it actually shows a picture or diagram of the part your looking up. Sounds like a nice Saturday project.
    Good luck.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Hi Al,

    My suggestions ...

    - Cycling through the air vent settings will change the fan speed noise as you are changing the air direction/path/resistance (Just like AC and MAX AC) - I think this is normal ...

    - No Heat from Radiator - then the over flow tank drops - then you get "Some" heat -> I think you had an Air bubble in the radiator core - no water, no heat. Keep an eye on the over flow tank and let it cycle throught a full "Cold" to Hot and back cycles.

    - Hotter Engine gauge - well, There could be an issue here. But besides a hotter running engine - it could be that the high engine temp affected the sending unit - or - your DID change the thermostat - perhaps it runinng hotter because of that (Did you replace with the same temp thermometer ??)

    In summary - I'd run it real easy, watch the oil, Coolant - and check for an oil slick in the radiator... You may have lucked out ... alternatively you can do a compression test ...

    Good Luck Buddy !!
  • regnargregnarg Posts: 4
    I have recently been having problems with my 93 Sonoma. The "service engine soon" light has been coming on and so far I have replaced a cracked exhaust manifold, O2 sensor, and now the MAP sensor. The truck runs better now, but the light still comes on, just not as often. When starting it cold it revs up and down on its own, until it warms a bit. On the open highway it often feels like it is dragging an anchor, until the "service engine soon" light comes on, then it surges ahead. Changing the MAP sensor has helped this "anchor Syndrome" however I would like to make the service engine light go out perminently. I really feel that it is just a worn-out sensor, but I don't have the funds to replace my truck piece by piece. My next step will probabley be to replace the Throttle Position Sensor. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    You done a lot of good work here - Too bad it did not fix evertyhing.... You did not say if you have a code reader. If not - find a parts store (i.e. auto Zone?) that will read the code for you for free - perhaps that will get to the final solution quickest/cheapest ....

    Good Luck
  • dstangdstang Posts: 4
    I have a 4.3L V6 4wd truck. There is a black box 5" x 7" x 1" with two connector ports on the back side of the box, one 4 leads the other has 6 leads. The box is in the engine compartment right infront of the driver next to the break resevoir.
    I purchased the truck about a month ago and have not had any issues with it; only short trips. As I was tracking down an electrical connection, I found that the above box did not have the connectors connected. They were just hanging down in back of the box.
    Any clue as to what this could be. I did not follow the disconnected wires as of yet, that will be my task at hand tomorrow. As I mentioned the truck seems to run fine.

    Thank you,
  • regnargregnarg Posts: 4
    I originally got my truck scanned and codes for "lean exhaust" and "O2 sensor curciut open" came up, however that was before I replaced the exhaust manifold and O2 sensor. It cost me $120 for GMC to tell me that, so I havn't been really keen on going back. Does anyone have a list of sensors that a 1993 sonoma would have? The truck runs fine when the sevice engine soon light comes on, so I am rather sure it is just a sensor.

    Thanks
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    If you feel you have fixed the problem and you just want to clear the service engine light' you might try this procedure. Disconnect the battery, turn lights on or put your foot on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then reconnect the battery. It should clear the ECM if the discrepancy has been satisfied. Of course you'll have to reset your radio and clock. However, if the initial problem isn't resolved then the light will persist. Actually, if the problem has been resolved the light is supposed to clear itself. To obtain the code yourself isn't complicated. As Mr. Canufixit stated, the chain parts stores are glad to give a crash course of instruction. As we all know, it gets real expensive to start replacing sensors wholesale in hopes of getting lucky. I bought a test plug that fits my 92 S-10 for about $25. But actually I can do the same thing with a small jumper wire that doesn't cost anything. All this and the code definitions are listed in a Haynes manual. I'm not really keen on Haynes but they are plentiful & easy to obtain.

    Good luck and keep us posted on what you find out.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I have the same thing on a 92 S-10 2WD. As I understand it, the box you described has something to do with the anti-lock brakes. Only on this make the anti-lock is for the rear wheels. Last year I had to replace the ABS Modulator Valve. Its function is to evenly distribute the pressure between front and back brakes.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Congrats thebigal!! I just love it when a plan pulls together !!!
  • regnargregnarg Posts: 4
    Still having a few problems with my truck, service engine light coming on, hesitation, etc.. Will be changing the EGR valve tomorrow, I have been told that they can gum up and stick open or shut. Also makes sense as far as the codes for O2 sensor, and lean exhaust that I have been getting. This will be strike 4, 1-O2 sensor, 2-cracked exhaust manifold, 3-MAP sensor, 4-EGR Valve.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I've read on other post where the EGR has given a lot of trouble by sticking on the S-10's & S-15's. I would think a bad MAP or EGR would have a tendency to cause them to run rich instead of lean. Your order of sequence for troubleshooting sounds solid. I too would inspect the EGR next to make sure it’s opening and closing like it should. On random my S-10, 4.3 acts up on start up. It doesn't do it all the time. I'm wondering if it doesn't have something to do with the EGR. I had a MAP sensor go out on a four banger ford one time. The code it was giving was lying to me. While trouble shooting I filled my garage up with soot and carbon monoxide. That led to an unpleasant experience for me. Since then I've regarded trouble codes as a ballpark figure and not the gospel.
    Good luck and happy hunting. :)
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I am surprised you are having this many problems with the 2.5L engine. I had that engine in an 89 Celebrity and 91 Olds Ciera Wagon, both were quite durable. I had the O2 sensor go on the Celebrity and the same manifold problem happen to the Ciera. I sold the Ciera to my brother-in-law 6 years ago. He was still driving it up until last year until some one rear ended him. The car was a write off. Getting back to your problem, have you had your catalytic converter checked out? A bad converter could cause your engine light to come on. Good luck.
  • regnargregnarg Posts: 4
    I got my EGR (EXHAUST/GAS RECIRCULATION) valve off of my truck finally. If anyone needs to do this themselves you will need a 13mm crowfoot socket, or the carborator will have to come off. The old one sounds like a salt shaker, just full of black exhaust build-up. I am rather sure now that I have finally found the real problem.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Congratulations, and thanks for the tip in the 13mm crows foot. Keep us posted on the out-come. :)
  • boxlotboxlot Posts: 2
    I have a 95 sonoma with vortec engine and 5 speed trans.Will a tranny out of an S-10 work or does it have to be from a Z or Sonoma.Also what years will fit.
    Thanks,
    Boxlot
  • joelc10joelc10 Posts: 2
    I am the original owner of a 2002 Sonoma, 52K miles. Without warning my truck won't start. I turn the key and get power but no crank, no nothing. Dealer checked and said the ignition switch had an intermitant open. Switch was replaced but the problem persists. The truck does start after sitting a while, sometimes minutes, sometimes hours. Dealer has no clue and calls it a ghost. Can anyone help?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    Auto or manual trans, do you mean it won’t engage the starter. I would check neutral safety switch. If auto move from park to neutral and then try to start. Could be bad connection. Did dealer replace the key switch or the electrical ignition switch?
    There was an issue with GM starters at one time where the solenoid was bad. When the starter won’t turn over have someone put a 12 V test light on the small terminal on the starter relay, try to start if there is power at the small relay the starter is the issue.
  • joelc10joelc10 Posts: 2
    Automatic Transmission. The starter won't engage. First click of the key, power comes on, I turn to start, the power dims like normal when starting and than nothing, no click, no grind no nothing. Will try neatral when it happens again, and it will happen again. It happens with no warning.
  • gerdgerd Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 S-10 Ext Cab with V6. My Check Engine light comes on under heavy load at freeway speeds, and the engine goes into limp mode it seems. About 30 seconds after I lay off the accelerator, the truck goes back to normal running and the light goes off. I took it to Auto Zone twice and they say there are no trouble codes logged. I have about 47k miles on it and no other problems. All fluids are full and have a clean air filter.
This discussion has been closed.