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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,496
    Do not post your email address in your messages! If you wish to make your email address known, make your profile email address "public", where it will be viewble to registered members.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • yousefyousef Posts: 3
    This is a thank you note to thebigal for your good advice regarding the hood latch cable and air bag red light. I had a dealer check the red light and was told that it is the sensor and it would cost almost $500 to fix it. I was charged $107 just to check it, which took about 1 minute via a computer hookup. I thought to let the air bag ride then remembered when a friend bought a motorcycle and was told to buy a helmet. He asked the price and was told $50 and $100. He asked what the difference was between them and was asked: "Do you have a $50 head or a $100 head?" He bought the one for $100. Thanks again and salaam to you. Yousef.
  • i learne this, the S 10 drive shaft is balance together,including the U-joints. so i think or your U-joints going bad or you just replased and didnt balanced, the drive shaft have to ve rebalace,hapen to me.
  • I just drop my truck 2" front & reard (front with 2" belltech spindles) and a put second hand steering box with links also have in the front bfgoodrich traction t/a 225/60R15 and the back goodyear eagle GPS P215/65R15,THE PROBLEM NOW I HAVE IS IN THE HWY MAKE FUNNY PULLING TO THE SIDES, MORE WHEN THE ROAD HAVE INDENTATION FOR THE TRAFFIC,DONT NOW IF THE WIDE TIRES IN THE FRONT IS CREATING THIS FELT LIKE A PLAY IN THE STEERING WHEEL. THANKS RENZO.
  • I forgot this,i stared same way ,change center bearing but look like one think take to and other, so i ending replasing U-joints to, and the some boody told me have to re balance, so broret to a plase to g re balence (turner),all this was over 3 month so i think on drive shaft do all together,Renzo.
  • My daughter bought a 94 S10 (6 cyl. automatic)spending more money than she had and still owes on it. The truck ran good for two days. She came out of a store one day and it would not start. Replaced the rotor that was actually melted, the coil pack, ignition module. No start. Towed it home, noticed the fuel pump wasn't working, replaced fuel pump, also new plugs. (By the way, the wrong plugs were in the truck.)After my husband replaced the fuel pump it would start everytime but with a really bad miss. Yesterday they took it to a mechanic, he replaced the idle position sensor, truck ran great. His computer came up with low voltage on the map sensor and the EGR valve but said it was good to drive the way it was. The miss was gone, the truck ran fine. Got in the truck last night to start it and the same thing happened all over again. My husband is absolutely at the end of his rope. What does the fuel pump and the rest of this have to do with the other? We are afraid that when we open the hood we will need another rotor and ignition module and all of the above that we have already replaced. We will soon be going to get the truck and need help, please. :cry:
  • poulin71poulin71 Posts: 1
    One of my tailgate cable has broken and the other is not far off. I bought new cables but now I am puzzled as how to replace them. They appear to be rivoted to the tailgate. Is there a way to take them off and put on the new cables? If not then why would I be sold the new cables with no way to re-attach them. Thanks
  • doc21doc21 Posts: 2
    I HERE A RATTLE WHEN I TURN ON MY AIR COND. DOC
  • Very simple, pull the tail gate off for conform,set ed like a table,then pull the handle and see anther, you"ll see the mechanism with tow 5mm wires getting in a white plastic lock,turned the plastic unlocking it (with a long players)then pull the 5mm wire,do one at the time,ones is relise take the side bolts off (the part how has the cable attach to) pull an lock the way to take the 5mm wire off the lock, turn 90 degrees and 90 degrees again look the way it came off,cause the new one it has to go in the same wade. good luck, Renzo. :)
  • coderedcodered Posts: 43
    thanks found how to Unlock a locked raido on net.. 5 mins.and was done.thanks
  • doc21doc21 Posts: 2
    When I start my truck and turn on the air conditioner there is a very loud rattling sound. Sometimes you can hear it without the air conditioner being on. I have replaced the tension spring, new belt, and rebuilt the air conditioner. Any ideas on what the problem might be or what is causing the noise?
  • kendrakekendrake Posts: 1
    2003 S-10 2wd pickup, 93000 mi vibration in drive train
    is pinion bearings going bad. Do a bearing/seal change
    immediately.
  • coderedcodered Posts: 43
    on a 98 sonoma....does anyone know how to adjust head lamps?? i see up/down but not side to side...help
  • s10bluess10blues Posts: 1
    Here it is.
    I took this truck to the auto store,got a code # po410.
    Secondary air injection sys. malfunction.
    This code is not listed in the haynes manual,or maybe I just can't find it.
    Was told there is a air injection check Valve??
    Not sure what to replace, as the book is'nt helping!!
    Hopeing to correct this problem myself,before letting the
    dealership at it, Again!!!
    Thanks,James
  • kar78kar78 Posts: 2
    My 88 2WD S-10 runs very rich, and is getting about 10mpg. It seems to run and idle smooth though. Oil pressure and temp gauges seem eratic, but that maybe another issue. Replaced injectors, MAP. No change. Could O2 sensor cause this? or could the ECM go partially bad? Thanks
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    O2 sensor can certainly cause that but if it is that bad you should be getting some codes.
  • dram615dram615 Posts: 4
    I had a 98 Mustang with that exact same code once. It turns out it was the stupid California required smog pump (air pump). I had gotten into a small fender bender and since the pump was located right behind the front tire, the accident boroke the control module for the pump. I replaced the pump and with the module and the error code went away. It took over 2 months of troubleshooting to figure that out. The smog pumps are only on vehicles that are designated for states with strict smog laws like California. I don't know for sure if the S10s have them but you may want to investigate... good luck
  • scottf3scottf3 Posts: 1
    In my 1991 S-10 I keep blowing the igintion modules. I t will start every so often after it sits for a long period of time it will start after it cools. Once it does this there is no injector pulse and no fire to the plugs
  • Hello hopefully you can answer my question and future ones I have, so lets get to it. My question is about my 1984 gmc s-15 gypsy and when I go to start it, it does not turnover. I just recently (actually 2 years ago) put a starter in it and I'm not sure if I have hooked up the starter right. The light that is a circle with a line in it (I believe it was) will light up so I think its referring to the starter. And i have 4 wires on the starter and I don't know if there was another or not or if the three on the big bolt (as I call it) were put in proper order if there even is one. I've had it for 4 years and I haven't driven it since I put in the new starter but that's because I don't think it was hooked up right. Well if you made it through I thank you for taking the time to read this and I'd appreciate a reply to this thank you. ;)
  • billdarchbilldarch Posts: 11
    Im having some vibration in driveline on 2.5 l with 176k on it.. Clutch grabs fine- just replaced plugs, wires, cap rotor, fuel filter, air filter- occurs at mid-upper rpm with engine under load- most noticeable in 3rd gear and lower end of 4th gear-- feels similar to being in too high of a gear for current speed -- any similar problems or clues as to how to diagnose this?
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