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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • rgoldergolde Member Posts: 5
    Thanks and by the way I am very impressed my new XLT 4x4 with Super Cab.
  • joeyags21joeyags21 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 2001 4.3 s10 recently the "service engine soon" light came on, soon after that the "check gauges" light came on but that only stays on while idle, at the same time as the check gauges light came on i noticed that i was reading no oil pressure, again this was only a problem at idle, when i hit aprox. 2000rpm the light went off and the oild gauge came out of the red. i am also getting a clanging and knocking noise from the engine that are both much more apparent at idle. can anyone relate or help? if you have any helpfull hints or solutions please reply to this or send me an email [email protected] thank you~!
  • dgillis001dgillis001 Member Posts: 4
    Bought second-hand yrs ago an 89 s-10 blazer w/ 4.3 V-6 eng. Blazer has 184,000 mi on it although was told eng. was replaced around 80k or so as had 107k when purchursed. It still runs strong today, doesn't leak any fluids nor use any oil, not even a half qt. of it skipping oil changes every so often! The only gripe is that the 89 4.3 eng. idles rough but when given the gas, it grabs and goes! Anyway, given the mileage on it, I recently bought an 01 Sonoma ext. cab sportside p/u w/ the 4.3 and can only hope I get the same service from it. The truck has plenty power, some idiot in a full-sized Dodge tried to get ugly w/ me today, he hit his refusing me entry into a rh lane so I hit mine and I beat him and had air-cond on and wasn't even flooring it! The Vortec came alive! I always used Castroil Syntec in 89 S-10 Blazer and am wondering if I should use the same in 2001 GMC Sonoma-40,000 mi. on it. The oil is alot more expensive but 89 Blazer has held-up well. Just bought Sonoma in Feb. 04 and is time for my first oil change since I acquired, already tallied up 3k mi. Any suggestions or responses would be welcome. [email protected]
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    sounds like you definitely have a problem in your oiling system. I hope that you've stopped driving the truck and checked:
       A) the oil level;
       B) the oil filter (for blockage) better
          yet, just change it;
       C) if the above are ok, your oil pump
          is most likely on it's way south.
  • bigaldsbigalds Member Posts: 47
    I use Mobile One Synthetic Motor Oil($4.50 Qt) and Purolator Pure One Synthetic Oil Filter($6), for several years now in several vehicles, and that stuff is great. I have seen NO bad effects from it. No Leaks. Sure, it costs twice as much, but it lasts twice as long, so it really doesn't cost you any more, and you do oil and filter changes at 6,000 miles to 7,500 miles, instead of every 3,000. It keeps the engine super clean inside, gives better lubrication on start ups, especially in cold weather. I have used it in 91, 93 & 97 Ford Explorers & 99 Chev Blazer, all with high mileage, no engine problems. I highly recommend it.
    Big AL
  • oldcorvettefanoldcorvettefan Member Posts: 17
    I own an '03 S-10 LS, 4.3L, 4WD, Extended cab.

    I have been troubled by a persistent rattle/squeak/air leak between the driver door and the third door since the vehicle was delivered in August 03. I have less than 4k miles on the truck, and have had it in the service department about six times already.

    Do any of you have any experience with using the Illinois Lemon Law to arbitrate your vehicle? All the law says is that a lemon is a vehicle that has a significant defect (affecting value, safety, or usability) and has been repaired at least four times.

    Thanks,
    Steven
  • dksdks Member Posts: 1
    i own a 1998 s-10.Latley i have been having problems with it starting.When i first try to start it,it just winds over.Then if i take the key out of the iginition and let it sit for awhile it will start.Any ideas on this.
  • bigaldsbigalds Member Posts: 47
    You need to have 60 lbs of Fuel pressure in the fuel rail for the injectors to fire during starting. 52 pounds in not enough. Also pressure do a leakdown test, pressure should not leak down within 10 minutes.
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Vehicle: 99 S-10 2WD LS, 4.3 auto, ZQ8, limited slip, 3.42 gear

    I know this is board is for problems, but the last post in the "maintenance" board was in 2003 so I thought I'd post here. Anyway, was wondering if any of you have changed the radiator, trans, and differential fluids in your vehicles. I'm approaching the 5 year mark and will definitely be changing the coolant (though I'm WAY lower than the 150K mileage) but was wondering of the transmission and the rear end. Getting conflicting info regarding the limited slip and tranny fluids, in terms of needing an additive for the limited slip and change intervals for both.

    Also, was wondering if anyone cleaned their injection systems either themselves of taking it do the dealer (cost ?). Would prefer doing it myself having done this before but can't find a kit in order to perform the service. Does anyone know of where I might purchase a kit?
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    ...Since I'm a "maintenance freak", I change my vehicle's fluids on a regular basis. My S-10 is 7 years old, so I've already changed the coolant (at 5 years), and I presently have only 45,000 miles on the truck.

    I think that you should check your owner's manual regarding the differential lube. My manual said that the (limited slip) diff lube should be changed the first time at 3000 miles, and then some interval after that, and no posi additive should be put in. My S-10 is a 4 wheel drive, so the rear might be different than a 2 wheeler, but I was rather surprised at the initial change at only 3000 miles. I put synthetic oil in mine, and all is fine.

    I also changed the tranny oil every 24 months, the power steering oil at the same time, and flush the brake fluid annually. Good luck with your truck.
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    I was surpised by the interval too, and the non-additive for the rear end! Pretty much have been following the schedule too, going to the owner's manual and the service manual to compare/contrast the two. Will be doing the maintenance soon. Will probably have to go to have the injection system serviced since I can't find the kit. Will be doing the brakes as well.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    My manual states 15 K if you tow and no recommendation if you don't tow, it's a regular diff.I did mine at 40K and drilled a hole in the bottom of the diff, good spot lots of meat tapped and installed a flush 1/4 inch pipe plug, no more cover removal.
  • wlb531wlb531 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 S10 v6 and at 5200 miles on the way to work one morning the check gages light came.
    as yours did at idle no oil pressure rev the engine and oil pressure would build up a small amount.
    I drove it directly to the chevrolet dealer and they found that the oil pump had failed and replaced it under warranty.
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Was thinking that as well, but am looking for a cover with a plug in it in a low position. Am a little iffy on drilling into the diff though, even with a stop on the bit. In any event, the fluids will be changed.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I drilled with with the cover off, no stop needed, there is a great spot with the cover off you Will see it. The cover drain would leave too much old oil for me. I also put a drain in my transmission pan, 4L60E.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    Check out the SLP engineering website. They make a rear end cover for the Camaro/Firebird axle that has a drain plug grafted on to it. It might fit the S-10 also.
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Thanks for the info. I'll check into the rear cover, know there are differences between the truck and car 10-bolts, but the cover might still be able to work. This is another thing to think about. More than likely I'll be replacing the o2 snesor(s) as well. Always try to do that in the 30k - 40K range to take of that.

    Again thanks for the information and will look into that.

    Thanks.
  • glockmanglockman Member Posts: 1
    I have the following problems with my 2002 GMC Sonoma w/ ZR7 package.
    1) Windows warp out and windows can't be closed. This occurs when it is above 90 degrees or below 20 degrees. I had have it back to the dealer 3 times and they can't seem to duplicate problem.
    2) Engine has no upper end power above 3,000 rpm.
    I had a 1998 GMC Sonoma (same set up as my 2002) and the 1998 had all kinds of power.Dealer says I just have to live with it. It runs worse than a bad 4 cylinder engine.
    3) This 2002 GMC Sonoma is a real gas guzzler. Dealer has installed all updates and replaced air cleaner and the best I can get is 15miles or less on the highway running empty.

    Has anybody experienced any problems like this!
  • crewchief1949crewchief1949 Member Posts: 2
    heres the jist. Had a squealwhen accelerating and stopping(basically constant). Dealer told me brakes, i told them bull. Changed brakes myself and took old pads in to prove it werent the brakes. dealer then replaces the u-joints like i asked them to do under warranty. i thought it was u-joints. they said they couldnt figure out which one, front or back so they changed both and i looked to make sure they changed them. squeal went away for about and hour. now the squeal is back but you can only hear it with the radio off, windows down and having the sound bounce off of a passing vehicle. im wondering if a bearing is bad on the tailshaft of the transfer case? any ideas?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    If you have a flex fuel engine they will burn more fuel, its a compromise between gasoline or alcohol.
  • jflyjfly Member Posts: 1
    I parked my 2001 S10 today and attempted to restart only 1 hr later. Truck would not start. I jumped truck with another vehicle (started fine). Truck will not start on its own. After starting with another vehicle, odometer lights flicker quickly. When moving the truck, random and sometimes all dash warning lights come on and then all instrument panel power goes off (spedo, tach, all gages, lights, etc). Truck seems to run fine after starting with another vehicle but will not start on its own battery. Battery tests strong and instrument gage shows full power. There is a high pitched wine coming from under the dash when running. truck will not start on its own... I dont understand how this is happening. If the battery is full charge, why does it not start by itself. It will only start by jumping battery to another vehicle.. this doesnt make sense to me!! can anyone help?!?!
  • bigaldsbigalds Member Posts: 47
    Assuming the battery is good because you said it "Tests Good", and assuming the Starter is good because you said it starts good when jumped from another battery, it would only leave a problem in the wiring, cables and connections. A loose connection on a cable could easily cause your problem. Check all cables, tighten all connections.
  • evetsdotnetevetsdotnet Member Posts: 1
    Hey Chief just wondering if you found where the squeak is coming from. I have a 2000 ZR2 with the same symptoms. Cant seem to locate the problem. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Was wondering if any changed the coolant on their S-10. I'm about due to change mine, hitting the five-year mark last month, and though I am WAY under the mileage, thought I would change it just the same. My problem is with the radiator peacock and am wondering how to open it. It's plastic, doesn't have any "ears" on it like the older ones and the head seems to be like the one-way-screw heads, where you can twist it in, but can't twist it out. Can't seem to fit a driver or an extension on/in it. Parts stores don't have a clue or listing for it. Is there a technique or special tool to open the peacock or other method. The shop manual doesn't list anything, just saying it can be opened and to open the peacock on the block, which I have yet to find. Have a 2WD 99 LS reg. cab, short bed, 4.3 V6, 4L60E, ZQ8.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I recently had the coolant changed on my 2000 S10. I had 95,000 km (59,000 miles). I suggest you replace the upper and lower rad hoses, thermostat, and rad cap. GM has had problems with the original rad caps keeping the cooling system pressurized. Good luck!
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    the "petcock" on the radiator does indeed turn. Just apply a slight bit of force, but be careful. After you turn it counterclockwise a bit, if I remember corectly, it pops out a bit, allowing the coolant to drain.

    With regard to the block, I've never seen a petcock installed by the factory. There should be a hex headed pipe plug near the bottom of the block, one on each side.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I always spray mine with penetrating oil before I open or close it, saves from breaking it. Not my idea I picked it up on another site.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    I'd be careful with the penetrating oil. Over time, it might attack the plastic, then you'd have a whole 'nother situation to deal with.
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Thanks for the information. Again, will be changing th efluid soon as I changed all of the other fluids (oil, trans, rear end), belt, filters and had the injection system serviced. Didn't want to to put too much pressure on it for fear of breaking it. Know about the penetrating oil attacking plastics, have worked with the material for about 10 years my in automotive/non-automotive apps for work.

    Again, I haven't seen a petcock on the 4.3 either, but have on others (had one on my import), but was mentioned in the service manual.

    Thanks
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I will take my chances on two sprays every 3 yrs against breaking the valve, I used that trick for years and no problem, maybe I use a poorer grade lol.
  • coolrunner99coolrunner99 Member Posts: 2
    Just purchased a 2000 S10 ZR2 package and LS trim. Sharp looking truck with 57300 miles. I like just about everything but, I do have one problem. At low speeds (1 to 15) mph I hear a thud or clunking noise from under the truck. I can't seem to pinpoint the area its coming from front and rear. I only hear it when the road is uneven but, not bumpy. It makes the noise weather I apply the breaks or just let it roll or on the gas. It almost sounds like the rubber bushings are worn on parts of the suspension. On visual inspection it looks good. Any suggestions would be a big help, its driving me nuts.
  • tommctommc Member Posts: 66
    First guess would be a loose shock. Have someone bounce it up and down while you look at each one, each end. These will make noise on slight movements if loose or a bad bushing.
  • slicksickwillyslicksickwilly Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2000 S-10 ZR2 with only 34K on odometer.. I have had some serious problems with this truck.. Just took it in for inspection and of course it failed. Both front wheel bearings were shot! Idler arm also had excess play and was replaced.. Gas mileage is terrible(14 in city and 16 on highway). Have replaced the driver side seat recline handle twice.. Had to replace all 4 tires prematurely because of constantly losing air and not sealing properly on aluminum rims.. Check engine light came on 5 times when new until the dealer finally fixed it right.. 3rd door had some serious rattling.. I really like this truck but sometimes i wonder if others are having similar problems.. Oh well...just found this board and had to vent!!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Although I haven't heard any complaint about wheel bearings, front suspension problems appear to be common on the S10, especially ball joints, idler and pitman arms.

    Dusty
  • bigaldsbigalds Member Posts: 47
    To keep air from leaking between the tire and aluminum rims, let all the air out of the tire, remove valve stem, squirt WD40 into tire through valve stem for 20 seconds using the small tube that comes with the WD40, reinsert valve stem and tighten snug, refill with proper amount of air. Do this to each tire and the spare, and you won't have those slow leaks, unless you get a small punture. Use the Large Size WD40 can. I always do this when I get a set of new tires, and I never have a problem with them.
    E.D.
  • coolrunner99coolrunner99 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip on the shocks but, they're in good shape. I only get the noise when it rolling, in or out of gear. My mechanic can't pin point the location either but, said everything looked good. He thinks it's the exhaust! Any help ANYBODY!!
  • mikeb1mikeb1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey, i'm 18 and dont have much money. I can afford a 89 Chevy S10 in a few weeks. There are some flaws with the truck like theres some rust that is in the wheel wheel. Is it easy to fix?? Since its in the wheel well, it doesnt have to look the best, just good enough. The major problem with it is that when you give the truck alot of gas, it'll dip down to the right. Is there something wrong with the motor mounts or body mounts? or is it just got alot of torque? I dont think it does cuz its only a 4.3L V6. Its $1500 canadian and i'm just wondering if its worth it. Theres no other rust that i am aware of because it was newly painted. (it was painted pretty crappy because there paint isnt very smooth, and the paint got on to the rubber around the windows.) Theres also a crack of the chrome that buldged up on the rear bumper thing and rusted some.
  • bronson1bronson1 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2002 S10 with 80,000 miles on it. It has a 4.3 liter six that seems to run well. I'm a bit disappointed with the gas mileage (after driving a thrifty 4 cylinder S10 for 18 years). I've changed to a K&N air filter and will replace the Quaker State oil with Mobil 1 or another good synthetic next oil change. Any other suggestions to improve the gas mileage?
    Also, the plugs look like they're a bear to get at (don't know if they've been changed yet). Give me some pointers on replacing them. Or, are these plugs a mechanic only project?

                                   Bronson
  • tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    Since this seems to be the most active S10 board going, I thought I would try to find an answer here. If anyone knows of a more appropriate site, please let me know.

    How well will 4.3 auto. S10 stand up to regular towing? I have a small lawn-care business & need to tow +/_ 2000# up to maybe 3500# on a regular basis mostly in the summer - not all year. Most days closer to 2000 than 3500.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I think the only real problem area will be the automatic transmission. In all other respect the S10 should handle 2000+ pounds fine.

    Dusty
  • tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    In what ways will the auto. be the problem? Most have been telling me auto tows better and most web sites for the car makers rate auto for higher max tow eights.

    What happens (if anything) on those days when I have to drag 3000+?
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Some more recent S10's come equipped with an automatic transmission cooler. My S10 is a 2000 model and has one. I haven't done any towing but I do have 65,000 miles without any transmission problems.
  • hillbillyhillbilly Member Posts: 6
    You shouldn't have any problems towing that kinda load with the V-6 and an auto tranny. The drivetrain in the S-10 is identical to the drivetrain in some fullsize chevys pickups. As long as you don't beat the piss out of it, it should be fine.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Longevity will be the issue, especially if you don't perform the correct transmission maintenance.

    Dusty
  • hillbillyhillbilly Member Posts: 6
    Such is the case with any auto tranny, especially those without a tow package or aftermarket tranny cooler.
  • jlally1jlally1 Member Posts: 8
    I have an 1989 S10 with 65K on it. I have put in a new thermostat and heater core. Now I need to direct more flow to the defroster when I move the slide to the defrost position. The amt of hot air coming from the floor vent doesn't seem to change when I move the slide to either position. Is there a trick to slowing the air flow from the heater(floor)and increasing the flow to the defrost vents. Any help would be appreciated what with winter coming on.
  • tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    ***The drivetrain in the S-10 is identical to the drivetrain in some fullsize chevys pickups.

    How will the brakes hold up? Is trans. cooler, etc. necessary, or will stock vehicle do? What is included in "tow package" - other than a good hitch, that is not found on stock truck?
  • markw8markw8 Member Posts: 25
    If this not too late. The 96 I had was easiest to change by removing the front wheels,then working thru the dust cover above the control arms. When you look thru, the plugs are right there. I hope this helps. Mark.
  • kc04kc04 Member Posts: 2
    Im thinking of buying a 2003 gmc sonoma 4wd crew cab. Since the truck is the last line of production, will it be difficult to find replacement parts??

    THank You
  • josonjoson Member Posts: 1
    I am planning to buy a used 2003 S10 (4 cyl) and I would like to have an insights for those people who owns one. Thanks
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