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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • flipper3flipper3 Posts: 10
    no surprise, you know almost all of the S-10s were made in shreveport louisiana, thats what i get for buying a car made in my home state.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    Hi,

    You had overheating problems - I think you were all set - but wanted to ask ....

    Canufixit
  • I have a 93 Chevy S-10 P/U, extra cab 2.8 5-speed 2wd, my tail lights are pretty bad, if you hit the blinker, they all blink, including the license plate lights, brake lights work, but when night time comes, i turn on the headlights and parking lights and the tail lights shut off and my blinkers do not work in the front or in the back. I NEED HELP!! ive been getting too many headaches. I put new fuses, relays, flashers and bulbs in. I cleaned up the tail light ground and put a new eye-loop on it. All of the bulbs are in the right places too. Can somebody please help me. It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165
    I'm "Not"the expert on Auto Trans - and therfore leave all the actual work to the pros ... Although I've been lucky enough not to have had auto trany issues).

    My Suggestions on the post you reference are my best advice "in General". What I recommend is that you take to the Dealer (or perhaps ask a couple) and ask their recommendation. They may back up my earlier advise - or - they may suggest another oil change. Providing that they look it over first, decide it has no issues and guarantee the change of oil and filter will not cause an issue - I'd spend the extra dollars they charge (vs a quick lube shop) and have it done at the dealer.
    I just don't like changing the oil at over 100K unless there is a reason to do so... I belive my manual list the initial change at 60K and then nothing after that is mentioned...

    The Auto Trans, in my opinion is a fickle part. Providing you do do not cause an issue (overheating the engine/transmision cooling) and don't beat on it - it's still a dice roll - you either have a good one for life - or a bad one. I've run my last few vehicles up to around 160K with only the fist oil change as specificed by the factory ...

    So go to the Dealer - and let us know what they say - and what you actually do ...

    Canufixit
  • Does anyone know why my idle would be pretty rough? It idles at about 500k, or a tad higher. Doesnt sound or feel right when just sitting at a stop light. Only has 30000 miles. Any ideas?
  • Well.... Could be a lot of things. How About some more info ... Been like this since new?? Only recently? ANy work done recently, etc ....

    One quick thought - At nightime in a dark area when it's runnning rough - Open the hood and check to see if you see any sparks jumpoing off the wires (and if you do DO NOT touch these until the engine is down ...). 3-4 years old now - possible a wire is cross shorting or loose on a plug ..??? We need more info ...
  • Hi, I have a 1990 chevy s10 and whenever it is put into four wheel drive the tires toe in to the point where it cant be driven (BAD). The truck is lifted by means of torsion keys and new control arms. Does anyone know what could be the problem. Could there be something wrong with the steering components or possibly the balljoints? Thanks alot!
  • Hi,

    Your front end and linkage (Tie rods, Connecting link, Control Arms, etc.) must hold the tires in the specified position. If the tires can toe in and out so it "can't be driven" you have major worn part here. I'd be reluctant to even drive it to a repair shop if it's that bad. So, Push/pull it to a decent alignment shop and have them check out the fron end and give you an estimate - although for it's age the repain my be more thant the truck ...

    Canufixit
  • hey on my blazer i had the same thing happen. so i changed the fluid & filter and it fixed it. but be very, very careful that you do not unplug anything in you x-msn pan. the plugs in the pan are for your gears. it lets them know then to change and what gear to change to so be careful.

    if you do it yourself there is going to be a big mess, so get a box and line it with trash bags. this should do the job for the fluid.
  • did you ever find out what was wrong with it, im having the same problem, if you did could you throw me a ling at friendzhahnhonda@yahoo.com
  • Hey all, I have a 2000 Chevy s-10 4x4 with a 4.3. I love this truck and all seems well except for a whining sound when the transmission is engaged and then while moving. It sounds unnatural and want to know if this is normal or if I should get it checked out before anything worse happens.

    Any input is welcome!
  • i would definately get that checked out, as my dad's s-10 transmission began to whine and soon spun the gears or something. it happened when we were on our way out of town to head up to the hills for a day. he noticed the whine a few days earleir and thought nothing of it, as did i. bad, bad mistake. while going up a hill all of a sudden we heard this wretching screetch and a clunk and the engine raced extremely high, prob. well into the danger zone before he let off the gas. lets jsut say it hasnt moved since. of course, this was right after we got the front end fixed because of shaking, jsut our luck
  • sorry, just saw the new reply. I have only owned this truck for about a month now, give or take. No work done that i know of. i will check the plugs for sparks and see.

    Also why would the cigarette lighter blow a fuse everytime its pushed in? i can put my phone charger in it and it will work. crossed wire somewhere? how can i find out where.
  • Your "shorted wire" is your cigarette lighter.
  • how can i fix that? Also i didnt see any sparks in the dark.
  • I had that problem too. Seams that an oil leak on the O2 wiring caused the problem. Something about it effecting the current. Replacing the O2 wireing by splicing was what fixed it.

    Rick
  • This is a distributorless ignition system, with MPI fuel system. Sometimes runs for a a minute or so, sometimes just a few seconds. Dies abruptly with no sputtering. Scanner reads no error codes. Have visually inspected everything I can think of. Fuel pressure is within specs. Fuel regulator is working. Battery cables and connections at battery clean. When engine dies, dash lights come on. I'm at the end of my rope. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
  • I have a 1991 chevy s-10 w about 120k miles. The truck has always run very smoothly. After seeing a noticeable leak of coolant I flushed out the radiator. After refilling and waiting to observe the leak I noticed that there wasn't a leak anymore.However, now the car was idling very roughly. When driving there was now a hesitation and stuttering in the acceleration. Additionally there is a knocking sound from the (air)filter area and the engine shakes a little. The car idles very shakily but doesn't conk out.
  • Hey, I don't have answers, but I have had the same sort of problem, along with a green (acidic?) buildup on the bulbs and in the taillight sockets.
  • Check to see if you knocked of a plug wire ...
This discussion has been closed.