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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    Actually, you have a good tire there. I had forgotten about the Toyo as it is not sold here in AZ(at least not that I know of). But when I lived in OR that was Les Schwab's house tire. It was a pretty good tire from what I remember.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    Actually, I beg to differ with you slightly on the Wal-mart battery. the techs, yes, a lot of the time they may or may not know how to properly test a battery. I find this to be true through out the stores I have visited. The particular store I went to they didn't seem to know or care, and I didn't argue. I should have pushed a little harder and I would've probably gotten a new battery, but since I was not totally 100% sure it was the battery than replacing the battery would do me no good if I still had problems elsewhere. I didn't know how much corrosion may have been inside the cables. For all I knew the battery could actually be good, and just may have needed water and a good charge.

    When I took the battery to a 2nd Wal-mart after doing my own testing, they didn't even bother to test it. Maybe this was because they were so busy they didn't want to take the time, or they could tell by looking at it that it wouldn't test good I don't know. But I ened up with a new battery.

    I actually would HIGHLY recomend Wal-mart batteries. I know we are going to have a difference of opinion in this but I might be able to see where you are coming from. Wal-mart get's its batteries from 2 major suppliers. Johnson Controls and Exide. Johnson Controls if I remember correctly also manufacture the Interstate brand of battery and and several others although off the top of my head I can't remember which ones. They also make the Optima line of batteries. It is one of the largest battery suppliers in the world. They are probably the best automotive battery in my opinion that you can get.

    Exide on the other hand I have not been very fond of. Wal-marts in certain parts of the country are supplied by Exide and this battery I would recomend you stay away from. I have never had good experience with Exides. It just depends on what part of the country you live in. I have Johnson Controls battery, but that didn't stop me from getting another Johnson Controls battery.

    Side Note Edit:

    I just took a look at the Johnson Controls website and here are some of the brands they supply batteries for:

    Motorcraft, Optima, Tru-Start, Honda, Mitsubishi, Maza, Eveready, Everstart, Die-hard, Kirkland Signature. I didn't see Interstate however so I may have been mistaken in saying that JCI supplies Interstate batteries. :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    Fuel Filter??
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    I beleive it is located right at the front of the motor in front of the fuel injector assembly. If the '03 is the same as the '01 than the water hose goes from the radiator on the right side and wraps around under the air intake assembly and back to the front.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    I know the original post was made a long time ago, but my '01 does it and my '95 V6 did it as well. It is the clutch fan and it is normal. The way it was explained to me is it is the clutch fan coming on to keep air flowing while the truck is just sitting and not moving. Mine only does it when I am sitting at a stoplight and while accelerating. Once I get going it the roar goes away. Also like mike3720 it only does it when it is hot outside. Usually when the temps reach about 100 degrees or more. Which means that in Phoenix when the temps reach 110 or more it is on a lot more. Even my A/C struggles to keep things cold at 110 degrees. The only way to get rid of the noise is to do what hoodlatch did and install an electric fan. I have yet to do that and just deal with the noise.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    4 or 6 cyl?? 4 cyl I am not sure about, but for the 4.3 hoodlatch is right - it's a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]... I did a starter on a '95 4.3Z and it was not fun. But didn't have to remove exhause though. It was a tight fit between the frame and the tranny, but it fit. I had to loosen both both bolts, and then drop the starter for the bolts to come all the way out because the bolts hit the fram before dropping completly off. I took the wheel off and went through the fender for the wires ( I think, it was several years ago that I did the starter.)
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    Aww haa! I got to this forum after being to the tire forum, so in case you get here before going to the tire forum.... I replied in the tire forum... and since it is almost midnight and I can't even type, much less really think, I'll just let you go over to the tire forum to see my reply :D. I am going to bed. My puncuation is bad, my grammer is bad and I don't even know what I am saying I am so tired.... You can't really tell that because I re-write what I type before I post, but oh well you get the drift.... :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    I am having an intermittent A/C issue (it seems I am posting a lot more now that my truck has hit 100K :D). I have yet to nail it down as to what causes it, but at times it seems that a vacumn or a baffle gets stuck somewhere. There are times when for some reason the A/C will not blow as hard out of the vents as normal. It happens on MAX A/C and it would seem to happen on normal A/C as well. When I turn the fan all the way up, I can hear the fan blowing the air inside the air box (it sounds like a roaring frieght train, but very little air comes out of the vents. So I am wondering if there is a baffle that is getting stuck? And if so, how hard is this to fix, or is it better left alone? I don't think it is the fan going out as I can hear it blowing the air, but just very little comes out of the vents. It only does it intermittently, but usually intermittently will turn into frequently and eventually constantly if not attended too..

    oh - it's a 2001 Ex-cab 2wd. That's S-10 :D Since were in an S-10 forum I would hope that it being an S-10 would be safe assumption, but just in case.... Although the year is helpful :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    I will do some tests to find out... I did it again today and I did notice that Max A/C high, the air flow was not as much as the Norm A/C. And that is usually reversed. MAX A/C blows harder than Norm A/C on the highest setting....... but I will do some tests to see how the air flows from Vent to florr etc... Thanks for the tip
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    Did you get the caliper for the correct side?? Meaning you didn't accidently get a left side caliper and put it on the right side? I did that and had the same thing happen... That was one of my Doh moments. :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    My A/C has yet to repeat the issue, so I don't think that I am will to tear into my dash for an intermittant problom, but when it becomes more frequent as I am sure it will, I will follow your advice and see if that will fix it! THANK YOU! :D

    How the tires working out?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    I will cycle through everything... since I live in PHX AZ, I rarely rarely ever run anything other than the A/C and norm A/C most of the time because I travel lots of miles I and I feel that norm A/C keeps the cabin air fresher... So thanks for the tip.

    Wow... I would say that you had a bad tire install. I just hope they used a torque stick and a torque wrench afterwords to avoid over/under torquing the wheels and having them either strip the lugs or even worse have the wheel fall off. Having managed a tire shop before I have seen everything you went through - although not usually all in one blow :D....
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    It could be the Rear U-joint. I just had mine rebuilt at it was making a "clunking" noise when I was taking off from low speeds or driving at low speeds - like your 1-15 MPH. My "clunking" noise was more of a "grinding" noise however, but it was continuously heard on every rotation of the driveline. Different people might describe the noise differently so it is possible it is the same thing.

    One if the tests to do is to put the vehicle in park and grab the rear wheel and rock it back and forth and see if you can replicate the noise. Or grab the drive-line and see if there is play in it. I thought it might be my rear diff but it turned out that it was just the u-joint. Much cheaper to replace than having a diff rebuilt.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    LOL - Let us all know and also if it increases HP and engine performance since it doesn't have to run the fan anymore... I'd be willing to do a conversion also :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    there are two sets of fuses - one in the dash and also under the hood. Check for blown fuses there. It is all an electrical connection and the most likely place to the connection to have a problem is where the electrical circuit is weakest. The bulbs being the weakest and most prone to burning out. The next is the fuses. Usually something causes fuses to blow, like a short. I keep blowing fuses in my turn signals every time I hook up a trailer because by wiring harness is frayed and every time I hit metal I blow a fuse. See if there is a blown fuse under the hood in the fuse box on the driver's side. Unscrew the cap holding the box cover in place and there is a fuse locator diagram on the under side. Also a place to keep replacement fuses.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    they should be fuses just like those in the dash... in the 96, I am thinking it might be a little different than an '01 like mine but there should be a fuse box under the hood. If the fuses under the hood are good and the bulb is good, than your problem lies elsewhere? Not sure where to go after that since I am not big on the electrical side of things.... (I drive around with a frayed trailer connector :D)
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    Okay here is one that I need help on :D..... or maybe it's :sick:

    My normally perfectly running '01 V6 decided to hicup on me today. On my way home from town the A/C all of a sudden quit blowing cold and then I glanced down at my gauges and my temparature gauge was pegged. I mean pegged as far over as it could go. Prior to the A/C blowing hot (it had been blowing ice cold just moments prior) there had been no sign that the vehicle was running hot and I had just checked my gauges for speed etc ect.... I immediatly pulled over and shut down the vehicle. However it didn't seem to be running abnormally. I got out and there was coolant dripping out from underneath the vehicle. The motor/engine bay didn't feel any warmer than usual. Nor did I see or smell anything unusual aside from the coolant coming from underneath the truck. But the overflow bottle was full. I checked the overflow tube, but it was dry hence the coolant wasn't forced into the overflow bottle and out the overflow tube. The coolant draining out was not coming from there. I would like to note that I have just recently had the radiator tanks in the radiator replaced and so the coolant in the vehicle is less than 6 months old. The vehicle has also never overheated before.

    I turned the key on and turned the heater on, but it didn't get warm. I turned the blower on full blast and the temparature all the way to hot. But the air coming out didn't get any warmer than what it would on cold vent on a warm day. Also I noticed that as I moved the temp from cold to hot and back to cold the cold side blew harder than the hot on the same fan speed setting.

    I drove the vehicle a couple more miles since it was only about 4 home. But the motor starting clattering so again I immediatly pulled over and shut the vehicle down. Same issues as before. Even while driving the hot air I had coming out the vents didn't get any warmer than vent would. And I had the temp set all the way to hot. This time when I popped the hood I could smell something slightly burnt, but it didn't smell like coolant. Also the air coming out of the vents had a slightly burnt smell to it. It was at this point that my temp gauge dropped back to below normal operating temp. When I turned the key on without starting the vehicle, the temp gauge would spike over to the warmer side than drop down to below normal (also note that my gauges do not do a "spikeing" self test as some new vehicles do They just go set themselves to where they need to... the fuel gauge to it's proper lever, battery, oil pressure and of course the temp.) This is odd because if the vehicle were actually over-heated I would think that the gauge would stay over on the above normal side until it had cooled off sufficiently on it's own. At 100 degrees outside and the motor running, driving down the road to me that is doubtful the gauge would drop so quickly from being pegged to below normal, if indeed it was overheated.

    So I started the vehicle. It clattered slightly than ran. I shut it down and did the same thing. It clattered again. When I started it a third time a couple minutes later, it didn't clatter, but coughed and then blew a slight amount of BLACK, not white, smoke that smelled of unburnt fuel. I shut it down and din't start it again after that. By that time my tow vehicle had shown up and we towed it home. On the way home - with the key on, the temp gauge again pegged all the way over 260 and stayed there for the rest of way home. It is now sitting in the driveway till it cools down...

    Any thoughts on what could have happened ?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    heater core? That sound's like fun. Not looking forward to pulling the dash out. Wouldn't the heater core if it went out, leak fluid into the cab of the vehicle. Everytime I have known someone who had a heater core core out had a mess of fluid in the cab. Also why then would I have fluid leaking from the front of the truck underneath the radiator?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    I was a little worried I might have caused some engine damage (and I might have), but I just went and started the truck and it started fine, and sounded normal. I only ran it for a few seconds, to see how it started and how it would run once started. The check engine light was also on, but I don't think I will run it long enough to drive it to the nearest shop to run the code. Once it is daytime again, I'll tear into it to see what I can possibly find, or find a friend who can run the code for me.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,068
    I did not smell coolant coming from the vents while I drove it the couple more miles. If it is the heater core, would that be a sign to look for? Would I be able to turn the ignition on and the run the fan without the vehicle running and get a coolant smell if there is one to be had? Or would I have to run the vehicle long enough to get the coolant flowing. If I can I would like to avoid running the vehicle for any length of time until I can get a code computer and see what my check engine light is telling me. If it is a heater core issue I would also like to keep coolant from circulating as well since I don't want to end up with coolant on the inside of my truck. I don't want to have to deal with that mess. I didn't have time to check it out today, but should tomorrow (hopefully :D. With starting a new business and trying to get a new home finished and with a family reunion coming up and the fact that I am living at my in-laws with and I barely have a bedroom to sleep in at the moment and all my tools are packed away in the unfinished garage, this has been an interesting kink thrown into my plans... This was all I needed was for my once reliable truck to have a fit. Oh well. Such is life. :D)

    It's almost too bad I don't have the finaces to get a different vehicle. Not that this one is a bad one I'm just not wanting to deal with issues like this. Once this is done I still have to deal with the knock in the steering column and the worn out front end. I also need to give it it's 100K spark plug and wire change and tuneup. But at least the vehicle was drivable till now. It would be easier to dump the problems and get a different vehicle, but whose to say that the different vehicle wouldn't exhibit problems as well? So... in reality these are fairly minor issues and should be easily and fairly inexpensive to deal with. Once dealt with I should be able to get many more miles out of the vehicle, provided nothing else goes wrong, or I caused more damage than I want to think about when I drove it with it's coolant problem... Then maybe I'll dump it and get something else. :D
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