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Volkswagen Golf Care & Maintenance

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  • mohatu, I just checked the maintenance guide. Check timing belt is on the list for the 40,000 mile service. Under the 60,000 mile service, the recommendation is to change the timing belt. I think this link will take you to the 60K schedule.

    To talk more about the Passat, please visit one of our active discussions on this vehicle. You can locate them using the make/model drop-down menus at the left. Thanks!

    kirstie_h
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  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Others have had additional service completed while having the timing belt done...frequently the water pump and belt tensioner are changed. You save the labor, since doing this service requires pulling the front bumper to make room for the work.
  • cmcvwcmcvw Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Jetta GLS, with the standard engine. I am at 99K now, so I made an appointment at the local VW dealer to have my 100K check-up, in hopes of going over everything to make sure there are no problems before my 10yr/100K mile power-train warranty is over. They told me it would cost $400?! Is this normal? Has anyone else had this done?! I mean, I know they check and change multiple things, but they only replace a few filters and the spark plugs. Although I haven't had any major problems, I feel like this car has been so expensive to upkeep. Is this price normal/expected?
  • Hey there folks. I just brought my newly purchased '01 eurovan in to the local dealership for it's 25k oil change. I just about died when I got the bill... $69 for an oil change! They charged 33 for labor, 16 for the filter, 12 for the oil (at 2/quart), couple bucks for a filter gasket, and a 7% mandatory charge on labor for "misc shop supplies". Now... I know the Eurovan's are a quirky beast and might be a little more tricky than the typical oil change, but this just seems crazy! I'm curious to know where other Euro and/or VR6 owners are taking their rigs for oil changes and if I'm in the typical cost range at the dealer. I hesitate to take it to a quick lube, but really don't know specifically if there would be a true negative for doing so, but who knows. Any thoughts/comments?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,480
    Yes that 400 dollar bill sound "normal" You might be able to bring it down somewhat by buying correct parts and fluids and giving them to the shop to change out. It is the labor rate that takes the biggest chunk out of the 400 dollar bill. Shop rates in this neck of the woods is like 90 per hour, so I am swagging 3-4 hrs for labor. plus parts retail profit.
  • 99jetta99jetta Posts: 4
    I just had to replace the plug wires, cap and rotor on my 99 Jetta and it only has 71K miles on it. They were so bad that the car actually wouldn't run. I was under the impression that wires should last around 100K. I think the recommendation is to replace at 60K but as a single mom, if it ain't broke I can't fix it. Anyone have any advice on this? Is there anything else that should be done at this mileage to prevent another break down? (I lost my owners manual). Thanks!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    On 2001.5 Passats, the timing belt should last between 90K - 105K. When your mileage gets in that range, it's a good time to replace the timing belt (also a good time to replace all the belts as well).

    With the exception of diesel-powered cars (belt change recommended every 60K miles), changing the timing belt before the aformentioned mileage intervals is a waste of money, from my experience (I've owned 4 VWs now).

    Hope this helps...
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    does anyone know the exact specs for an 02? I believe its a 16 x7in , whats the offset?
    Is any VW 16 x7 in wheel likely to fit??
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I guess no one knows, including VW customer care who I have spoken to twice!! Amazing!
  • Hey I've got a problem with my glowplugs but don't know much about them other than where they are. My kinda u shaped metal piece melted within that clear cap to the back of the engine and my CEL is on but I'm unsure why it melted, is it because I have a glowplug thats gone or is it a separate problem? I tried to replace it but it smoked up and blew again, thats why I know there is a problem! One things for sure, the car won't start when it get to -10degrees Centigrade! I just want to restore this problem so I can get back to a nice 50 mpg on the car. Its has 218 000 kms 98 TDI, love the car!
  • I had a "coolant migration" problem diagnosed by the dealership. The symptoms were that the electrical system was behaving intermittently problematic and irregularly (i.e. ARS light coming on - then going out; EPC light coming on - then going out; engine light coming on - then going out) I took the car to the dealership immediately. I was told that it was "coolant migration" and that this is a design defect and VW is paying for the repair. I was further told that the coolant had come into contact with the temperture sensor contacts and traveled the wires to destroy the entire electrical system.

     

    The entire wiring harness had to be replaced. (2 weeks repair.) Upon replacing the wiring harness and before returning the car to me, i was informed that the catalytic converter melted on the test drive, that the O2 sensors are burned out, and that all the sparkplugs were toast. This sounds very bad to me. They explained that upon testing the car, the computer was sending a 80% fuel /20% air mixture to to the engine, causing engine to flood and sending a ton of fuel to the catalytic converter. Thus explaining the spark plug and catalytic converter problem. The repair for this is to replace the sparks, the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors. In the process they broke and air return nipple which is now being replaced.

     

    1. Is this believeable? Do the explanation fit the problem?

    2. What is going on here?

    3. How can i be sure that they haven't destroyed my car? I am worried that the engine, valves, pistons, cylinders, etc. have all been compromised.

     

    HELP.
  • Do you know if I can use an extended timing belt on my vehicle and if so can you provide me some information on what belt can be used? Thank you.
  • kiacookkiacook Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm thinking of buying a 99 Passat. On my old Geo Prizm I could take it to any shop for oil changes and maintenance. A friend told me I would have to take a VW to a dealership. Is that true? If so, I'm reluctant to buy one because maintenance would be much more expensive.
    Thanks!
  • theseustheseus Posts: 2
    I bought a used 99 Passat 20v turbo 1.8 that didn't come with an owner's manual. I've drained the transmission fluid but I can't figure out where to add it. Can anyone explain it?
  • RivieraRiviera Posts: 2
    Hello All: Looking for some info. Am considering diy on my 1999 Passat rear pads (no pulsing or scraping sounds on the rotors so I am only doing pads). You seem to know about brakes so I would like to ask you a few questions if you don't mind.
    Do you know the correct size of the allen wrench and crescent wrench needed to do the job?
    Is it really necessary to replace the bolts? Haynes manual says yes.
    Also, Haynes says you can retract the pistons using "a pair of needle nose pliers" but they don't illustrate that. Is it necessary to apply pressure while you rotate the piston or does it "screw" itself back?
    I have done disc brakes on a 1990 buick and replaced one caliper on a saab. How good do you have to be to do this job and get the complex parking brake adjustment right?
    Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks
    Larry Lapham laurencelapham@aol.com
  • donshardonshar Posts: 3
    I tried to replace the plugs on a 1995 Jetta yesterday and found that 2 of the plugs were not accessible and 2 of them barely accessible. What items need to be removed in order to change the plugs on a Jetta?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    You can access the other two spark plugs by either 1)using a swivel socket attachment or 2) removing the upper section of the intake manifold
  • OK....I'm approaching 40k on my '03 Jetta, 1.8T, Automatic. I'm loving the car, but I have some complaints.

    Problems: I've had it in the shop for a fallen power window, a brake sensor that clogged with ice, a fallen gas tank door button (girlfriend pushed LIGHTLY instead of pulling up the first time she filled it up). Nothing major, but those are annoying reasons to sit in the shop.

    Problem: When I start the car after it's sat for a few hours, it's sluggish for about the first 2000 feet I drive. If I'm in my space and back out, sometimes it has even shut off on me. Any ideas as to what this could be?

    Complaint: This isn't having to do with the problems. Their maintenance schedule is completely insane. Approaching 40k, I've already been warned that the 40k service is going to run me about $400. I've tried to get things done at other shops, but all are the same or more expensive than the dealer. So, after that service, I will have put about $1000 into maintenance for just 1 1/2 years. My girlfriend's Honda Civic asks for nothing more than tire rotations and oil changes for 100k, and she gets those for free through her dealer. So, I'm inches away from trading.

    I love the car, but it's costing way to much to keep maintained and it has an annoying problem (I'm mentioning the problem on Saturday.)
  • donshardonshar Posts: 3
    What is involved in removing the upper section of the intake manifold?
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