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Mazda Protege5

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Comments

  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    I do believe you are correct, the river was on fire. Plus, that was in Cleveland. I was in wonderful Erie, Pa. Pressqueisle State Park to be exact. Pretty nice place I think.


    http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/stateparks/parks/presqueisle.htm

  • dsm6dsm6 Posts: 813
    Clevland's Cuyahoga River, which fed pollution (oh, and water too I guess) into the lake. That was some time ago, and things are better now. Just don't eat the fish.
  • jas9297jas9297 Posts: 26
    Hello all. Now that I've broken in my P5, I was wondering if anyone knew what minor modifications (intakes, etc.) can be done to increase fuel economy. I got over 31 on my first 2 tanks, mostly easy hwy driving. My latest tank was 29.8 mpg. Anyone have any ideas?

    Also, to "meinrad", what model Hidden Hitch did you get, and what other parts? Thanks a lot!
  • mustang87mustang87 Posts: 129
    jstandefer- can you please if possible get me the contact info (email) of the guy with the 323 gtx awd turbo that came to your california meet. I got a 323 owner in my club, its not a turbo though, so he is interested in learning more about the car.

    sharonf, no reason that i am asking. you mentioned that you want to lower your car and i kinda figured you can't be too old if you wanna go that way :)
    i think this board's average age is higher than on other p5 boards but its also is a good thing as the discussion here are more mature. sure we get into fights but we kiss and make up, right guys?
  • sharonfsharonf Posts: 120
    Okay....so I'm a dinosaur....I don't have a digital camera....still get my film developed...and scan the ones I want to put on my comp.....
    but on the other hand....I wanna lower my P5...=)

    Mustang...okay...fair answer. I feel like this....I'm 34 chronologically....and have no problem acting my age when I need to......but in the down time...I'm still somewhere in my twenties! Good thing is...I often pass for it too! =)
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    Sharon, I'm sure you've done your research on this subject, but the main thing most of the "kids" fail to take into account when fitting shorter springs to their cars is the fact that wheel travel (the distance between full compression of the suspension and full rebound) is reduced, and the working length of the shocks is shorter too. Lowered cars tend to crash down on their bump stops on bumpy or undulating pavement, which definitely affects how the car rides and handles. Also keep in mind that suspension engineers aren't stupid, and have spent a lot of time matching spring length and frequency to the shocks fitted. Generally speaking, you shouldn't change springs without also changing the shocks - think of the shocks as "controlling" the springs, because that's really what they do. A lowered car often requires shocks with shorter pistons and more aggressive valving, otherwise one severe bump could "bottom out" the shocks, and that damage will definitely be your responsibility, not Mazda's. Enjoy your car, but be careful about making piecemeal changes to it's engineering.
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    It's Hidden Hitch Part #60948, specific to the P5. It comes with a drawbar but I didn't need it since the yakima rack itself installs in the receiver. Btw it's a 1 1/4" class I hitch. I didn't get any wiring done since I don't plan to tow with it, just use the bike rack. I didn't install it, but it looks pretty easy. Just drop the muffler and bolt in on, no holes to drill. Thats pretty much it, no other parts or anything.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    well said. We just had this discussion in the sedans board but you took much more time to explain it than I did.
  • mustang87mustang87 Posts: 129
    sharon, i don't have a digital camera either. i get my film developed like you do and i scan it in.i got a cheap artek scanner which amazingly makes photorealistic pictures. i don't have a dvd either. hope i didn't make you or anybody else mad. :)
    and oh yeah, listen to silver_bullet
  • bjewettbjewett Posts: 62
    Hi all,

    After much debating I finally bought a P5 (mid. blue, mid-cycle refresh 5-spd). Two questions:

    1) It may be a FAQ but I seem to remember a discussion about a door rattle. For me, I hear a rattle in the right-front (passenger) door when the window isn't all the way up. Does anyone know what exactly needed fixing to eliminate it?

    2) Anyone know the speaker sizes in the car? The fronts look to be 5x7, while the rears have the same grille size but seem smaller, and round. I'm gonna replace them. Anyone go with 5x7s all around?

    Any comments welcome, thanks.

    Brian
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Hey, congratulations!


    1) Window rattle when not closed all the way. Not much to do here. Either open it more or close it. I note the same rattle in my sedan. I think it's the loose edge of the window glass hitting against the trim on the door on either side of the glass. If it really bugs you, you can attempt to apply some caulk or foam tape under the metal clips that hold these trim pieces in place.


    2) 6x8 or 5x7 (with a hole pattern that also fits 6x8) up front. Here are a few sites about speaker replacement in the P5:


    www.protege5online.com/Tech_Help/Audio/ [break to bypass the 115-letter limit] Speakers/speakers.html


    http://byrneweb.com/sunburn/newcar/install.html


    www.astolfo.com/p5/p5.asp


    To put anything else but round speakers in the rear doors would mean cutting away metal (not recommended as this would weaken them in side impacts), unless you pick speakers that are tiny enough so that you have to add metal to mount them.

  • sharonfsharonf Posts: 120
    I think I heard a rattle today for the first time also. It happened to be one of the few times I didn't have the radio on. I had both the right side windows almost completely open...and the left side shut...and seemed to be hearing a rattle from the driver's door?? I'm going to investigate it further tomorrow.
  • mudflatmudflat Posts: 47
    Needing a cargo tray to hold my messy chainsaw and hockey mask, but being too cheap to spring for a nice factory one, I started looking around and happened to come across an acceptable substitute at Lowe's for $12.96. It's a 36"x24"x8" semi-flexible black plastic tub that I found in the concrete section. It fits fine, with about 2" of clearance on each side between the towers, and about 6" back to the lower edge of the hatch opening. It's called a MacCourt all purpose super tub.
    I have't had a problem because of it sliding around, but plunking it down on a Natural Aire foam airconditioning filter (Wal-Mart) will anchor it nicely.
  • I've been reading this site for years and am finally doing by first post. Have some questions for the experts before I do the trade.

    1. I've seen pics here of P5 withoutroof rack but also without inserts (seems as though the guy who did this just used tape a glue to plug the holes -- not to my taste). Does anyone have pics of P5 with inserts as provided by Mazda?
    2. Will I notice that much of an increase in acceleration/power from the 1.8L to the 2.0L? (Was interested to read a posting here about someone who had both a 2000 ES and a new P5.)
    3. Just read Consumer Reports article on the P5 class of vehicles. Very confusing/frustrating. CR puts the P5 down the list, yet when the ones above it in the rates are examined P5's competition always fall short, whether it's reliability, mileage, warranty or fit 'n finish. CR's big beef seems to be noise and stiffness of ride, which finally brings me to my question: Is the ride all that different between the ES and the P5. Is the P5 all that much stiffer? I don't quite understand the suspension differences between the ES and the Pro5. (Were there changes made in suspension between the 2000ES and the 2002ES?) Secondly, I've never thought the road noise in my ES was all that great and I have OEM tires. Can't imagine how much quieter replacing my tires with those recommended on this board would be. Is cabin noise more pronounced due to a unified cabin in the Pro5 (even with a cargo cover) versus a separate truck in the ES? Your ideas on noise and ride in general would be appreciated. By the way, I have test driven a P5 and loved it, but when you're psyched about a first drive you miss things.
    4. Has anyone used a roofrack on an ES? I have one which I used on my old 92 Pro but am a bit reluctant to use it on my "pristine" 2000. Don't want any scratches.
    Thanks again for any input... looking forward to contributing more.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    This year was the 33rd anniversary of Cuyahoga River burning. The river was so thick with pollution that it caught fire June 21, 1969!
    The burning river mobilized the nation and the flaming Cuyahoga River became a rallying point for passage of the Clean Water Act. I was just a kid, when I lived in the Cleveland Heights section of Cleveland from 1968 thru 1971. I will always remember my dad taking me down to where the Cuyahoga merged with Lake Erie! A lot of dead Yellow Perch and Carp. At the time, there was a very popular T.V. commercial, a native American Indian in full dress surveyed the site of a polluted landscape and cried at the mess. Everywhere you went, people wore Ecology Now T-shirts. As you know, Lake Erie is vastly cleaner in the year 2002, however I've heard the Cuyahoga River is reverting to a badly polluted sewer? Jeeze,....to bad for Cleveland.

    -old head
  • sunbyrnesunbyrne Posts: 210
    I'm not sure they're really all *that* different. The ride in the P5 is about the same as in the ES--it's not noticeably stiffer, at least not to me.

    There is more wind noise in the P5, but most of that is because of the roof rack. I don't hear a difference in road noise, but I'm not very sensitive to road noise.
  • pciskowskipciskowski Posts: 155
    I saw this on another board where someone was talking about their Millenia versus an Accord, but I think we can all relate:

    "I also don't have to try my remote on every car in the WalMart parking lot to figure out which one is mine because it looks exactly like the other 5000 cars parked there. I just look for the best looking car on the lot, start it and drive off."
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Look on the sticker and you'll see the P5 is listed as an ES-5. That means their trim level is essentially the same. The only real differences (IMO) are:

    Sedan has a stiffer rear end (because the speaker deck is a brace for the two rear strut towers, whereas there isn't anyplace to put one in the P5).

    P5 comes with a front strut tower brace.

    P5 comes with MP3 body clad-ons (front bumper & fogs, side sills).

    P5 antenna is a flexible whip (removable for when you go through an automatic car wash -- I wouldn't) while sedan's is a manual pull-out.

    P5 2002.5 has side marker lights on the front fenders.

    P5 rear speakers are in the rear doors and are round v. elliptical.

    P5 rear doors have small map pockets (still no cupholders).

    P5 has more rear head-room.

    P5 rear outboard seats have adjustable headrests.

    P5 is shorter by 3-4 inches (to minimize effect of more sheet-metal in the rear on handling). Great for anyone with lots of junk in their garage.

    Since the P5's cargo area is more open to the cabin, you'll hear more road noise from the back. All hatches and wagons are like this versus their sedan brethren.

    2.0L v. 1.8L. I don't think you'll note any real difference in 0-whatever times. If anything, the P5 will be slower due to its additional weight (more sheetmetal and bracing for the wagon shape...I think about 200lb). The consensus seems to be that the 2.0L makes more torque down low for faster starts in daily local driving, but seems to run out of power at a lower RPM than the 1.8L. The 2.0 is harsher-sounding at elevated RPMs (think 5000 and up) than the 1.8L. Economy seems to be the same.

    I use a roof-rack on my '99LX. I take it off when I'm not using it to avoid the wind noise and the hit on my economy (I notice a loss of about 2mpg with it on, even with the fairing). It also minimizes scratching due to dirt accumulating where the rack contacts the car. Since the rack clips onto the door frame, your door weather seals are also compromised when the rack is mounted. This leads to additional wind noise and water seeping in between the doors and the door frames.

    Once your rack is "tailored" to your ES, it should take only a few minutes to remount it. It takes 2 minutes to remove my roof rack (Mondial) and about 10 (inlcluding cleaning) to remount it. The hardest part is putting it in or taking it out of its storage spot in my utility room.

    Also, before I mount the rack, I carefully clean off both the rack fairing weatherstripping, footpads and clips and the areas on my Pro where the rack touches to avoid trapping grit.
  • hurler4hurler4 Posts: 104
    lovemy2000es1, What were the top picks in Consumer Reports? Was the P5 really near the bottom?
    I was at a bbq yesterday and my friend who was hosting it just bought a Pontiac Vibe. I took a good look at it inside and out, and it is very impressive. I had rented a P5 in southern California a couple of weeks ago and loved it, but the Vibe seems more solidly built. Was the Vibe at or near the top of the list in Consumer Reports?
    What other hatchbacks were listed? I really want a hatchback, but don't want to jump in too quick until I compare them all.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Read the various articles (including those on Edmunds, who really like the P5) and then take them for real test drives (local, freeway, hard stops, tight turns etc.) before making your final decision. They're all affordable, but then again, $15-$22k (or higher, depending on brand and model) is still a big chunk of change.
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