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Mazda Protege5

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Comments

  • dwryterdwryter Posts: 87
    Three questions about changing front speakers:

    1. How difficult is it to remove and replace the door panels to get to the speakers?

    2. Have you experienced more squeeks and rattles from the doors after removing/replacing the panels?

    3. If I do this, should I get some extra doorclips in advance to replace any that might break?

    I'd like to upgrade the speakers, but not if doing so it likely to increase the number of rattles.

    Thanks!
  • aguilaniaguilani Posts: 1
    I don't know if anyone reading this can help me or not... but I just wanted to post my story with my new Protege5 for all to read.
    2 months ago I purchased a Demo 2003 Protege5 (with 5,000 miles on it)from Brown's Alexandria Mazda (www.brownsmazda.com)(703-660-8400). When I first got the car I noticed that the brake pedal would vibrate when pressed. Thinking that the car is equipped with "anti-lock" braking I figured that this was normal. But the vibrations got worse; to the point that I took the car to the dealer to have it checked. PLUS I found out that my car does not have ABS. The Service rep at Brown's Mazda told me that the front rotors were warped and they will be replaced. The following day when I went to pickup my car, I noticed that the rotors were the original rotors and that they had been milled down (turned). I know that rotors can only be turned once in their lifetime, which means that in 40,000 miles or so, when the car needs brake work I WILL HAVE TO PAY FOR NEW ROTORS. I told the dealership's service rep that this was unacceptable and they refered me to Mazda (800-222-5500). I called Mazda and filed a complaint (Report # 886094) and they told me that the final decision would be up to the district manager of my area. Later I received a call from the dealership telling me that the decision was made to NOT REPLACE MY ROTORS!
    My wife and I own 3 Mazdas (2 Proteges and 1 miata) but based on this experience with Mazda and the dealership, I don't think I will ever buy a Mazda again (atleast not from Brown's Mazda or any other dealership in this 'DISTRICT')
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    The front doors are pretty easy to do. I did not replace any of the friction fittings (door clips), and I have had no additional squeaks or rattles from the doors. I will post some simple instrcutions for removing the panels when I get a chance.

    The rears are more difficult. I will also post some instructions for them.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    Before you do anything electrical, always disconnect the negative battery terminal.

    1. Remove the window garnish (this is the little triangle at the front of the window/door margin.) It just pulls off, no tools should be necessary, but if you find it difficult, you can use a flat head screwdriver with electrical tape wrapped around the tip. Later models have Tweeters in this position and it is easier to get a firm grip on it.

    2. Remove the screws visible in the door handle.

    3. The door handle is actually 2 separate pieces. Looks closely and you will see the that the inner part is hard plastic. This does not come off. Remove the soft plastic outer portion by separating it from the rest of the handle. It should slide towards the front of the vehicle. Then disengage the tab in the rear portion of the handle.

    4. Remove screws inside the door handle you just disassembled.

    5. Remove screw visible in door opener. The pull on the door opener. It should come out and hang loose.

    6. Use a flat head screwdriver to open the plastic trim piece on screw positioned at upper forward vicinity of door trim, and then remove the screw.

    7. Remove fastener at upper rear of door. Do this by pulling out the center portion of the fastener, and then pull out the whole fastener.

    8. Pull on trim at lower front corner to disengage the friction fittings. I find that quick semi-hard pulls accomplish this best and generally prevents damage to the fittings. Do this along the edge of the trim until all 6 fittings have come loose.

    9. Pull the door trim upward until the top of the trim disengages from the door. Be careful not to pull the trim away from the door! There are still wire harnesses attached. Then push door opener through the its opening in the trim.

    10. Unplug the wire harnesses for the power windows and the door locks (driver side only). Generally this requires pushing on a clip in the harness and gently rocking the harness back and forth until it comes out.

    11. Now you can pull the trim away from the door. Reinstall in reverse order.

    Tips:
    1. Look at door after trim removal to see if any friction fittings were left behind. If so, these can be pried loose with the ever popular flat head screwdriver (wrapped with electrical tape) and reinstalled in the trim.

    2. Check to see if door lock came out of its track when you removed the trim. If so, then put it back before reinstalling the trim.

    3. Be sure to reuse the black plastic ring trim around the OEM speakers when installing the new ones. It should come off with without trouble using a flat head screwdriver. You can add some rubber cement to make sure it sticks well to the new speaker. This protects the speaker from moisture in the door. You can see some pictures of what I am referring to here:

    http://homepage.mac.com/tboggs/PhotoAlbum1.html

    I don't think I had to modify the watershield on the Mazda speakers, but I could be wrong. These are pictures from my 2001 ES, so your speakers will not look like this.

    4. Pull on door opener to get it back in the trim.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    My rear doors were a bit of a pain to work on compared to the fronts. They were not put together exactly like my service manual described. Here are the highlights:

    1. Disconnect negative battery terminal.

    2. Remove screw in visible in door handles.

    3. Use a tape wrapped flat head screwdriver to disengage the clip inside the front portion of the door handle. This is the part that really gave me problems. My 2003 door handle had a slot in the bottom to insert the screwdriver. The problem was, my clip was installed differently than the service manual described. What I ended up doing was inserting the screwdriver through the top of the handle opposite the slot on the bottom. With this method, I was able to disengage the clip. Once the clip has been disengaged, then the outer portion of the handle should slide forward, and then disengage the tab on the rear portion of the handle. My advice is to have a lot of patience. Hopefully yours will be easier than mine to remove.

    4. Remove screws inside the door handle you just disassembled.
     
    5. Remove screw visible in door opener. The pull on the door opener. It should come out and hang loose.
     
    6. Remove fasteners at upper front and rear of door. Do this by pulling out the center portion of the fastener, and then pull out the whole fastener.

    7. Pull on trim at lower front corner to disengage the friction fittings. I find that quick semi-hard pulls accomplish this best and generally prevents damage to the fittings. Do this along the edge of the trim until all 5 fittings have come loose.
     
    8. Pull the door trim upward until the top of the trim disengages from the door. Be careful not to pull the trim away from the door! There is still a wire harness attached. Then push door opener through the its opening in the trim.
     
    9. Unplug the wire harness for the power windows. Generally this requires pushing on a clip in the harness and gently rocking the harness back and forth until it comes out.
     
    10. Now you can pull the trim away from the door. Reinstall in reverse order.
     
    Tips:
     1. Look at door after trim removal to see if any friction fittings were left behind. If so, these can be pried loose with the ever popular flat head screwdriver (wrapped with electrical tape) and reinstalled in the trim.
     
    2. Check to see if door lock came out of its track when you removed the trim. If so, then put it back before reinstalling the trim.
     
    3. Pull on door opener to get it back in the trim.

    4. I could not find a way to reuse the watershield when I installed my new speakers, so I got some baffles to protect them from water.

    5. The speaker adapter bracket I got from Crutchfield was a bit of a pain. Their directions did not work for me. I had to screw the adapter bracket to the door loosely, then position the speedclips on it. Then I screwed on the speaker to the speedclips loosely. Once I had done that, I screwed the adapter bracket the rest of the way on. Finally, I finished screwing the speaker to the bracket speedclips a little at a time while alternating screws. It was a very tight fit.
  • dwryterdwryter Posts: 87
    Man, Boggse, what a nice thing to do! Thanks for the clear instructions and even pictures!
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Rotors warping is pretty common and unfortunately turning them might not solve the problem. They may start pulsing again in a few thousand miles. One of mine warped on my 02 P5 and I ordered replacement Brembo cross drilled rotors shipped to my house for about $130 (rotors are very easy to install). In all honesty, I'm surprised your dealer even turned them for you since rotors and pads are not normally covered by warranty. I think you were treated fairly.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    Rotors and pads are covered under the 1/12k adjustment warranty IIRC. Generally, in the past, when I have had a rotor warp in the 1/12k period the dealer (not Mazda) replaced the whole rotor, but they certainly do not have to. Turning should be an acceptable solution. The work they did should be covered for an additional 1/12k, should you run into any problems.
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    So far so good. Size was increased to 205/50-16.

    Ride is definitely smoother with the taller sidewall. I no longer feel every single little crack in the road. That is certainly a good thing. Just riding I79 through Butler County will drive you nuts with all the bumps and grooves.

    Handling is no longer like I'm on rails. It's still good, but considering the Dunlops were getting to be racing slicks, there is no way I would expect full tread tires to match them for all out performance. I haven't really pushed them yet, but I'm sure I'll be more than happy when I do.

    Although not a great deal bigger, the tires seem to look big on the wheel. At first it kind of bothered me. It just looked out of place. But I've already grown used to it, and think they look just fine.

    So far I'm happy.
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    The dealer turned mine under warranty well after 1/12. Can't remember how long he said they were covered, but I had around 17,500 miles at the time.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Mine warped after 12k and the dealer wanted to charge me $100 to turn them. The after market Brembos made more sense in my case.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    If the dealer turned your rotors under warranty at 17,500, then count yourself lucky. According to the terms of the warranty, they shouldn't have.

    Brakes fall under the following headings in my warranty manual:

    Adjustments:
    Minor repairs not usually associated with replacement of parts. Covered for 12 months or 12,000 miles.

    What is not covered: Maintenance is at Owner's Expense
    Maintenance services such at worn brake linings, etc.

    Perhaps they warrant their rotors further, but it is not implicit in the manual. I personally would not expect my dealer to turn my rotors for free at 17,500 unless it happened right after a wheel rotation or something similar where they might have over torqued the lug nuts and caused the warping.
  • meinradmeinrad Posts: 820
    I never expected them to do it. I didn't even ask.

    He felt them pulsing during the clutch chatter test drive and asked if I wanted that fixed. I told him I wasn't ready to pay for it and he told me I wouldn't have to.

    I don't really remember how he stated it, but he said rotors were indeed covered.
  • bluong1bluong1 Posts: 1,927
    what are the reasons they get warped? Aren't they supposed to be very consistently built through out the manufacturing process? I heard that one shouldn't spray cold water into them after a ride. Many people who tend to do that while car wash.

    Bruno
  • cdnp5cdnp5 Posts: 163
    Just wanted to say that I achived a record breaking one tank on the weekend. The weather was amazing and the winds were calm (tail winds on the way home). For the 643.6km trip (400 miles) I achived 6.6 L/100 or 35.58 US Miles/Gallon. I will say that this was all back road driving where the cruise was set only at 100kph (60mph) and the sunroof was open.
  • acuintegraacuintegra Posts: 12
    Need help again... went shopping for a Pro5. I found one in black and one in midnight blue, either which is fine with me. The only difference, the black one, although is a 2003 was built was before Jan 2003 and the midnight blue one was built after and also 2003 and comes w/ the shock sensor alarm says the dealer. Also a difference, the mid blue one cost $19,303 while the black one cost $18,001. Dealer told me that Mazda raised prices on the ones build AFTER Jan 2003 resulting in the higher invoice price. Furthermore, he tells me that the ones built AFTER 2003 comes with a subwoofer while the ones built BEFORE Jan 2003 does NOT.

    The way I figure it, even if we figure in the cost of the alarm ($176), how the heck is there such a $1,100+ price difference between 2 cars and also doesn't everyone's Pro5 2003 come with a subwoofer?
  • loolalaloolala Posts: 19
    I posted one message about helping my friend got a P5 on "Mazda Protege Owners: What did you pay?"

    loolala "Mazda Protege Owners: What did you pay?" Jun 23, 2003 3:41am!make=Mazda&model=Protege5&ed_makeindex=.ef11a96

    We live near Oakland, CA, and they have tons of P5 in stock. We went on a Sunday afternoon and didn't see too many people shopping for cars. Anyway, we pay $16,500 out the door with better equiped car than the two you found! Hope this helps and good luck!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Only the pads are subject to the adjustment warranty. The rotors and calipers are 36mo/50k (48/50).
  • capitanocapitano Posts: 509
    Any P5 owners out there in the deep south? I'm looking at getting a P5 in the next few months, but I have read some comments about a weak AC system. I am supposed to move to Miami in 8 months and I don't to suffer from spontaneous human combustion due to inadequate AC.
  • acuintegraacuintegra Posts: 12
    The price the dealer is giving me for the P5 is $16,487 includ rebates but not tax. Opts are auto 4spd,leather, the sunroof pkg w/6cd, and the abs+side air, and sensor alarm. The roofrack unfort, is standard as he would say it.
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