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2013 and Earlier - Toyota Highlander Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • nacenace Posts: 45
    i purchased my 2010 se awd in may with some additional options (tow package, cross rails, power seat, mirror defroster and extra program key for about the price you were quoted (otd).
    my suggestion is to try libertyville toyota and shoot them a fair offer which you would be willing to pay..
    that is what i did after shopping many dealers. vary little haggling with them.
  • glennjrglennjr Posts: 21
    Real close on a AWD 4x4 Highlander SE lease at a dealer in NJ.

    $35,015 MSRP (Base SE with floor mats)
    $31,500 Negotiated prices/cap cost

    3 yr 15k $381/mo with inceptions down ($249 doc,$650 acq,$250 tags,$381 first month payment for a toal of $1575 down)

    Residual is $19,600
    MF is .0005 or just over 1%

    Im holding out for about $500 which i feel they can find in my trade or take off the Highlander. They are cutting me a check for the equity in my trade.

    Hopefully they sharpen their pencils tomorrow
  • fiecafieca Posts: 7
    Nace,

    What was your OTD price, I can't think of you got 31,706 OTD price. that means taking 7% tax off, they offered you SE AWD for $29487? did you buy on cash or what was the deal going on that time?
  • nacenace Posts: 45
    i inadvertently mislead you, for that i opologize.

    i purchased a base model 6 cyl awd. OTD price $ 31100
    msrp $31420.00 included options, tow package, dr power seat, reat air, engine immoblizer,tonneau cover, running lights, cold weather pkg
    cargo net, roof rack cross rails,extra programed key $ 28,641 before TTL, doe fee,
    how good of a deal , im not to sure. i know i will enjoy the car.
    my dealer is north west of chicago, suburbs.
  • spm1695spm1695 Posts: 8
    I bot a brand new 2010 Toyota Highlander Limited w/Navigation (Black w/beige leather) for $33,617 (before the taxes, plus $250 doc fee + $125 registration. I live in Boston area. I think I got a very good deal.
  • veal23veal23 Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    offer on highlander hybrid limited from dealer in Michigan, navigation, extra value package. no trade in.

    Price: 44,300 (plus tax, license, doc). Invoice price at dealer listed at 43,200. So offered price seems a bit high, but dealer willing to give us 0% for 48months.

    Is this a good deal? what are others getting?
  • Bought a base model, V6 4WD, Magnetic Grey with Ash interior.

    - Extra Value #2
    - Cross bars
    - Mud guards

    MSRP=$31,619

    Price:
    $25,925 - price of car
    $295 - Doc fee
    $25 State Fee
    _______
    $26,245 OTD

    Good deal? I think so based on what I have read.
  • That's an excellent price. Did you have a trade in or did you get a rebate?
  • In Houston got offered 33999 FWD Limited loaded Blizzard Pearl but without Nav... MSRP was 38853. Prices may still fall though after the 2011 model comes out Sept 24th with the slight refresh, new lights & front & rear bumpers, & split 3rd row seats. Still rumored for US but here it is in Russia">link title http://highlander.toyota.ru/media/Highlander.pdf. Hmmm what to do?
  • I have the following offer for a 2010 highlander base v6 w/ 3rd row seating, in San Jose, CA (bay area)-
    dealer inv: $24143
    options: $1076
    (power multi-adj driver's seat: $256,
    Extra value package(QB): $490
    cross bars: $150
    mats incl 3rd row: $180)
    destination: $810
    TDA: $483 ... toyota dealership association
    gasoline: $10
    dealer holdback: $555
    wholesale financial reserve: $277
    Total invoice: $27354
    discount: $100
    sale price: $27254
    tax title and other fees: $ 3020
    Total OTD: 30,274

    It comes with 2yrs/25k miles free scheduled maintenance. I'm considering buying an additional 2 years of maintenance for $450. I'm also considering 3 years 0% financing in lieu of $1000 cashback.

    Any comments on whether this is a good deal? Anyone know of or have had a better price in the area?
  • No trade in... I always try and leave trade-in out of the mix. It adds another variable that makes it harder to negotiate true cost. The vehicle I was driving is very old and I can sell it privately or donate. I think book on it $1700 but it needs work so Im hoping to get $1K for it. The short of it is trade-in was not in this price however the rebate was.

    I used the $750 rebate in my area, which I should have included in my original post. Even with that taken into account I think I got an excellent price. I would be curious to hear if others think so as well. I actually think they would have gone a little lower (long story), but at least I think Im near the bottom of where they would sell it.
  • this is a good price.
    I just got one base fwd white color. MSRP 31,000 (QB+PE and some dealer added tint/bluetooth/mat etc) got quote $26,200 after 1000 rebate over email. but eventually the dealer made me paid 200 more for 26,400.
    not the best I can do, but not too bad either.

    I am in Dallas area.
  • I think you need to squeeze a little more from them.
    In nov 2004, in bay area, I got a 2005 v6 base 2wd with 3rd row, driver power seat 27500 drive out, ($750 rebate applied), that is about $25K for the car. My experience: it is much easier to get a better price in bay area than in dallas area.
  • I think you bought for a good price as well. I should have noted as well that I bought on Aug 30th, end of month. I basically used the same strategy as I used when I bought our minivan a few years ago. you can probably find my post from then. A lot of the strategy I used was my own, but I also had a ton of help from people here and the web.

    The reason I think they could have gone lower is they came back pretty quick with the price I threw out.
  • I think you got an excellent price for a 4WD. What is/was your negotiation strategy? I'm looking for a similar configuration. Can you break down the price further? I want to see how much you paid for different options. Were there any region-specific adjustments/rebates?
  • any idea how much lower I can take them? the 2011 HLs should be out in about 3 weeks. did your price include rebate as well? did you pay separately for the options or did they lump it all up into one?
  • Yes it included a $750 rebate. I hear the 2011 might be due this month or maybe October. I wanted to snag a 2010 before inventory is low on the 2010 and I am willing to be the 2011 will not have incentives. I dont know that for sure, but its my guess.

    Im happy to provide a further breakdown on the car. What other details are you looking for in addition to what was in my original post.

    Strategy--

    - price the car at a number of dealers. This might be obvious but think its important to mention. I live in New England and there are a lot of dealers in my area. Use internet sales wherever possible to save time.
    - Have you ever used TrueCar? I think this is OK to refer (not against the rules) since I believe this site has popped up on other threads. truecar.com should give you an idea where your price is in relation to others in your area. TrueCar will also give you certified price in your area. Check it out and let me know if you see a good price. The caveat here is that whatever dealers pop up might not have the exact vehicle. If you fill out the form to submit for a free quote, make sure you ask if they have the vehicle you want. At the very least you have a bargaining chip for a low price.
    - You should really shoot for below dealer cost IMHO if at all possible. To do this the end of the month is key. I have tried to buy on the second to last day so that if something falls through you still have a day to work something else out as a fallback. Dealers do sell sometimes when they loose some money below their cost. Why? The number of cars they sell affects their allocation the following month. With 2011 coming out they really want to get good allocation when they arrive. Just my opinion really. Someone can correct me if Im off.
    - Start your search early in the month even if you buy at the end. There will be dealers you visit and dealers you hear from through internet sales that take time to get back to you. I found once I had a low price some would match or better that price. At the end of the month it helps because you will find dealers will go even lower. Even ones who did not want to negotiate mid month. I found many dealers asked if I had bought yet a few days before the end of the month and they would go back to the drawing board with a new quote. At that point, if they are not even close, I would tell them they are not even in the ballpark. Also dealers that dont contact you, you can email them as well and ask if they have any of the vehicles you like either in stock or on the way. Its a good way to re-establish the conversation and you might get them to come down in price. At that point as with other dealers I would share the low price and see if they can beat it. If not and they match it might be enough to just know they have a vehicle in stock that you like.

    - ALWAYS compare doc fees. Its legit but it varies from dealer to dealer. Ask them for any other fees that might be charged and work that into your cost. Rarely someone might not include the destination charge. Make sure that is included. Its the same across dealers but I had one dealer years ago not include it and it was a little deceptive.

    Im sure I might have more to add but that is it off the top of my head.
  • just thought you >$30K plus TTL is too high, as I think $30K should include everything for 2010 base v6 fwd with QB and PE.

    I am not sure how much lower you can get there.
    But in dallas area, I can get $26K (if not for the white color, which is about $200 more). considering california tax, this week; I think you can get a base v6 2wd with QB+PE at $28600 drive out (include tax and all fees) if you pay cash, $29700 drive out if you use their 1.9% APR finance.

    This is based on my this week experience in dallas and 6 years ago experience in bay area. send email to more dealers. I sent to 10 dealers there in Nov 2004, finally made a deal at dublin, and the process was much easier there.
  • camry1317camry1317 Posts: 16
    edited September 2010
    My salesman e-mailed me and offered me $29,900 for any new 2010 Highlander SE with an MSRP of about $35,000, and told me this is thousands below invoice (it really is) BUT I am not sure if I am in the market to buy as I already own another Toyota that only has 50k miles on it. I told them that I was not interested at this price so they told me to come in and we could try to negotiate a better deal. I'm not sure how much better it could get because they are offering me thousands off invoice and full KBB value for my trade. I am hesitant to even consider because if the incentive goes to 0% financing in a few days, I will be pretty upset.

    Had anyone seen a better price? Should I hold out for 0%? Could I possibly talk them down even more?
  • The quote I received in sf bay aresa for an SE was a dealer invoice of $30,795 which includes the destination charge of $810, carpet/cargo mats for $180 and $1548 for TDA+Gas+Holdback+Wholesale Reserve. TTL would be extra. If your deal includes TTL, then it indeed would be thousands less than invoice. Otherwise, it is about $900 less than the dealer invoice. Hope this helps.
  • That was the good deal, I'm looking for one, which dealership you went? thanks
  • Copeland Toyota in Brockton
  • I am in the bay area and looking to buy the SE AWD. Do you mind telling me which dealership gave the $30795 quote (includes the destination charge of $810, carpet/cargo mats for $180 and $1548 for TDA+Gas+Holdback+Wholesale Reserve) ?
  • Just bought in Iowa. 2010 Highlander SE 4WD with options:cargo/mats, blutooth and body molding. MSRP $35,513, Invoice $32,453. I bought at $31,903. I feel this was the best deal I could get and I worked it for a week. I will get my extended warranty at Midwest Superstore at about 1/2 the price. The real deal was on my 2006 Sienna trade-in, they were about $1,000 higher than 2 other dealers I had checked. Very happy, limited number of 2010 Highlanders left, most seem to be Limited and I don't want a 4x2 for the Iowa winter:) Rides smoother than I anticipated and I love the layout of everything so far. Blutooth answer button is blocked by the steering wheel but that is minor. Very impressed with the leg and head room in front and second seat. We have owned only Toyota since 1984 so I hope the luck continues. Prior to this, our Sienna was the best car I have ever owned or driven.
  • sorry for the late reply. it was piercy toyota in milpitas.
  • Hi all. Car-buying novice here. We're in VA (Fredericksburg area) and looking to buy a 2010 SE AWD.
    I was wondering if anyone has recent buying experience around Northern VA or Richmond and could tell us a good price to go for. We have no trade-in and were offered $31,000 + taxes and fees (which together totaled 2375) for black leather, black color.

    Does this seem like a good deal? It seemed high to me considering the 2011s are out, but again this is my first time buying a car and I feel very much out of my depth. Any help is much appreciated.
  • We are looking to buy a 2010 highlander SE 4WD in PA..and the best price we got was 31000.Is there any chance we could get a lower price on it?Have you folks seen anything lower on this forum?Or shd i wait till december and then buy?So confused.Thanks.
  • Hi!
    WAS 31000 the best deal you got cos we're getting the same right now and i'm not sure if i shd go for it or wait!
  • gc222gc222 Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    I purchased 2010 SE FWD with Rosen Navigation(includes bluetooth $1500 ) + Mats $245 for $31800 out the door in VA. Is that a good deal???
  • Is it safe to purchase a car out of state without doing a test drive on that particular car? Also all Highlanders should have the same regular specs/features regards of what region i'm buying the Highlander from, correct? EVP #8 should be the same at all regions, correct? The reason i ask is because one dealer was telling me otherwise.
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