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Suburban Tahoe Owners Meet the Members



  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    We have 3 chevys, a 2000 3/4 ton suburban, a 2002 3/4 ton 4x4, and a 2003
    Tahoe. Believe it or not all 3 have been good. The 2000 has 70k on it and has
    not been in for repair in 3 years. The 2002 has never been in for repair, it only
    has 19k miles, but I use it mostly off road, drive a car most of the time. The
    2003 Tahoe my daughter drives, has 24k and has only been in the shop once.
    She got rear ended some time back, and had to get a new bumper, the car
    that hit her, did much much worse, that is why she drives this.

    I think the 2000 does so well because it is made to tow trailers, and never has.
    But I do tow trailers with my 2002, and it pulls them so easy. One trailer I have
    weighs 9000 lbs, and my suburban pulls it without breaking a sweat.

    We are waiting on the new suburbans to come out, and will trade in the 2000
    for one.

    Any one seen what they look like. I have heard mixed messages, but have
    not seen a picture.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    Find a shop such as leather menders, and they can fix the bad piece, or
    replace the whole seat cover, for cheaper than dealer, or ebay.
  • I do not know of any way to clear this message. My 2001 Suburban displayed the same message and I took it to the dealer. I had to get a rear shock replaced because it was bad and the cost was $350. You may also have an airleak, which the dealer can spot and repair at a lesser price then a new shock. You can drive the vehicle with this message on and it will not hurt your Suburban is what the dealer told me. It will just drive like it does not have shocks and the air shock feature will not work to elevate the truck and make it ride smooth if you haul a large load or boat.
  • A couple of questions about my 99 Tahoe.
    1) I purchased a Tekonsha trailer brake controller that apparently plugs into the wiring harness under the dash. Does anybody know where? My Tahoe did come with the optional trailer package so it is supposed to be there.
    2) I really dislike the location of my spare tire. In my small part of Canada (as with many other areas) they use salt and gravel very liberally during winter. The spare tire and wheel are a mess! Has anyone ever tried to use the inside attachment (used on the older 2 door models) on a 4 door model? It looks to be in the same spot as the Jack is mounted now?
    Any help appreciated.
  • I am the Purchasing Agent for a large mining company. The Mine I work for is located in Northern British Columbia. We utilize several types of vehicles to move personnel, among which are 8 Suburbans.
    We have had a rash transmission failures due to the transmission cooling lines coming off. Apparently they are held in place with a small plastic clip that can break. Has anyone else had similar problems? :sick:
  • It took two weeks for '99 Suburban LT I just purchased to let me know something weird would happen: the right-turn turn signal seems to have shorted out to the hazard blinker cicuit; when right turn signal is activated, all the hazard lights flash; if the headlights are on when the right turn signal is activated, all the dash panel lights flash also! Tried replacing the flasher module, no effect. Anybody heard of anything similar and where the short might be? I hope I don't have to hire a witch hunt at the dealer's!!

  • Hello;
    My name is James (74marine) hobbies are hunting, fishing and spending time with my family. I currently have a used 2003 Tahoe Z71 5.3 engine with leather (not to fond of) but a good deal. I have had a few minor problems with the vehicle nothing major. It is a pleasure to drive, avg mpg 17-19. I am always curious of any problems / cures other owners have had with their Tahoes / Surburbans. Thanks.
  • Just purchased our first Chevy Tahoe last week. 2005 Z71,5.3L V8, Silver Birch, every option except navigation, 7000 miles, list was $49,090.00, scooped it for $29,000 and change. Extended the warranty to 75,000 miles. Just ordered K & N cold air induction kit to replace stock filter system. Anything I should know before installing this system?
  • Hello First-timer,

    I too am a first-time Tahoe owner and love it, but I am struggling with a couple of things. The most important one is a noise coming from the air conditioner. If you are sitting in the front seats, and the a/c is on Low fan, no entertainment running, we can hear the refrigerant rushing through the system. Does anyone understand what I am talking about, and have you found a resolution (besides turning on the radio)? Thanks.
  • There's a recent post in the Tahoe forum about K&N filters v. the filter you get with the towing package. I, too, recently bought my first Tahoe, a new 2005 LS. A friend recommended I get the K&N filter. Said it would improve performance and gas mileage. Is the filter different from the induction kit? What do people generally think about replacing with the K&N filter? Thanks.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    You may be interested in the K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? discussion.

    tidester, host
  • ltbikerltbiker Posts: 1
    I am looking for the Part Number for the rubber bumpers.
    and a cost.
    I have 130,000 mile on my Tahoe and like to keep in in good shape.
  • I own a 2004 2500 chevy suburban with the 8.1 liter and the 4:10 rear end and autoride with every option. the car tows our horse trailer like it is not even there and we have never had any problems with it at all. gas though is not that good. we avaerage exactly 10.2 miles to the gallon but it is worth it for the power you have with the car.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    I just upgraded (last night) to a 03 K1500 LT Burb, with 71000 mi. I know its high! mi. for the year but it was also a great deal. I paid $18426 , total OTD price was $19,438 after TTL, doc fees, etc, (I traded in my wife's Accord so I only paid sales tax on the the $1426 difference). High KBB according to my credit union is $23768. I feel pretty good about the deal, payments are less than the one for the Accord.
    BTW, now I need to sell my 96 K2500 LT GMC Burb. So for the moment I own 2 Suburbans.
  • jeff43jeff43 Posts: 14
    We have owned 3 Surburbans, one of them a GMC. We had a 1980 Chevy Surburban,(mostly for work), a 1986 GMC diesel Surbuban Sierra Classic, which, on a trip to Florida, returned 26 MPG. The 1980 we had for 234,000 miles, the 1986 for 218,000 the owner after us drove it to over 300,000 miles, and to my knowledge, is still running. Our current surbuban is a 1996 Chevy Surburban LT, beautiful cherry ice on desert gold. It has 156,000 miles, we love it, but the gas mileage is around 14 MPG. We probably will keep it till 200,000 miles.
  • zoltarpzoltarp Posts: 4
    I had this problem too and no mechanic or other person had even hear of it. I found that it was due to not changing the power steering fluid regularly. I ended up replacing the power steering pump and of course fluid. In hind site I could have probably gotten away with just flushing the heck out of the power steering pump with new fluid about four or five times.
  • zoltarpzoltarp Posts: 4
    Here is a link to, they have a whole lot of good stuff for our age trucks. Click on Seating & Upholstery and scroll down till you see this 92-99 UPHOLSTERY, LEATHER

    CTP-CKLT Your Price: $519.95

  • reismanreisman Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 GMC Suburban. I have been the only owner - immaculate care, regular oil changes - no problems - 110,000 miles. I have noticed in the past few months a gradually more audible scraping sound up high on the steering column near the steering wheel itself. I only hear this when I turn the steering wheel, and on rotation or turning of the wheel, I get a slight dragging or scraping sound from it, like something is barely touching. It sounds like a metal disk rotating on another disk as it rotates by, and isn't continuous - sort of like there are high and low spots that intermittently touch or don't as the wheel is rotated. The steering itself is fine, totally accurate - just feel like this is a plastic or sheet metal part out of place, or something that normally is to slide against something else is not sufficiently lubricated, or something that shouldn't touch at all now is touching, hence it is audible and not silent as it always was (and I would expect). Please help me with the solution. I am very handy and didn't want to just take it to the dealership if it was something I could easily fix. Not afraid to tackle it at all.
  • bobcookbobcook Posts: 1
    My 99 K2500 pulls left when applying the brakes after they have been used. No such effect is noticed when the brakes are cool. I just changed the calipers and this did not seem to alleviate the problem.

    I have noticed in some previous forum discussions that others have had a similar problem, but these links have since been pulled.

    Anyone have an idea how to fix this problem?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,016
    There's some "brake pull" posts over in the Tahoe discussion that may help. Here's one:

    bochev, "Chevy Tahoe" #4294, 9 Jan 2004 5:07 pm

    This link has some suggestions about brake pads and suspension issues. (Salem Boys Auto)

    Steve, Host

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