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Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance

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Comments

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Most third-party batteries aren't made for/don't fit in the Classic. Your best bet is to go to a Buick dealer (where I got mine when it died in 2002)... since the Riviera used a similar battery.

    List price was $129 in August/September of 2002, I think I paid $114. As long as my battery shows no sign of decline this winter, I will not replace it until next fall...
  • I would like to change the spark plugs on my 2002 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 litre gas engine. How do I go about it? I can't seem to locate the spark plugs.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    The spark plugs are right in the top of the cam covers. But there are no wires to them because the car uses coil-on-plug ignition. You'll have to remove the coil pack from each cam cover to reveal the spark plugs. I'd post a link to the aurora club of north america where there's a writeup of the swap, but I'm sure my reply would just get deleted, as Edmund's frowns on that.
  • The camshaft sensor on my 2000 or 2001 Aurora started acting up, causing unreliable starting. An auto mechanic removed the sensor and found a small metal chip on the face of it. A new sensor was installed and car operation returned to normal.

    My first question is: Where did that metal chip probably come from and what, if anything does it mean? Is there a big problem lurking ahead?

    Second, unrelated (I think) question: A lot of grease was found under the car near the right front wheel. It was on the framework and nearby items. If this grease came from the car, what is the most likely source? The mechanic removed most of this grease. I will return to the mechanic in a day or two and we will see whether more grease shows up, and if it does, try to find the source.

    Thanks for any info on these items.

    Regards, George
  • I bought my 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora about a year ago. I recently sold it and now I am stuck with the stock wheels. They are in great shape and I must get these things out of my barn!
    Name YOUR price!
    Please email me and let me know if you are interested.
  • georgex5georgex5 Posts: 4
    My Aurora says it is low on coolant. I can turn the coolant cap about a quarter turn and then it seems to grab or bind. Is it okay to force it open from there, or is there some trick?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Press down on it as you turn.
  • ahotrodahotrod Posts: 1
    My parents have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with an odometer that apparently reads in kilometers, while the speedometer reads in mph. Is there a way to change the odometer to read in miles rather than km? My dad says he's looked through the manual and can find no information on this. Someone suggested that perhaps the car had been manufactured for Canada delivery (distance in km and speed in mph) and that there is no way to change the odometer reading to miles.

    Any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated.

    Thanks!
  • My Check Engine light goes off and on. I just recently got the car and wondered what options I have. The car seems to be running great and the light does not stay on all the time. Any suggestions would be helpful.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    dude,

    One or more of the national chains (like Autozone, PepBoys, etc.) will read the codes for you free. I have my own code scanner, so I haven't tried this and do not remember which companies. Check around.

    Les
  • georgex5georgex5 Posts: 4
    I got a notice that tire pressure was low. I fixed the tire pressures. But I can't reset the low tire pressure indicator. I press the reset button and the indicator goes off until I turn off the engine. On the next restart, the low tire pressure warning is back. How can I fix it to stay off?
  • dkocchidkocchi Posts: 6
    I have 95 Aurora and the add coolant idiot light came on. I am concerned what type of coolant to use. I know GM uses the red coolant, but the green colored coolant is in the car. I am unaware if this has been replaced since I bought the car used. I also heard you should not mix the two, hence my concern. A little insight on the types of coolant would be great.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    ...came in the '95 Aurora, since that was around the time that GM started using the orange Dexcool stuff. I'm pretty certain '96 and up got Dexcool. If there's green coolant in there, unless you want to pay for a flush-n-fill go ahead and put green in there. On the other hand, if you don't know for sure when the last time it was changed, probably best to have the system flushed.

    Absolutely do NOT mix the two different types of coolant. Find one you like and stick with it. The big knock on Dexcool is that, if it gets mixed with air, or non-Dexcool coolant, it turns into sludge. On all of my vehicles, I typically change out the Dexcool every 2-3 years (reminds me, both my Aurora and GTO are due for changing), around the same time I have the tranny fluid and the brake fluid changed...

    GM switched to the Dexcool for two reasons:

    1) Its purported longer life (they advertise 100k, I wouldn't run it for that long)
    2) After some head gasket issues with early ('93 and up) Northstars they felt the Dexcool would work significantly better/not break down as early, hence the change...

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    That Dexcool is a very confusing issue, other than the sludge issue. As to mixing with air, that is unavoidable since it does not use a recovery bottle, at least on my 96, which has a tank. The fill cap says Dexcool Only.
    I came upon a class action against GM pertaining to Dexcool. Some of the plaintiff and defendant claims seemed absurd, but that may be lawyers looking for something that will stick with a jury.
    In any case, I wouldn't change without a good flushing, and intend to use the newer Zerex that claims it will mix with anything.
    It seems weird that the green would be responsible for head gaskets unless it was worn out and allowing corrosion in the normal seepage paths culminating in failure. That was one of the claims in the suit against Dexcool. So, maybe Dexcool was not the answer to that problem. Certainly any sludge formation on the walls of the cooling system will slow the transfer of heat, possibly causing hot spots and warpage.
    Unfortunately the truth seems to be hard to find, possibly because of false claims and law suits. I have my fingers crossed that Zerex may have overcome the problems and possibly the makers of the orange stuff have as well. Certain engines have more head gasket problems and so it seems to be a design problem. GM engines seem to have more problems, the newer ones since the death of old 307, 305, and other V-8's. The Ford list is shorter and the old 3.0 12 valve seemed near immune to the problem. Totally different on the 24 valve version. I had heard they were having so much trouble they were considering dropping the 24 valve 2 years ago with the slated death of the Taurus. Basically they are the same engine, just a lot more metal cut away in the head to make room for extra valves likely being the problem.
  • When you first start the car and the low tire pressure comes on use your select button and move to the last function then just before the date comes back on arrow down until you see low tire pressure and reset it there
  • My 2001 Aurora V6 has the check engine light on indicating the fault above. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem? I did reset the fuses in the engine compartment and the light went off for 3 months. The check engine light is again on with the same fault code. Any suggestions are appreciated
  • Hi There,

    Still have your Aurora Wheels?

    Thanks,
    Pops_7
  • I took off my pulley that the belt goes around (Idle Pulley) and lost the bolt that i need to put the pulley itself back on could ANYBODY PLEASE SEND A PHOTO OR SIZE AND TYPE OF BOLT that I NEED in order to put my pulley back on. THANX s_johnney@yahoo.com
  • Can someone help me figure out how to change the idler pulley. What do I have to take off to get to it.
  • Been there done that. It is a job.
    First, plan on changing both pulleys, the idler and the tensioner pulley. Check your tensioner and make sure it is ok or replace it as an assembly. That was an expensive GM part at the time I did it, not available locally either.
    Beware of after-market parts. The ones I found were a stamped steel pulley and most had a terrible seal on the bearing. Little wonder they only offered 30 day warranty and this is a job you don't want to do a second time. I ended up using NAPA pulleys with one year warranty.
    Make sure the pulley runs true and I also had to modify one of the pulleys. Because the stamped steel is wider than the original plastic, it can present a problem of clearance if you ever have to change the belt. Since the pulley is just pressed onto the bearing, I was able to drive it on the bearing race enough to allow the needed clearance, yet allow the belt to make full contact. Important! Do not make contact with the bearing any place other than the race! That is the outer steel part of the bearing. I might have used an old bearing race to contact the new one. It will move with light hits of a hammer and I placed wood to soften blows and not dent new pulley.
    At this point, you may decide to go with GM original.

    The JOB! Disconnect Battery! To get at the pulleys, you have to remove the front motor mount. Also one of the bolts you need to remove may be extra long according to what I read of another doing the job. He decided there were far more threads on it than needed. He cut it off and replaced with a shorter one because he could not get clearance to remove. I forget which one it was, but decided if I needed to I would drill a hole through the sheet metal of body if necessary to R&R it. I did not have the problem.

    To remove that motor mount, you have to support the engine with a jack. I used a large piece of two by long enough to contact the oil pan side to side. (Make sure it won't crack with the grain or you will likely have an oil pan disaster. You might want to sandwich it with thick plywood or something.)
    In order to jack it enough, you have to remove the coil pack assembly from its mounting. I just moved mine forward since the plug wires were long enough.
    Also since you have to slide the engine assembly over, you have to remove a large bolt about six inches long holding the front transmission mount to the frame.
    Beware of exhaust pipe limitations. It has a flex in it but still has a limit to how far you can move. I did not have to drop my pipe.

    That should cover the major part of it. You will still have to loosen or remove stuff to get the job done, such as washer resovoir and alternator.
    I would recommend locating torque specs for bolts and use a torque wrench. You don't want any stress problems with that aluminum block engine.
    You will save yourself a lot of money in labor. Good Luck.
    Make sure you can R&R the belt without having to tear it apart again. That is, you have needed clearance between pulley and block, the thickness of the belt.
    I think I got the torque values for All Data.
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