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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I had the TSB PCM reprogramming done this afternoon on my P5. The tech claims he did a search on it this morning, but found nothing. I looked it up on autopedia and took the printout with me to the dealer. They agreed to perform the PCM reprogram with no hesitation. I will check tomorrow morning to see if the problem is gone. My new sway bar bushings will not be in until the 24th, so we will be making another trip back to the dealer then.

    Ted
  • I have an '03 Protege5 with the Sport AT 4-speed automatic transmission and I'm not getting the gas mileage I feel I should. The car was rated 25 city and 30 highway. I usually end up getting around 22-23mpg with a combination of city and highway driving. I've gotten as low as 18.83 on all city driving and the best I've gotten in normal (see below) highway driving is 29.86. The traffic on the interstates here usually runs around 80mph and on highways between 60 and 75 and those are comfortable speeds for me. However, interstate/h'way driving is probably only about 15-20% of my driving. I participated in an automobile tour this weekend of some homes in the country and drove 175 miles (with some of those last miles being city driving) and got 29.61 mpg. Our speeds averaged about 45 mph though - slower than I care to go in normal highway driving. I have kept track of my mileage since the odometer was at 1811. So far, I have traveled a total of 6742.1 miles (total miles studied: 4931.1); used 213.703 gallons of regular gas for an overall average mpg of 23.07. I've noted a decline lately too. My first 13 tanks averaged 23.005 mpg and my last 9 have averaged 20.17 mpg.

    The dealership doesn't believe me in spite of my record-keeping. Does anyone out there think this is correct for this small,underpowered car (which, incidentally, I bought for its advertised high gas mileage and its good looks)? Or, are my expectations too high?

    Alacat
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    My wife's P5 started at around 26mpg in mostly stop-n-go freeway travel. After about 1800 miles, its average mpg has gone up to a bit over 29mpg.

    It should go up a little after the break-in period.

    Also, both my wife's car and mine (a Protege sedan) drop in fuel economy over the winter due to many factors (less energy content in "winter" fuel, cold starts, cold oil, cold transmission fluid) by about 2mpg (my sedan gets about 29mpg in mostly local driving, but has been getting about 27mpg lately).

    We (more like I, since I take care of that in my wife's car too) run our tires at 34psi (cold) and use synthetic motor oil. I also check to be sure our air filters are fairly clean (I check at every oil change, instead of waiting for the interval specified in the manual, since it's easy enough). After a full oil, filter and air filter change, I usually detect a bump-up in mpg (usually between 1-2mpg).

    You might want to be sure your parking brakes aren't dragging. Some have stuck, leading to low mpg and premature wear of the rear brake pads.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I drive the hell out of my P5, and rarely get less than 26 mpg. On one trip over the holidays, I got 32 mpg while averaging 80 mph with the roof top cargo box! I would definitely have the dealer check your parking brake.

    Ted
  • jgetzjgetz Posts: 4
    Is anyone experiencing problems with their clutch clicking when pushing it in? I have a 2002 P5 and about a year or so ago, the clutch started to click. I've taken it to two different dealers, the first couldn't replicate the problem and the second replaced a worn clip, but the problem persists. My warranty is almost up, so I'm running out of time. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • I don't have this pblm with mine (2003), but check out post 322# on this forum to see if it applies. Or check this tsb to see if this might be it.....

    MT000003848 - CLUTCH CHATTER DURING COLD TAKEOFF

    Some vehicles may exhibit a clutch chatter or judder when releasing clutch during cold conditions. This may be caused by the flywheel and clutch cover surface materials creating a chatter or judder during clutch engagement.

    The flywheel and clutch cover has been revised to correct this concern.
    1. Verify customer concern.
    2. Remove the manual transmission according to the following Workshop Manual procedure: * 5 Speed: MANUAL TRANSMISSION REMOVAL/INSTALLATION M25M-R (section 05-15A-3).
    3. Remove clutch disc, clutch cover and flywheel according to the Workshop Manual procedure CLUTCH UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION (section 05-10).
    4. Install new clutch disc, clutch cover and flywheel according to the Workshop Manual procedure CLUTCH UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION (section 05-10).
    5. Reinstall the manual transmission according to the following Workshop Manual procedure: * 5 Speed: MANUAL TRANSMISSION REMOVAL/INSTALLATION M25M-R (section 05-15A-3).
    6. Verify repair.
    Part(s)Information: Part Number Description Qty Notes FP01-16-410A-9U Clutch Cover 1 1.8L FS05-16-410A Clutch Cover 1 2.0L FP49-11-500A Flywheel 1 1.8L FS01-11-500A Flywheel 1 2.0L B633-16-460A-9U Clutch Disc 1 1.8L FS06-16-460 Clutch Disc 1 2.0L Note: Make sure the dealer contacts DAG to specify order the above parts.
  • jgetzjgetz Posts: 4
    Autohound1, thanks...neither of those describe my problem exactly, but they're close. I'll run them past the dealer and see what they say. Thanks again, Jeff
  • i have my first complaint of my otherwise perfect p5: the aluminum has completely rubbed off of one small spot. my wife always leaves a bottle of lotion underneath the parking brake and today while vacuuming the car i noticed that the bottle has rubbed a three finger sized section completely free of the metal paint. does any one have any solution to this? can it be fixed under warranty? no big deal, but i'd like to have it fixed if i could.

    Ant
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,895
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  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    The clutch chatter (actually it slips for the first few engagements on cold, damp mornings) has been a "feature" of my 2000 Protege ES since I bought it in May 2000. I inquired about it way back then and was told it was an "idiosyncracy" of the clutch design, and I had no reason to disbelieve this explanation since my 1992 LX, which I bought new in September 1992, did it for all 83,000 miles I owned the car. After a few takeoffs on damp mornings it would disappear, and it never got any worse -- or better. Likewise, my 2000 has done it since day one, and I now have 72,000 miles on the car. Other than this "quirk" I have had zero problems with the car.

    Well, the reason for this post is, after hearing about this TSB for several months, I finally contacted my dealership's service manager last week. Due partly to my diligence, but probably mostly to the fact that I've been a customer of this dealership for 12 years and bought five new cars from them and have a bit of a "preferred customer" status, they cut me a deal.

    Remember that a clutch is considered a "wear item" and to that effect, it's only covered for 12 months/12,000 miles on the Protege. Well, after 72,000 miles, my service manager cut me a bit of a deal, shall we say: I can have this upgrade performed for the shop's internal labor cost of $303, and Mazda will eat the $400 parts cost. Since I plan to keep this very reliable car until it literally falls apart, I think the $303 cost of bringing the clutch up-to-date (along with getting an entirely new clutch system at 72,000 miles) ought to go a big step toward the car's future reliability.

    Over the weekend I received the card announcing that the parts have arrived, and I'll probably take the car in next week for this all-day job.

    Any of you who plan to keep the car for an extended period of time might consider taking your service manager to task on this. While I have had zero clutch problems over four years, and the "chatter" hasn't gotten any worse, this seems to be a great way to get a new clutch a little early -- but for substantially less than you'll pay when it really does come clutch-replacement time.

    I'll try to remember to let you guys know how the new clutch assembly works out. If you haven't heard anything from me in a few weeks, you might want to go try the Mazda Protege discussion where I normally hang out -- or the Mazda Protege Problems & Solutions discussion (under Maintenance & Repair) where this topic has been discussed ad nauseum in recent weeks.

    Zoom Zoom,

    Meade
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    I'll keep you guys informed if you're interested.

    Meade
  • reitrofreitrof Posts: 122
    Yes please Meade.

    Thanks
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    I feel for my little guy -- all this invasive surgery simply for easier clutch engagements on cold, wet mornings. How selfish I am.

    Poor Zoomster. My heart aches. Think I'll have a cry.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Just got a call from Mike at Whitten Mazda. My 73,000-mile-old clutch and flywheel looked ...

    ...

    "GREAT." "JUST FINE." "LOTS OF WEAR LEFT."

    I hope there's a LOT of improvement with this new one!!!

    Meade
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Car's ready; was finished at 2:15 p.m. Total cost for new clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and bearing, labor only:

    $302.50

    I'll have a report on the important part -- how the car drives -- tomorrow morning.

    Parts cost, from what I understand, was around $400. So figure $700 for a new clutch from Mazda, guys. (If you ever need one, that is -- read my previous post.) I'll have the receipt and some exact information tomorrow.

    Meade
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    OK friends, here's what was replaced on Zoomster (my 2000 Protege ES, 73,000-and-some-odd miles) yesterday. Got my receipt right here in front of me:

    FP01-16-410-9U, "Clutch cvr"
    FP49-11-500A, "Wheel, Fly"
    B633-16-460A-9U, "Clutch Dis"
    FP01-16-510, "Collar, Clu"

    All of the above items were charged to "Warranty."

    Here's what the service writer wrote on my order:

    "Customer states chatter when letting clutch out, install S/O/P. Remove transmission and replace clutch assembly and fly wheel H0101XDX.

    "Mazda goodwill to pay for parts. Customer to pay labor at $55.00 per hour at 5.5 labor hours."

    And that's just what I did. 5.5 x $55.00 = $302.50. (By the way, my dealership's normal labor rate is $72.95 an hour.)

    Now, the important part.

    Of course, it was sunny and 70 when I picked the car up, and on the way home the car responded pretty much like it always did. If anything I noticed that engagements were a little smoother -- hard to describe. The car just felt smoother to drive.

    The real difference came this morning. The day dawned sunny but cold -- 34 degrees at my house -- and dew was all over everything. It was damp! Yay, perfect clutch-chatter conditions!

    I was a little nervous as I backed out of the driveway, wondering if the damned car was going to chatter anyway and I would have wasted 300 bucks. Well, I backed out into the street, put the car in first, let out the clutch, and ...

    ...

    Smooooooooooooooth baby!!! No chatter at all. Every subsequent engagement was spot-on, textbook quality.

    And this morning I had a little more time (and distance) to make some observations. Call me nuts, but I would swear the car runs more smoothly now. Maybe the clutch wasn't being held properly against the flywheel before? Maybe the tension wasn't enough on the old one when engaged and that's what caused the chatter? And therefore, with the new clutch plate held more tightly against the flywheel now, there isn't a possible slight amount of slippage or wandering on the flywheel that there may have been before? Whatever the case, it's buttah now, baby. I'm happy. The car's never felt like this before.

    Zoomster and I are now looking toward that big 100K in the sky ... and we shall go on farther, my friends, in search of roads uncharted and out-of-the-way twisties!

    Meade
  • reitrofreitrof Posts: 122
    Hi Meade,

    Thanks for the update. I might try and see if my dealer will do the same. I am like you, only see the problem on cold mornings, not after a couple of miles.
  • torwadeotorwadeo Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 Mazda Protege with a manual transmission. There are 71K miles on the car.

    When I fist start driving my car the gear box feels normal and I can shift into gears smoothly.

    After a few miles or so the gears get tight and it makes a squaking sound when I shift into gear.

    Also after driving for a long time ( 3 hours) the car has trouble idling. It feels like its going to stall.

    Any help you could give me would be appreciated.

    Love the car.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Well, I can't account for your shifter problem, although it sounds like the gasketing inside your shifter may be getting worn out. The shifter on my 2000 Protege ES 5-speed (73,000 miles) makes a little bit of a rubbery noise when I shift, but it's far from objectionable -- barely noticeable unless it's dead silent in the car.

    As for the idle problem -- I think I've got your problem solved. Have you ever had your spark plug wires replaced? This is my third Protege over the course of 12 years, and ever since the first one, which started having the same problem at about 35,000 miles, I have learned and become accustomed to replacing my plug wires every 30,000 miles. The design of Mazda's cylinder head takes the wires about six inches down inside the engine to connect to the plugs. This area gets very hot and can also attract moisture, and the ends of the wires do break down over time and can short to the walls of the head. A replacement set runs anywhere from $40 aftermarket to around $75 for the OEM Mazda set from the factory. Replacement takes all of five minutes and is very simple, as long as you replace one wire at a time and pay attention to which wire you're replacing as you go.

    I'll almost bet money that replacing the wires will solve your problem, assuming you've kept up on your recommended maintenance and you've already replaced the plugs themselves.

    Meade
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  • dwryterdwryter Posts: 87
    Some time ago, Mazda issued a few TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) on wind noise coming from the windshield, side windows, and vents, and one TSB on rough idling. I brought my 2002 P5 in for these problems and the dealer no longer had any of the TSBs on his system. He said if I can find them, he'll look into the situations. I'll do a little research to find more info about the TSBs. But meanwhile, I'm curious if anyone else has succeeded in getting either of these issues addressed under warranty and, if so, if any fixes solved the problems.
  • pciskowskipciskowski Posts: 155
    Anyone had this noise? It sounds like it is coming from the area of the spare or jack, but I have removed both and it still happens. It only happens sometimes when going over bumps, not every time.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    Having just gone through this with my '00 sedan, I'm going to put my money on one or more of the stabilizer links needing replacing.
  • pciskowskipciskowski Posts: 155
    How much did it cost?
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    My repair might be different from yours, 'cause I needed both fronts and rears replaced. And these part numbers might be different from what you need, because again, I have a sedan (ES).

    MAZ B26R-34-170 (Link control, 9") qty. = 2 @ 45.11 each

    MAZ 9994-01-000 (nut, flange) qty. = 8 @ 3.30 each

    MAZ BJOE-28-170 (link, control-stab) qty. = 2 @ 41.74 each

    total parts = 200.10

    total labor = 228.00

    total charge = 428.10

    Please note that those parts prices are what my dealer actually charged me...about 25% to 30% above Mazda suggested retail. My dealer also went a little crazy with the labor charges.

    YMMV.
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  • pciskowskipciskowski Posts: 155
    Took it to the dealer today - you were correct. Funny how when I took it in for the same noise under warrarty it was the jack, and now that it is out of warranty it is $300.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    Sorry to hear it cost you so much; on the other hand, you made out better than I did. :)

    How many did they replace?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Or extended warranty?

    Meade
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