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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • twistylocstwistylocs Posts: 20
    I'm in the market for a new car, and thought that I would end up with a new Hyundai Elantra. Instead, my husband wants us to take a look at a used Protege 5, something I'd never considered.

    While doing some research on availability in the Vancouver area, I came up with not one, but four 2003 Yellow P5 (auto transmission) for sale. Was there something particularly troubling about the yellow 2003 P5s that I should know about? It just seems odd that there are so many of this one color/model available in my area. :confuse:

    Thanks in advance for any insight!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    While doing some research on availability in the Vancouver area, I came up with not one, but four 2003 Yellow P5 (auto transmission) for sale. Was there something particularly troubling about the yellow 2003 P5s that I should know about? It just seems odd that there are so many of this one color/model available in my area.

    I certainly hope not, mine is a 2002 yellow P5. The color was quite popular at the time and several other brands seemed to have caught on; maybe that ends up decreasing its wow factor. My car has been flawless including its paint job.

    The Hyundai Elantra is an excellent contender; personally that was my runner up after the Pro. Can I suggest you test drive both and then compare them by overall value? Either way you'll win. :)
  • twistylocstwistylocs Posts: 20
    Thanks, autonomous. We've driven (and driven) the Elantra GT and honestly, it's my top contender - you can't beat 0% financing. I'm keeping an open mind, however.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    We've driven (and driven) the Elantra GT and honestly, it's my top contender - you can't beat 0% financing. I'm keeping an open mind, however.

    You're right, Hyundai makes great offers. Mazda has similar offers for some of its new products; my Pro5 came with 1.9% for 3 years; I believe the current Mazda3 has excellent short term (24 month) rates. The other plus of a new car, and especially of Hyundai, is the warranty. If you love the car and intend to keep it for several years having low payments and a healthy warranty period is icing on the cake. The downside of a new car is the larger tax bill, the freight and PDI charges. The downside of a used car is you inherit all the bad behaviour of the previous owner with a fraction of the warranty if any.

    How do you find the ride quality of the Hyundai? Is it right or too soft or too stiff? My wife does not appreciate the Pro5 stiff suspension, I personally love it.

    In the April 2005 issue of Consumer Reports (aka the annual auto issue), the Hyundai Elantra was rated 7th in the "Small cars with automatic transmissions" group. The top 10 were: Ford Focus ZX4 SES; Mazda3i ; Toyota Prius ; Honda Civic hybrid ; Toyota Corolla LE ; Honda Civic EX ; Hyundai Elantra GT ; Kia Spectra EX ; Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS; Nissan Sentra 1.8S. Have you compared the Mazda 3i and Hyundai?

    Best of luck :)
  • twistylocstwistylocs Posts: 20
    We have compared the Mazda 3 and the Elantra, and if it weren't for the fact that there's an almost $6,000 price difference between the 3 Sport (GT Trim) and the Elantra GT, we'd definitely buy the Mazda 3. The same can be said for the Subaru Impreza Wagon - impressive car, but out of our price range. Unfortunately we can't afford a short term financing deal, and we're not interested in leasing a vehicle.

    As for the ride quality of the Elantra GT, I found it a bit mushy and underpowered compared to the Mazda 3. Don't get me wrong - it's a perfectly serviceable car and I know it has its fans. But I liked the stiffer suspension of the 3. I've heard that adding a sway bar from the Hyundai Tiburon to the rear of the Elantra improves the ride quality.

    Tonight we're test driving a 2003 P5, Black, loaded (including leather). All of the points you raised regarding warranty are definitely on our minds as we make this decision.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Tonight we're test driving a 2003 P5, Black, loaded (including leather). All of the points you raised regarding warranty are definitely on our minds as we make this decision.

    The suspense builds!

    Here are a few things to consider while you're test driving:
    - horsepower (does the vehicle have enough pick up and passing ability?)
    - viisibility out the rear window (are you comfortable with the view?)
    - tires (are they the original Dunlops or have they been upgraded?; the Dunlops are great but do not last long, they may last up to 50K km, if you're easy on them)
    - interior (is it too dark?, is the leather substantial/good quality?)

    I raise the above points because of comments I have read on these boards. Personally, I have no problems in any of these categories, in fact I find the Pro5 has great pickup, good visibility (making it really wonderful to park!), sporty tires (with great cornering ability), and a stylish interior (since leather is not my preference, the cloth seats are just right).

    BTW: The Mazda 3 Sport GS is at least $1200 cheaper than the GT and still exceptional.

    Have a great drive and let us know what you both think! :)
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    if it weren't for the fact that there's an almost $6,000 price difference between the 3 Sport (GT Trim) and the Elantra GT, we'd definitely buy the Mazda 3.

    According to MSN Auto the Mazda3 can be cheaper or pricier than the Elantra for some very good reasons.

    First of all, the Elantra GT comes loaded with a 138 hp engine. Your comments about an underpowered ride compared to the Mazda 3 is well taken since the Mazda 3 Sport comes with a much heftier 160 hp engine. If instead we used the Mazda 3 i (non-sport) version it would be closer as it has a 148 hp engine. These numbers go a long way to explain the pricing.

    C$19,800 Mazda3 GS i (non sport) + automatic + AC + 148 hp
    C$20,500 Elantra GT - automatic (AC included) + 138 hp
    C$22,300 Mazda3 GS Sport + automatic + AC + 160 hp

    As you can see the price differential is not that great between the first two. The Mazda3 Sport costs an additional C$2K because it is more substantial. These are of course MSRP and not real prices so depending on negotiations the gap may be larger or not. I think each of these qualify as good choices depending on what you want. Finally, the 2003 Protege5 with its 130 hp engine is much cheaper but you already know that.
  • twistylocstwistylocs Posts: 20
    I don't want to turn this into a Mazda 3 vs. Elantra discussion :D , but I really appreciate the numbers you've posted. The issue is that the Mazda 3 doesn't come with nearly as many options as the Elantra; to get a similarly equipped 3 Sport, we'd have to pay about $25,700 (that's the price we were quoted at Signature Mazda in Vancouver). While the 3 sedan is fantastic, we love the utility of a hatchback.

    The Black Protege 5 was sold earlier Tuesday afternoon before we got there, but we had an opportunity to drive a silver P5. The car handled beautifully, but there was a strange moldy smell in the car - very slight, and not noticeable when the ventilation was turned on. The dealer told us that this model had been in an accident, and though you couldn't tell, just knowing that bit of information turned us off that particular car. We're going to contact the dealer to tell him that we're interested in buying a P5 and to let us know if he gets any others.
  • mine has also stalled 2 times since i bought it. both times while idling in traffic. i rushed to the nearest mazda repair store today because oil was leaking from my engine. i was told i had a broken gasket. i had had my oil changed there 1 month prior..hummm. anyway, while there i told them about the stalling and they said there was a "TSB" about it, and they said they fixed it. we shall see!.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Hopefully everything works out with your P5!

    Could you provide some more details for the benefit of others?
    What year? 2002? 2003?
    Manual or automatic transmission?
    Any early warning signs to watch out for apart from the leaky oil?
    Number of the TSB?
    It sounds like this was done without charge, is that right?
    Do you want to mention the dealership?

    Thanks mz_demeenor!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    the Mazda 3 doesn't come with nearly as many options as the Elantra; to get a similarly equipped 3 Sport, we'd have to pay about $25,700 (that's the price we were quoted at Signature Mazda in Vancouver).

    Wow, that's steep! Are you going gung ho with the leather seating, moonroof, etc. at that price? Do you really want all those things or is it done for comparison? Options can be a pain; often you can't get exactly what you want because you have to take A to get B. I would not opt for leather, moonroof, 17" alloys, antitheft because I don't value them. Moreover, when comparing, those models which have unwanted options end up being discounted. So even if a model offers more, if it's not something I want, I discount the unwanted option. The Mazda 3 Sport GT comes with 6 not 4 speakers which could be important; I wonder if its worth the additional C$1200 upgrade cost or could I live with only 4 or whether I should just add 2 speakers on my own. Some of the "all inclusive" packages leave me feeling as if I need to drive in a full tuxedo. Sorry to rattle on!

    Let us know how you like the silver bullet!
  • I currently own a 2002 Mazda mp5, 5 speed, with every option. I drive a lot, for example the odometer just turned over to 115,000 miles. And I bought the car with 6 miles, brand new from Davis Moore in Wichita KS, 3 years ago. The only problem ive had is the Shifting fork broke in the transmission, But don’t worry I race mine, and the problem was my entire fault, not the cars. I have done many after market mods, none ever causing a problem. This car has been rally raced, jumped, zoomed around corners at 100+mph. And never once has it ever developed a problem. But I also change its oil every 2500 miles, and its cold air intake filter every 8,000 miles only becasue, "if you abuse it u need to baby it". My mp5 has also, and still has a slight dip in the rpms and low idel or stoping, its never died, and it always starts. I just bought a Subaru WRX Sti 05, but I will not sell my mp5, they only made them for 2 years, and the MP5 and MP3 have nothing to do with Ford. Remember Ford buys Madas Engines. Mazdas buy NOTHING from Ford. ;) I still drive my mazda, even with my new Subaru, the 300hp Sti is A LOT faster But, It kills your back , and your neck!!! Also, ive orderd a 250hp+ turbo for my mp5. Which means many more mods will take place. Moral of this Story is, Love your car and it will Love you Back! Ohhhh… and remember washing your engine keeps it clean, and a clean engine runs cooler, and more efficiently, also making it easier to find a leak. (Which probably won’t happen). But REMEMBER leave the car running, when washing the engine so it can cope with the temp change, and avoid directly spraying electronics!

    And i do ALL my own work on my car, So i know its geting done right! Dealerships have a creapy vibe, once you get your car NEVER go back LOL

    Peace :)
  • twistylocstwistylocs Posts: 20
    Are you going gung ho with the leather seating, moonroof, etc. at that price? Do you really want all those things or is it done for comparison?

    A little bit of both. Leather's not an option on the Elantra, so we ruled it out. Cruise control is important to the hubby, but I'm indifferent. I really want a sunroof, but he could care less. So I had the salesperson run the numbers - buying the options individually versus buying them as part of a package, and $25,700 was what he came up with.

    The Silver Bullet was a nice car, but the car had been in an accident and had a funny smell, so we ruled it out. I think that we've decided to go with the Elantra.

    Autonomous, I really appreciate all of your feedback - I can't tell you how helpful you've been.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    So I had the salesperson run the numbers - buying the options individually versus buying them as part of a package, and $25,700 was what he came up with.

    Why trust a salesman, who's going to want to get every nickel and dime from you that he can? Go to Mazda's website and "build" your car. It will give you a price and then let you know what dealers have the car the way you want it!

    Meade
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    The Silver Bullet was a nice car, but the car had been in an accident and had a funny smell, so we ruled it out. I think that we've decided to go with the Elantra.

    Interesting. Didn't your last test drive involve a black P5 in an accident and have a funny smell. Two cars, two accidents, two smelly interiors, talk about double whammy turn-off.

    The Elantra is a great car which you're sure to love, plus you'll be getting it at a great price and with an astounding warranty. The only thing left is planning the ultimate trip like cruising the Fraser Valley or Vancouver Island. Best wishes!
  • twistylocstwistylocs Posts: 20
    No, we went to see the black P5 but it had been sold earlier that day. That's when we drove the silver one I mentioned in the earlier post. Strangely enough, my husband got a call from the dealer saying that the black one was available again because the buyer's financing fell through.

    I think we'll go look at the car just for curiosity's sake, but provided that our own financing comes through, we're going with the Elantra. :)
  • yamena17yamena17 Posts: 1
    :confuse: Hey there!

    I have a 2002 MP5 (80 000km) and recently I've noticed this high pitched squeaking sound coming from the rear passenger tire. After looking at the rear brakes, I noticed that there has been alot of wear since the previous time they were looked at (which was not long ago at all). So I was wondering if anyone has had this problem (either sticky calibers or parking brake) and what was the solution(s). Like to try to fix the problem on my own.

    Look forward to any suggestions!!!

    Thanks!
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Unfortunately the solution is to replace the caliper. It's one of the few known problems with the P5. I had the shop try and repair and lubricate the one that was sticking on my car, but it has started sticking again.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    solution is to replace the caliper ... had the shop try and repair and lubricate the one that was sticking on my car, but it has started sticking again.

    Did you actually replace your calipers or your brake pads, Terry? At what point (mileage) did that happen? My service advisor warned me about sticky calipers on my 2002 P5 after seeing increased brake wear on the rear compared to the front brakes (the front brakes are supposed to be doing most of the stopping). He suggested that I have them lubricated which I had done last fall. No problem since.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Well, it went down like this; I had just replaced the front pads myself with ceramic pads because they were due (around 70,000 miles on the car at the time). Checking out the rear pads, I found the outside pad of the driver's side was almost gone. Knowing of the sticky rear caliper issue on other P5s, I brought it in to have the shop see if they could fix it. Well, they ended up breaking the good one on the passenger side and ordered a rebuild kit for that caliper to fix it. The one that was sticking, they took apart and I assume lubed it up and put it back together. That one has since started dragging again so I will have them either rebuild or replace that one now.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    It's been a week and no scoop on the Elantra or Black P5. Any news?
    ... we'll go look at the car (black P5) just for curiosity's sake, but provided that our own financing comes through, we're going with the Elantra.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    ... rear pads, I found the outside pad of the driver's side was almost gone. Knowing of the sticky rear caliper ... brought it in ... the shop ... ended up breaking the good one on the passenger side and ordered a rebuild kit ... The one that was sticking, they took apart and I assume lubed it up ... has since started dragging again so I will have them either rebuild or replace that one now.

    Was the work done by a dealership or an independent? When the passenger side caliper was broken by the shop, did they pay for the replacement? Was it OEM? Are the ceramic pads worth the money in terms of long term durability?

    Any tips on a fast and smooth ride while avoiding the use of brakes? If only those lights were synchoronized ... ;)
  • 02pro502pro5 Posts: 5
    Hey guys,

    I have a 2002 P5, and lately I've been having trouble with my horn. It seems to drop in tone when honking, but doesn't do it all the time... sometimes it sounds fine. The weird thing is that I already had the horn replaced for the same problem last year, and it worked fine for about 6 months. I find it hard to believe that two faulty horns have been installed in my car, and am thinking that there's a problem in the wiring to the horn (maybe a grounding problem?).

    If anyone has any ideas, I'd greatly appreciate the help.
    Thanks
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    The weird thing is that I already had the horn replaced for the same problem last year, and it worked fine for about 6 months.

    Mazda parts carry a 12 month/12,000-mile warranty.

    Meade
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    It was a Mazda dealer, but they are located in a small town near to where I work. It was a small enough dealership that they had never worked on the rear brakes of a P5 before (which is why they screwed up and broke the one caliper). As for who paid for the rebuild, they sold it to me at wholesale and didn't charge for labor. It was an OEM kit.

    I'm not sure if ceramic pads are worth the money (never used them before). When I replaced the front pads, that was all that NAPA had in stock. One good thing about them is there is much less dusting on the front wheels which makes them stay clean longer and clean much easier.
  • booty84booty84 Posts: 1
    i am cluless on cars but my fog lights (factory)on my 2002 p5 some times work but most of the time don't and it's not the lights itself or the switch it's probly a loos wire but where are the wire connections and i don't wanna take apart the dash anyone help?
  • moonman8moonman8 Posts: 1
    This is my first posting and I bought my 2003 Protege5 about 3 weeks ago with 48,000 miles on it. I have read about the clutch shudder during cold launches but this is not what I wish to talk about here. Even when the engine/clutch is WARM, when I let the clutch out going from 1st to 2nd gear, I hear a rattle. The car doesn't shudder or leap, it is a metallic rattle when the clutch engages (at the top of the clutch, just before fully letting it out). Does anyone have this problem or know what could cause it? I'm not 100% sure that it is actually the clutch, but I believe it is related. Any suggestions or things to check to further isolate the problem? Thanks.
  • I have a 2002 Protege5 with about 42K on it. Recently I begin to have
    some problems with the sporty shift. My car has that zig-zag automatic
    shift and also has the faked manual shift mode.

    Now I have problem when I try to shift the stick out of P into R or D, or when
    I try to shift the stick from D to R (basically move the stick around corners of
    the zig-zag shifting track). Not wanting to use brute force, I usually
    wait a few moments, then will be able to move the stick pass those corners,
    but it's getting worse and I am worrying about transmission problems.

    I am going to let the dealership look at it tomorrow but I wonder whether anybody
    driving this car have similiar problem?
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    You could try re-seating the fuse in the fuse block first. The fuse block is next to your left leg. If they both don't work on occasion, it probably is not the connections to the lamps themselves, and without a wire diagram, it might be hard to track down the bad connection between the lamps and switch. In any case, if they don't work once and awhile, you're not missing much, because as aimed from the factory on the 2002 P5, they are pretty much useless anyway.
  • 02pro502pro5 Posts: 5
    go to http://protege5.ugly.net
    The site has the entire factory workshop manual for the protege/protege5 in pdf.
    Regarding your fog light problem... I'm thinking maybe bad connection in the switch... go to section 09-18 on the website and it tells you how to inspect the switch itself
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